Gazpacho

This cold Spanish soup will remedy your impending heat stroke, as well as any raw food tendencies you might have. Traditional gazpacho involves absolutely no cooking: stale bread, tomatoes and other vegetables are chopped and puréed, and cold olive oil and wine vinegar are added at the end, making gazpacho not only cool, but also zesty and refreshing. Get a cup at Tapas Café (1/25 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-2947) for B120.

Oysters

You don’t have to wait till the end of the meal to enjoy ice-cold bliss. At The Oyster Bar (395 Narathiwas Soi 24, 02-212-4809), you can pick from the day’s selection of fresh oysters flown in from Canada and the US. April is the tail-end of the season so gorge yourself before the summer months. Individual oysters range from B75-300 each and dozens go for B1,500-3,000. April also sees a special deal where B990 gets you a dozen oysters and a glass of Champagne.

Guacamole

Eating cold food doesn’t mean you have to sacrifice on nutrients. Thanks to the avocado base, a bowl of guacamole packs in a fair amount of protein to go with your carbalicious tortilla chips. The addition of lime, cilantro, onion and tomato all lend a spike of acidity to the smooth base. We like the chunky version offered at La Monita Taqueria (1/F Mahatun Plaza, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-650-9581), B160.

Beef Tartare

Essentially chopped cuts of high-quality (one hopes) raw meat, the Western-type beef tartare involves tart, spicy additions like capers, mustard, onions and Worcestershire sauce. Sometimes there’s even an egg. Le Bouchon (Patpong Soi 2, 02-2349109) serves this bistro classic in a grungy—but authentic—atmosphere for B550. For the Japanese counterpart, yukke (B180), try the new and hip Iza (Somerset Residence, 115 Soi Thong Lor, 02-712-7836).

Khao Chae

Summer also means khao chae, that seasonal relic of royal Thai cuisine, with its many little components: young chillies stuffed with shrimp, dried fish cooked in palm sugar, stuffed red shallots, par-boiled jasmine rice in ice water, smoked overnight in rose and jasmine—and more. April is awash with hotel restaurants doing a seasonal deal on this dish (not to mention S&P). Try the one at Spice Market (Four Seasons, 155 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-126-8866) for B700 per person, from Apr 13-19.

Bagel and Lox

Pack in the calories without overheating yourself with this New York breakfast and lunch favorite. A bagel of your choice is smeared with cold cream cheese and topped with smoked salmon and red onions. There aren’t many places in Bangkok where you can get bagel and lox, but the newly-opened BKK Bagel Bakery (518/3 Maneeya Center, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-254-8157) remedies that for B195 a pop.

Naengmyeong

Satisfy your noodle craving without enduring a boiling hot gway tiew naam. Go for Korean buckwheat noodles, naengmyeong, which come with either a plain cold broth, called mool naengmeong, or a spicy broth, called bi bim naengmyeong. Both these versions, and a few others, are available at Myeong-ga (216/14 Sukhumvit Plaza, Sukhumvit Soi 12, 02-229-4658) for B200-250.

Gway Tiew Lui Suwan

This ubiquitous cold dish can be bought from many a street vendor, sold as a box of cold rice noodle sheets rolled up with all kinds of veggies and meat and topped with a spicy, garlicky green sauce. But our favorite version of this dish is a kind of DIY naem neung called Complicated Noodles (B140), served at Greyhound Café, where you assemble lettuce, herbs, noodle squares and sauces into cooling bites. For a full list of branches, visit www.greyhoundcafe.co.th.

Tabouleh

This cold salad is common to many Middle Eastern cuisines and comes in variations containing grains of either couscous or bulghur wheat and is packed with loads of refreshing elements: lemon juice, mint leaves, parsley and raw veggies like tomatoes and onions. We like the one at Nadimo’s (Ban Silom, Silom Soi 19, 02-266-9081) for B110. You’ll probably want to have it with a variety of other mezzes, though, like roasted eggplant and chickpea purees.

The folks: The higher-elevation wines of the Alsace region are starting to enjoy greater exposure here thanks to an increased interest in similar wines from Germany and Austria. The Trimbach family has been around Alsace since the 1600s, making wines in a traditional Alsace style: very dry with lots of strong fruit.

The grape: Despite the label reading Pinot Blanc, what’s in this bottle is actually a blend of two types of Pinot grapes: largely Auxerrois, a French grape, which has a lot of body, ripeness and a beautiful golden color; and Pinot Blanc, which lends a lot of fresh acidity. The exact proportions vary from year to year, depending on the harvest, in order to determine the best composition.

The label: Despite the two-grape blend, this has an Alsace AOC (designation of origin), because Alsace allows the umbrella label Pinot Blanc to be used for such a blend.

The look: An attractive deep golden color.

The smell: Very distinct from other whites you may have tried: bold, fruity and voluptuous, almost syrupy. The intense fruit is typical of this region and varietal.

The sip: Don’t mistake fruitiness with sweetness. This wine is quite dry and medium-bodied, with a beautiful, supple feel in the mouth that’s almost creamy, except for the kick of acidity. There’s also hint of mineral taste for balance.

