I-S’s proposed route for a race around Singapore.

Ever since a pack of celebrity-hungry Americans raced along the PIE (sorry, “pie”) we’ve been addicted to TV’s Amazing Race. It seems all of Asia is so smitten with this reality TV series that we’re soon going to get our very own special Asian edition. We thought the organizers might need a head’s up, so here’s our I-S version of The Amazing Race in Singapore. Claws ready?
 

START

      Contestants will meet at Suntec City where they will have to drive the Duck Tours hybrid boat-bus to Pulau Ubin to receive their first clue.

Route Info:

     
Teams must stage another Freddie Mercury tribute musical at Esplanade–Theatres on the Bay to receive their next clue.

Detour:

     
Wear or Bare. A detour requires teams to choose between two tasks. In this detour teams can chose between “wear” or “bare.”

A: In “wear,” teams must go to Buangkok MRT wearing T-shirts with a picture of a white elephant to receive their next clue.

B: In “bare,” teams must go to NUS and find a student who hasn’t downloaded and watched the “Tammy” mobile phone video to receive their next clue.

Roadblock:

     
Who wants to play tour guide? A roadblock is a task that only one team member can perform. In this task, the team member must go to CHIJMES, select one of several trishaws playing blaring ’80s pop music, and cycle their team to Little India and find the parrot fortune teller to receive their next clue.

Detour:

    
In this detour teams can choose between “Ice Cold” or “Warming Up.”

A: In “ice cold,” teams must go to Eski Bar and sit in their underwear for 20 minutes in sub-zero temperatures to receive their next clue.

B: In “warming up,” teams must walk from Wisma Atria to The Heeren Shops without being stopped by students and asked to donate money to charity to receive their next clue.

Route Info:

    
Go to Raffles Place and look for a person eating their lunch on the grass to receive your next clue.

Detour:

    
In this detour teams can choose between “Cheer” or “Beer.”

A: In “cheer,” teams must get on a bus and try to strike up a friendly conversation with a fellow commuter. If they manage to get someone to smile they will receive their next clue.

B: In “beer,” teams must go to Boat Quay and enter each establishment along the river until they can find a bartender who can pour a beer properly to receive their next clue.

Route Info:

    
Go to Tanglin Mall and find five people who can name the leader of the Workers’ Party to receive your next clue.

Roadblock:

     
Who wants to talk to the animals? In this task, team members must go to Sentosa’s Underwater World and swim with the sharks to get their next clue.

Route Info:

    
Find someone willing to speak about politics at Speaker’s Corner to receive your next clue.

Route Info:

     
Get into Ministry of Sound on a Friday night to receive your next clue.

Detour:

   
In this detour teams can choose between “Up” or “Down.”

A: In “up,” teams must go to the Swissotel the Stamford and run up all 71 flights of stairs to the New Asia Bar to receive their next clue.

B: In “down,” teams must flag a cab after 7pm without calling up to book to receive their next clue.

Clue:

    
Go to the Tan Quee Lan Street and be the first to get into The DHL Balloon and rise up to 150 meters to win The Amazing Singapore Race.

Now that we have the Asia version of the immensely popular "The Amazing Race", your dream of becoming a reality tv star might not be that far-fetched after all (besides which other reality show actually lets you travel around like that?), we chatted with 3 teams of hopefuls who are all vying for a spot, in that coveted reality TV hall of fame.

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Rochester Park is the latest “it” place to see and be seen in, with each of the five tenants bringing something new to the mix.

Located right near Buona Vista, Rochester Park is the latest dining neighborhood to hit the scene. This group of 11 tastefully restored black and whites, surrounded by foliage to give a sense of retreat and privacy, makes good use of our warm weather with large outdoor decks for plenty of alfresco activity. Cool crowds have been onto this for the last few months, but it’s only now that most of the dining joints are fully operational.

There are five food and beverage outlets open, with more lifestyle establishments planned. Landlord Jurong Town Council (JTC) is hoping to bring in more choice tenants such as a spas, galleries and boutiques sometime “soon” (that’s all JTC would tell us), adding even more drawcards to the mix.

But even with just the restaurants and bars, Rochester Park is a hip and happening place to chill, eat and drink among the beautiful people. What’s unique about Rochester is that patrons are surrounded by colonial architecture. This marks a significant change whereby restaurants and bars are moving back towards embracing our history, our heritage and (shock! horror!) our weather. I-S gets the lowdown on what’s happening at Rochester Park.

No. 1: One Rochester

6773-0070
This bar was really the first to attract the crowds to the new scene at Rochester Park, and we can see why. A large deck area with plenty of greenery, couches and candles make this a simply fabulous (dah-ling) place to chill out with a group of friends. Upstairs there’s a balcony and more seats, and the crowd is very chi-chi and cool. This is the place that everyone’s heading to and, thankfully, crowd control is good, so your table won’t be surrounded by the vultures waiting for you to get up and go. The flip side of this is that, unless you get there very early, you can expect to wait. Very little standing room allocated. No reservations are taken so once the place is full, you’ll just have to mooch around until space becomes available. Open Mon-Fri 6pm-1am; Sat-Sun 6pm-2am.

No. 2: North Border Bar and Grill

6777-6618
This is South Western cuisine from Arizona, New Mexico, Utah and Colorado, so you know what to expect: Big serves, tangy hot sauces and a friendly casual atmosphere. What you might not expect, however, are the wine room, the subdued and restrained décor of the interior and the gorgeous outdoor decking that has become Rochester Park’s signature architectural feature. They like things hot hot hot at North Border, so be prepared for spice in everything, including the desserts (chili ice cream anyone?). There’s also a retail store selling sauces and other accessories, including its range of Ass Kickin Hot Sauce products. Happy hour is from 3-8pm daily, and there are changing drink specials every day, including free corkage BYO on Wednesdays. Open daily 11:30am-midnight.

No. 3: Da Paolo Bistro Bar

6774-5537
The latest edition to the Da Paolo group has just had a soft opening. Diners can sample the usual Italian fare they have come to expect from the Da Paolo group, and there are the signature Rochester alfresco seating arrangements, polished floor boards and chilled ambience. Signature dishes have yet to be decided, but we’re expecting lots of antipasti, pizzas, pastas and drinks. Da Paolo Bistro Bar claims to be open Wed-Fri, Sun-Mon noon-2:30pm, 6pm-1am; Sat noon-2:30pm, 6pm-2am—but we suspect that, with the soft launch, they may also be ironing out their hours of operation, so call ahead.

No. 4: Graze

6775-9000
The latest venture for Hong Kong’s JIA Boutique Hotels is Graze, where contemporary dining, relaxing drinking and a good old barbecue meal all meet. The restaurant has a large outdoor drinking area, with rattan chairs, white cushions and a huge projector backdrop showing old black and white movies. Upstairs there’s the lounge bar, Mint, and inside there’s a modest range of sauces, spices and other culinary concoctions available for purchase. Chef Matthew Lawdorn offers a range of dishes, from barbecue meats to modern Western dishes. Graze’s point of difference, however, is its grazing menu, where the indecisive can order smaller tasting portions to share as they while their time away over a good glass of wine. And don’t miss the oyster shooters. Graze is open Tue-Fri 6:30pm-midnight (last food order 10:15pm); Sat-Sun 9am-3pm, 6:30pm-midnight (last food order 10:15pm); Mint is open Tue-Fri, Sun 6:30pm-1am; Sat 6:30pm-2am.

No. 5: Min Jiang

6774-0122
Forget the tacky décor and deafening cacophony we’ve come to associate with Chinese restaurants—Min Jiang is taking Chinese dining to a whole new level. And what a refreshing change it makes. The place is decked out with tasteful antiques, sedate colors and a fully stocked bar, as well as a large alfresco dining area. Owned by the folks at Goodwood Park Hotel, this upper mid-range restaurant offers a full page of Chef’s Specials, such as shark’s fin soup with spinach ($45 per person) and Chinese red wine fried rice ($16 for small, $24 for medium), but the one that you cannot miss is the Beijing Duck ($40 for half, $80 for whole). This is perhaps one of the few Chinese restaurants in town where you may want to stick around for a few drinks after your food instead of getting out as quickly as you can to go somewhere nicer. Open daily 11am-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm; Dim Sum High Tea Sat-Sun 3-5pm.

Whatever your preference in food or drinks, Rochester Park offers a unique, tasteful and übercool place to hang out. Check it out before it becomes so popular that you can’t get in.

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The source of classic Broadway tunes such as “Tonight” and “I Feel Pretty” and “America,” West Side Story is about conflict, revenge and, most importantly, first loves.

