Noontime Noodles
Our favorite soups and stir-fries in Silom.
Thai street food is blessed with many different noodle dishes, and in the business madness of Sala Daeng, the saturation of hungry office workers means that famous stalls selling each of them are readily available—complete with long queues for tables. Here we round up our favorite places where the wait is worth the bowl.
Soi Convent. Open Mon-Sat 6am-2pm
On Soi Convent, on the stretch of sidewalk between the flower shop and the entrance to the Carmelite monastery is a stall that not only packs in the tables, but also packs the sidewalk with patient patrons waiting their turn while ogling the giant bowls of noodles on offer. They do a few dishes, but their highlight, we think, is guay tiew tom yam, and their fixings are high-quality and delicous, including but not limited to moo daeng, fish balls, fried shrimp balls and tofu fish balls.
The price: B30, B35 for special and B40 for extra special.
Approximate wait time: Ten minutes for a table, 15 more for your food. But it’s worth it.
Our tip: Don’t be daunted by the throngs of people waiting for a table. The lady managing tables is a dab hand at keeping track and won’t let anyone cut ahead. Oh, and ask for a boiled egg and extra limes.
Soi Sala Daeng, 081-491-5626. Open Mon-Fri 10am-1:30pm
Situated down an alley ten meters into Soi Sala Daeng, this is a rare duck noodles place in the neighborhood. The soup is murky and savory and their fixings are several cuts of duck, from the lean to the fatty to the chunks of congealed blood. If you’re not into veggies, this is the soup for you. Theirs barely has a few bean sprouts.
The price: B30-40
Approximate wait time: About five minutes.
Our tip: You’re also right next to a very cute, cheap dessert stall, where you can sample some delicious sangkhaya khao niaw (B10).
Sala Daeng Soi 2. Open Mon-Fri 6-9:20am, noon-1:30pm
Turn right out of Central Silom’s back entrance and head down the street to this lauded yen ta fo stall. A single-file row of tables lines the sidewalk and is managed by a moody uncle who’s happy to see you but will slap you down if you try to cut the orderly queue for tables. Their broth is a great balance of garlicky, sweet and sour, and their shrimp and tofu-fish meatballs are varied and fatty. You may also like their rubbery, fermenty dried squid bits.
The price: B40, B45 for special
Approximate wait time: Ten minutes for your table, another 15 for food.
Our tip: Wait on the sidewalk across the street instead of crowding around the tables. Also, go for the special; it’s not that huge, but it’s got all the fixings.
207 Silom Rd., 02-235-1860. Open daily 8am-8pm
This is a Chinese-owned shophouse a few doors away from Central Silom, right next door to yet another shophouse selling bammee moo daeng. You’ll know it from the friendly grandpa sitting outside rolling fresh wontons (and from the sign that warns you against going into the wrong shop). The bowl here is earthy, balanced with a mild, radish-heavy broth.
The price: B35.
Approximate wait time: No more than ten minutes, despite crazy crowds.
Our tip: The yelling can be a bit scary, but everyone’s nice. There’s a lesser-known second floor upstairs with more tables. Get your bah mee moo daeng dry with the broth on the side, so you can take intermittent bites.
47 Sala Daeng Soi 2 (behind Silom Complex), 086-403-0106. Open daily 7am-2.30pm
A street stall in the front yard of an old Thai private residence, this pad Thai stand is run by the longtime housekeeper of the house, whose owner granted her use of the front yard. A smiling but busy woman, she works alone over the wok, expertly dishing out steaming plates of smoky, fresh pad Thai, the secret to which is supposedly the home-made tamarind paste. We love the large table that’s set away from the street, on the actual front porch of the house, but it’s almost always taken.
The price: B30 for pad Thai, B40 for pad Thai with fresh shrimp or squid.
Approximate wait time: Ten minutes for your table, 15 for your food. Don’t forget to order the minute you arrive, even if you’re still standing.
Our tip: Show up early (around 11:30am) or late
(around 1:30pm), or you’ll be waiting forever for a table, and then forever more for the food. Even if you’re squeamish about dried shrimp (what’s wrong with you?), try theirs: they are bigger than usual, very crunchy and not too pungent.
- For our chat with the pad Thai lady
- For more places with spectacular bah mee moo daeng in the city
- For something else around the neighborhood, check out the street eats of Soi Phiphat
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B449 from Wine Connection
A blend of two zesty grapes means this is going to be a refreshing wine with grassy and tropical aromas. The winemarkers promise an easy drinkability, so you should be able to have this just as an aperitif.
BK Tasting: Pale blond color and very citrusy on the nose. Light on the tongue and not too acidic, making it a nice drink on its own. If you do decide to have it with dinner, choose something light, not too saucey.
B499 from Wine Connection
A wine with a modern story: it’s from the Cotes du Gascogne, an oceanside, rainy area, where this grape is a recent introduction. The wine is stored in stainless steel (as opposed to oak), so the fruit flavors should be prominent. It’s “stirred on the lees” for two months, meaning the yeasts are stirred after fermentation, giving creaminess.
BK Tasting: Fruitier and sweeter than the Flamingo Bay. The stirring on the lees makes this Sauv Blanc (uncharacterisically) unacidic. Good for beginners.
B379 from Villa Supermarket
This is a brut, which means that it’s pretty dry (as opposed to sweet). Its Chenin Blanc composition means that it has a relatively high level of acidity, making it a crisp and refreshing but also aromatic wine. The Mont Clair bottle promises to be fruity as well, and the fine mousse (that’s the bubbly foam), will soften the drinking.
BK Tasting: Very Goldilocks: just dry enough, just acidic enough, just bubbly enough. We can’t believe how cheap it is, considering there’s no cheap aftertaste.
B599 from Wine Connection
Along with the tannic, earthy presence of Cabernet Sauvignon, the Solanera is also comprised of indigenous grape Monastrell (known as Mourvedre in France, 65%), which is also bold, and Tintorera (15%), largely used for color. It’s aged in oak for ten months, so the flavors will be big. You should have this with a proper dinner.
BK Tasting: Not for novices, this wine is heavy on the oak and light on the fruit aromas and flavors. More dry than fruity. Pretty macho and good with a steak.
B599 from Villa Supermarket
This is Hardy’s line of wines made to let the natural qualities of the grape shine, so this wine may be a lot more fruity than usual. It’s stored in stainless steel with just a bit of oak later, so there are less woody notes. The boldness of the grape means some spicy, cigar-like notes to balance the fruit.
BK Tasting: Newcomers enjoy the peppery, spicy flavors of Cabernet without giving up the red fruit flavors. Not too dry either, but with subtle tannins, so you don’t feel like a child drinking juice.
B567 from Gourmet Market
Bestsellers among Chilean wines, these guys are famous for consistency and easy drinkability, perfect if you don’t have the palate (yet) for intense stuff. The Gato Negro is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, but thanks to the mild weather and the stainless steel maturation process, the wine is more fruity and less tannic than usual.
BK Tasting: Similar to the Hardy’s though a touch sweeter and differently structured: the subtle tannins are present more at the finish than throughout.
Make cheap wines taste chic with these tips.
1. For bold reds like the Solanera, pick glasses with wide bowls that will expose more to the air, letting the wine breathe.
2. For sweet-smelling light wines like the Rare, pick a glass with a small bowl and a tapered mouth that will direct the aroma directly to your nose.
3. Drink sparkling wines in long, narrow glasses, called flutes, to keep the lovely bubbles for as long as possible.
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Read your poems to a sympathetic audience
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www.bct-th.org
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www.thaivwclub.com
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