Bangkok is a city blessed with neighborhoods dedicated to a single craft or product, from teak furniture to football jerseys. Can they compete with the growing mall invasion and retain their customer base?

Prachanaruemit

Located in the northern part of the city and dubbed “The Road of Wood,” this little soi is packed with shop after shop selling small, sculpted pieces and gorgeous teak furniture.

Daeng Meeyod, 63, Daeng Kan Chang owner

When did you open shop?
Nearly 30 years ago. I learned how to make chairs from my older brother who has the shop next door. His shop was the first furniture store in this soi. The other shops popped up about 15-20 years ago after other craftsmen learned our techniques.
Is the competition a problem?
Not at all. We have a rule to let customers pick the shop. We even share work sometimes when we can’t deliver a big furniture order on time.
How do you stand out?
Our work is all handmade, very detailed and made to the highest standards. We’re actually the most expensive, but we’re the best. Our customers are furniture companies who bring our work to sell at fairs or to export.
Who will take over after you?
We don’t know. Our children all work elsewhere.
Daeng Kan Chang. 107 Soi Prachanaruemit, Krungthep-Nonthaburi Rd, 02-586-7856, 081-868-3660.

Rattana Komrattanapanya, 33, Kom Kan Chang owner

Have you always worked here?
No, I just came back to help my parents five years ago. I used to work as a salesperson, but my parents needed someone to take care of the shop as they got older.
Have you ever considered doing something else?
Not really. My parents opened this shop 20 years ago, doing built-in furniture. But that wasn’t doing too well, so we decided to change our display two years ago to things like vintage-looking mirrors or cute mailboxes. It’s now much better. People ask about the show items and sometimes they end up ordering built-in furniture, too.
How’s business?
The hardest part is finding the workers. It’s hard to find skilled workers for the most delicate, one-of-a-kind jobs that some customers order.
Kom Kan Chang. 327 Soi Prachanaruemit, Krungthep-Nonthaburi Rd, 086-049-6688, 089-208-3286.

Sutthiwan Pholyama, 30, craftswoman at Aphichat Carving

How long have you been working here?
About 10 years. I used to work at 7-Eleven but I quit after I got married. My husband who is a wood carver asked me to work with his boss who owns this carving shop. I had to practice carving for many years and now I can work on some small pieces. We sell everything from small decorative items to giant teak doors.
Is it hard work for a woman?
Not for me. I love this job. I’m independent. I just wait for the order and work at the shop, but my bosses they’re not at the shop all the time. They will come from Ayutthaya to deliver stuff and take orders. They are also kind and not picky. I can go home any time I want.
How much do you earn?
I started at B3,500 but now I can earn B8,000–B10,000 a month as my skills have improved.
Aphichat Carving Shop. 881 Soi Prachanaruemit, Krungthep-Nonthaburi Rd, 02-587-1489, 081-920-2925.

National Stadium

With shop after shop selling seemingly indentical football jerseys and trophies, the area behind Chulalongkorn University and Rajamnagkla National Stadium is a football fanatic’s idea of heaven.

Ekkachai Jarueksilp, 40, Yod Yium Sport Inter owner

How old is your shop?
About 60 years. My parents opened this store to sell football shoes under our own brand “Yod Yium,” as well as selling international makes like Adidas or Nike. We were the third Thai football boot brand. But as you know, Thai people value inter brands more than local ones, so we had to stop our production to focus on selling those.
Does the Thai Premier League (TPL) help business?
Of course. Kids need to buy new shoes to practice to make a good junior team, while more adults than ever are playing football as a hobby. .
How’s business?
Our lease is up for renewal this year, so we don’t know when Chulalongkorn is going to take the land back. It’s kind of sad that developers tear down old communities instead of trying to preserve them.
Yod Yium Sport Inter. 833 Chula Soi 2, Rama 1 Rd. (next to National Stadium), 02-214-2213, 02-612-3560.

Sudjai Srilakulpanich, 51, Big Sport owner

When did you open this shop?
About 10 years ago, I quit my job as a cashier. Our grannies were moving out from here, so I decided to buy it from them and open a small business as a part-time job. I knew nothing about sports, but my customers taught me everything. They will update us about what team is hot, so I will make shirts to match the demand.
Is the competition good or bad for business?
I think it’s good for us. Our reputation brings people here. They can choose the shop that they like. For us, we always get jobs from old clients because we sell cheap and we’re honest about the quality. If there are flawed-products in the pack of shirts, we won’t charge them.
Has the TPL brought in more business?
Not really, because our clients are the same people. Those who like TPL teams are also fans of foreign football teams.
831 Chula Soi 2, Rama 1 Rd. (next to National Stadium), 02-214-1011, 081-695-4498.

