Movie Review: Breaking Dawn Part 2

Editor's Rating: 
2
Average: 2 (1 vote)

Breaking Dawn Part 2 is the fifth and final installment in the Twilight Saga, based on Stephanie Meyer’s four novels. The hugely successful saga’s appeal is that it’s a very old-fashioned romance with a liberal sprinkling of fantasy, and even a bit of action, which sees vampires and werewolves pitted against one another.

Opening Date: 
Thu, 2012-11-15
Images: 
Author: 
Gregoire Glachant

Movie Review: Skyfall

Editor's Rating: 
3
Average: 3 (1 vote)

From Batman to Indiana Jones, the film industry has no shortage of durable macho icons. But the James Bond franchise, with its (nearly) bi-annual returns, catchphrases and highly anticipated opening gambits, is more than an icon—it’s a year-end ritual that’s lasted for half a century. Bond films are also a celebration of a certain lifestyle; they are Esquire (or GQ) magazine made film: suits are tailored, cars are impeccably turned out, drinks are ordered with a connoisseur’s flair. But if 50th anniversaries and Tom Ford suits don’t particularly move you, what’s left?

Opening Date: 
Mon, 2012-11-05
Images: 
Author: 
Gregoire Glachant

Skyfall

Editor's Rating: 
3
Average: 3 (1 vote)
Starring: 
Daniel Craig
Directed By: 
Sam Mendes

From Batman to Indiana Jones, the film industry has no shortage of enduring macho icons. But the James Bond franchise, with its (nearly) bi-annual returns, catchphrases and highly anticipated opening gambits, is more than an icon—it’s a year-end ritual that’s lasted for half a century. Bond films are also a celebration of a certain lifestyle; they are Esquire (or GQ) magazine made film: suits are perfectly tailored, cars are impeccably polished, drinks are ordered with a connoisseur’s flair. If 50th anniversaries and Tom Ford tuxedos don’t particularly move you, what’s left though?

Opening Date: 
Thu, 2012-11-01
Language: 
English
Running Time: 
2 hr. 23 min.
Genre: 
Action/Crime/Thriller
Images: 
Skyfall
Author: 
Gregoire Glachant
Taxonomy upgrade extras: 

Ashley Sutton, 38, is the guy behind Iron Fairies, Clouds, Fat Gut’z and Mr. Jones’ Orphanage; not to mention a growing number of branches and commissioned designs, including a soon-to-open book shop, throughout Bangkok. He talks to BK about his frantic creative drive, his hatred for nightlife and his love for the open sea.

I was born in Perth, Australia. My father worked on the railway, and my mom for a newspaper. But my wider family were all fishermen, and I grew up on boats sailing around remote islands north of Perth.

You don’t appreciate those moments. But since I left home at 14, I’ve realized how much I miss it. Whenever I get time, I go back to the boat I have there.

It’s a nightmare here [in Bangkok]. I look at [a picture of] my boat every night, before going to bed. But too many days at sea can drive you nuts. I actually miss the rat race after a while. You need the balance.

My parents sent me to all these psychologists, psychiatrists. Every day of my life, I had headaches, was very antisocial, I drew all over my walls.

I got my first tattoo when I was 12. I had to lie about my age. I don’t know why I get them. It’s so stupid. Fucks my body up. But I don’t do any drugs, too scared. Only had my first drink when I was 30 because my fiancé forced me.

Vodka helps. It makes me realistic. And otherwise I can’t sleep. But I swim about a kilometer every day.

I’ve never read a book in my life. Fairy tales? Mum never told me any shit like that. I didn’t associate with my parents.

I didn’t want to go to school. It’s a waste of time. I know what I want to do in life.

I have to work. I can’t handle not working. The day I left school was the best day of my life.

I just went knocking on doors, at factories, showing my technical drawing file that I had from school. A guy took me in for an apprenticeship.

I worked on the mines, driving these huge cranes. I stayed in this little room, and after work, everyone would go back to the pub and drink beer, in the dessert. But I saved up. Within two months I saved up for my boat and a house.

A crane fell and crushed my hand. I told the surgeon, “I don’t care, just don’t send me back to Perth. Just fold it back, as long as I can go fishing.” But they managed to get me to a surgeon in Perth.

I started making and selling stained glass lamps at this market. The guy next to me was a Chinese acupuncturist. “You should go to China,” he kept saying. I was so scared to go anywhere out of Perth. I was really scared. Finally, I went.