The food: Good with chicken, seafood and pasta that have light sauces. We also like it as an aperitif as it’s very easy to drink lots of it without food.

The damage: B999 from Central Wine Cellars (try Central Chit Lom).

1.Toulouse

B420/kg from Gargantua
This French sausage has a few variations, but most often contains various cuts of pork, garlic, goose fat, dry white wine and a touch of spice like black pepper, mace or nutmeg. The preferred way of cooking it is to fry or braise it, as in a cassoulet, a French stew involving loads of duck fat and white beans.

2. Bratwurst

B87/2 pieces from Bei Otto
This German sausage has up to forty varieties, depending on the region, but all are made from either pork or veal. The most well-known variety comes from Nuremberg, where the recipe involves pork and fresh marjoram. While not as big as some of the other varieties of bratwurst, a couple of these can be a meal in their own right, especially when served with a nice, starchy potato salad. Other sharp-flavored condiments like spicy mustard and sauerkraut are also wonderful complements to it’s meaty aromas.
• Next to the Bei Otto deli is also their restaurant (see Essentials), where you can have them cook you up a bratwurst, or several other German sausages.

3. Chorizo

B320/kg from Villa Supermarket
While the European versions of chorizo are dried and cured (making them ideal cold cuts), the Mexican counterpart, originally developed to counter the high cost of importing chorizo from the Old World, is a fresh sausage made with minced pork, fat, white wine, vinegar and paprika (often smoked). You can grill it whole, or cut open the casing and sear the minced meat to add to a sauce or use it in a burrito.
• Good Mexican chorizo can be found at La Monita Taqueria (Mahatun Plaza, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-650-9581), as a filling in their tacos, burritos and in their choriqueso (B290).

4. Italian sausage

B320/kg from Villa Supermarket
This is really an American, of course, as the adjective “Italian” wouldn’t clarify much among the myriad options of cured and fresh sausages available in Italy. An Italian sausage, then, refers to a fresh pork sausage with no more than 35% fat whose dominant flavor comes from the addition of anise or fennel seeds, giving it a sweet, fragrant quality. There’s also a spicy version, with little or no sugar and lots more red pepper. These go great in pasta sauces and as pizza toppings.
• The Horse Says Moo (Sukhumvit Soi 33, 02-662-0402) does a nice tagliatelle with Italian sausage (B340).

5. American breakfast sausage

B265/pack of Johnsonville from Villa Supermarket
Not to be confused with the greasy, off-pink hotdogs you get at cheap hotel breakfasts, a real American breakfast sausage is a poor man’s delicacy, chock full of pork fat (some say at least 1/3 of the sausage should be fat), coarsely ground pork, red pepper (often cayenne), dried herbs (especially sage, but sometimes dried marjoram and thyme as well) and some sort of sweetness (such as a bit of brown sugar). You can also have these as flat patties rather than links, and, like a true American, try pouring maple syrup on them.

6. Cumberland

B420/kg from Gargantua
Recently awarded PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) status by the European Union, the Cumberland sausage is a classic banger from northeastern England, involving several cuts of pork, fat, bread crumbs and sweeter spices like mace and nutmeg. Though traditionally made as one very long, coiling sausage, you’re more likely to find it in Bangkok as the more manageable chain. (And with the PGI now it effect, those not made in the county of Cumbria will no longer be able to put the word Cumberland on the packaging. Good thing you now know the ingredients.)
•Gastro 1/6 (RMA Institute, Soi Sai Namthip 2, Sukhumvit Soi 22, 089-985-3655) uses locally-made Cumberland sausages in many of their breakfast dishes.

7. Merguez

B590/kg from Gargantua
The merguez is a North African sausage and as such is made with lamb. They are quite red in color, due to the paprika in their ingredients. Some versions also have sumac, a spice native to the Mediterranean region that lends color and lemon-like notes, while Eastern spices and herbs, like cumin, coriander and fennel are also often included. It’s often served with a tajine or other couscous dishes, but in Europe, it’s eaten in a baguette or breadroll with mustard, like a hotdog.
•Check out the couscous beldi (B540), a kind of tajine-like stew, at Crepes and Co. (18/1 Sukhumvit Soi 12, 02-653-3990) for a taste of merguez in action.

Essentials

Bei Otto 1 Sukhumvit Soi 20, 02-260-0869. Open daily 8am-midnight
Villa Supermarket Sukhumvit Soi 33, 02-662-1000. Open 24 hours.
Gargantua 10/2 Convent Soi 6, Silom Rd., 02-630-4577

Sra Bua

Siam Kempinski, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-162-9000. Lunch Mon-Fri noon-3pm
The place: Sister restaurant of Copenhagen’s Michelin-starred Kiin Kiin, Sra Bua offers a hyper-modern deconstruction and re-presentation of Thai cuisine. Sound expensive? It is. The set dinner there will put you out B2,400 with an additional B2,400 if you want wine pairings. Not that we don’t recommend for everyone to save up and do it at least once.
The deal: B1,500, a fraction of the price of the dinner menu, gets you the same initial set of nibbles as well as a three-course menu with dishes like pad thai Kiin Kiin style, frozen red curry lobster and their wonderful ice cream platter inspired by three kinds of tea. And many of these dishes are also on the dinner menu, so you don’t feel you’re missing out by not going at night.

