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Why did you dump Sathorn district to live in the old town?
I’ve always wished I was born 100 years ago. It’s a beautiful era. That’s why I always love to travel around to nostalgic towns like Luang Prabang in Laos, Bagan in Myanmar and Hoi An in Vietnam, where I got married to my wife. We both love old towns. When I started building The Siam Hotel in Dusit district, I realized that our family owned an old building in the old town, too. It’s right in front of Rommaneenat Park. It used to be the office of my family business but was abandoned and became derelict. No one had lived there for more than 60 years.
How has your family adjusted to the area?
It’s really easy. Apart from the inconvenience of renovating the house while we’re living here, we don’t have anything to complain about. If you ask my kids [six and four years old], who were used to living in a condo in Sathorn, they’ll say they never want to move anywhere else. Though my house sits right on the main street [Mahachai Road], I’m so comfortable. If people look up to my window on the second floor, they might see me walking around in my underwear!
Is it convenient?
I’m lucky that my workplace, The Siam, is close to my house and also close to my kid’s school. So we can be at both places within 20-30 minutes in normal traffic. But it’s a bit tricky to get into the city. I don’t really go to the city center unless I have work there. I haven’t been to Thonglor in ages.
What is the great charm of the area?
This area was once the Sukhumvit of Bangkok. For someone like me, who used to live in New York, it’s the Bangkok version of Soho. It’s bustling during the day but in the evenings, it’s really peaceful—not only my house, the whole district. I love the fact that when I walk down the street, I see people sitting in front of their houses chatting to each other. I often have a chat with my neighbors. It builds trust in the community, seeing the faces of the people around you. That’s what we need in Bangkok. We’ve lost this.
How do you feel about the arrival of the MRT?
I think it will benefit everyone. It will save people time—time we should spend on other things we love, like family. I’m lucky now that this area doesn’t have too much traffic, though.
What are your favorite places around the area?
There are many. For eating, Seven Spoons and Brown Sugar are my favorites. At Seven Spoons, I love their tapas appetizers, which are both good and cheap. I also enjoy strolling around Saphanlek where there are toys and games for sale. I always stop to sip coffee at SOHO Coffee—good coffee for just B35. But my favorite place in the area is Klong Thom Market. I walk around there every weekend looking for antiques and old stuff to add to my collection.
What’s so charming about your neighborhood?
Things don’t change much around here. The bars on Phra Arthit might change but my neighbors are mostly the same people I’ve been saying hello to since I was a kid. It’s not as hectic as along Sukhumvit. You can also enjoy the arts very easily, here: from temples to museums, classical Thai music and even the cute old lifestyle of people on my soi. I’m really lucky living here.
What’s made you appreciate art so much?
I was raised in a family of artists. My great grandfather was one of the first people who took care of the Fine Arts Department. There have been Thai dancers, musicians and writers in this house. Basically, this neighborhood has been my place of learning.
You had an office life before; was it hard commuting into the center of town?
The hardest part of living here might be getting around. I used to work in Silom and my record for being on time wasn’t too pretty. Public transport is not punctual, though public boats are your safest bet. But even when I had an office life, the good outweighed the bad by far. Going to the park—watching old people exercising, foreigners juggling, smelling the river [which doesn't stink here] and listening to the waves lap the bank. The parks are essential. It’s where locals meet and interact.
Do you miss being in the city?
Only when I want to see a movie. One thing you really don’t have in the old town is luxury—but not everyone needs it. For me, I have to trek a bit further for a slice of cheesecake as the nearest mall, Tang Hua Seng, offers only khao mak [fermented rice].
What are your favorite things to do in the old town?
I recommend going to the National Museum. Not so many Thais visit the place. It’s not trendy but it’s got a very charming vibe with its big lotus pond. It’s very quiet there. Taking a boat on a canal tour is also one of my favorite things to do with my dad. Thais don’t know much about it, but it’s amazing.
Favorite eating spots?
Khao Gaeng Raan Pen on Rambuttri Road and Aa Aisa’s khao mok nuea [beef with biryani rice] and guay tiew gaeng [noodles in curry]. For more proper places, I usually go to Escapade Burgers & Shakes for their burgers or Seven Spoons. The food is so delicious there and you’ve got some good bars, great jazz and top coffee just around the corner.