I packed my suitcase with muesli bars and chips. I was so scared of the food. I went to this huge fair in Guangzhou. Went to these amazing factories. All this stuff I’d learned to do all my life, 5,000 people were making it! I loved it.

I don’t think about money, just about creating something crazy. My first business was based solely on creativity. I didn’t think about the business side of things.

I design a place solely on my heart. I have to consciously stop myself and say, “This oven has to actually work. Don’t put it here, put it there.”

I don’t care if I get copied. My places have soul, a backbone. You can’t copy that.

I’m a jack of all trades, master of none. I feel I could have done so much better. I’ve seen so many amazing designers, so many amazing craftsmen and artists.

I don’t think I’m a designer. I’ve never done anything, no schooling. I see the space, and within five minutes I know how to build it. I see it to every last detail before it’s even started.

I’m making a book now, about crazy machines. That’s why I bought a loft, too, so I can fly off the top in my flying machine. I’ll bring it to my book launch. It’s a single seater, twin props, filled with helium.

I’m a bastard. I’m not a people person. I wish I was. Don’t have time for it. Talking to drunk people? I’m so over it. That’s why I love Mr. Jones at night. Sit, have a cup of tea—I enjoy intelligent conversation. I’ve had it with alcohol-fueled environments.

I don’t give a shit about running my venues. It’s an absolute nightmare. I just want to build them.

Suvarnabhumi airport’s check-in counter is my favorite place in Bangkok. I can’t stand traffic. I can’t stand the BTS. I’ve got no time. You’re stuck in your car, it’s a waste of time. It’s a waste of life.

But then I go back to Perth, and I think it’s such a depressing city where you go and die. Or New York, on Sunday—they say it never sleeps—bullshit! It’s dead.

I stress out on Sundays, when [my shops are] closed. I get a bit depressed. I want everything to open again.

All my mates are having kids. Ugly wives. Tied to shit jobs because they have to work. It’s a nightmare. They’re fat, they’re bald. I don’t want to get married. Ever.

I’ve only got eight years left of severe power. I want to look back and think, I’ve done a good hard day’s work. And I’d like a bigger boat.

I suppose I should have been more of a family person. I was always on my boat for Christmas. I should probably speak more to my family.

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The Pro: Tanapol Kaewpring

Currently a fashion photographer for L’Officiel Magazine, Tanapol Kaewpring’s artistic work is very diffent: highly conceptual, provocative and delivering thoughtful observations on change, growth and destruction.

Are there a lot of photography collectors in Bangkok at the moment?
Photography-wise, not so much compared to other types of art. It’s been growing for a long time, but it still isn’t mainstream.
How do you balance your editorial, commercial and artistic work?
It’s quite difficult. When I’m doing editorial or commercial work, I’m doing what others want—agencies, creatives and clients. But in my personal work, I answer my own questions and meet my own goals. There’s a similar thought process, but the objective is different. In the end, I think you’ve got to choose what you really want to do, whether to go commercial or delve deeper into fine art. Now I’m learning both, but I definitely would like to further my career on the art side of things.
Which Thai photographers do you like?
The first name that comes to mind is always fashion photographer Kornkrit Jianpinidnun. I was one of the first people to follow his work, so I’ve seen his growth and improvement, and it has inspired me.
Where do you recommend people go to see good photography?
I love Manit Sriwanichpoom’s Kathmandu Gallery. It really is a gallery for photography, unlike many others that mix different types of art. They also have high standards in selecting whose work to showcase. It’s always good.
Can you make a living selling your photos?
You can’t live by just doing that. You have to slowly build your profile, gain connections, have a clear stand point in your work and constantly improve to build a following. It’s really hard to survive solely on selling your art. You might get B20,000-30,000 for each picture, but chances are you won’t be selling on a regular basis.
Any tips for aspiring photographers?
Define yourself; photography is like telling a story. Choose which colors you want to use to tell your story. Take pictures according to your tale. Let the camera roll and keep going. You need to have a heart. Don’t just enrol in some course then get paranoid that you need better equipment. Everything depends on you.
What was the inspiration for your latest work?
Personal experience. I’m currently doing some soul searching, trying to choose my path. In the end, I can’t escape from my thoughts about my career, my family etc. It’s my relationship with myself and everything that surrounds me that inspires me.

