The battle of mirrorless cameras.

This is an exciting showdown because it’s a brand new category for digital cameras. Dubbed mirrorless cameras, their bodies are the size of a compact, but you can change the lenses (although these remain fairly bulky so forget about putting them in your pocket). But what really matters is inside: these cameras have much bigger sensors than a compact. Bigger sensors produce better pictures in low light and also a cool, arty effect—plenty of background blur when shooting portraits or food for example. (Use their HD video capabilities and things get really exciting, with a real cinema look.) Let’s look at the contenders’ fortes:

Samsung NX100

• Its body has the perfect shape and size to fit snugly in your hand. The Sony is designed for the hand of a six-year-old.
• All the manual knobs and controls of a serious camera. The Sony offering is more like a cheap compact’s.
• An intuitive interface that makes good use of the aforementioned controls. The NEX-5 interface is the most poorly designed we’ve seen in ages.

Sony NEX-5

• Stylish metal-finish body that turns heads—really.
• Compatibility with a wide range of lenses from Sony and Minolta. Samsung’s range is very limited.
• Slightly wider angle than the Samsung.
• The NEX-5’s white balance outperformed the NX100 in our field tests. (Shoot RAW and this won’t matter.)
• Comes with a fiddly external flash you have to screw in. The Samsung doesn’t even have a flash but it does have a standard flash bracket if you want to add one.
• Better low-light shooting capacity thanks to its optical stabilizer and slightly higher max ISO.

Verdict: The Sony comes out on top in just about every department except handling. Unfortunately, these marginal wins can’t make up for its catastrophic controls: think Ferrari engine in a Yaris. The Samsung, on the other hand, retains all the controls of a classic camera, so that enthusiasts will get big single-lens reflex sensations (and results) without the bulk. Throw in a 30mm f/2 lens and the Samsung NX100 could be the coolest mirrorless camera since the Leica.

Samsung NX100, price TBA. Try Samsung, 3/F, Siam Paragon. www.samsungimaging.com
Sony NEX5, B24,990. Try Sony Style, 3/F, Siam Paragon or online store http://my.sony.co.th/shopping. www.sony.co.th

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Under the emergency decree, the CRES can ban any media it deems a threat to national security.

WEB

According to Global Voices Advocacy (http://advocacy.globalvoicesonline.org), Thailand has, to date, blocked at least 113,000 websites deemed to pose a threat to national security. To break this down, the Ministry of Information and Communication Technology (MICT) and the Center for the Resolution of Emergency Situations (CRES) admitted to blocking 48,000 websites in May, 50,000 in June and July, plus constantly adding 500 more to the list every day. By simply compiling press releases from the government, Freedom Against Censorship Thailand (FACT) puts it at 210,000 blocked websites.

PRINT

The two main Red Shirt-related publications, Red News and Truth Today, have been banned since May. The fortnightly publication Voice of Taksin was replaced by Red Power, because its founder managed to obtain a license before the state of emergency. But Red Power was then banned, too.

TELEVISON & RADIO

People Channel (PTV) was blocked by Thai cable operators. A new station, Asia Update, has been set up to replace it (http://www.asiaupdate.tv/). It does not touch on politics because it risks censorship under the emergency decree. According to Reporters without Borders, dozens of community radio stations have also been ordered to stop broadcasting and some 35 journalists have been prosecuted for inciting listeners to demonstrate.

Plus: A look at some politically-charged exhibitions and the top Thai attacks on art.

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Wall > War

Through Oct 31
At BACC, BTS National Stadium

Actress-turned-artist Wannaphon “Sai” Chimbanchong documents political Facebook statuses and toilet poems through graffiti art, installation and ceramic. BTS National Monument

Manohra and Best Friends of the Snake

Through Oct 24, at 100 Tonson Gallery, Soi Tonson, BTS Chit Lom
Contemporary artist Sakarin Krue-on allegorizes the current social discordance through a short film, paintings and photographs. Soi Tonson

Rupture-Cause and Effect

Nov 25-Jan 9, 2011
At BACC, BTS National Stadium

Bangkok-based French-Chinese photographer Olivier Pin-Fat, along with five other artists, roll out a series of images captured during the May aftermath.


Under the emergency decree, the CRES can ban any media it deems a threat to national security. More on the State of Censorship.

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Artistic expression in the wake of the Red Shirt rallies.