Musical West Side Story tells the classic tale of star-crossed lovers separated by a long-standing feud. Set in New York in the 1950s, it follows the story of Maria (Kirsten Rossi) and Tony (Josh Young). The Puerto Rican Maria belongs to the street gang The Sharks, the sworn enemies of the American-born Polish-descended The Jets (Tony’s crew). In a plot highly reminiscent of Romeo and Juliet, Maria and Tony swear their undying love to each other even as the feud among their friends escalates violently. I-S chatted to director and choreographer Joey McKneely.

What makes a good musical?
First a good story, then memorable music. From there it’s all up to the director and choreographer. They can make or break a show.

Why is it that particular Broadway musicals are so universally loved? What makes them stand out?
I believe it is because they act as a form of escape for an audience. Plus the performance is live. Something magical happens when everyone in the theater is feeling the same thing at the same time. A musical tries to do this with music, visuals, and words all at once. When it works, there is nothing else like it.

Why do you think West Side Story has had so much resilience after so many years?
Basically it is the love story. The first love, this is something all of us once lived. And the depth of that love story told against the conflict of hate is something that has gone on since man discovered he was not alone.

What’s your favorite bit in the musical and why?
It has to be the ballet. It just has such beauty and hope. It is love on stage.

Which scene is the hardest to choreograph? Why?
I think the opening is the most difficult to get right. It starts the show. No word. All dance. And the entire conflict it lays out, with each character being shown for the first time.

If you had to choose, would you be a Jet or a Shark? Why?
If I was a boy, a Jet; if I was a girl, a Shark. Each has the best choreography in the show.

Do you think the end is realistic? Could these two gangs really reconcile after all the bad blood that has passed between them?
Well, no. But one can hope that maybe one day the world will. That’s why it’s a musical!

Do you think the underlying message of the story has more relevance today than it did in the past, especially given the state of global current affairs?
Pick an era, there will always be conflict. It is human nature.

If you could choose any musical to choreograph and direct next, which would it be and why?
Actually, I don’t choose the musicals, they choose me.

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I-S follows the progress of our own would-be Bridget Jones and her attempts to quit smoking. Illustration by Jonathan Ng

DIARY OF A (SORT OF) NON-SMOKER

Week One

Used to smoke 1.5 packs per day. As of now, will be cigarette-free.
I am very determined that I shall quit smoking. I threw out all my lighters, cigarettes, ashtrays and cigarette butts (you never know how desperate you’ll get). From this day on I’ll have beautiful skin, white teeth and I won’t wheeze while trying to put my shoes on. I’ll be a glorious supermodel. I will start walking one kilometer every morning at 6:30am. I feel good. I can’t wait to tell everyone about the brand new me.

Later in Day One

Lasted only 10 minutes on my walk and had to rest. I tried watching American Idol without puffing away at 30 cigarettes. It just wasn’t the same. But it’s only the first day after all. I’ll be better tomorrow.

Week Two

Number of real cigarettes smoked: Zero. Number of imaginary cigarettes smoked: 2,159.
I’m feeling quite sanctimonious. I told everybody I was quitting and all were impressed. This now means I can eat all the chocolate I want.

I’ve been looking at myself in the mirror every five minutes to see if I look 10 years younger, if my teeth are any lighter, or if my skin is any better. People at work say I look a lot fresher and that I’m glowing (come on, it’s not like I’m pregnant) but I think they’re lying. I know for a fact that my butt is definitely at least five centimeters wider since last week. How can it be possible to put on this much weight in one week?

I might need glasses because everything looks like a cigarette. My favorite perfume is cigarette smoke. Thank goodness for those chocolates.

Week Three

Cigarettes smoked: 1 pack.
I was doing really well. Then I suddenly decided I had to have two cigarettes. I went to 7-Eleven and bought a pack and smoked five in a row. I came back to the office, told my office neighbor that I had smoked one cigarette, and she forced me to give the cigarettes away. When my boss found out, he was so mad he threw a pen at me. I promised that it was the last stick I was going to have.

Now I can’t stop. I’ve been hiding out and smoking with a mint in my mouth and a bottle of perfume in hand so no one will know. But every time I return to my desk, there is a photocopied newspaper article on quitting via laser treatment staring back at me.

I am on my way to quitting, it’s just that I’m having a little setback. I’m definitely going to quit tomorrow. Then I’ll have a healthy body, more money, and all those wonderful things. This is only a temporary lapse.

Week Four

Cigarettes smoked: So many I have lost count.
This was supposed to be my glory week: Week Four of Quitting Smoking. Now I’m sneaking at least 1.5 packs a day. It’s like the whole world is disappointed with me. My boss says he’s really annoyed that he has to spend so much time listening to my whining. My office neighbor casts looks of pity at me.

I was exercising but now I can’t bring myself to look at my new running shoes anymore as it’s too depressing. The only reason I still swim every day is so that I won’t forget that I actually do have lungs in my wheezy chest. Why is it so difficult? It’s not like I am smoking crack.

Week Five

Cigarettes smoked: I can’t be bothered to count. But I have gone up in strength.
I am imagining myself lying full of needles in an acupuncture studio in Chinatown and being rid of this smoking addiction. And if that doesn’t work, then I will next try acupuncture combined with hypnotherapy. I am willing to try any form of torture necessary. It’s just that I’m too busy at the moment to actually do it.

I should never have told anyone at work that I was quitting. My colleagues have plastered my entire cubicle with information on how to quit smoking. And the one who is giving me the hardest time is a smoker himself.

The entire exercise plan has collapsed. My shoes still look brand new and the hand weights I bought haven’t even been taken out of their plastic pack. Plus I’m eating all that extra junk I was using as a reward for quitting. Not only am I a smoker, but now I’m a fat one as well.

Just Do It

Quitting smoking using sheer willpower alone is notoriously difficult. Thankfully there’s now an array of different sources smokers can turn to for help with stubbing out the habit.

Acupuncture

Acupuncture focuses on applying pressure to the pressure points that will circulate qi to calm the nervous system. This helps to treat cravings, irritability and restlessness. Physicians treat patients according to their specific smoking habits, so treatments are designed specifically to suit individual needs. Registered TCM (traditional Chinese medicine) Physician and Acupuncturist Amy Liang (Kiat Siong Clinic and Acupuncture, Blk 465, #01-30 Crawford Lane, 6733-0777) suggests that initially the patient should have three visits on three consecutive days for 30 minutes. After this, treatments should be twice weekly. Liang charges $35 per treatment. Treatments that also incorporate weight management cost $48.

Laser Therapy

A bit like acupuncture without the needles, laser therapy works on a similar philosophy to the older science. A laser is applied to pressure points on the ears, nose, hands and wrists to stimulate the release of endorphins. The idea is to give the smoker feelings of relaxation, calm and well-being, thus reducing stress levels and the urge for a cigarette. Phoenix Laser Therapy Centre (26/F, Tower B, Ngee Ann City, 391B Orchard Rd., 6836-9305) claims their Quit Smoking Program is completed after only three hour-long sessions over three days. But quick fixes don’t come cheap: The total cost for the sessions is $640. Counseling is provided.

Nicotine Replacement Therapy

The way the Nicorette products work is to provide low levels of clean nicotine (nicotine without the harmful tar and carbon monoxide of cigarette smoke, the primary causes of cancer and cardiovascular disease), to help smokers curb their withdrawal symptoms.

There are three kinds of product. The Nicorette Gum is a sugar-free gum that can be consumed whenever cravings are experienced. The gum releases nicotine into the bloodstream through the mouth’s lining. They are available in two strengths. The 2mg product costs $19.90 for 30 pieces, and $58.80 for 105 pieces; the 4mg product costs $29.95 for 30 pieces, and $88.20 for 105 pieces. A full course of the gum usually takes around 16 weeks to complete.

The Nicorette 16-Hour Patch is designed for use throughout the day, so it’s put on in the morning and taken off before bed. It delivers a controlled dose of nicotine throughout the day, and as the smoker is slowly weaned off them, dose levels should be decreased. It’s available in three doses ($34.65 for seven 15mg patches; $31.50 for seven 10mg patches; $28.90 for seven 5mg patches) and it’s recommended that these are used for about 12 weeks.

To address the behavioral aspects of smoking, the Nicorette Inhaler allows smokers to still mimic the hand to mouth inhaling action of smoking, through a mouthpiece with a replaceable cartridge of nicotine. The amount of nicotine released is about eight to 10 times less than that in a cigarette. It’s recommended that six to 12 cartridges be used per day for a minimum of eight weeks, and then the number should be reduced. A box of 18 cartridges costs $26.25. None of the Nicorette products should be used for longer than six months.