The instagram master: Athipan Wongsuebyut

Athipan Wongsuebyut, better known by his Instagram name @awnoom, is a graphic designer whose minimalist snapshots have a following of 180,000.

Has Instagram changed the way you see things?
Definitely, Instagram collects lots of amazing pictures from all over the world. These pictures inspire me. It also widens my perspective and makes me care more about composition.
How did you get so many followers?
I really have no idea. I’ve been on Instagram for two years; the first year I was like everybody else and had about 60 friends. Then last year, I moved to work in Songkhla and started posting pictures that I took there. I was surprised because many strangers would “like” my pictures and start following me. I owe it to my friends @pketron and @chrisconnolly who introduced me to @josh, a member of the Instagram team who interviewed me for the Instagram blog.
How do you decide which pictures to post?
I think a good picture is one that can effectively tell a story. The one thing that’s important is to really communicate with the viewer. Personally, I place lots of importance on composition.
Is there any pressure when you have so many followers?
Nope, if there was I would stop using Instagram. Actually, I think it’s challenging in a good way, especially when you see great pictures from others. It makes you want to improve yourself.
What are your favorite filters?
Valencia and Hudson.
What apps do you tend to use to take pictures?
I often use Snapseed to edit the lighting and color tone of a picture. But mostly I just use the camera from the iPhone. I turn on the HDR mode to level out the amount of contrast which makes it easy to work with other filter apps. The grid option is also helpful when you want precision. But there are times when I take pictures directly with Instagram, too. It’s quick and you can see exactly how a picture’s going to look, so it helps with the composition of a picture.

The Street Photographer: Luke Satoru

With photography becoming such an ubiquitous, throwaway activity, Luke Satoru is one of those photographers who would like to reconnect with the meaningful craft it once was. He’s reverted to shooting film and has helped bring over The Invisible Photographer workshop from Singapore (invisiblephotographer.asia) to assist Bangkok’s amateur photographers approach this instantaneous art in a more deliberate, thoughtful manner.

Why do people come to the workshops?
They’re either new to street photography, or have tried it a bit, but need to see what is missing in their work. The first part of the workshop is references, showing different styles, and then a quick tutorial on your camera—zone focusing, settings, that sort of stuff.  People are then asked to shoot at least at a 35mm [wide] focal range. A lot of people don’t get close enough.
Is a wide-angle lens key to taking good pictures?
Not necessarily. One participant had this ability to find the quiet beauty in things. And she could play up to that and not get really close. But the workshop helps you figure what works for you.
Is Bangkok a street photography mecca?
Yeah, some cities have great color and activity. New York is like that. Bangkok, too. We have friends based in Singapore and they much prefer here. The first workshop was mostly people who flew in, but the second one was people living in Bangkok. I think their work was better, they were more comfortable with the city.
Why do you shoot film?
I was shooting jewelry for my work, then sports I was involved in—MMA [Mixed Martial Arts], Jiu jitsu. Then I kind of hit a wall. I went back to shooting black and white film. Everyone works so hard, you need to find something to pull you back into the moment. Shooting with a rangefinder camera, you need to take the time. Also, people ask, “What is that?” when they see me shooting. When they see that it’s a film camera, it starts a conversation, and people are more open.
Luke Satoru is a jewelry designer (www.lukesatoru.com) and runs a Brazilian Jiu Jitsu gym (see www.bkkbjj.com).

The Conservationist: Manit Sriwanichpoom

Manit Sriwanichpoom is the man behind the Pink Man photography series, for which he gained international fame. He’s been busy with a lot of other projects (he was director of photography for the banned film Shakespeare Must Die). But one of his pet projects has been the Forgotten Masters series, where he unearths old Thai photographers and showcases their works at his small Kathmandu Gallery.