What’s behind the sense of community here?
I think it has been built from the beginning. During certain festivals, we do some activities together, like making merit. During the film festival, people even open up their homes for screenings. It’s like we’ve preserved the culture of a village. People have respect for each other. If someone wants to change their place into a guesthouse, they would come tell us directly. I think that’s pretty rare. I think it’s because there are hardly any new faces moving in. In the city, people might just move in for the short-term, so they don’t have that sense of attachment. Here, we know there’s a story we all share and we’re proud of it.
What are your neighbors like?
If you grew up here, you can choose to be anything you want. You can be yourself. This freedom allows for lots of different characters and personalities.
Have you ever thought about moving elsewhere?
We were once offered lots of money for our place. But there’s nowhere we could get a house like this. The biggest tree in our house, my dad planted it when he was a kid and it’s grown up with him. I've planted one myself, too.
BK ASKS
What do you like most about your neighborhood?
Michael Biedassek
co-founder of Bangkokvanguards,
lives near Dinsor
I like that we have building regulations in the area, which mean that there’s no skyscrapers and you find old buildings dating back to the beginning of the 20th century. Then there is the village atmosphere, with certain people being known for specializing in specific crafts such as the production of utensils or Buddhist sculptures. It’s a rich community that keeps growing organically.
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Chanod Tangsin
28, business owner, lives in Pom Prap Sattru Phai
Nothing is new here and that‘s what’s charming about it. Also, no place is isolated. Everything is close by so it’s easy for me to wander around to places like Tha Prachan, Tha Tien and Klong Thom. There is a drawback to living here, though, which is the lack of parking spaces if you need to drive.
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Sidtrun Santichaikul
28, photographer, lives in Tha Tien
Even though I have had to move a bit further down the road due to the construction of a community mall, what makes the place home
is the familiar backstory and faces. The buildings may age but the sense of community remains unique as Tha Tien was the first shophouse community built in Bangkok. We all know each other and our community is similar to what you might find in the countryside.
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VipaVi VienRavi
33, brand consultant, lives in Banglamphu
The vibe in old town is very unique. You've got a beautiful road like Ratchadamnoen with one side being the old European-style buildings and the other side the temples. The area mixes hip Bangkok with the distinctive traditional culture. I'm right also in the middle of every big festival, from New Year to Songkran and it's such fun.
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What do you like about your neighborhood?
Life is very diverse in the old town. I love walking down the street because you know you are always going to see different people, from prostitutes in dodgy dark corners to hi-sos in those hotels by the river. Many people bike but I don’t. You see more of what’s going on around you when you walk. I can stop at any building I want to take a look up close or walk down any soi I want to explore. If you live in places like Ladprao, it’s really difficult if you want to just stroll around and the vibe is totally different.
Do you think the MRT will have any impact on people’s lives?
I think we already have decent transportation: buses, boats and tuk-tuks. I can get to the MRT or BTS in about 20 minutes. With the MRT coming, it will be even more convenient, but knocking down the really old buildings in Yaowarat is not the way it should be done. Those buildings should be preserved and the MRT built a better way.
What’s the rent of this shophouse?
B20,000 a month. It costs a fortune living here as you have to fix so many things due to the buildings being pretty old. The worst problem is the termites.
What are your favorite places?
I find the Khao San area a bit boring, but I like the night market behind Wat Chana Songkram. The vibe is very chill and the space is much bigger. For hanging out, I recommend Babble & Rum at Riva Surya. It's by the river, quiet and the food is not expensive. Khao Tom Fa Mui is a great choice for late-night people. Just make sure you don’t miss the moo krob tord gluea [fried pork with salt]. We also have a good izakaya here at Musashi Bar while Adhere is one of the few places you can find real blues bands in town.
What do you like most about your neighborhood?
I grew up in a family who loves eating. So this place is heaven for me. The food here is cheap and the quality is great. And we’ve got plenty of parks, places where people can connect with each other. It’s perfect for dating, too.
Why did you choose to live on Phra Sumen Road?
We’re lucky that everyone here is against transforming the area into a loud and drunken nightlife area like Phra Arthit. We share the same interest of admiring the culture in the area, so we have pretty unique places like Passport Bookshop, Dialogue, Brown Sugar and lots of little cafes.
