Around 50-60 years ago the city was dotted with old-school restaurants run by Hainanese cooks who’d received their training under European chefs. The resulting cuisine turned out to be a hugely popular blend of Thai and Western dishes given a distinctly Chinese twist

While their popularity has dimmed substantially (and many have closed down completely), there are still a few of these legendary cookshops around. BK tracks down the best of these to sample their unique flavors and to drink in their special history.

Meng Lee

Located right next to Silpakorn University, this charming restaurant is popular with former students, with lots of their art work adorning the walls. Also known as Meng Lee Na Phra Lan, this old-school institution is perhaps best known for its slightly scary service (to be fair, we’ve sometimes found them to be perfectly pleasant, too). The food is superb, though, so we say put aside any fears and discover why many rank this place their number one cookshop. Try classic dishes like the tomyam kha moo, stir-fried liver and stir-fried kale—dependably divine.
Next to Silpakorn University, Na Phra Lan Rd., Open Mon-Fri 11am-7pm

Florida Hotel Restaurant

Florida has been in operation since 1968 and way back then, they were boasting about their Hainanese cook who had previously worked for King Rama V’s farang chef. Although similar to the other cookshops listed here, this place does have the distinction of being located in the slightly haunted-looking but wonderfully retro Florida Hotel. Still, the food remains top notch with must-tries including the BBQ spare ribs (B235), which have a distinctly Asian taste and are really fall-off-the-bone tender, and the Thai-Chinese dishes like the wonderfully well-balanced nuea pad nammun hoy (beef in oyster sauce, B175).
43 Phayathai Rd., 02-247-0991. BTS Phayathai. Open daily 7am-11:30pm

Chairoj

Like the other venues listed, Chairoj has pedigree—some 70 years under its belt, as you can tell from the pale green walls and vintage wooden furniture. The brief but lip-smacking menu includes the legendary pla krapong tod rad prik (fried seabass with chili and garlic, B80); the fish is fluffy inside yet wonderfully crisp outside, perfectly demonstrating the amazing technique in the kitchen. Also don’t miss the fragrant tomyam (B80) and tender pork steak (B80) just make sure you get there before 7:30pm as they can sometimes close early.
467/25 Phyathai Rd. (next to Phyathai Dental Group), 02-354-4090. BTS Phayathai. Open Mon- Sat 11am-8pm

Silom Restaurant

The closure of the original Silom branch left many customers in shock, but fortunately this canteen-like cookshop is soon-to-open in a new location out at Talingchan. Despite the trek, we’ll definitely be heading out to the place that for 60 years has been serving fusion dishes, long before the term “fusion” was coined in the West. When you get there opt for one of the four recommended specialties: oxtail stew, shrimp salad, pork chops and stir-fried fish maw. Prices start from B100.
7/4 Soi Boromratchachonnanee Soi 59, 087-072-2944

Foo Mui Kee

Set in a narrow, non-descript soi that runs between Surawong and Silom, the open-fronted Foo Mui Kee is a simple yet charming place. It’s filled with character and an almost museum-like air thanks to the upright wooden pews, gorgeous vintage fans and the groups of Chinese aunts and uncles that come here to eat daily. The food is equally authentic. For over 80 years, Foo Mui Kee has been serving up an intriguing blend of well-known Western recipes, cooked with a distinctly Chinese influence. Try the delicious beef fillet salad (B140/280): tender slices of beef on a seemingly dull-looking salad that’s given a delightfully refreshing lift by their traditional homemade lime, sugar and vinegar-laden dressing. Also don’t go without the moreish poo cha (B80/160), a wonderful mix of crab, egg, mince, onions and more grilled in a crab shell.
10-12 Prachum Rd., 02-234-6648. Open daily 11am-9pm

