Since its inauguration in 1932 on the occasion of the 150th anniversary of the Rattanakosin era, Rama 1 Memorial Bridge (a.k.a. Sapan Poot) has been one of the most popular trading centers in town. By day, the bridge is but a link between Phranakorn and Thonburi, but when night falls, it turns into a busy, packed marketplace where you can find all kinds of clothes from secondhand jeans to hip T-shirts and even get your portrait, a tattoo or a piercing.

Being an early bird is not a good idea here. Most stalls open around 7pm and peak time doesn’t start until 9pm or a bit earlier on Fridays and Saturdays. The market stays packed with people as late as 1-2am. Be warned that the market is closed every Monday.

There are many buses that stop there or nearby, but a cab is still the best option if you are not in the mood for a little stroll. Starting at the Phranakorn end of the bridge, you’ll find a heap of stalls along both sides of the street, one of which deserves special mention. Facing the river, turn left, then walk for 200 meters and you’ll find it on your left. There lie T-shirts with catchy quotes usually found on the back of trucks (B100, and cheaper if you know how to bargain). We loved the “Rakna Dek-ngow” one.

From there, go straight to the guitar shop (08-1711-9554) that not only sells axes (both acoustic and electric at B790-890) but also harmonicas (B120-220) and guitar strings, and provides guitar repair services. Go on for about 100 meters and you’ll see a junction on your left where Sapan Poot River Market has recently opened. This clean and wide building gives off a great impression but it turns out that the three-story plaza is just too new. The first floor is literally empty while all the sellers on the second floor abandon their shops to watch soaps on a TV near the landing. Seems working people, students and dek naew alike enjoy street-side secondhand stuff more.

In front of the plaza, there are lots of secondhand shoes and bags but also some new things. One interesting stall sells brand new authentic Converse All Stars at cheaper rates than department stores. Prices are B750-1,990, depending on the style.

Like Chatuchak, cute trinkets can be found, too. Stroll down the road and take a tour of the back rows where you’ll find some nice pieces like at Tien Hom Tee Sud Nai Lok (08-1692-7713) that sells fragrant candles in handmade pots (B59 and B120). One stall nearby sells handmade key chains (08-9151-1430/-7, B39 and B59). And another has numerous styles of dog clothing (08-7925-5593), with prices ranging from B50-550.

Hungry? Take a short break after shopping and walk back to the junction. Kai Pla Mueg Naam Jim Rod Ded’s (08-4909-7423) fried squid eggs’ foamy sauce is truly delicious (B20-30). To refresh yourself, keep an eye out for passing trolleys. You may see Chaoguay Lanyamo, a cart stocked with glasses of Thai-style black jelly on ice.

Do’s & Don’t’s

Do: Bargain. It’s a must.

Don’t: Go alone. It’s a night market, you could get pickpocketed at any time, or even buy the wrong size.

Do: Wear light clothes, take a fan and
carry a bottle of water. It’s hot.

Don’t: Think about taking a bus to Thonburi side and walk here to save some money. It’s a hassle and not worth it.

Do: Check before you buy. Some goods may be broken, tainted or irreparably ugly.

Don’t: Go on Monday. It’s closed!