How long have you lived here?
Ked: I was born here. My parents lived here selling salapao (Chinese bun) for 10 years.
Em: I moved here nearly 10 years ago from the Ramkhamhaeng area.
How do you get around?
Ked: We both use public transport. As you can see, it’s hard to find parking here.
Em: I have no plans to buy a car. I think it’s really convenient living here. It’s near important places like The Grand Palace or Sao Chingcha [Giant Swing] and even the BMA Office. You will never get lost. Everything is so close at hand.
What do you like most here?
Ked: I work in the city center at Ploenchit. Having to travel to such a bustling area, when I reach home I really appreciate how peaceful it is. It’s a slow life, here. I love that the neighbors know each other. I also love that buildings here are low-rise. I’m able to walk and see a clear sky filled with iconic attractions like the Giant Swing.
Em: I like the city planning, here. It’s clearly defined: block after block. It’s like nowhere else in Bangkok. You can walk along the street and see beautiful buildings. Everyone knows each other and there are always shops open on the street for late-night street food, so I feel safe walking here.
Any cons of living here?
Em: Yes, the protests. As you know, this is a place with a long history, especially regarding politics. As such, Democracy Monument is always one of the main places people gather to protest. It’s quite hard to get around at these times. Other than that, it’s really a pleasure to live around here.
Have you ever thought of moving to the city center?
Ked: I considered buying a condo to get to work easier, but then I thought of what we have here: the buildings, the parks, the people. It’s really warm and welcoming. So, I ditched that idea.
How do you feel about the arrival of the MRT?
Em: We love it. It’s going to be great for people and tourists to visit here. I don’t think it will change the sense of community that much, because many people who live here come from families who have lived here for generations. It’s hard for them to sell up and move out.
What’s your favorite place in the neighborhood?
Ked: I love Lan Kon Meaung for its cheerleader troupes practicing their routines, old people doing their tai chi... I also love Phra Athit Road: it’s not modern like Sukhumvit but it’s got a real charm. My favorite food is Siriporn Pochana which is just across from my house. Their tomyam pla is superb. Its tangy sourness perks me up every time.
Em: My favorite place for shopping here is Klong Lod. I can find anything there: fabric, vintage bags, classic glasses, antiques and even plants.
What do you make of the changes in your area?
It’s completely changed from how it used to be 30 years ago. Tha Tien used to be one of the most bustling markets in town as it sat right on the bank of the Chao Phraya River. The old times here were so great. My family business went really well: our kitchenware and cleaning items were in great demand. But when convenience stores arrived, our business, as well as those of our neighbors, didn’t do so well. When I came back from Australia, I decided to open a small café called Food Route as I learned how to bake while I was abroad. There are many tourists who go to Watpo Thai Traditional Massage School in my soi on Maharat Road so it really fits the bill.
Is it hard to get around from here?
For cars, yes. The traffic is bad. So my first choice is the Chao Phraya Express Boat. It’s so convenient as I just walk to Tha Tien Pier then hop out at Sathorn Pier to get into the city.
What’s the charm of living here?
It’s the sense of community. People have lived here for generations. Grandpas knows grandpas, parents know parents and, of course, kids play together. It’s really hard to find in today’s society. Those old people who moved out because their children live elsewhere still come back to chat with their old friends. It’s a real bond.
What do you think of the arrival of the MRT?
I'm really scared that it will become another Khaosan Road. I like that the MRT is coming but the community here must be strong in order to retain its charm. What’s the point of turning this place into a street of endless guesthouses and cafés? We should retain our identity as a residential area with small shops owned by people who live in the area.
What are your favorite local joints?
It’s mostly food places. I recommend Kim Leng at Kok Wua junction. It’s a small baan-baan restaurant that’s a real hidden gem in the area. I love their mee krob [fried crispy noodle]. Another one is Farm to Table near Flower Market. I love their black sesame ice-cream and green tea float. There’s also the Yen Ta Fo Nai Auan near the BMA office. It’s superb. As I’m running a restaurant, I love to buy ingredients at Trok Mo Market. Everything there is so fresh and bursting with flavor.
What’s your routine like living here?