Thong Lee

There are only five tables, covered in garish plastic tablecloths. Drop by on a warm day, and you’ll sweat through the entire meal due to the absence of air-con, and just three ceiling fans swirling overhead. However, despite the humble surroundings, Thong Lee has been feeding devoted crowds for more than 60 years, and has recieved numerous accolades in local and international publications. Every dish (B70-100) is delicious and tastes homemade, just like a Thai-Chinese grandma would cook. Don’t miss the mee krob (crispy noodles with pork and shrimp), Hainanese fried chicken and muu pad nam lieb (stir-fried minced pork with Chinese olives).
64/3, Sukhumvit Soi 20, 02-258-1983, 02-259-4649. Open daily 9am-8pm (closes every third Sun of the month)

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Celebrate Hari Raya Puasa (Aug 8) and end the month-long fast at these all-you-can-eat joints.

Aquamarine

The sprawling restaurant flows quite well, with nautical cues matched with shiny surfaces and IKEA-like tables and chairs.

Carousel

Though the international buffet selection is not the most comprehensive we’ve had, there’s a little bit of everything at the seven stations.

Kintamani Indonesian Restaurant

This is one of Singapore's long standing Indonesian restaurants.

Straits Kitchen

Service was top-notch, with friendly wait staff who readily offered to help customers with too many plates on their hands.

Tiffany Cafe and Restaurant

This Halal-certified café-restaurant offers high quality dishes at affordable prices.

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Long dismissed as sugary and girly, moscato’s really coming into its own. Pearl Pillaert, co-founder of wine bar Napoleon, says “It’s possible that people have had wine that is not elegantly made, or still too young, so it has too much residual sugar. But really moscato is refreshing and ideal for Singapore’s warm climate.” Still not convinced? We’ve picked three different ways to swig the versatile drink.

Innocent Bystander Moscato

Have this pretty pink bottle as an aperitif. Bruce Chapman, managing director at gourmet food store The Providore says, “Moscato is not a ‘sweet’ wine, that’s a big misconception. It is usually drunk pre-dinner or at brunch rather than as a traditional dessert wine, though it does go with desserts. This one is a great alternative to Champagne before dinner and compliments strong spicy flavors, so it goes really well with local food.”
$19.50 at the The Providore

Michele Chiarlo Nivole Moscato D’Asti

It’s a little predictable, but we’d be remiss not to provide a pairing with dessert. Gerald Lu, head sommelier at Praelum says, “I most often recommend having this moscato—which tastes of peaches, nectarines and white flowers—with our lime pie. The sweetness of the wine balances the sour pie.”
From $35/half bottle at Praelum Wine Bistro

Red Autumn

For something a little more inventive, swig moscato in this cool cocktail, a combination of Zonin moscato, raspberry puree and lime juice. Pillaert says, ”Moscato’s still mostly ordered by ladies. So we created this interesting cocktail to try and familiarize more people with it. I think the wine’s effervescence and elegant aromas of peach go very well with our raspberry mix."
$16 at Napoleon

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Something’s Brewing
Dempsey’s pretty happening these days, with new bars Jiu Zhuang, The Green Door and Chameleon opening over the last three month and Taphouse (18E Dempsey Hill), by the good people behind Brewerkz, scheduled to open later this month. It will be a smaller, cozier joint compared to their other outlets, and will boast additional pizza and burger options previously unavailable in their menu. There will also be six craft beers on tap, alongside the group’s full selection of imported beers and all of their own bottled and mini-keg styles. “When the opportunity to move into Dempsey came up, we thought that the balance of local and western heritage of the area reflected well with our own vision of ourselves,” says Marketing Manager Paulina Hatta. “As the third microbrewery on the scene—Tawandang is kitty-corner and Red Dot is down the road—Dempsey is no stranger to craft beer, but we think that Taphouse will bring something new to the table. It will be reminiscent of small-town watering holes that so many of us are familiar with—from Portland to Boulder to Brooklyn—combined with a firm nod to the Singaporean history of our well-known homegrown brand.”