Gianni Ristorante

34/1 Soi Tonson, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-252-1619. Lunch daily noon-2pm
The place: Tucked away down Soi Tonson, Gianni has a lot of Old World Charm, from the décor to the affable Italian maitre d’ in the gray suit, as well as a large following of loyal customers who refer to the place fondly as “Gianni’s.” In addition to classic dishes, they also have a very extensive list of Italian wines, organized conveniently by region.
The deal: Impressively, a reservation is required here even at lunchtime, when the restaurant is packed to the brim with fancy Japanese, Thai and Italian business types, and a few hi-so ladies, all taking advantage of the luxurious two-course (B390) or three-course (B470) set lunches. Choose from simple, well-executed starters like lobster bisque and caprese salad and mains like risotto with green peas and Parmesan and homemade egg fettucine with bolognese sauce. Desserts include classics like tiramisu and slightly lighter fare like lemon sorbet with fruit salad. They do several wines by the glass, so you don’t have to blow your budget on a bottle.

D’Sens

22/F, The Dusit Thani, Rama 4 Rd., 02-200-9000. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm
The place: One of the only places we’ve given five stars to, D’Sens is the jewel in Dusit Thani’s crown, an outpost of the Michelin-starred Pourcel brothers of Marseille, offering breathtaking service (and views) and contemporary takes on French food. Sadly, the prices reflect that, and the set dinner menu here is well over B2,000.
The deal: At lunch, there are cheaper option courses for B850 and three courses for B950, and the ingredients are sourced from the Royal Projects in Chiang Mai as Chef Julien has been consistently impressed with the quality of the produce. (Conveniently, it also keeps prices low.) Expect dishes like Provencale frog legs, seared sea bass with crunchy risotto and vegetable comfit and saffron and lemon mille feuille. The menu changes every few weeks, too.

Le Normandie

Mandarin Oriental, 48 Oriental Avenue, 02-659-9000. Lunch Mon-Sat noon-2pm
The place: A veritable Bangkok institution going back decades, Le Normandie requires gentlemen to wear a jacket to dinner, an indication of how fancy the place is. At B2,300, the three-course set dinner is well out of the price range of most people, except perhaps for very special occasions. Yet the appeal of sampling classic, fancy, heavy French fare is understandable.
The deal: Thankfully, the lunch deal (B1,150) offers much of the luxe experience without sacrificing on the gastronomic front. Also covering three-courses, the menu offers options like escargots fricassés with frog legs, yellowtail Provencale, braised duck leg with forest mushrooms and access to a dessert trolley—not to mention the famous Oriental macarons to go with your coffee. Oh, and the prices are net.

Le Beaulieu

Grand Mercure Asoke Residence, 50/5 Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-204-2004. Lunch 11:30am-2:30pm
The place: A kind of French equivalent of Gianni, Le Beaulieu has a lot to get you excited about: a gorgeous space in a semi-standalone location (think lots of windows, a rustic sky blue ceiling and sketches on the walls), a knowledgeable clientele and a chef-driven experience, with the charming and talented Herve Ferard greeting you out front as well as busying himself in the kitchen.
The deal: There are two tiers of set lunches to choose from, both three courses: the Executive Set Lunch (B825) and the frequently changing Business Lunch (B525). But don’t think less of the cheaper option, as many of the dishes on it are even more exciting, such as the luscious goat cheese and poached eggs salad, the complex sea bass with beurre blanc and black truffle and the comforting sweetbread vol au vent. The Executive Set Lunch also has some hearty options, like the beef tartar with rocket salad and the fish bouillabaise. And when it comes time for your main course, the server helpfully brings a portable chalkboard listing their wines by the glass, even making a pairing suggestion. For dessert, we suggest the Alsacienne lemon tart.

Hot new Indian restaurant Gaggan (68/1 Soi Lang Suan, 02-652-1700) serves up classic Indian food with impressive, sometimes arresting, modern gastro touches, and this corn chaat (B200 a la carte) is a popular starter at the restaurant. Usually a zesty, streetside snack in many parts of India, the chaat has many variations, this version involving corn (diced baked sweet potatoes are also popular). Here’s a modern take on this all-time favorite that makes for an easy appetizer or can even be served in little shot glasses for a cocktail party.

Ingredients

• 2 cobs of local corn
• 1 onion
• 10 cherry tomatoes
• 1 lemon
• 1 green chili
• a few sprigs of cilantro
• salt (or Indian black salt, if available)

Procedure

1. Roast the corn cobs on a grill or oven until half the kernels are lightly charred.
2. Dice the onions, cherry tomatoes, green chili and cilantro into corn kernel sized pieces.
3. Using a good knife, shave the kernels off the corn cobs.
4. Mix the kernels with the rest of the ingredients, add lemon juice and salt to taste.
5. Serve chilled.