Now it's strawberry season, so for fruit suppliers like me, we sleep from 5pm-1am. The products arrive at 2am, which if you are sleeping, is the loudest hour. Some shops open normal hours so Pak Klong Talad is literally a place that never sleeps. Say you come back home drunk at 3am and try to sneak in quietly—the next morning, your parents will hear all about it from the neighbors anyway.
Have you ever thought about moving elsewhere?
I once thought about moving to a condo after finishing my Master’s Degree but once I realized how much my parents love living here, I started to like it, too. I took on my parents’ business after starting to help them during the economic crisis. Once I learned how exhausted they were, I couldn’t not help them.
What do you like to do in your free time?
Riverside cafes are always my venue of choice. But if you visit the area and have the energy, it’s a really great place for a walking tour to visit the temples. You should start from the Grand Palace, City Pillar, Wat Suthat, Wat Pho and Wat Chana Songkram, then take the shuttle boat across the river for Wat Rakhang and Wat Arun before coming back for Wat Kalayanamit and San Chaopho Suea.
And your favorite food?
Jae Pom on Saphan Lek. Their beef noodles are amazing. The price starts from B80 but you get a really big tender chunk of beef. Do go early as they’re all done by around 1pm.
What are the problems living in Pak Klong Talad?
Parking is a troublesome. We can’t park our cars in front of our houses like elsewhere because there are vendors set up on the street. We have to park at a monthly rental spot on the riverside or sometimes across the river. The traffic is pretty bad here, too, especially at Chinese New Year or Valentine’s Day. A few years ago, the two were on the same day—the traffic was nuts. It’s a hectic place but it’s home for me.
1. Escapade Burgers & Shakes
This tiny shophouse with an equally petite courtyard out the back serves up the homemade liquors of mixologist Karn Liangsrisuk and the juicy burgers of chef Van Rohitratana. We recommend a beef burger (starts from B180) with homemade ketchup. 112 Phra Athit Rd., 087-363-2629, 081-406-3773
2. Food Route
Tucked deep in the old town, this small café serves a variety of tea and coffee with homemade baked cakes and cookies. Coffee here starts from B50 and cakes include the Yakult pipo cake (B75) and coconut cake(B70). They also offer homey organic dishes. 320/10-11 Maharat Rd., 02-622-1921
3. Seven Spoons
This eatery, now in a bigger space, serves up healthy and delicious, homey and hippie American meals such as a quinoa salad with grilled vegetables and feta (B260) or razor clams with tarragon butter (B290). They are now also open for lunch with a menu that includes the delicious tempeh wrap with mixed greens, roast eggplant, tomatoes and green chutney (B160). 22 Chakkrapatipong Rd, 02-629-9214
4. Dialogue Coffee and Gallery
Set in a 100-year-old house, this coffee shop and art gallery serves up drinks and snacks: cappuccino (B50) and quesadilla with meat sauce (B90), plus some wine (from B140 by the glass). 533 Phrasumen Rd., 084-754-8799
5. Babble and Rum
Make the most of its location right beside Phra Arthit pier by heading to the outdoor terrace at sunset for the full package: comfort food (smoked salmon and avocado salad, B290), tasty cocktails (candy-flavored vodka, melon syrup, lime juice on top of jelly, B280) and views that take in the river and two bridges (Pinklao and Rama 8). Riva Surya, 23 Phra Athit Rd., 02-633-5000
6. Sheepshank
The folks behind Seven Spoons bring us this sophisticated boat house where you can sit back and enjoy river views while noshing on dishes like the seafood paella with Spanish saffron (B320). Phra Athit Rd., 02-629-5165
7. Farm to Table
This organic café not only grows their own vegetables, in Phu Chee Fah, but turns them into ice cream with flavors like sesame, green tea and wheat grass (B35 per scoop). Order it as an affogato (scoop of ice cream with espresso shot, B80) or stick with the iced latte or green tea (B45). They also do daily lunch specials. 179 Asdang, Wongburapapirom, 02-115-2625
8. Bamsha
This old-school shophouse serves up coffee, exhibitions and events like poetry readings, painting classes and live folk music. Food includes their signature Bamsha burger (B150) to go with their drip coffee (from B60). 507 Prasumain Rd., 084-160-0052
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Only a small group of people know my real love for jazz. My family is full of musicians who play jazz. My passion is the jazz guitar.