For Art Sake’s
Not quite a new addition, but a revamp that we’re also looking forward to is The Butter Factory’s Art Bar, formerly Fash. Not that the parties in Fash have been anything less than zany, but fashionable duo and owners Bobby Luo and Ritz Lim have decided to refresh the space anyways.” Compared to Fash , the Art Bar is definitely a warmer, cozier space,” says Luo. Besides the interior, it will have more focus on the four elements that matter to us: Music, Art & Design, Fashion and Bar Culture. Another two things that separate Art Bar from Fash—there will be no cover charge (except for guest DJ nights and special events), and our exclusive signature cocktails menu prepared by famed mixologist Ethan Leslie Leong from Maison Ikkoku.” Great drinks aside, partygoers can also look forward to new interiors as well, from furniture to wall fixtures and even bill folders, themed around the concept of “Art Upcycling”. Plus, there will also be specially-commissioned artworks by both local and international artists that will grace its walls over the upcoming months.

Fashion Flicks Forward
Following a hiatus last year, The Singapore Fashion Film Festival will return Oct 23-27 across various venues. Although the lineup of the main films is unconfirmed, each will be preceded by a short film screening of the local fashion scene, currently in the works by festival organizer Kevin Seah (of Kevin Seah Bespoke fame) alongside a team of fashion designers, models, choreographers and bloggers. There will also be two short films in the program, curated by the National Museum of Singapore, and fringe events including presentations and seminars by designers Eymeric Francois and Wykidd Song, and photographer Olivier Henry. Stay tuned for more info.

 

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The famed Crazy Horse from Paris is long gone, but cabaret nights are still mean business at these entertaining nightspots.

Out Bar
It may be small when it comes to floor space, but this new gay bar packs a punch with ritzy burlesque-drag performances happening every first Friday of the month. To keep the pre-party spirits up, happy hour starts from 5-9pm daily, with two beers at $14 nett and house red or white wines at $8 nett daily. Each cabaret night has a different theme to keep things fresh (the last shindig was Pink Out, in line with Pink Dot 2013) and you can keep updated of their oh-so-fabulous shows via their Facebook page.

Shanghai Dolly
The modern, chinoserie-chic aesthetic with dark interiors befits this sizable two-story club, which consists of a lobby bar, a restaurant, a cozy piano bar and a 400-capacity theater hall where artists, musicians and dancers from Singapore, Hong Kong, Malaysia and China take to the stage every night. Even if you don’t care for the shows, Shanghai Dolly’s happy hour is one of the best in the area with 50% off glasses, jugs, buckets and shooters from 6 to 10pm daily. Plus, its restaurant Dolly Kitchen serves supper till 4am to fuel you up post-party.

Tawandang Microbrewery
Launched just last year, Tawandang Microbrewery’s theater concept features a variety of Broadway-style shows (Tue-Sun, 7:30pm onwards), ranging from Thai cultural dances and classical ballet to more contemporary acts. Knock back freshly-brewed German beers—lager, weizen and dunkel—while catching up to eight different performances on any given night. And they’re rather entertaining: shows accompanied by props, light and full-on theatrics, played to international Chinese, English and Thai hit songs.

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Latin flavors are hot right now. Chin Hui Wen investigates what’s sparked the Mexican food trend in SIngapore.

Just a few years ago, it was near impossible to find good Mexican grub in Singapore. Only one or two spots in town served it, like stalwart restaurant Cha Cha Cha—which opened in 1990—at expat enclave Holland Village, followed by Cafe Iguana. More recently, Spruce even launched a short-lived taco truck Spruce Taqueria at Phoenix Park. But a recent influx of new eateries has made the cuisine, if not exactly ubiquitous, then really trendy all over the city. And these joints don’t just play it safe: They provide vibrant flavors, cool vibes and—increasingly—more exotic and authentic recipes.

Times a-Changin’
Jonathan Yang, founder of Californian-Mexican burrito joint Muchachos says, “Well-made Mexican food is something that this country has been curiously lacking for the longest time. If you ask me, the interest has always been there, it just went largely unsatisfied.”

