This autumn on the catwalks of Rome, Milan and London the world’s top designers have been moving away from the feminine lines and flamboyant dresses of the past few seasons towards a stronger, more androgynous look. Dubbed Tomboy style, this new craze is for tailored suits, skinny trousers, dress shirts and fitted jackets all with a masculine edge. The clamor for manly clothing is proving so popular that big fashion names such as Jean Paul Gautier and Paul Smith are recalling their men’s ranges for women’s sizes. For once Thailand, not always known for leading the fashion world, might actually be ahead of the game. It seems that the Tomboy look is already alive and well in Bangkok thanks to small fashion label Damen.
Damen are designers Meena Apiradee Piankusol and Satawat Honghin, who met while doing a textile science course at Kasetsart University. As part of their degree they were asked to complete a project to identify a target market that wasn’t catered for and design a collection to appeal to their specific needs. Their research revealed that there was nothing out there aimed at those members of Thailand’s lesbian community who liked to dress a little more male than most. The Damen line of Tomboy clothing was the result.
Their first collection, with its emphasis on a look that the pair says is “manly, sporty but still attractive,” proved a remarkable success. As well as generating a positive buzz among their target market, they found it also appealed to other sections of Bangkok’s fashion aficionados.
“We’ve got customers who are gay guys, straight women and even straight men,” says Meena. “I think it’s proved popular because these clothes are so wearable and they suit so many types of people and can be worn in different situations.”
They describe their first collection as “groomed but a bit naughty,” featuring as it does somber suits and sharp trousers combined with collared shirts imbued with subtle sixties details and splashes of color. Their recently released second range titled “Tomboys and Their Toys” takes a more fun and sporty feel bringing in bright pastel knitwear and three quarter length shorts along with a tongue in cheek toys motif.
For those of you who may be thinking that Tomboy style is just men’s clothes for women, think again. Damen stress that while their range is based on classic menswear, it is given a distinctive twist through their own unique touches. Details such as intentionally lopsided shirts and toy themed necklaces reinforce the concept that this is a range of clothing for people who think of themselves as slightly different from mainstream society.
“We have tried to maintain what they [tomboys] want, but at the same time we have added little details that show the uniqueness of the people who wear it,” says Satawat.
What is so great about the Tomboy look is its flexibility. It can be easily adapted to suit your social calendar. Go for a fitted jacket with a slim fit shirt and tie for the office or for a bright polo shirt and shorts for that big night out. This is clothing that can be mixed and matched so you don’t have to go out and buy a complete new outfit.
After three shows and two collections, Meena and Satawat are unsure of where their newfound success will be taking them, but even if Damen aren’t still around next year, you can guarantee that the Tomboy look will be appearing on a soi near you very soon.
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