Kanchanee Malakanok, Parrot Sporting owner

When did you open this shop?
We opened this shop 30 years ago to sell sportswear. Everyone knows about this area and that we sell sports stuff here. This is where people go when looking for anything related to sports.
How do you compete with malls?
Price. We sell football boots for less than other places. And service, as we have lots of staff to take care of customers.
Is the TPL good for business?
Of course. They always come to buy jerseys from the top football club before the start of the season. But when sales really go up is when we have big football events like the World Cup or European Championships.
How’s business?
We don’t know what our future will be. Chulalongkorn didn’t tell us their plan for this neighborhood. The National Stadium area will be less colorful if it doesn’t have shops like ours.
Parrot Sporting Goods. 847/4 Rama 1 Rd. (next to National Stadium), 02-214-1305, 02-612-3443.

Mahachai Road

This neighborhood, founded nearly a hundred years ago, is located next to what was one of the first prisons of the Rattanakosin Era. It used to be a dense and busy market famed for cloth and baskets made by inmates in the prison. But after the prison moved, business slowed down. Today, there are only three shops left, but they still attract people who want to buy some unique gifts that you can’t find in luxury malls.

Dararat Yingpaitool, 55, Suriya Panich owner.

How old is your shop?
More than 50 years old. My parents opened it to sell baskets and rattan furniture. I started taking care of it about 20-30 years ago after my parents got too old. I had to quit my job as a teacher.
How’s business?
It’s not as good as it used to be. And it was even worse during the floods last year. People weren’t buying, the factory wasn’t producing. But we can survive as long as we don’t spend too much money. The time when we are always busy is New Year, with all the hampers. I’m also worried that the land owner will take the land back because of some new projects, like the MRT or BTS extensions.
Who are your customers?
They are mostly individual home-owners. We don’t get big orders like those from hotels or businesses.
Suriya Panich shop. 380-382 Mahachai Rd., 02-222-5763.

Sunanta Silapattakul, 61, Yuphadee Wanich owner.

How old is your shop?
About 60 years old. My grandfather originally opened it to sell pakaoma [traditional Thai cloth] which was so popular back then. He also knew how to make rattan furniture, and when others saw it, they wanted to buy it, too. So he then decided to start producing it.
Did he teach you?
Yes, I still do some products myself. This is our strong-point as well, because we can do any custom design customers want.
How is business?
It’s hard to find rattan these days.Growing it does not make money like some other industrial crops, such as rubber trees. We now import it from neighboring countries like Indonesia.
Who will take over the shop?
Our children all have good careers in companies. So I’m not sure who will take care over.
Yuphadee Wanich shop. 388,390 Mahachai Rd., 02-221-2411, 02-224-9340.

Charoenrat Road

This bustling road near Wongwianyai is a secret weapon for many young designers seeking affordable-but-quality leather and cloth to create their new collections.

Hathaitip Techatrisorn, 26, M-Plus Shop owner

How long have you worked here?
Just three years. My parents already own a shoe factory, so they always import leather from all over the world, mostly from China. They figured it might be good if we had our own shop. They got me this place, and I quit my job. The first year was tough, but people are starting to know us.
How do you stand out?
Most of our products are imported, so we have items that can’t be found elsewhere, even around here. We have ostrich skin, really high-grade cow hide. And I can guarantee we’re the cheapest.
Who are your customers?
Mostly shop owners or sometimes foreigners who produce shoes or bags.
M-Plus Shop. 220 Charoenrath Road. 02-438-6355.

Supaporn Jiranuthi, 60, Thailikit owner

How long have you worked here?
30 years so far. I first sold only leather, but it wasn’t going well, as more shops opened in the area. So I decided to add bag accessories, like handles and other decorations. It’s better now but it isn’t great.
Who are your customers?
Mostly housewives or hobbyists who love to make their own stuff, like bags or purses. They will come to buy materials and go home to stitch it then come back again to find accessories and handles which we will attach for them. It’s part of our service.
Why do they pick you?
I don’t know. It might be our honest service. I know what they should buy to get the result they want.
Thailikit. 221 Charoenrat Road. 02-438-5315, 081-205-1907.
Winthasit

Winthasit Pornpimolchoke, 39, Wattanaporn Panich owner

How did you start this business?
I inherited this shop from my parents who opened it 20 years ago as they owned a leather bag factory. Our shop kept growing until they had to open more branches in the same area. We now have five shops that my siblings are taking care of it.
What makes you stand out?
We’re probably the biggest seller. We have any type of leather you want: cow, goat, sheep or pig. And our prices are reasonable, starting from B12 for 10 sq centimeters.
How is business?
We should do more to promote this area as the leather market. Not many people know about it.
Wattanaporn Panich. 213 Charoenrat Road. 02-438-3351, 02-438-5591. www.wattanaporn.com

 

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