Hypnosis

The theory behind using hypnosis to quit is that it puts the smoker in a state whereby the conscious mind is bypassed. By changing habits in the subconscious, it is supposed to be easier to change conscious behavior. But success depends largely on the smoker’s willingness to go into a hypnotic state. Certified Hypnotherapist El Solaris RP (9615-3348) suggests social smokers will need two sessions ($330) to stop smoking, while other smokers will need four sessions ($660). Single sessions are also available ($200).

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The great facelift of the health, fitness and beauty industries. Illustration by Jonathan Ng

The past decade has seen the health, fitness and beauty industries grow and join forces to make us look gorgeous and slim. Where we used to go to the doctor only when we were sick, now a visit to a general practitioner can be for purely cosmetic purposes. Cosmetic surgeons are employing the appearance of spa and aesthetic studios, and joining forces with spa owners to pool their resources and attract more customers. These industries, which survive on touting their ability to make us look and feel younger, fitter and better, have undergone a makeover to make themselves more attractive—and we can’t get enough of it.

I Feel Good

Recognition has grown over the last decade that we need to take better care of ourselves, both physically and mentally. Taking a mental break from the stress of corporate life is something we are getting better at, even if only briefly and infrequently. And that’s where the spa industry kicks in.

Spas are everywhere, so much so that even our concept of the word “spa” has changed. Whereas 10 years ago a spa treatment was something for tai tais or for extremely special occasions, now spa massage packages start from just under $100 and we use them more regularly. Just a few years ago, it was only the big glitzy establishments, such as Spa Botanica and RafflesAmrita (which opened in 2002 and 2000 respectively) that would call themselves spas. Now, every mum ’n’ pop place down the road is using the word.

Or you can just do-it-yourself, thanks to the enormous range of DIY spa treatments available off the shelf. Most spas now sell their own range of products—exfoliating scrubs, cellulite creams, toning and moisturizing masks—so that what was once a rare luxury can now be purchased in most beauty salons and even supermarkets.

Indeed, health is no longer the territory over which the medical profession reigns supreme. More alternative therapies, previously pooh-poohed by medical doctors, are now accepted parts of everyday life. Osteopaths and chiropractors abound, and acupuncturists and reflexologists are not just catering to the Chinese market anymore. We recognize health is more than just prescriptions and pills—and are willing to look into every avenue to get it.

Let’s Get Physical

Finally, we have a fitness industry here. Previously slothful Singaporeans, who would prefer to take a 45-minute bus ride or catch the MRT to avoid a 10-minute walk, have taken to exercise like ducks to water.

Don’t believe us? The Singapore Sports Council recently revealed that the number of Singaporeans doing exercise at least once a week has gone up by 10 percent since 2001. And the boom in gyms, yoga, Pilates and dance studios is testament to the fact that we like to work up a sweat, if only for reasons of vanity.

Gyms have consolidated their place in our lives with the arrival of giants like California Fitness, Planet Fitness and Fitness First. Over the years, gym workouts have changed too. Far from being just about muscle men pumping iron, gyms are now more specialized. There are women’s-only gyms and fitness centers (such as Amore Fitness and Go! Fitness) while others, like Virtual Fit and Phillip Wain, offer more new age classes such as martial arts, yoga, Pilates and even fusion salsa dance classes.

This is a trend sweeping the industry. Yoga has become a huge money-spinning industry since big boys True Yoga and Pure Yoga established themselves in town in the last 18 months. Rather than being considered something just for hippies, yoga and Pilates are now cool ways to build muscle strength and tone the body—yoga was the tenth most popular sport in Singapore in a recent National Sports Participation Survey.

Mirror Mirror On The Wall

Beauty products are no longer considered “hope in a bottle.” Now you can pay cold hard cash to get rid of that cellulite or eradicate the crow’s feet. Doctors have moved in to carve out their slice of the lucrative cosmetic market, and we can’t hand over our bucks fast enough. Yes, there was plastic surgery 10 years ago, but only people like Elizabeth Taylor and Michael Jackson could afford it. Now getting a little “work” done is something one barely bats a new double eyelid at—for instance, breast enhancements would cost around $600 less today than they did 10 years ago.

The encroachment of general practitioners onto a field that, up until very recently was dominated by plastic surgeons, means that competition is fierce, prices are falling and everyone is striving to make procedures quicker and less invasive. The advent of non-invasive aesthetic treatments has made cosmetic improvements more accessible than they were 10 years ago, lessening the stigma of seeking medical help for beauty treatments.

For example, what is commonly known as microdermabrasion (previously called dermabrasion) existed 10 years ago, but the techniques doctors use to perform it nowadays have changed. Previously, the procedure involved some trauma as patients were required to go under general anesthetic. Today, patients can leave immediately after the procedure. Fewer “accessories” (like anesthetic and follow-up visits) also mean costs are cheaper. So what used to cost $600-$700 and require a hospital visit, now costs around $300 and can be done in a day in a doctor’s consultation room.

And this is essentially the biggest change to the health, beauty and fitness industries in the past decade. The merger of the three into one giant wellness industry. The lines between health, beauty and fitness have become increasingly blurred. Aesthetic clinics are locating themselves opposite spas, we seek beauty treatments from doctors rather than beauty therapists, and having a massage is recognized as having health benefits for mind, body and soul.

In a clever marketing strategy, this consolidated wellness industry is attracting a wider customer base, thus encouraging consumers to spend more. Those who don’t like to think of themselves as vain can justify a facial for relaxation purposes, while the spa-like environment of an aesthetic clinic keeps the medical aspect of the procedures less prevalent in the minds of patients. Like a well cut tai tai, the face of the wellness industry is getting sharper, more streamlined and is definitely making itself more attractive.

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I-S looks at the trends, cuisines and restaurants that have impacted the dining scene over the last 10 years.

The Upper Crust

Perhaps the greatest change to our dining scene in the last decade has been the emergence of independent fine dining restaurants. Independents really started to take root in Singapore with the likes of Michelangelo’s, which opened in 1995, Da Paolo’s Il Ristorante (1996), and Senso (2000). Now, many of our best fine dining institutions, such as Saint Pierre, Garibaldi and Shiro, are independently owned, stand-alone restaurants that have distinguished themselves from the five-star hotels with their own loyal customer base, innovative cuisine, ambiance and personality. Indeed, the market for fine fare is so lucrative that the World Gourmet Summit has become a flagship event, also celebrating its tenth anniversary this year.

Winos

Drinking wine as part of our meals is something that has become the norm over the last 10 years. It seems that with increasing variety and competition bringing forth decreasing prices, and growing general knowledge about wine, we have incorporated a drop of white or red into our lifestyle in a way never seen before. Now many restaurants—Asian included—have extensive wine lists indicating which wines to enjoy with your meal. Retail wine bars now abound (such as  Wine Network, The Wine Co. and Wine Connection) beside long-standing wine drinking establishments such as Que Pasa.

Hubs and More Hubs

In the past, we used to make our way to isolated restaurants with little or no surrounding competition. But the late ’90s and early ’00s have seen the emergence of a new type of urban development: the dining neighborhood. Areas such as Club Street, Ann Siang Hill and Duxton Hill were among the first to become attractive destination dining precincts. Now we have Greenwood Avenue, Chip Bee Gardens and more. Look out for the latest development—Rochester Park, home to the new “it” spot for outdoor drinks, One Rochester, plus new restaurants North Border, Min Jiang, and others like Da Paolo and Graze opening soon.

Cafe Culture and Gourmet Delis

Over the last 10 years our kopitiams have found some fierce competition with the arrival of lattes, cappuccinos and short blacks into the caffeine-induced mindset. As if to prove the popularity of European-style coffee, chains such as Starbucks and Spinellis arrived on our shores in 1996 and jostled for space beside homegrown giant Coffee Club. And the kopitiams are fighting back with kopiccinos and other innovative new hybrids.

Sandwiches are finding a new lease on life too. Since 1997 and 1998, respectively, Cedele and O’Briens have been trading on the good name of their whole wheat or rye sandwiches jammed full of interesting fillings.

To make your own great sandwich one needs a good deli, and luckily the past decade has seen a growth in these as well. We’re no longer limited to old standby Jason’s. Along with places like Cellar Door and Culina, we now have delis such as Da Paolo Gastronomica and Something to Go that specialize in charcuterie and gourmet takeaway meals. Bunalun has gone so far as to specialize in organic produce, and is one of the new breed (including Lazy Gourmet and Ricciotti) which also features a little restaurant area. For the office worker with no time to cook (but who still wants to eat well), we’re grateful chefs have figured out there is money to be made out of good gourmet food to go.

The Top 10 from 10 Years

Here are our I-S picks for the top 10 restaurants that have had the greatest influence on Singapore’s restaurant industry in the last decade (listed in no particular order).