How did the project start?
I used to teach photography and I found that all our knowledge relied on the West. Why do we look to somewhere else, not here? Anek Nawikamun had made a book on the history of early Thai photography, which goes from photography’s arrival here, up to Rama VI or VII. But after that, nothing. So I thought my starting point should be from 1932, the arrival of democracy. I wanted to see how photography has helped to promote democracy.
How does photography play a political role?
Once you have photography, you prove that you exist in this society. That’s why people go to photo studios to get their pictures done, to register their identity, to get identification documents. You look at the pictures we showed from Pornsak Sakdaenprai; they are photographs from Phi Mai taken in the mid 1960s, and you can see how people realized their identity through them.
Is this also a call to preserve our photographic heritage?
Thailand has lost a lot of important evidence of its history. We didn’t really see how our own story was important. Thai history mostly gives importance to the monarchy, or religion. When you learn history, there’s hardly any stories about commoners. So people did not keep photographs, diary, documents. It wasn’t in the culture. When I started to look for photographs not even that old, maybe 30-40 years, it was very hard for me to find anything. People just threw them away.
What’s your take on mobile digital photography?
Instead of writing, people take photographs. It’s very difficult to say whether this is good or bad, but it’s a way to communicate. It’s hard to remember any of the stuff being photographed, because there’s so much of it. I think people are still looking for inspiration. People still value good products. So these forgotten masters, it’s good training and can help people swim against this flood of images.
Have you been influenced by these “forgotten masters?”
Sometimes, when I start a project, the story of an old master comes to me. When I worked on my nude series [Obscene], I would say I was inspired by ML Toy Xoomsai. From his work, I could see how his generation talked about women. And it’s important that the current generation see this perspective.
Currently, Disco Buddha by Kamthorn Paowattanasuk is on show at Kathmandu Gallery. Photo credits: Pornsak Sakdaenprai (top two), ML Toy Xoomsai (bottom).

Camera Bag: Fall 2012’s Photo Must-Have’s

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Toys For your camera

1.) Belkin LiveAction Camera Grip for iPhone, B1,790.
2.) GoPano Micro Lens for panoramic shots, B2,990.
3.) The ICA camera case turns your iPhone into an old Leica, comes with a lens mount, a working shutter button, an optical viewfinder and a tripod mount, B2,190.
4.) The Belkin LiveAction Mic is a small microphone that plugs into the audio jack of your iPhone, B1,990.
5.) The Kola Manual Color Flash features eight colored filters; just cover the flash with the desired filter and add some color to your picture, B245.
6.) The Epson PM310 acts as a 7” LCD picture frame as well as a 6x4” color printer with a resolution up to 5760x1440 dpi, B8,900.

Essentials

Go Pano Micro Lens, and Belkin LiveAction Camera Grip. Order online at www.symbolsofstyle.com
ICA Camera Case and LiveAction Mic. 4/F, CentralWorld, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-613-1299. BTS Chidlom
Kola Manual Color Flash and Epson PM310. Order online at www.gadgetandplay.com

HOT CAMERAS

1.) Samsung EX2F

Specs: 12.4MP 1/1.7” sensor
F1.4 24-80mm lens 3.3x zoom
3.0” Swivel AMOLED display
ISO 80-3200 extendable to 12,800
1080/30p video
Wi-Fi, magnesium body
Price: Approximately US$549 (B16,895)
Why it’s hot: The lense’s incredibly wide aperture is the best in its class; that means better low-light capacity and nice blurry backgrounds on portraits. Wi-Fi is a nice touch, too.

2.) Sony Cyber-shot DSC-RX100

Specs: 20MP 1” sensor
F1.8-4.9mm stabilized lens
ISO 125-6400
1080p60 video or 1080i with the ability to shoot 17MP stills without interrupting video recording
Price: Approximately US$649 (B19,972)
Why it’s hot: It’s a compact, and hardly bigger than a Canon S100, but its sensor is positively huge, making its low-light capacities close to a mirror-less system camera. A real technological breakthrough.

3.) Sony Alpha NEX-5R

Specs: Mirror-less
16.1 MP sensor
3” touch screen
ISO 100-25600
1920x1080/60p video
Wi-Fi, HDMI, USB 2.0
Price: Body only for $650 (about B20,500), available in October.
Why it’s hot: The latest update to Sony’s now very popular mirror-less NEX series gets faster autofocus and Wi-Fi.

4.) Fujifilm X-E1

Specs: 16-megapixel X-Trans
2.4-megapixel OLED electronic viewfinder
XF18-55mm (27-84mm equivalent) f/2.8-4
Price: Body only for $999.95 (B30,773), or bundled with the XF18-55mm lens for $1,399.95 (B43,083)
Why it’s hot: The old X-Pro 1 (B59,000) remains possibly the best-looking digital camera out there short of buying a Leica. The auto-focus was a bit sluggish in low-light, though. And guess what, its successor, the new X-E1, is meant to fix just that.