Sometimes you must be patient in order to reach your dream. I wanted to be a jazz musician but there was no audience for it a decade ago. If I’d tried to release a jazz album right away, it would have been career suicide.
Jazz is like fine art for me. It’s this abstract thing that not everyone will truly appreciate or understand. On the other hand, rock is something people get right away.
Being a rock star was one step in achieving my dream. I love jazz but I also love to sing rock songs. Rock was my passport into the music industry, thanks to the success of my first album (Catarock, 1998). If I released a jazz album today, it wouldn’t be a problem as the genre is now more widely known.
An artist’s image must be adaptable to endure in this industry. I think my fans would be bored if I just served up the same music album after album. With my new album, Catarock OSX, I decided to work with some new, emerging talents who have helped me start a new chapter, while maintaining my signature rock ballad sound.
Everyone has an identity but not all can show it. Many musicians struggle with this. All I can say is find a role model, learn from their work and attune things according to your experiences.
Being afraid of not being popular will only destroy your work. Many artists are trapped with this fear that their work won’t be a success and don’t focus on making their work the way they want.
Make your mindset crystal clear and stick to it. Look at the T-Bone band: they played ska-reggae for more than two decades when no one really knew what it was. Now they are undoubtedly the number one ska band in Thailand.
Alcohol is to blame for the darkest part of my life. I forgot to focus on what I love to do, music, and just hung around with people getting drunk every night. I even lay down in the middle of the road in RCA because I was so drunk.
I drank so much that I didn’t care about anything anymore, even my family and music. I would record songs when I was drunk and listen to them when I was sober. I would be like, “What the hell is this?”
I even got to the point where I didn’t want to play music anymore. I was an idol for so many people and I was like, “Is this all there is for me?”
Having a kid made me reconsider my behavior. I couldn’t go on acting like trash once I had [my son] Tigger. I wouldn’t have lived long enough to see him be successful if I kept on living like that.
Find a place that lets you be at peace. I was lucky that I changed when I did. My energy was about to run out. I needed to find somewhere to recharge myself.
Entering the monkhood led to my rebirth. It lasted only two weeks but it was totally worth it. All I did was meditate in a temple deep in the jungle. After I finished, I knew my life had begun again.
You won’t change if you don’t sit still and, with full consciousness, decide what what you really want to be. It’s like pressing a reset button, then you can start doing whatever you wish for.
It was my fault that I neglected to take care of my son when I was with my first wife [Nicole Theriault]. I thought everything would be fine as we had a nanny so I always went out for gigs and got drunk.
Nothing is better than getting the chance to right a wrong. The best thing about being reborn was getting the chance to spend time with my son, even though I had divorced from Nicole. I tried to be his daddy, not just the drunken guy I used to be.
Life is not all about setting big goals. I’m now really into writing and I’m planning to release my first book soon, Fang Fuek Len (Listen, Practice, Play), in which I talk about life and music. I’m also trying to finish my master’s in jazz studies at Rangsit University, where I’m also a special instructor.
As I get older, I want to spread my experience and knowledge. It’s better than just sitting at home after you’re retired from music.
I love taking pictures, especially using HDR [High Dynamic Range, a technique which produces painterly colors]. Some people think this makes pictures too dramatic to be realistic. But I see it as a great way to expand my creativity, making a simple photo into whatever my imagination dreams up.
Know yourself. Everyone wants to fulfill their desires. But you won’t unless you know what you really want.
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I have a childish imagination. As a kid, my parents both worked hard as doctors, so I spent a lot of time at home watching cartoons and playing with my toy robots. This expanded my imagination. And I still tap into that today in my work.
I love science fiction more than fantasy. For me, fantasy is surreal, but I prefer fiction that points at a possible future. This helps you work creativity to make things happen.
I like small offices. I’ve never worked with more than 10 people in my office. When I graduated from architecture at Chulalongkorn, it was the time of the Tom Yam Kung crisis so I decided to go work abroad in Singapore, where we had only four people. It was the same in my next job in the Netherlands, too. Now I have only 6-7 employees.
Living abroad expands your mind. You have to adapt to different societies. In Singapore, for instance, things are quite strict, while in the Netherlands, where I did my master’s in architecture and city planning, there is so much freedom. People aren’t afraid to voice their opinions, there, which brings great rewards.