Les Amis

There is no doubt that the Les Amis group is the giant in Singapore for fine French fare. Other fine dining chefs owe Les Amis a debt of gratitude as in 1994 it became one of the first restaurants to show there is a market here for haute cuisine.

Club Chinois

The ever-expanding Tung Lok Group changed our perceptions of Chinese food by successfully bringing modern Chinese cuisine to Singapore in 1997. Club Chinois was so successful that it spawned two more hits, My Humble House (2002) and Space @ My Humble House (2004)—plus a slew of competitors.

Crystal Jade

Love it or hate it (we fall into the former group), Crystal Jade is the undeniable giant in the Chinese restaurant stakes, rivaled only by the Tung Lok Group. With their delicious xiao long bao to consistently great dim sum, this restaurant chain dominates the Chinese restaurant market.

Mezza9

The Grand Hyatt’s darling was one of the first restaurants to bring hotel dining to new heights. Opened in 1998, it introduced us to the hybrid menu concept, where, under one roof, diners are able to sample high quality fare from around the world.

Chatterbox

It remains to be seen whether the loss of Chef Steven Low in November 2005 will affect the success of Chatterbox, but this restaurant was the one to bring local hawker food into the five-star hotel market with its famous chicken rice.

The Line

Several years after Mezza9’s debut, Shangri-La’s The Line brought the fading hotel buffet back to life with fresh food in a chic environment. The Line spawned a number of copycats, and one of the biggest dining trends of 2005.

Michelangelo’s

It was Michelangelo’s that transformed the Chip Bee Gardens area into the trendy and sophisticated part of Holland V. Chef Angelo D. Sanelli’s dominance is proven by his other ventures on the stretch, Sistina, Original Sin and the Bent Fork cooking school.

The Marmalade Group

The true impact of Marmalade is in the success of the entire group since it launched the original Marmalade restaurant on Purvis Street in 1999. From Toast to the glamorous Pierside Kitchen and Bar and über chic Marmalade Pantry, The Marmalade Group has formulated just the right combination of trendy modern tastes with classic Western favorites to capture taste buds in every price range.

Saint Pierre

Since 2000, Chef Emmanuel Stroobant’s innovative flair has made his restaurant a leader in delighting Singaporean palates with truly creative cuisine, consistently resetting the bar on what can be done with traditional food with every new seasonal menu.

The Cliff

Dining neighborhoods might be the trend, but it was The Cliff that brought destination dining into the spotlight in 2002. The food is great, but going to this restaurant is about so much more: the scenery, the views and atmosphere. 

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The coolest bars, hidden cafes and little travel tips that will make you feel like a local in Shanghai, Taipei, Auckland, Phnom Penh and Tokyo.

With so many budget airlines and travel promotions to choose from, we’re all getting inspired to pack our bags and find out what’s around us. When you do finally manage to get onto a cheap flight and get your leave approved, make sure that you hit the right spots fast, rather than wasting time eating at tourist-filled joints and sifting through shops of gimmicky trinkets. After all, it’s those obscure little finds that are often the highlight of a quick getaway. Here are our insider picks on how to get the best bang out of your flashpacker buck in five happening cities.

Shanghai | Taipei | Auckland | Phnom Penh | Tokyo

Shanghai

Fast Forward

Shanghai is one of the fastest modernizing cities in the world. This is a place thriving on the buzz of being the region’s “it” city. Money bags combined with up-and-coming designers, architects and socialites can only mean one thing: Shanghai is a city on a jet-fuelled trajectory. Forget the package tours; here are some of the places worth checking out in this vibrant city.

Eat Drink Man Woman

✱ Who says there’s no such thing as modern Chinese food? At Jade on 36 (Pudong Shangri-La, 33 Fucheng Lu, +86 21-6288-8888), the menu’s an unusual blend of flavors and tastes that are well worth exploring because they’re all excellent. Located in one of the most glamorous new hotels with a gorgeous view, this is fine dining at its best.
✱ Tea houses are an ancient tradition, but for a very cool vintage tea-sipping experience, try Old Shanghai Tea House (385 Fangbang Zhong Lu, +86 21- 5382-1202) where the waiters wear Mandarin gowns and all the artifacts are genuine antiques personally collected by owner Zhang Jianming.
✱ Well-loved bar owner Cotton Ding has recently relocated her beloved institution Cotton’s (132 Anting Lu, near Jianguo Lu, +86 21-6433-7995). Not far away from its old address, there’s now an outdoor garden with a villa to match the funky but laidback bar inside.

Retail Therapy

✱ If you like antiques then head to Madam Mao’s Dowry (70 Fuxing Xi Lu, near Yongfu Lu, +86 21-6437-1255) where local Mao memorabilia is rife and propaganda chic art.
✱ For cheap accessories and trinkets, Xiao Shan Ping Shi Chang market at Xiang Yang Road is also worth a look, but you might have to hunt a bit for those bargains among the dross.

Sweet Dreams

✱ The luxury boutique hotel 88 Xintiandi (380 Huang Pi Nan Rd., +86 21- 5383-8833) has made its mark by renovating rundown traditional shikumen
(Shanghainese housing) into 53 stylish, elegantly-designed residences. Strategically set among exclusive boutiques, restaurants, cafes and bars, 88 Xintiandi is a contemporary nod to the past amid the rapid urban modernization.

Don’t Miss

Breakfast at Xiangyang Lu and Changle Lu. Come to this bustling intersection between 7am and 9am for one of the best breakfasts of your life. There’s a wide range of authentic street food on offer—from dumplings to noodle soup to freshly made breads—and nothing costs more than pocket change.

Hot Tips

Take taxis everywhere. No journey around central Shanghai will cost you more than 20 yuan so, though public transport is rapidly improving, taxis are still the way to go. But make sure that you have your destinations written out in Chinese—chances are your Shanghainese cabbie won’t be able to understand you, even if you do speak some Mandarin.

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Taipei

Baby Sister Grows Up

Far from being the poor cousin to Hong Kong, Taipei is a vibrant city rich in history and culture. All the commerce and industry in Taiwan is coordinated and run from Taipei, and the city is a suitably busy and noisy center of activity. The traffic is bad and it’s pretty smoggy, but the shopping is cheap, the food delicious and there’s plenty to do. This place is well developed, so you won’t have to miss your creature comforts while soaking up all that noise and commotion so synonymous with the Asian city charm.

Eat Drink Man Woman

✱ Know that dumpling place in Paragon that always has a huge crowd? It’s the sister restaurant to the locally owned Din Tai Fung (194 Xinyi Rd., corner of Yunkang St., Section 2, +886 2-2321- 5958) where yummy steamed dumplings are the order of the day. The restaurant has such a following that Japanese tourists queue up to try the famed dumplings at the original flagship outlet in Xinyi Road.
✱ The king of the hot pots in Taipei is Taihodiem Restaurant (315 Xinyi Rd., Section 4, +886 2-2705- 0909) which has been around for 11 years. It aims to resemble a Chinese pub in the sense that it’s all about enjoying good quality food in a homely environment.
✱ For a place to drink, lounge and hang around, Spot—Taipei Film House (18 Chungshan N. Rd., Section 2, +886 2-2511-7786) blends lots of different lifestyle concepts into one building. There are foreign movies from all over the world screening at the cinema, as well as an exhibition gallery, a bookstore, a coffee shop and wine lounge.

Retail Therapy

The One (30 Jhongshan N. Rd., Section 2, +886 2-2536-3090) serves lunch, afternoon tea and dinner to customers among the surrounds of designer lifestyle products. It’s all very cool and chic. Best of all, you can buy the products.
Wufenpu is the largest clothing market in Taipei. This is the place where locals come to shop for clothes, shoes and accessories at dirt cheap prices. There are over 100 stores with funky wares, making this a shopper’s paradise. Even street vendors buy their goods here to sell, so coming here is like going straight to the source.

Sweet Dreams

✱ For a luxurious resort and spa getaway try Spring Park Urai Spa and Resort (3 Yanti Wulai Shiang, +886 2-2661-6555). Here pampering is taken to the next level. There are hot springs in the resort, indoor bathhouses—even the little toiletries in the room are BVLGARI.

Don’t Miss

Look out for the little hole-in-the-wall foot massage parlors all over Taipei. Prices can vary, but they’re usually pretty cheap and are extremely popular with Japanese tourists. Massages are Chinese style and usually start with a bath in Chinese herbs before the real work begins.

Hot Tips

With the terrible traffic conditions and regular rallies, the easiest and fastest way to get around Taipei is to take the Metro Taipei. Rather than buying single journeys, get the multipurpose EasyCard which will allow you to use the ticket over several days across trains, buses and even in car parks.