5.) Nikon D600

Specs: Full frame DSLR
24.7 MP sensor
3.2” LCD screen
ISO 100-6400
1080/309 HD video
SD, HDMI
Price: B72,500
Why it’s hot: Nikon finally has its own semi-affordable full-frame DSLR. In fact, it’s even cheaper than Canon’s 5D Mark III, and so loaded with features it almost seems too good to be true.

TOUCH Photography

Nikon Coolpix S800c

What is it: A Wi-Fi only Nikon compact camera slapped onto an Android operating system (version 2.3.3). That means you can edit your pics in any Android app you like using the touch screen and upload them to social media sites without even going through your phone—or just use it to play Angry Birds. It can’t place calls though
The specs: 3.5-inch 854 x 480 OLED screen, 16mp camera, HD (1080p) video, 10x zoom.
When can I get it: Available for pre-order in the USA for US$350, gray market imports should pop up at Pantip soon after its release.

Samsung EK-GC-100

What is it: Just like the Nikon, this Samsung camera is paired with an Android-based touch-screen device that will run any Android photo app you want. But this device’s specs are better the Nikon in every way: super sharp screen, twice the zoom, and 3G/4G functionality. That last point is key, because it means that although this camera can’t make calls, it can upload pictures without Wi-Fi, and that’s really what makes mobile photography so much fun.
The specs: 4.8-inch, 1,280 x 720-pixel display. 21x zoom (23-480mm).
When can I get it: Due for an Oct release. Price TBA.

Nokia Lumia 808 and 920

What is it: If you thought Nokia had gone the way of Blackberry, think again. The Finnish manufacturer has just put out two sleek handsets with class-leading cameras. The 808’s 41-megapixel sensor creates incredibly sharp images with five times the detail you’d get on an iPhone 4s. (Too bad it’s not a great a smartphone.) The 920 only has an 8-mp camera but its optical stabilization allows for smooth video and stellar low-light photography (and it’s a better smartphone).
The specs: The 808 runs a sluggish Symbian Belle OS on a measly 640 x 360 screen but it does have that 41-mp camera. The 920 runs Windows 8 mobile on a dual-core 1.5GHz Snapdragon S4 CPU (same as the top of the line Galaxy S III) and a sharp 1,280 x 768 LCD display. Now if they could just slap the 808’s camera on the 920...
When can I get it: The 808 is available for B18,900. The 920’s pricing won’t even be released until late 2012.

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Singapore might well "come alive" for F1 weekend later this month, but we can't blame you if you're bored to death of the whole thing by now. So why not use the weekend tactically and get out of town? Here's a whole stack of ideas for the perfect citybreak, with not one checkered flag in sight.

Malaysia

Bangin Bangsar
New neighborhoods come and go in rapidly expanding KL, but despite the rise of upscale rival Solaris Mont Kiara, we still find ourselves drawn back to grungy Bangsar. Partly it’s for the leafy streets, partly for the laid-back residential vibe and partly for the two-story shophouses that double as family homes. Add to that the sheer (and ever-changing) range of food, drink and young designer boutiques on offer, this area feels more like a hip suburb in Sydney than an enclave of KL.

 EAT

Antipodean Cafe
20 Jalan Telawi 2, +603 2282-0411.
This modern Kiwi/Australian-style cafe uses the very best coffee blends produced by Indonesian-based franchise Merdeka Coffee. They back it up with a solid menu of brunch/breakfast classics in a simple café setting. The buzz does mean it can be hard to get a seat.

Chawan
69-G Jalan Telawi 3, +603 2287-5507.
Half coffee specialist, half upmarket mamak (the Malay equivalent of a street-side 24-hour diner), Chawan has a devoted crowd who come for the impressive range of coffee and affordable traditional Malay menu. For a light snack, try the Keropok Lekor, a popular doughy finger food. To wash it down, order kopi hang tuah, Penang’s regional rocket fuel.

El Meson Espanol
61-63 Jalan Telawi 3, +603 2282-8290, www.elmeson.com.my.
A bar vibe, thanks to a vibrant color scheme and quirky touches, make this place a good spot to enjoy the decent wine menu while snacking on small plates and hearty Spanish classics like rabbit stew and Iberico cheeks.

F by Buffalo Kitchens
69-1 Jalan Telawi Tiga, +603 2201-9307.
Head up the graffiti-covered wooden stairs to find this very contemporary French/Italian eatery, with an eco-touch (they use recycled furniture and flooring). They make all their own sauces and have a very impressive wine list. We love the large open kitchen and the great vantage point offered by the al fresco balcony.

