Arunee Nachalee, 35, is a hairdresser who doesn’t work in a salon or a barbershop. Her workplace is on the side of Khao San Road where she sits on a low stool every day waiting for customers. A profession that is one of the highlights of this hustling-bustling road, Arunee and many of her peers do dreadlocks, hair extension and hair braiding for farangs and Thais night after night.

What is the most popular hairstyle right now?
Now hair extension is very popular among Thais.

How much is it?
Well, a row from left to right of your head is about B500 for long hair. All heads need about five to six rows, so it’s around B2,500.

What is the most expensive hairstyle?
Dreadlocks. If we use real hair to do it, it will take a very long time—and will cost about B7,500. But if we use artificial hair, it’s quicker so it will cost just about B2,000-2,500.

During which periods are you busiest?
It depends, but mostly at the end of each month. The two or three days before Songkran are also very busy days.

What are your working hours?
I sleep during the daytime and work from 4-11pm. If I have customers, I stay longer. Sometimes the municipal police raid the area and I have to run before that. I work on Monday as well. But I have to watch out for municipal police. I set my stand very close to the footpath.

What don’t you like about this job?
Some customers don’t wash their hair before they come, mostly farang. Some haven’t washed their hair for months. Especially the ones who have dreadlocks will tie their hair and leave it like that for ages. When I untie it, I nearly die from the bad smell, but I still have to service them.

Is the money good?
If I can do a head every day, I can make enough for a living. But some days I have no customers at all, though that’s not often.

Is the price for foreigners and Thais the same?
Pretty much the same. Other hairdressers might charge more for foreigners, but I don’t. Foreigners should even pay less, as they most likely have thinner hair than Thais.

Do you come to celebrate Songkran at Khao San every year?
Yes, I do, but this year I will take my daughter to Hua Hin. Last year I came here and there was a lot of fighting. A guy even threw a beer bottle at some others. I was afraid that it would fly my way. So, no more for this year.

What is the main problem working here?
The municipal police, of course. You know, we do an honest job to earn a living, but they keep coming to drive us away. I don’t think it’s fair. And if we can’t escape in time, they will take one or two of our things. Then we have to go to them and pay them to get the things back. If we don’t, they will come troubling us. So we just pay B100 or B200 or whatever.

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