While their popularity has dimmed substantially (and many have closed down completely), there are still a few of these legendary cookshops around. BK tracks down the best of these to sample their unique flavors and to drink in their special history.
Located right next to Silpakorn University, this charming restaurant is popular with former students, with lots of their art work adorning the walls. Also known as Meng Lee Na Phra Lan, this old-school institution is perhaps best known for its slightly scary service (to be fair, we’ve sometimes found them to be perfectly pleasant, too). The food is superb, though, so we say put aside any fears and discover why many rank this place their number one cookshop. Try classic dishes like the tomyam kha moo, stir-fried liver and stir-fried kale—dependably divine.
Next to Silpakorn University, Na Phra Lan Rd., Open Mon-Fri 11am-7pm
Florida has been in operation since 1968 and way back then, they were boasting about their Hainanese cook who had previously worked for King Rama V’s farang chef. Although similar to the other cookshops listed here, this place does have the distinction of being located in the slightly haunted-looking but wonderfully retro Florida Hotel. Still, the food remains top notch with must-tries including the BBQ spare ribs (B235), which have a distinctly Asian taste and are really fall-off-the-bone tender, and the Thai-Chinese dishes like the wonderfully well-balanced nuea pad nammun hoy (beef in oyster sauce, B175).
43 Phayathai Rd., 02-247-0991. BTS Phayathai. Open daily 7am-11:30pm
Like the other venues listed, Chairoj has pedigree—some 70 years under its belt, as you can tell from the pale green walls and vintage wooden furniture. The brief but lip-smacking menu includes the legendary pla krapong tod rad prik (fried seabass with chili and garlic, B80); the fish is fluffy inside yet wonderfully crisp outside, perfectly demonstrating the amazing technique in the kitchen. Also don’t miss the fragrant tomyam (B80) and tender pork steak (B80) just make sure you get there before 7:30pm as they can sometimes close early.
467/25 Phyathai Rd. (next to Phyathai Dental Group), 02-354-4090. BTS Phayathai. Open Mon- Sat 11am-8pm
The closure of the original Silom branch left many customers in shock, but fortunately this canteen-like cookshop is soon-to-open in a new location out at Talingchan. Despite the trek, we’ll definitely be heading out to the place that for 60 years has been serving fusion dishes, long before the term “fusion” was coined in the West. When you get there opt for one of the four recommended specialties: oxtail stew, shrimp salad, pork chops and stir-fried fish maw. Prices start from B100.
7/4 Soi Boromratchachonnanee Soi 59, 087-072-2944
Set in a narrow, non-descript soi that runs between Surawong and Silom, the open-fronted Foo Mui Kee is a simple yet charming place. It’s filled with character and an almost museum-like air thanks to the upright wooden pews, gorgeous vintage fans and the groups of Chinese aunts and uncles that come here to eat daily. The food is equally authentic. For over 80 years, Foo Mui Kee has been serving up an intriguing blend of well-known Western recipes, cooked with a distinctly Chinese influence. Try the delicious beef fillet salad (B140/280): tender slices of beef on a seemingly dull-looking salad that’s given a delightfully refreshing lift by their traditional homemade lime, sugar and vinegar-laden dressing. Also don’t go without the moreish poo cha (B80/160), a wonderful mix of crab, egg, mince, onions and more grilled in a crab shell.
10-12 Prachum Rd., 02-234-6648. Open daily 11am-9pm
There are only five tables, covered in garish plastic tablecloths. Drop by on a warm day, and you’ll sweat through the entire meal due to the absence of air-con, and just three ceiling fans swirling overhead. However, despite the humble surroundings, Thong Lee has been feeding devoted crowds for more than 60 years, and has recieved numerous accolades in local and international publications. Every dish (B70-100) is delicious and tastes homemade, just like a Thai-Chinese grandma would cook. Don’t miss the mee krob (crispy noodles with pork and shrimp), Hainanese fried chicken and muu pad nam lieb (stir-fried minced pork with Chinese olives).
64/3, Sukhumvit Soi 20, 02-258-1983, 02-259-4649. Open daily 9am-8pm (closes every third Sun of the month)
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