The buzz: Opening this week, Sartoria by Paulo Airaudo is EA Rooftop’s final foodie gift to Bangkok in 2024. Chef Paulo Airaudo, who has garnered six Michelin stars across 14 restaurants worldwide, has opened a space in Bangkok with one of the coolest open kitchens around, crafting creative Italian fare with Florentine style.

 

The vibe: EA Rooftop doesn’t really do understated—so let’s take the ostentatious entrance as read. The interior, spread across 375-square-meters on the top 56th floor, comes with, as one might expect, some of the best views in the city. But the design is glamorous in the extreme—expect swathes of gold, touches of Tuscany, and, if you have a choice in the matter, request the table right in front of the well-lit open kitchen to watch the artists at work. 

 

 

The food: Prior to the opening of Sartoria, BK got a taste of their truncated menu. The flavors coming via Tuscany have a little splash of Thai and Japanese produce that elevate the Italian fare. The meal kicks off with a delectably savory Jerusalem artichoke pandan with an ice cream flair, followed by a splash of dishes like their red prawn and mortadella, before making a sharp turn into a hamachi, or Japanese amberjack, with a mix of kombu, shiso, and sea grapes. But the star of this particular meal comes in the form of the duck cappelletti. This dish is duck through and through—simple in appearance but a smooth mouthfeel and explosion of creamy duck. This is followed with a complex parsley risotto that’s easy eating but zhuzhed up with a little carabinero prawn, and then it’s a swerve back into Japanese with a splendid alfonsino in a champagne sauce. Their Thai basil flavor in the galangal granita comes with a flakey texture that cold and then slightly savory on the palate, and while this might seem like the sweet end to a unique meal, there’s an apple gelato to finish things off, complete with the chef’s signature balsamic vinegar. 

 

The drinks: While glamor is the watchword for this new venue, to go with the current four-wine options to pair with the elevated Italian, there is a selection of cocktails and a fully stocked bar here. You’ll find plenty of favorites like a classic negroni and Aperol spritz—though the martini game could be upped with some of the proper olives in the kitchen. 

 

Why we’d come back: Obviously, this space is still fresh, so their full menu will be a treat now that it’s landed. In the meantime, EA Rooftop has added yet another space for Bangkok’s fine diners to put on their must-try list.