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Auckland

Wolf In Sheep’s Clothing

Auckland is the backpacker mecca, and the high amount of young traffic means that, despite its tiny population, this little city is buzzing with hostels, bars, and cafes just waiting to be explored. Along with its cosmopolitan feel, Auckland still has the charm of a small city in a small country. Bring your manners because here, everyone politely thanks the bus driver when they alight.

Eat Drink Man Woman

✱ Peter Gordon is New Zealand’s most internationally famous culinary celebrity and his new restaurant, dine by Peter Gordon (3/F SKYCITY Grand Hotel, 90 Federal St., +64 9-363-7030) is a must try for those wanting to sample the country’s latest modern dining trends.
✱ If wine is your thing then try Number 5 Restaurant (5 City Rd., +64 9-309-9273) where the feel is cozy but contemporary with open fires and two private rooms for entertaining. There’s a lovely menu of Western European dishes and a huge wine list including the special Sommelier’s Indulgence: A selected fine wine that is specially decanted and aerated ready for drinking.

Retail Therapy

✱ In bohemian Parnell, Höglund Glass Art (285 Parnell Rd., Parnell, +64 9-300-6238) has some stunning glassware in their flagship gallery. There are other galleries in Melbourne, Sydney and around New Zealand, but this is where it all started. These are modern pieces that blend the clarity of glassware with bright colors and sculptural form.
✱ Local jewelry designer Tanya Bentley displays all her work at Mana Gallery (3/323 Parnell Rd., Parnell, +64 9-377-0417). Bentley likes to work with Pacific Island mediums such as paua (Pacific shell) and mother of pearl. She also stocks the work of around 70 other artists including glassware and ceramics.

Sweet Dreams

✱ Make the most of New Zealand’s quaint countrytown feel by soaking up a bit of good old fashioned B&B hospitality. At nearby Cotter House Luxury Retreat (4 St Vincent Ave., Remuera, +64 9-529-5156) the bed spreads are silk and the pillows and duvets are feather-stuffed: This is five-star all the way, baby. And as the entire place can only accommodate 10 guests at once, it’s all very exclusive.
✱ For something close to the harbor with gorgeous water views, check out Stafford Villa (2 Awanui Street, Birkenhead Point, +64 9-418-3022), a Victorian period-style B&B where rooms overlook beautiful gardens and the city is a mere 10 minutes away.

Don’t Miss

New Zealand has developed a niche market in extreme sports and Skyjump (2/F Sky Tower, corner Victoria and Federal St., +64 9368-1835 from overseas or 0800-759-586 from within New Zealand) allows visitors to experience some of that adrenaline without having to leave the city. This jump (NZ$195) from Auckland’s tallest building is not quite a bungy, but more like being dropped at 75km per hour, face first. What a rush!

Hot Tips

To get a better sense of direction around the CBD of Auckland, hop on the loop bus, The Link (NZ$1.50 per ride). It travels both clockwise and anticlockwise around Queen Street, Sky Tower, Ponsonby Road, the Newmarket, Parnell, and QEII Square. Buses usually run every 10 minutes during the week and every 20 minutes on weekday nights and Sundays.

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Phnom Penh

Take a Back Seat

Phnom Penh is not traditionally considered a “must-see” destination, but we think it’s been given a hard rap. Southeast Asia’s rapid expansion into the first world is naturally dragging Phnom Penh along with it, and as a result there’s a unique mix of haunting tourist sites combined with cosmopolitan hustle and bustle. This hotch potch city has a little of the roughness of Bangkok with a little of the elegance of Saigon, and all the charm of the Khmer people.

Eat Drink Man Woman

✱ If you want a place where everything is local then try the very new Romdeng (21 Street 278, +855 092-219-565), sister restaurant to the more famous Friends—The Restaurant (215 Street 13, +855 012-802-072). At both these places street kids are trained for free in essential skills in the restaurant business to set them up for a brighter future. At Romdeng the food is fresh and tasty and gives tourists a rare chance to sample what the locals eat.
✱ An institution with Phnom Penh’s foreign community, FCC Phnom Penh (363 Sisowath Quay, +855 023-210-142) is where, on a terrace overlooking the water, expats in white linen kick back and sip cocktails on Friday nights.
✱ For something a little groovier and less tourist-trodden, head to Rubies Wine Bar
(corner of Street 19 and Street 240, +855 12-823-962) where those in the know understand that it’s all about relaxing in a laid-back atmosphere, drink in hand, surrounded by your mates.

Retail Therapy

✱ Spend big but still chill out at Java Cafe and Gallery (56 E1 Preah Sihanouk Blvd., +855 023-987-420), an establishment renowned for serving good coffee, cafe bites and offering a monthly rotation of paintings.
✱ The newer Elsewhere (175 Street 51, Corner Street 254, +855 023-211-348) is home to funky locally-made clothes. There’s also a restaurant and a bar in a garden oasis—there’s even a pool if the heat gets too much for you.

Sweet Dreams

✱ The Intercontinental Phnom Penh (Regency Square, 296 Blvd. Mao Tsé Toung, +855 23-424-888) provides a majestic and regal getaway from the dust of most touristy areas. While it might be a little out of the way, it also means peace and quiet when you go to bed instead of listening to raucous backpackers out in the street and blaring bars.

Don’t Miss

The highlight of a trip to Phnom Penh is to have dinner with local tour guide Chamroeum Om (+855 12-837-309), better known to the tourists as Rarn. Rarn takes tourists home to have dinner with his family which is, no doubt, the most memorable experience you’ll have in Phnom Penh. Rarn gives a glimpse of what life is really like for the Khmer, and some of the stories you will hear are astounding. His tour guide income paid for much of the structure of the home that houses more than 40 people and, using tips and tourist donations, he also supports a tutor to teach English to 33 kids from around the neighborhood. For a reliable taxi driver to pick you up from the airport or even a tour guide to show you round Phnom Penh, we also highly recommend Rarn. His English is fantastic, he is a lovely trustworthy guy and you know all your money will be going to a good cause.

Hot Tips

Tuk-tuk prices should be negotiated before you start the ride. The local rule is never pay more than US$1 no matter where you are going within the city.

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Tokyo

Turning Japanese

High tech gadgets, fast-paced living and an outrageous sense of style are all part of the Tokyo lifestyle, which curiously lives cheek to jowl alongside strictly observed traditions and customs. This is the place where all of Japan’s contradictions come to a head. It’s easy to feel lost among all the Japanese signage, so here are some places to get you started. One thing’s for sure: You might get a culture shock, but you can never be bored in Tokyo.

Eat Drink Man Woman

✱ For truly modern Japanese head to the unassuming Kaikaya (23-7 Maruyama-cho, Shibuya-ku, +81 3-3770-0878) which looks like a typical Japanese pub. Instead, the grub here is trendy, innovative and well worth trying. Be sure to order the tuna sparerib, the jawbone of the fish.
✱ For something very traditional, head to Inakaya (1/F Yamaki Building, 4-10-11 Roppongi, Minato-ku, +81 3-3405-9866) where diners sit round a culinary stage. The chefs in yukata robes kneel on the ground barbecuing vegetables, seafood and meat which they pass over to hungry customers on giant paddles.

Retail Therapy

✱ The latest addition to Omote-sando Avenue is the brand new Omote-sando Hills, a huge five-star shopping center just opened in February. Designed by Tadao Ando, it takes up 250 meters of frontage on Omote-Sando Avenue proper and is all about five star labels: At least half of the big label stores here are flagships. This is 1.2 hectares of materialistic bliss.
✱ And if you like a bit of LV or just want to see some very funky architecture, check out the Louis Vuitton (7-6-1 Ginza, Chuo-ku, +81 3-3478-2100) store designed by Jun Aoki. Even if you can’t afford anything inside, it’s worth a look at the modern Christmas tree concept of white square panels with window
of light.

Sweet Dreams

✱ Tokyo is an expensive city, so if accommodation is where you choose to shrink your budget, Andon Ryokan (2-34-10 Nihonzutsumi Taito, +81 3-3873-8611) is a pretty good option. The hotel was designed by Irie Masayuki and the outside looks like a modern Japanese lantern (hence the name “andon”) while inside clean steel lines evocative of Japanese architecture make the communal bathrooms at least palatable. Best of all, all the staff are fluent in English.
✱ For a trendy, pricier alternative try Claska (1-3-18 Chuo-cho, Meguro-ku, +81 3-3719-8121) which fuses elements of art, design and culture into your holiday. Alongside the lobby area is a cafe, bar and a DJ party space. There’s also a gallery on the second floor. There are only nine rooms for short-term stay, the others for longer term each have a different contemporary design.