Working with people your age is not always ideal. I founded a company with my friends right after I came back from the Netherlands. But it didn’t go well as we all wanted to do things our own way. That’s why I started Super Machine five years ago. It’s my killer machine.
Architects are like ducks. We can do everything, but only a little bit of each, like ducks can only swim, dive and fly a little. Architects must know a bit of everything to drive them further.
Architecture records history. It’s not just about designing something to serve the needs of people; it must say something about changes in society, too.
New and old architecture can sit side by side. All over the world, there are lots of old buildings that have been preserved for new forms or uses, like Las Arena, a decayed bullring in Barcelona, Spain, that’s been transformed into a mall complex rather than being razed.
I don’t believe in making timeless designs. Some people think that our designs are too bold and that people will get bored with them after a short time. But sometimes when you’re preoccupied with making something timeless, it limits your real creativity.
Thais often make hasty decisions. When you don’t think things over you end up with skin-deep beauty. Just look at government projects or when local administrations decide to build something with a Thai touch. They end up not designing it properly and coming up with some weird building with weird Thai touches.
I love to play with cultural issues in my design. The Big Mountain festival is a turning point for my work. When I was assigned to create the facilities for the festival, I discovered that I love to approach our culture in a sarcastic but creative way.
I love sticker-selling street carts. They totally reflect our culture. Somehow three unrelated things—stickers, colorful balloons and ceramic piggy banks—can be sold side by side and they make perfect sense.
Thai society is insane now. Looking at the political turmoil, it’s clear we’re living by emotions not logic. Many people are posting things on Facebook and assumingpeople all over the country think the same. It’s not the case! There are millions of people out there who aren’t your friends on Facebook and they don’t think the same as you. Look at things logically.
Design is so broad nowadays. Everything is merging together. That’s why Super Machine isn’t limited only to architecture—we love to create everything.
I can’t do any one thing for too long. I always work play on Facebook while working, chatting and walking around. I never read one book at a time as I love to read a little of each. That’s why I always have dozens of books on my bed stand.
I like nerdity. It’s good to really understand an issue that you’re interested in. It’s fun to be deeply fascinated in something—it makes the working process flow nicely, too.
I love challenging myself, trying new things and seeing how far I can go. I used to go biking with my employees and found out these grandpas and ladies would easily overtake me. How could that happen? I went crazy training so now I can easily ride 300 kilometers. Next I aim to do a triathlon.
Travel is my ultimate passion. I work to save money to travel.
Traveling helps you understand why things are the way they are. You experience history and see the journey of people and things over time. Then you can apply this knowledge to your future tasks.
The more you see, the more you grow. That’s why I always bring my employees along when I travel to places like India, Cambodia, Spain and Japan. I’m planning to go to Peru next.
Freedom is important. I work with customers who give me the freedom to create work the way we want to answer their desires. I also work to save up money to travel anytime that I want without having to worry about timeframe or work preventing me from doing what I want to.
Trust your instincts. This is what I’ve learned as I’ve gotten older. The more you use reason, the more it will restrict your imagination.
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New Year’s resolutions come in January. But we’d actually like to fit into that tight dress or tailored shirt for the Dec 31st party. And besides, with all the indulgence that’s coming up, this could be a good time to compensate with some healthier activities, instead of postponing things to 2014. To help, BK has rounded up ways to whip your ass back into shape in four short weeks or less and divided them into three flavors: Healthy Pampering, Balance Boosters and Bootcamp Busters. Ready, set, go!
Jatenipit Lapanavanich, 27, business owner
I went to the gym with a friend for a flying yoga class but once we were there, she realized that she had forgotten her gym clothes at home. She insisted on doing the class in her casual clothes, which was fine until a difficult pose when her pants ripped.
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Chichanupong Chucherdratana, 24, freelancer
While I was exercising at the gym, a guy started hopping on different machines doing his own poses rather than following the instructed ones for each machine. He was doing these weird hand and leg movements; it was kind of like a traditional Thai Dance.
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Sompobb Kittisaratham, 24, freelance stylist
In one of my aerobics classes, our teacher forgot the steps. Luckily there was this lady who attended classes everyday who continued to dance. So, the teacher gave her the opportunity to come up the front and teach the whole class. I must say she was better than the teacher.
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