Les Deux Garcons
36 Jalan Telawi, +603 2284-7833, www.lesdeuxgarcons.com.my.
If you’re into exquisite-looking patisseries then this is the place to go. Only open a couple of months, the wonderfully understated little store has a very chic atmosphere and a beautiful selection of desserts, such as its best-selling macaroons.

The Social@Bangsar
57-59 Jalan Telawi 3, +603 2282-2260, www.thesocial.com.my.
Favoured for its al fresco seating out on the terrace and laid-back ambiance, this local hot spot is at its best on lazy Sunday mornings and after work. It has a good choice of imported beers and an Asian/international mix of gastropub-style grub.

Plan B
Bangsar Village 1, G5, Ground Floor No. 1, Jalan Telawi, www.thebiggroup.co/planb.
Currently the hippest spot in the hood, Plan B is a modern coffee shop cum bar and deli. Good bistro-style food, big sofas, a nice outdoor terrace and a seasonal selection of single-origin beans make this a top spot to hang out at.

Nirawa Banana Leaf
43 Jalan Telawi 3, +603-2287-8445.
A nondescript shophouse where hungry punters enjoying the authentic Indian and Penang-style fare always overflow into the street. Don’t miss the dishes served on banana leaves (fried fish, crab, chicken and more) which are eaten with hands and come with additional refills.

SHOP

Ben’s General Food Store
Bangsar Village 1, Ground Floor, Jalan Telawi. +603 2284-8790, www.thebiggroup.co/bgfs.
While the classy all-white bistro, with its fresh pastas and salads, is well worth a visit, we really love the food and drink store next door. From Wagyu beef and imported pasta to fresh olives and St. Agur blue cheese, this place is all about the best in imported and organic food.

CZipLee Book Store
No. 1 & 3 Jalan Telawi 3, www.cziplee.com.
In Bangsar since 1968, this bookstore recently moved out of its lovely original building to a larger premise just up the street. It’s still packed with a huge range of titles, especially non-fiction stuff like travel and cooking. The selection of stationery is just as impressive.

Pantry Magic
49 Jalan Telawi Tiga, +603 2201-1578, www.pantry-magic.com/kualalumpur.
Ok, we know that there are branches around Asia but they’re not in a beautiful terraced shop house with its own quaint country kitchen vibe. Inside, you can browse a huge range of high-end kitchen ware from copper pans to retro scales. The store also run occasional cooking classes if you want to learn how to use the stuff.

Juice
46/46-1 Jalan Telawi 5, +603 2283-5811, www.clotinc.com.
The KL branch of a chain out of HK, Juice is a long-term resident in the Bangsar community where it serves up urban fashion and sportswear by the likes of Nike, Converse and CLOT in an uber-cool showroom.

Blueberry Boutique
8 Jalan Tewi 4, +603 2283-1663
This tiny little store is easy to miss, but it’s worth hunting out, for fans of distinct vintage styles with a cute girly touch and lots of bright colors. It stocks a wide range of womenswear, from retro skirts and tailored dresses to shoes and bags.

Om Art
4G Jalan Telawi, +603 2201-9588
Another new arrival, this gallery space has been open for a little over six months. It has a specific focus on Chinese art featuring both local and Taiwanese artists.

Where to stay

Founded and designed by one of KL’s most renowned landscape artist Seksan, boutique guesthouse Sekeping Tenggiri is the hippest accommodation in Bangsar. Each room is individually conceptualized out of the original 1970’s bungalow, which has vertical gardens, a swimming pool and exposed brick walls for that touch of nostalgia. There is even an art gallery located within, featuring works of contemporary Malaysian and Thai artists to add to the arty vibe. RM200 ($80) upwards.
48 Jalan Tenggiri, +603 7207-5977. Call or log on www.tenggiri.com to book.


South Korea

Seoul Secrets
South Korea’s capital is a hard nut to crack, travel-wise. For visitors, it can be difficult to gain insider-level intel on the city’s ultra-hip world of trendy cafés, boutiques and artsy spaces—not to mention hard-to-find restaurants with untranslated menus. With these nifty suggestions, you can explore town just that little bit more like a local.