Don’t Miss

For those who think Tokyo is all about restrained conservatives in business suits, get on the train and head to Jingū-bashi next to Harajuku JR station on a Sunday afternoon. This is where the disenchanted and alienated youth of Tokyo and its surrounds come to express themselves through their fashion. Supermen, Bo Peeps and other weird and wacky costumed kids hang out together and will happily pose for pictures with gaping tourists.

Hot Tips

We’re all used to taking off our shoes when going indoors, but in Japan this is a particularly stringently observed custom. Pack lots of pairs of good socks with you—ones with holes are not going to impress anyone.

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I-S Magazine chats with people who have had amazing life experiences or done things most Singaporeans will never do.

How it Feels to Live with More than 30 Cats (And Three Dogs)

Christabel Chai is just crazy about cats. She hasn’t done a headcount recently, but there’s a lot of pussies lying around her house. She didn’t always plan to have so many living with her. It started about 10 years ago when she was feeding, sterilizing and vaccinating the strays in her area. The sterilizations were obtained free from the SPCA with vouchers and later with the help of the Cat Welfare Society, but the vaccinations were paid for out of her own pocket.

When stray cats were being culled during the SARS period about three years ago, for Chai, the next natural step was to take these cats home. “Otherwise, if they ended up being put down it would have been a waste of my time and effort sterilizing and vaccinating,” she says. “I know a lot of people who did the same thing.”

Chai’s home is set up to be cat proof. All the windows are with grilles so the cats can’t escape and are secure. She has cat cages, baskets, toys and food bowls stacked up all around the walls. And there’s a special caged section for the kittens she is raising until they can be rehoused elsewhere. All the cats are kept separate from the dogs who live outdoors in various sections of the yard.

Every one of the animals has a name and Chai knows them all. When asked how she can keep track of every feline, Chai answers: “I guess it’s like if I had more than 30 babies. I would just be able to remember.” But when asked which is her favorite, Chai is very diplomatic. “It’s quite difficult for me to pick a favorite with so many. It wouldn’t be fair.”

How it Feels to Be HIV Positive

Kym (not his real name) is a gay man in his mid-30s. About three years ago, during a routine annual medical check, he was diagnosed as being HIV positive. After the test he was immediately told of his diagnosis. He says he felt as any normal person would about the results: He was devastated. “But as time goes by, I have slowly accepted and learned how to deal with it,” he comments. This type of resigned attitude seems to be how Kym faces every part of his life that has been impacted by HIV. Kym hasn’t told his family or friends about his HIV status and he has no plan to do so. He reasons that there’s no need to tell them since they can’t really help. Instead, he gets his support from the Action for AIDS (AFA) support group where he has found other HIV positive friends. He doesn’t tell his sexual partners about his status because he thinks there’s no need to given that he uses protection. In fact, for a person who has a life threatening disease, Kym seems quite unemotional about it and was surprised we were even interested in hearing about his condition.

How it Feels to Be in a Coma

After a trip to Africa, Alison Urbina was in a hotel room in Germany when she called the hotel doctor to tell him she suspected she had malaria. The doctor failed to give her a blood test, and simply sent her back to bed. The next thing she knew, she woke up from a two week coma in intensive care.

“My experience of being in a coma was that it was the deepest, most peaceful, wonderful sleep you could possibly have. I have no recollection of anything that happened to me during the coma. My mother says I cried when she talked to me about my personal life, but I have no recollection of that, or of any of the procedures that were carried out on me—including being packed in ice for two days. I can’t remember any dreams I had during the coma, but when I was waking up, as they started to take me off the drugs, there were lots of strange dreams. That’s what I have memories of, nothing before that. I was literally in the hotel and, next thing I knew, I was waking up in the hospital.

Maybe it’s different for different people, but had I died while in the coma, it would have been a very peaceful death. I’ve often wondered if it might be comforting for people facing a similar situation to know that, for me, it was a very peaceful state. I wasn’t distressed because I didn’t hear anything. It was just like 13 days of deep sleep.

When I woke up I was mentally very refreshed, but physically my muscles hadwasted, and so I was in a lot of pain and was unable to move, sit or walk for some weeks. I also had problems with my vision, as my brain could not make sense of what I was seeing. I am very lucky to have made a very good recovery.

When I woke up I could have been asleep for five minutes or five years, I didn’t think to ask. I had no idea how long I had been unconscious. I didn’t feel anything different from normal sleep.

After a few months it hit me that I’d lost two weeks of my life. I suddenly realized that I had had no control over what happened to me while I was unconscious. It was quite overwhelming to realize that you can go from being a career woman, in control of your life, to suddenly losing control over everything. I was absolutely at the mercy of nature and the skill of doctors.”

How it Feels to Be a Heroin Addict

Moses A was a drug user for 15 years. With the assistance of The Helping Hand, a Christian drug rehabilitation center and aftercare house, he has been clean for the past four years. He now acts as a counselor on Christian care to others who are going through what he has been through.

“My mother tried many times to take me to halfway houses and she even paid money for me to detox but I only ever brought heartache and sorrow to her. I wanted to do good and quit but it was always so difficult to actually do it. Sometimes I wanted to commit suicide because I was so caught in the bondage of drugs. I tried everything, even walking on fire to sacrifice something so I could be free.

Heroin addicts experience physical pain when they don’t continue to use. Part of the withdrawal is feeling giddy, vomiting and aching bones. That’s why I couldn’t overcome it. Because of this, heroin addicts have to cheat, steal and lie. But I never stole outside my own house, only from my family.

Eventually my mother called the CNB [Central Narcotics Bureau] because she didn’t want to see her son kill himself. That’s tough love; she was helping me to save myself. The police came and arrested me for misuse of drugs. When they came it felt like the end of the world because I knew I was going to go behind bars for a long time.

I was in prison twice between 1994-1995 and 1996-1997. But being in prison didn’t help. While behind bars I would feel better and think I was going to be able to quit, but I would always fail. The moment I stepped out of prison I went straight back to drugs.
I have this new life only through the grace of God. Not only have I given up heroin, but also other vices such as smoking and alcohol. I am thankful to God that my mother doesn’t have to cry anymore.”

How it Feels to Nearly Lose Your Life

Bertrand Lee is a filmmaker who was run over by a truck in India in January last year. His entire lower body was crushed: His left leg had to be amputated, his pelvis and right leg were shattered and the complications from the severity of the injuries meant that he lost the strength in his other limbs and his neck. This resulted in a loss of speech and writing skills. Today, Lee’s speech is still slurred and the bone graft on his right leg has not been fully successful, leaving Lee to face the possibility that he may never walk again. He still has difficulty discussing the accident without breaking down, but says he wants to let the people who gave him support know how he is doing.

Lee’s memories of the accident are of the physical pain and the emotional suffering. “5 months and 26 days of staring at a blank ceiling wondering when I would ever get to leave the hospital bed,” he says. “For the first four months, I remembered nothing as I was on a lot of painkillers. Ironically, that was the time when I must have been fighting for my life. My doctors have told me that for a very long time, they did not know what else they could do to save my life. But it was only when the painkillers subsided, and I became more aware of what was going on, that my suffering really began. Not only was I wracked with physical pain, I had to deal with the trauma that I had lost control of all my limbs, and, initially, I had even lost my voice. I thought my life was over.

For the next month or two, I lay on the hospital bed not moving, not talking because I was in so much pain. I was unable to sleep at all. I refused to eat. I just lay awake and kept asking God to end my life and my suffering. By that time, I weighed just 40 kg.

Then one fine day, I realized that as much as I wanted to, I wasn’t going to die. I grew tired of all the sorrow. So I forced myself to eat. I forced myself to exercise. I exercised every single hour I was awake, so much that I managed to put on almost 20kg in only a month. A month later, I was finally well enough to be discharged.

I will have to endure physical pain for the rest of my life. To cope with that, I have to take a daily cocktail of drugs, the strongest being a painkiller called methadone. It is most famously used in Australia as a substitute drug to wean heroin abusers off heroin. That gives you an indication of the amount of pain I endure daily. When I can do everything that I want to do again, I will know I have fully recovered.

Besides the fact that I’m wheelchair-bound, I am very much still the same person. I am still ambitious, still a dreamer. Mentally, I don’t think I lost anything at all. Especially with regard to filmmaking: It was such a big part of my life, that I don’t think I’ll ever forget it. I don’t think the accident has done anything to hamper my filmmaking capabilities. I did it then. I intend to do it again.”

How it Feels to Be a Muslim in the Age of Terrorism

Sharifah Maisharah Mohamed works for the Centre for Research on Islamic and Malay Affairs (RIMA). Part of RIMA’s role is to address misconceptions and untangle stereotypes, something which Mohamed is very adept at herself.