And really, Mexican flavors are not as far off from local tastes as it might initially seem. Chef-owner at off-Boat Quay eatery El Rocho’s Marcus Loh adds, “People here are also starting to identify similarities in ingredients—tomatoes, cilantro, jicama, chilli and onions—and styles of cooking between Mexican cuisine and Southeast Asian cuisine.”

All Sexed Up
Besides, Mexican newbies have made the cuisine look plain cool. Min Chan, proprietor of Asian-Mexican eatery Pistola says, “The new Mexican places I have been to—Lucha Loco, Mex Out and Muchachos—are all sexy and trendy.”

For sure, the latest Mexican eateries tend to share an edgy urban vibe with exposed lighting and raw unfinished concrete floors. Also, gone are the tacky mariachi bands and folk tunes favored by old school Latin joints. Now it’s cool jams—we’re partial to Pistola’s track of 90s’ rock—creating the perfect vibe to chow down on their fresh take on Latin fare. No longer bogged down by American-style ingredients like bulk cheese and sour cream, the food’s creative, appealing and light enough that you can still go out and party after a meal.

More Tongue
What’s more, the new breed of Mexican chefs is ready to push local palates. Ajay Parag, one of the founders of popular Mexican spot Lucha Loco, wants to serve grasshoppers (a popular Mexican street snack), though he does worry that sourcing will be a challenge and it might not be well received. And Loh, who already has an ox tongue taco on the menu at El Rocho’s, says, “I’d love to have more offal on the menu, like a good old tripas taco.”

Yang too would like to offer more off cuts at Muchachos and explains, “Lengua, or beef tongue, for burrito or taco aficionados in the know, is a highly prized menu offering. I plan to offer it as a seasonal or promotional item if I get enough requests.”

Money Talks
The only thing holding back Mexican food now is the price of ingredients. Chan says, “Pricing on everything—from hot sauce to tortillas—here makes it difficult for restaurants to offer the cuisine at price points many of our guests are used to. For Mexican food to take off, it really needs to become more wallet friendly!”

Yang agrees, “Mexican food should be cheap, grubby, greasy, and tasty street cart fare.” Prices are something that he—like many new Latin food purveyors—is trying to change.

A burrito at Muchachos goes for just $12 (and you can get a smaller Burritino for $9) and a burrito at Mex Out costs $10, while a chicken or beef taco will set you back only $7 at El Rocho’s.  

“Low reasonable prices were a hard point for me. I remember balking when I found myself having to pay anywhere from $17-23 for bad burritos in this country, so now that I’m on the other side of the counter, I can finally do something about it.”

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We pit four favorite music streaming sites against each other for affordability, mobile reliability and variety.

Deezer √√√
What: First started as Blogmusik in 2006, this high-traffic French stalwart boasts over four million premium subscribers worldwide.
Pros: It overshadows Spotify (its strongest competitor) with a bigger music library and makes managing music collections easy by letting you import your own songs—especially good for those who like their tracks all in one place.
Cons: Sound quality and free versions aren’t the best around (though they promise up to 320kb/s when you pay). As a web-based player, its interface—as on the home page, for example—is cluttered with things like recommendations and Facebook activities.
Mobile access: Available as an app on all mobile devices (iOS, Android, Windows 8 and Blackberry).
Price: Free (Discovery), $5.99 (Premium), $9.90 (Premium+).

Grooveshark √√√√
What: The controversial US-based streaming service launched in 2007, runs on user-generated content with over 12 million active users.
Pros: When it comes to convenience and usability, Grooveshark is hard to beat. There’s no registration, no app download required, and you can tune in anywhere on your desktop, and mobile from devices for as long as you like without paying a single cent. Ads aren’t intrusive, either (which makes upgrading rather pointless with its scant benefits).
Cons: Its free-to-upload, user-driven music database may be all-encompassing (an indie music paradise really), but problems are rife: song titles and audio quality are inconsistent, plus there are legal issues that the company grapples with every now and then due to copyright infringement (also why they’re not accepted in the App Store).
Mobile access: Available via mobile web browsers. Android and iOS apps are only available for premium account holders.
Price: Free (ad supported), US$9/month (ad free).