EAT

Bukchon Kalguksu
84 Sogyeok-dong, Jongro-gu, +82 2739-6334.
The specialty here is wang mandoo guk—literally, giant dumpling soup. At the front of the restaurant, a team of veteran chefs with hands like lightning stuff, fold and crease doughy pockets of goodness.

Bulzip Samgyeopsal
817-28 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, +82 2 3452-7273, www.bulzip.co.kr.
Enjoy some top-notch soju and BBQ pork belly at this lively watering hole.

Daedo Sikdang
150-7 Samseong 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, +82 2 5612-2834.
Fill up on authentic Korean steak, barbecued simply with garlic and cabbage on a burner right at the center of the table. The high-quality rib-eye (from cows raised in Korea, of course) is the star of the show. It isn’t cheap. But it’s delicious—even more so when the waiter makes kkakdugi (white-radish kimchi) fried rice in the same pan used to cook the beef.

Kkanbu Chicken
809-6 Yeoksam-song, Gangnam-gu, +82 2557-6460, www.kkanbu.co.kr.
Stop by for the quintessential Korean late-night meal of fried chicken, fries and beer.

Sigol Babsang
549-9 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, +82 2546-1567.
A restaurant serving traditional Korean fare just off of Garosu-gil, a trendy street that by day is great for shopping, people-watching and latte-sipping. Relax atop cushions on a raised platform against walls lined with old newspapers and feast on bulgogi, kimchi pancakes, bean-paste soup, egg soufflé (less weird and more yummy than it sounds) and an army of banchan (little side dishes).

Yubyulnan
75-1 Taeyoung Building #102, Insa-dong, Jongro-gu.
This small restaurant serves up delicious ddeokbokki, a favorite spicy street food made of sliced rice cakes, noodles and egg.

DO

Hongdae Weekend Market
564-35 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, +82 2325-8553. www.freemarket.or.kr.
Amid throngs of students and creative types, local artisans sell crafty goods from cutesy jewelry to hand-drawn postcards to sophisticated leather credit-card holders.

SHOP

APM Luxe
199-17 Sindang-dong, Jung-gu, +82 2 2231-0936.
This place sells the type of clothes and accessories stocked by boutiques across Seoul, except at bargain prices.

Kyobo
B1-B2/F, 1303-22 Seocho 4-dong, Seocho-gu, +82 2 1544-1900, www.kyobobook.co.kr.
Stock up on artsy Korean stationery at this top-notch bookstore.

O’Sulloc
170 Gwanhoon-dong, Jongro-gu, +82 2 2732-6427, www.osulloc.com.
This teahouse and store is part of a 33-year-old brand that harvests its leaves from fields on Jeju, a much-loved island off the country’s south shore.

Where to stay

Located at the secluded Mount Namsan, Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul has only 16 rooms and 16 suites so you’re sure to have plenty of privacy. Each room also has its own indoor relaxation pool. Plus, their Banyan Tree Spa boasts unique-to-this-location Korean treatments. KRW600,000 ($663) upwards.
San 5-5, Jang Chung-Dong 2-Ga Jung-Gu, +82 2 2250-8000. Book at www.banyantree.com.


Thailand

Brand New Bangkok
So you’ve been to Bangkok several times. But the food scene is now going through a bit of a revival—new openings such as Smith and Quince have brought industrial décor and the rustic/nose-to-tail trend to the city’s tables, not to mention the handful of elegant Isaan restaurants that just popped up. And let’s not forget the happening neighborhoods in Bangkok tucked deep into the side streets or sois, with exciting art spaces and funky shops at Sukhumvit Road. Be surprised at what you can find here.

EAT

Quince
Sukhumvit Soi 45, +66 2662-4478, www.quincebangkok.com.
Quince’s Aussie chef Jess Barnes serves fresh, simple and well-executed dishes with Mediterranean influences and an eye to sustainability. The décor here is country-classic’industrial wood and steel with plenty of ceiling space.

Smith
1/8 Sukhumvit Soi 49, +66 2261-0515/6.
Located in what used to be a former furniture warehouse, this serves a meat-heavy menu that celebrates less popular cuts and locally sourced produce. Expect dishes like tuna, braised pig tail and foie gras torchon with rosemary, citrus and peas, and verjus-glazed pork belly.