“It is rare that I make an association of my identity as a Muslim with the terrorist movements that have been going on. What’s on the top of our [the Muslim community] minds is normal practical thinking, just like everyone else,” she says. “We think about things like the cost of living and the budget. Violence and power, the two principles which are associated with any kind of terrorism, do not dominate the normal Singaporean Muslim’s daily consciousness. Hence I think I have a clear conscience: Being comfortable with who you are as a Muslim so that even in this surrounding hoo-ha about terrorism, I do not feel threatened or under siege.”

Mohamed still expresses disappointment at the stereotypes that she acknowledges do exist. “The visual display of the Muslim identity may appear discomforting to some and it doesn’t help when some commentaries make the convenient association between Islam and terrorism, just because of the terrorists’ display of religious fervor. Muslims are not out to make the world run on their terms because they seem proud to display their peculiarities. So the key problem we see on both sides is, really, reckless behavior.”

Mohamed is quick to stress that she doesn’t acknowledge any terrorists who call on Muslims to take up arms as spokespersons for the Singaporean Muslim community. “They have no credibility except possibly that they have stood up to the US, which is really too superficial a reason to appoint them our representatives,” she says quietly.

How it Feels to Chase the Hollywood Stars

Sylvia Toh Paik Choo, a writer with The New Paper, has been going to the Cannes Film Festival for 15 years. Her hobby is to collect the autographs of celebrities and those associated with the film industry. She has hundreds of autographs from almost all the big stars: Michael Douglas, John Travolta, Brad Pitt, Nicole Kidman, Adrian Brody, Bruce Willis, Roman Polanski, Tom Cruise, the list goes on. Although it took her five years to figure out what was going on, now she has her routine for scoring the vital scrawl down pat.

Every morning there is a press screening at 8:30am, immediately after which there is a press conference. Those who want a good spot at the conference will go immediately to the press room after the screening to jockey for the best seats; Toh says when it’s a big star she wants to see she’ll even leave before the film is over to ensure she gets front row seats. As the press conference draws to an end the moderator will signal the final question and then the panel, often made up of actors, the director and the producer, will be swamped with journalists pushing and shoving to get close to the stars. People will shove anything at the panel from pieces of toilet paper to envelopes, in the hopes that the much coveted signature will be obtained.

At first Toh started getting the signatures for fun, but eventually she admits she became quite fanatical about it. “To me it’s a game. I will become quite singleminded about who I want to chase and then that’s it. I’ve never thought about what to do with them afterwards, although sometimes I joke that I’ll sell them on eBay when I retire. The value for me is in the score not in the dollars and cents,” she says.

How it Feels to Be a Social Activist

Chee Siok Chin is a very passionate advocate of democracy and human rights. In her spare time, when she’s not working for the Alliance for Reform and Democracy in Asia (ARDA), she’s actively engaged in trying to effect some change to the ways things happen around here. She was involved in the organization of the anti-death penalty forum that occurred before both Shanmugam s/o Murugesu’s and Nguyen Tuong Van’s hanging.

Chin strongly disagrees with the approach that economic stability is a worthwhile trade for some freedom of speech. “It doesn’t stop,” she says. “You can’t give up one thing and not expect to have to give up more later on. It makes it very difficult to hold the government accountable.”

The reason people aren’t more vocal here, according to Chin, is that they are dependent. “People have a sense of being beholden,” she goes on. “The government runs the housing, transport and businesses. It’s part of our culture to be apathetic so there is never any motivation to do anything. But just because we have bar top dancing and chewing gum now doesn’t mean we’re opening up and becoming more liberal.”

For those who think Chin is just making a lot of noise, she expresses some clear goals that she insists are valuable and important. “I want to create awareness among Singaporeans that they have rights that they should claim and exercise. Don’t let other people brainwash and control you. Own your own mind because if people don’t have a sense of ownership over their own country, then people will move away and we will lose valuable talent.” Chin sees a need for Singaporeans to “break free” and express themselves. “Activism is such a powerful and lively thing everywhere else except in Singapore. What we have to ask is whom am I a troublemaker for?”

How It Feels to Climb Mount Everest

David Lim led the first Singaporean Mount Everest summit attempt expedition in 1998. Lim never actually reached the top himself due to various factors, including injury, but he still maintains that he has done everything he wanted to do on Everest short of getting to the top.

“The experience of climbing Everest is all about being patient. On the marches to and from the bottom of really big mountains that are 8000m and higher, you spend a good half of the expedition sitting on your butt resting, waiting out long spells of bad weather. It’s definitely about managing anxiety and frustration. But once you are actually climbing Everest and the weather is reasonably good, the feeling is tremendous. The climb itself is not that exciting because it’s not technically difficult, in that it doesn’t require a high level of gymnastic ability of a mountaineer. The thrill is following in the footsteps of giants.

In fact, for mountaineers, climbing is about playing a game with self-imposed rules that are more important than getting to the top. It’s been crowded on Everest for quite a while so if you are looking for solitude and self-sufficiency, you won’t find it on Everest. You start to remove many of the most important mountaineering elements, like the spiritual pleasure, because people just want to conquer the summit of Everest above all else.

As a team leader, a lot of the experience involved negotiating, checking weather reports, keeping up team morale and working with other teams, a bit like organizing a military campaign, rather than just climbing. It’s my obligation to put other team members on the summit, even if I can’t make it myself. I did find my time on Everest immensely enriching and rewarding although it won’t give mountaineers the same experience that some other mountains will give.

It should be about the quality of the experience rather than the actual number of summits.”

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From plastic corks to innovative new food pairings, the way we drink wine is changing as old traditions are ditched for more modern approaches.

Ten years ago our wine scene was exclusive, snobby and full of more social faux pas landmines than a sommelier could sniff at. Most Asians hardly ever saw the stuff, let alone knew what was a good year or from what region. Today, wine bars abound and everyone likes to think themselves a bit of an expert. Indeed, much of the pomp and ceremony surrounding the drinking of wine has disappeared. Now wines come with screw tops, plastic corks and even (shock! horror!) in cans.

There’s no denying that things are changing in the way we drink our wine. Traditionalists might protest, but here are some of the changes we’re seeing in our vino.

Colorblind

It’s always been the accepted rule that red wines go with red meats, and whites with poultry and seafood. According to Christopher Tan, Manager of Oaks Cellars Takashimaya, this developed from the idea that white meats tend to be lighter and sweeter in flavor and would be overpowered by a full bodied red wine. But these traditional pairings are no longer the only acceptable way to choose which bottle to open with a meal.

At leading haute French cuisine restaurant Saint Pierre, seafood dishes are no longer restricted to being paired with sauvignon blancs and rieslings. In fact, their new winter degustation menu features a risotto with escargot and king scallops infused with pinot noir and paired with a Bourgogne rouge vieilles vignes.

And vice versa. In chef Emmanuel Stroobant’s latest book Vine Dining White, he educates Singaporeans by listing recipes according to the grapes they best match. For instance, he gives a recipe for braised lamb shank under chardonnay and marinated braised veal shoulder under pinot gris.

Stroobant’s philosophy is simple. “We match the wine with the ‘stronger’ ingredient of the dish. It is not always the meat or the fish but also the sauce, which can play a major role in the match. For example, the side dish for the cod [on our menu] is a bordelaise (red wine sauce) braised lettuce with veal bone marrow; it supports a strong red pretty well.”

Brave New World

Along with the etiquette associated with different colors of wine, traditionally the pairing of wine with Asian food has been, at best, a haphazard affair. In Asian restaurants, wine lists used to be very limited. Today, many Asian restaurants have more extensive offers. However, unlike in many European or Western restaurants, the lack of a recommended wine listed with each dish means there is always the risk that ordering a merlot will turn out to be a poor choice with a beef rendang.

Tan’s theory is that the Asian market’s lack of exposure to the wine industry until recently is largely responsible for the misconception that Asian food cannot be paired with a glass of red or white. However, with the growing awareness and popularity of wines, parallel principles to those used to match European foods with wine can be used to suit our Eastern palates. The two types of cuisine he suggests are the most difficult to marry with grapes are Indian and Thai—because of the complexity of the spices.

There are a few places that are making it a point to change this tradition. Old school Chinese seafood restaurant, The Seafood International Market & Restaurant, has recently opened a wine cellar with over 200 different types to choose from. At the newer 8 on Greenwood, customers have the option to add three specially selected wines to pair with their 12-course local food-tasting menu. The restaurant’s philosophy is simple: They have chosen wines that are clean and flexible, to blend well with the weekly changing menu.