Spotify √√√√
What: The award-winning music service and app is the most successful of its kind, catering to over 24 million active users.
Pros: Unlike some products whose free versions are undesirable or worse, non-existent, Spotify Free’s pretty great. We’d pay for a Spotify Premium account though—it gets your music library on mobile devices and lets you download music you can listen to offline. Also, Spotify’s ecosystem is to-die-for— a host of their self-made apps makes the user interface friendlier and more interesting, plus it’s its own social media platform.
Cons: You can find obscure stuff like Japanese avant-garde electronica on here, but only karaoke versions of ‘90s pop? Weird.
Mobile access: Available as an app on iPhone, iPad, as well as Android mobile and tablet.
Price: Free, $4.99 (unlimited account), $9.99 (premium).

This is My Jam √√
What: Pick a song that’s your current “Jam”—a track you just can’t stop listening to—and post it on a customizable page. Write a couple of words for it—mention fellow Jammers and add hashtags if you wish—plus pick color combinations that convey the song best, and you’re done.
Pros: It doesn’t look like much, but sharing your emotions with what’s probably a very impressionable group of people using just one song is pretty addictive.
Cons: We’re not sure how legal this is—you can put up original songs as your Jams, but you can also paste Vimeo and YouTube links in. Plus, This is My Jam’s still quite underground, so you’re probably going to be following more strangers than friends for now. Get the This is My Jam for Spotify app to extend your reach.
Mobile access: Available via web on desktop and laptop browsers, as well as the iPhone, iPad and iPod Touch.
Price: Free.

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Who says Singapore doesn’t produce any foodstuff? Here are a range of places to order up everything from home-grown lobster to craft beer.

Beer
Jungle Beer Brewery
A range of local beers like the English pale ale, Kiasu stout and tropical wheat beer with guava and soursop are produced at the Singapore brewery and sold at specialist retailers like Cut the Mustard.

Frog

Jurong Frog Farm
Buy whole frogs ($12/500g), frog legs ($15/500g) and frog products like hashima ($18.50) online at their website.

Seafood

Changi Fishery
They offer wild-caught fish like seabass ($18/kg) and red snapper ($20/kg), plus lobster (from $65/kg), clams ($10/kg) and green mussels ($8/kg). Buy online at the website.

Soy Sauce

Kwong Woh Hing
This Chinese condiment producer is most famous for brewing light soy sauce (from $4.80) and dark soy sauce (from $5.30). But they also carry plum sauce ($3.50), soybean paste ($3.10) and a range of drinking vinegars in flavors like apple ($33) and black grape ($33). Buy online at the website.

Tortillas
La Mexicana

You can order up the flatbreads at their restaurants as well as retailers like Belmonte Latin Foods from $5 for a pack of corn tortillas. 

Vegetables
Quanfa Organics
Get green vegetables like sweet potato leaves ($2.50/300g) and spinach ($4.50/250g), plus herbs such as lemongrass ($2.50/150g) and sweet basil ($2.50/40g). Order boxes (minimum order $50) from the website.

 

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Make the most of summer’s bounty at these bakeries and cafes offering fruit-filled pastries.

Baker & Cook
The apple tart, which is topped with a pretty fan of brûléed apple slices, is cinnamon-y and comforting.

Cedele
At this dessert specialist, the apple blueberry crumble and cherry apple pies are firm favorites.

Cocotte
The citron tart at this French restaurant's new pastry counter is an elegant fruity treat.

Fruit Paradise
Creamy confections topped with fresh fruit draw crowds to this Japanese dessert maker.

Pies & Coffee
This pie specialist offers a mean open face apple pie.

Windowsill Pies
Pies such as pumpkin, s'mores and a rocking lime coconut pie spiked with vodka jelly are available here.

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