Somtam Der
5/5 Saladaeng Rd., +66 2632-4499.
A stone’s throw from the city’s main gayborhood on Silom Road, this restaurant cranks out rare variations of somtam (papaya salad), such as the somtam sua Sakon Nakhon, which comes with freshwater crab and keratin beans, and the somtam pla tu khao man, which includes mackerel and is served with a side of rice cooked in coconut milk. We’re also excited by their martinis: made by infusing vodka with lemongrass or roselle, they pack quite a punch.

Thai Lao Yeh
14/29, Sukhumvit Soi 45, +66 2 2592-8713.
Sample some authentic regional cuisine, such as classic Isaan, Northern and Laotian dishes, at Cabochon Hotel’s in-house restaurant.

The Local
32-32/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23, +66 2 6643-3601.
Chef and co-owner Can Markawat focuses on authentic local dishes and regional products cooked according to hard-to-find recipes. Tuck into a gaeng run juan (beef in spicy herbal soup) from the Rama Vera or try out the pla paak nam (seafood in red curry paste), a recipe taken from Siam’s first cookbook, Mae Krua Hua Pa. They’re all served in a beautiful hundred-year-old house whose individual rooms take their inspiration from various regions.

Water Library Thonglor
G/F, The Grass, Thonglor Soi 12, +66 2 7149-2923, www.mywaterlibrary.com.
For B6,600 ($264), you get to enjoy a set 12-course menu that changes with the seasons but always includes plenty of imported delicacies and modern/molecular touches. Downstairs, mixologist Mirko Gardellino’s personalized cocktails and the sexy, darkly-lit wine bar give you the perfect excuse need to stick around after dinner.

SHOP

Asiatique
2194 Charoenkrung Rd., +66 2108-4488, www.thaiasiatique.com.
It’s touristy (although packed with locals), it’s brand new (but strangely nostalgic) and despite its riverside location, it pretty much replaces the much missed Suan Lum Night Bazaar that used to be by Lumpini. With a panoramic waterfront and a 100-year old refurbished sawmill, it includes over 1,500 boutiques stocked with souvenirs, fashion, bars and restaurants. The gigantic venue is also home to the Joe Louis Puppet Theater and the transgender extravaganza Calypso Bangkok.

Casa Pagoda
4 Sukhumvit Soi 45, +66 2258-1917, www.casapagoda.com.
For retro furnishings, look no further than elegant home décor boutique Casa Pagoda. The 6000 sq. meter space packs country-style furniture and vintage products ranging from glass soda water dispensers to hemp rugs.

Talad Rot Fai
Kampaengpetch Rd., +66 8 1920-3972.
For something a little bit grittier, Talad Rot Fai (the train market) packs cheap vintage finds ranging from USA license plates to old Thai ads. It’s also just a cool place to hang out and grab a beer, thanks to the collection of hip kids who gather here to pick up old radios, parts for their ’70s automobiles or retro furniture from the converted old warehouse.

ZudRangMa Records
7/1 Sukhumvit Soi 51, +66 08 8891-1314, www.zudrangmarecords.com.
This vinyl record store delivers a heady mix of Isaan country music, such as Luk Thung and Molam. Here, you can also find world music ranging from Jamaican and African to soul and reggae.

DO

Rock Around Asia
5/3 Sukhumvit Soi 45, +66 2662-7604, www.rockaroundasia.com.
At this art gallery, you can shop for travel photography, local pop art and sculptures. There’s also an open-air rooftop cinema promoting classics, indie productions and documentaries. They even organize cooking classes and “off the beaten track” walks around Bangkok.

Opposite
27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 51, +66 2662-6330, oppositebangkok.com.
Drop by this renovated mid-20th century-style shophouse, which plays host to stimulating art, music and dining events.

WTF Gallery & Café
7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, +66 2662-6246, wtfbangkok.com.
Arty souls looking for a low-key, retro hangout would like this hybrid bar, where gigs, art exhibitions and poetry nights take place and stiff cocktails are served.

Where to stay

Located by Chao Phraya river, The Siam is a 39-room luxury Bangkok riverside resort where traditional Siamese architecture meets Art Deco style. The hotel is packed to the rafters with an impressive collection of antiques belonging to local celebrity Krissada Sukosol Clapp, while the elegant teak pavilions used for in-house restaurant Chon were originally sourced by Thai silk king Jim Thompson. B16,300 ($654) upwards.

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B42,990. Intel Core i5 1.6GHz processor, 4GB of RAM, 128GB flash storage.

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