When choosing the wines for 8 on Greenwood, Mathew Tip says he recognized early on that the two Asian ingredients that tend to create the most havoc for wine drinkers are chili and ginger. Add to that the woodiness and the tannins in the skin of the red grapes, and wines can be a bit difficult to match. For Tip there are two types of wines: Those for drinking on their own and those for consuming with a meal. While some complex and fruity wines must be superb as stand-alones, Tip claims these are often too complicated to have with Asian foods. So when selecting a wine for a curry laksa, the rule is that simple flavors are best.

Canning the Debate

Even for the novice wine drinker, it does seem a little odd these days when the waiter leaves a plastic cork or a screw top on the table in lieu of a more traditional cork. This new trend is something that tends to be more fully embraced by New World producers from Australia, Chile or South Africa, rather than those from France, Italy or Spain. But, apart from losing the nice “pop” that a natural cork gives when it’s released, these new technologies do have their benefits. For the average drinker, it means no more corks breaking off midway or cork rot allowing air to infiltrate and spoil the wine. And screw tops mean half-full bottles are no longer delicate items at barbecues.

But is convenience destroying the romance of opening a bottle of wine? The latest revolution in wine drinking is wine in a can. Although an initial reaction might be to recoil in horror at the thought, there’s no denying the can’s utility: It’s easier to store in the fridge and it’s more transportable. Cans also get around that irritating problem of having to open a whole bottle of wine when you know you want only one glass.

For Tan, wines in a can have their place in the food chain, but it’s not the prime spot in the cellar. When asked whether the tin vessel would affect the taste of the wine, Tan doesn’t mince his words. “Wines in a can are made to be like that,” he says. “If they [the producers] thought it was a great wine, then it wouldn’t be in a can.”

Whatever your preference, it’s becoming clear that the burgeoning wine scene in Asia is creating more than one way to skin a grape, whether we like it or not.

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Cycling is a no-fuss way to burn calories and socialize at the same time, and, believe it or not, there are better options than the East Coast.

With so little time to work, exercise and have a social life, a sport that allows you to do at least two at the same time may be the motivation you need to get your heart (and legs) pumping. The New York Times recently quoted Silicon Valley venture capitalist Randy Kosimer as saying “Cycling is the new golf” and the rise in the number of people doing it here seems to attest to that.

Marcus Coghlan is President of ANZA Cycling, perhaps one of the most well-known and well-reputed of the organized road cycling groups. He agrees that the attraction of cycling seems to be that it can be a group activity, especially in the case of road cycling. “You’re outdoors and exercising with other people,” he says. Unlike sitting on a treadmill pounding away to your iPod, cycling in a group allows you to catch up on all the gossip while still burning a few calories.

But don’t despair if you can’t get your buddies into the lycra and out of the house. Here are some ways you can jump on board and be a part of this latest sport trend.

Going Bush

Who says Singaporeans aren’t adventurous? Bike hashing is ideal for those who like a bit of bush bashing and hard core all-terrain grunt, and Singapore Bike Hash (SBH) claims to have been the first ones to do it. The fever caught on, and now bike hashing is popular all over the world; SBH even rides regularly in Malaysia and Indonesia.

Off the Beaten Track

For those who’ve never heard of it, bike hashing is a bit like run hashing. The Grand Master of SBH (who likes to be known as “Barbarian”) describes it as a “non-competitive ride following a paper or chalk trail with loops, checks and false trails incorporated to slow the front riders down and keep the pack together.” If you’ve got a mountain bike gathering dust in storage and you can’t find those rough terrain paths, SBH will find them for you, as well as provide a group of friendly cyclists to ride it with. Barbarian says this is the “ultimate” way to use your mountain bike.

Indeed, if you’re sick of the big city with its concrete buildings and pollution, a bike hash will get you back to nature in all kinds of weather, provided you’re not squeamish about getting wet.

All Together Now

Perhaps one of the most appealing aspects of the hash is that SBH welcomes all riders of any skill level. Hashes are designed so that all riders finish at the same time so, as long as you have basic cycling skills (can ride without falling off, use all the gears in the right situations, and are comfortable on your bike), you won’t be left behind. According to Barbarian, there are devices in the trail that are designed to slow down the front riding bikers and keep everyone together.

And don’t be scared off by Barbarian’s name: This is not an extreme sport only for the crazies. Barbarian stresses that it is non-competitive, and the fact that you’re riding off road means that road traffic is no longer a worry. Those who design the hashes (the “hares”) always try to ensure there is another way around an obstacle or a short cut.
If you fancy yourself a real jungle warrior on the bike, you also don’t have to worry about being bored as riders meet every three weeks with the trails changing frequently (check out meeting points at www.twa.com.sg/sbh). Most rides will take about two hours or are about 20 km long. Riders can join SBH for $60, which gives you at least 18 hashes a year, or pay $10 per hash. Make sure you get a helmet, though, as it’s compulsory to ride with one on, and mountain bikes are recommended.

On the Road Again

Get up early on a Saturday morning and you’ll see groups of sleekly clad cyclists on shiny machines pumping along in pairs. Don’t be intimidated: They’re actually pretty friendly and accommodating people, despite their space suit outfits.

Highway to Hell?

It’s not about being professional and fast at ANZA Cycling. To prove that the club’s not just for roadrunners, Coghlan stresses that there are usually seven to eight variations of rides per week. Some routes are as short as 30 km, others as long as 130 km. Route information and timetables can be found at their website (www.anzacycling.com) and don’t worry, this is not a situation where you’ll be waiting at 5am alone. There are currently 150 members, and Coghlan assures us that usually at least 20-30 people turn up for any given ride.

If you haven’t been on a bike since you came off your training wheels, you’re probably better off getting up to speed on your road skills before turning up. Being a nervous rider won’t help you when you’re in a big group: You’re much better off being comfortable riding on the road and building up your confidence first before trying to keep up with the ANZA pack. Coghlan advises it’s best for wannabe cyclists to be able to cycle a reasonable distance of about 15-20 km at above 25 kmh. A willingness to step up to the pace of what the group is doing is essential.

Pack Mentality

If safety is a major concern, then cycling with an organized group of experienced riders can minimize the risks. ANZA Cycling has a well established riding etiquette that means cyclists ride in pairs, move deliberately and predictably, and maintain open communication through hand signals and calling.

Contrary to popular belief, Coghlan maintains that road cycling in Singapore is pretty safe. While drivers with little appreciation for bikes might cut cyclists off using silly behavior, most motorists are not trying to harm cyclists, and the traffic tends to move at a slower speed than in many other countries.

ANZA Cycling members pay $110 annually to gain discounts at shops and attend club events for free. But those of us less willing to commit are still welcome along for the morning rides. You’ll have to be an early bird though: Rides typically start between 5:30am and 7:30am.

Spinning Around

No space for your bike at the office? Now there’s no room for excuses for not commuting to and from work by riding. Foldable bikes are well established in the market, so bulky equipment is no longer an obstacle. Speedmatrix (25 Jalan Mas Puteh, 6775-7133) sells Dahon bikes, foldable bikes designed in the US. Raise your eyebrows in skepticism, but these are impressive. The base product, the Speed D7 ($679), weighs only 12 kg, has seven gears and can be closed in four easy moves. It’s so small you can fit it into a suitcase to take overseas, and has been approved for travel on the MRT. Options include a built-in pump in the seat shaft, a specially designed carrier bag and, get this, an iPod charger.

But if you’re too old school to use a foldable bike, then The Bike Boutique (71 Tras St., 6298-9528) has bike storage facilities and showers ($10 daily or $150 per month shower and storage; $100 per month storage only; $50 per month shower only), so you can cycle first and then clean up before heading for the office. Towels are provided to minimize your load, and there’s a lounge area where you can buy drinks and chill out with other exercise freaks. The store is open six days a week.

Prescribed Relaxation
Yoga giant True has just opened True Spa (Tower A, 16/F Ngee Ann City, 391 Orchard Rd., 6732-9555) and True ’Est (Tower A, 16/F Ngee Ann City, 391 Orchard Rd., 6235-0990). Located side by side, clients can blend the luxury of spa facilities at True Spa with their aesthetic treatments at True ’Est, by booking appointments before or after. Spa services are extensive: There is a large manicure and pedicure area plus 15 massage rooms, 10 facial rooms and three VIP suites.

In a further blending of the spa industry with the health and wellness industry, Kinesis Physio and Rehab (#08-01 Novena Square Shopping Mall, 238 Thomson Rd., 6352-2252) is a physiotherapy center housed in the exclusive St. Gregory flagship branch. Physiotherapists can supervise exercises and therapy with patients in the surrounds of a spa environment using St. Gregory’s facilities. In these kinds of relaxing environs, rehabilitative work doesn’t have to seem such a chore and might even be a bit soothing. Kinesis has also recently opened a new outlet at Pilates Bodyworks (#19-01 Commerce Point, 3 Phillip St., 6538-8922).

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