Amphawa has lost much of its tranquil appeal ever since it became a favorite destination for Bangkokians who swamp it every weekend to get some fresh air while shopping and eating at the bustling market. In the old days, Bangnoi Market was the busier of the two, as it was one of the major trade centers in Samut Songkram. But as roads grew more important than canals, Bangnoi faded into obscurity. Today, that’s exactly what makes it such an appealing destination.

Eat and Shop

Though Amphawa still reigns supreme as a food destination for its vast range of choice, Bangnoi does have a few yummy treats of its own. Start with Roti Tae Jiew (open Sat-Sun 9am-4pm), a Chinese take on roti stuffed with brown sugar and sesame. “It’s called ‘lau guay’ in Chinese but that’s hard to pronounce in Thai so we’ve decided to just call it Roti Tae Jiew,” says Nee, as she flips the crepe on her hot pan. “It’s our family’s special recipe. We’d always make it when celebrating the Chinese festivals.” Nee insists that the roti has to be eaten while it’s still warm and followed by Chinese tea to wash down the sweetness.

The next delicacy you must sample is at Khao Pad Pla Tu Boran Mae Phu (open Sat-Sun 11:30am-2pm, 081-308-7378), which combines two of Samut Songkram’s most famous products: namprik kapi Klong Khone (fermented shrimp paste) and mackerel. Half the charm is the presentation, as Mae Phu serves her famous dish in a banana leaf cup decorated with local flowers such as the deep blue un chan. Get there early as they run out fast. 

No market trip is complete without some noodles. Guay Tiew Tom Yam Jae Sa-nguan (open Tue-Fri 9am-2pm, Sat-Sun 9am-5pm) serves a local tom yam recipe topped with small pieces of dried shrimps—delicious. Still hungry? Gung Mae Nam Yang (open Sat-Sun noon-5pm, 034-738-265) grills giant freshwater prawns plucked straight from the river. Be warned that they run out fast too. Along the way, you’ll also see many ladies selling fresh greens from their gardens—so, stock up!

After you’re nice and full, take a small walk across the wooden bridge to the other side of Klong Bangnoi to Rakna Bangnoi (69 Moo 6, Bangkhontee, 081-931-6505), a shop selling vintage cupboards in bright colors. One whole wall of the shop is decorated with vintage steel trays in various styles, a rather stunning sight. “I just had this crush on the motifs these trays are painted with,” says Kob, the cheerful owner. “I thought there were only a few types of motifs at first, but after I started collecting them, I found out there were many, many different types, some of which are very delicate.” The trays, unfortunately, are not for sale “unless you buy the whole set.”

See

If you cross the Mae Klong River, there are a few places of note. Start with Wat Bang Kung, which was listed as one of the Unseen Thailand spots for its giant bodhi tree and 100-year-old ubosot (Buddhist chapel). Another site is the Church of the Virgin Mary or Atsana Wihan Maephra Bangkoet that is three kilometers further down stream. This 113-year-old church was built by Catholic missionaries and all the stained glass was imported from France. It is considered one of the most beautiful gothic churches in Thailand.

Stay

If you want to live the really slow life, Bangnoi offers many small, cute homestays. Our first choice would be Sai Nam Rue Ja Kan Homestay and Gallery (85 Moo 8, Bangkhontee, 081-336-7469) which has two non-air-con rooms at B800 per night. Befitting its name, this place is dotted with pictures and postcards portraying the river life around Bangnoi. At the corner further down the road, Bangnoi Koy Rak (83 Moo 8, Bangkhontee, 086-789-7833) has two air-con rooms with the great views of the Mae Klong River and balconies to take it all in. The first floor also serves as a little boutique with books, clothes and curios. Room rates start from B800-1,000. Come Nite Non Ni is a new homestay with three rooms which one of it can house four guests. Room rates start from B800-1,600. Finally, another brand new place is Ram Ruay Homestay (76/1, 034-761-768, 084-673-3768). The western-vintage style rooms are cute, if a little bit out of place here. Rates are B1,200 for two people and B1,800 for 3-4 people.

Getting There

Take Rama 2 Road until Km. 63. Then take the flyover to Samut Songkram. Take the same turn to Amphawa and continue for five kilometers.

As for public transportation, the easiest way to go is to catch a van at Victory Monument (Century Mall) to Amphawa where you can jump on a connecting local bus to Bang Noi.