Thailand—and perhaps Bangkok, most of all—has been traumatized by the demonstrations and military crackdown that killed 91 people and left parts of downtown in smoldering ruins a few months ago. Perhaps because of our disapointment with politics, or because of increasing censorship, there’s a feeling that this trauma isn’t being addressed by the media. That has made artists incredibly important voices for the past few months. Here, we speak to some moderate artists and a couple of resolutely anti-red ones, too. We’d have spoken to hardcore reds to balance things out but their absence in the capital, or silence (see our boxes on censorship), speaks quite loudly. Finally, we ask if art is a way to go beyond color politics and elevate us to something better and higher than what the yellow/red divide can offer.

Teerawat “Kage” Mulwilai

With his latest performance Flu-O-Less-Sense, seasoned actor/director and B-Floor founder Teerawat “Kage” Mulwilai revisited the media’s portayal of the Apr-May 2010 events both from pro- and anti-government perspectives. Taking a break from work on a sequel to his acclaimed production, Kage shares his take on artistic, social and political issues.

Explain your performce.
Flu-O-Less-Sense talks about this contagious disease which induces the state of senselessness. It’s a performance without script, well, unless you call gibberish script! I used a lot of visuals to help get my points across. News clippings were projected onto the stage’s floor and on screen. I wanted to make the audiences feel as if they were in those scenes from the news, and therefore part of the situation. It also dealt with the messages we received from the media. Like it or not, we were all involved one way or another. I wanted to portray things as they are, or at least, as portrayed by the government and TV channels like ASTV and Red Shirt TV. Who would you choose to believe when everybody tried to portray themselves in their best light possible? The performance wasn’t biased, because I laid it all out there. The show ran parallel with the Thai context. We raised questions and it was up to the audiences to find hidden symbols.

What was the audience’s reaction?
They said they found it quite extreme, like a punch in the face! They said it made them feel like they were back in May and the few months leading up to the clash. You know, that overwhelming feeling of not knowing who to trust, what news channel to believe. I really had no answers for the audience. I can’t wait for them to see the sequel, which will be called Flu-All-Right. But is it really alright? We’ll see.

Do you ever practice self-censorship?
No. I do cringe sometimes, though, during rehearsals. For example, when I was doing the show called Sun Dan Ka, which talks about Anupong Chantorn’s notorious paintings depicting monks with beaks, I thought it was a bit much. But then I told myself that I wasn’t doing it just for the sake of being controversial; I had a point to make. Also, the kind of people who come to see my works are usually the understanding kind—more progressive, if you will. So, I don’t really have anything to worry about. Diversity of thoughts should be encouraged, not restricted. I strongly believe that the “We Love Bangkok” campaign is just propaganda. They miss the mark completely. Thai people are not school students who need to be told to love the country. It’s worrying that something as basic as common sense has to be taught and advertised in our country.

Were you always political?
I’ve always been working on social and political issues. My productions tackle all kinds of issues from sexuality to the Holocaust. But at the end of the day, each production has the goal of provoking thought. I doubt that democracy actually works, because from my experience of living and working in several countries, politicians are the same everywhere. If it’s meant to work, then how come people seem to constantly go against the government?

Who holds the truth: artists or politicians?
At the end of the day, I’m still just one of the many Thai people who has every right to express my opinion. Artists are perhaps a bit more special because they are capable of presenting their thoughts and ideas in a non-obvious way. My work doesn’t usually provide the answer. It makes people ponder on the matter.

Vasan Sitthiket

At 53 years old, veteran artist/poet Vasan Sitthiket remains passionate about politics. Best known for his controversial, satirical works, Vasan recently expressed his opinions on the May clash in “17-19 May 1992” and “19 May 2010,” shown at the Akko Art Gallery’s 20/20 exhibition which ended last month.

What do your paintings mean?
They’re an analogy to one another and are pretty self-explanatory. People tend to think that my exhibitions, particularly the “Ten Evil Scenes of Thai Politics,” which was showing during the beginning of the red protests, was aimed at Thaksin, but actually it came from my accumulated displeasure with the government. I painted “Blood Rain” [currently on display at Return Ticket: Thailand-Germany, see +art page 40] to let the politicians know that we know what they’re up to. It’s almost like a plea, if you will, for them not to corrupt this country any further than they have already.

Ever practiced self-censorship?
Never. The artist’s duty is to be a voice for the public. The state of censorship can’t touch artistic expression. However, we have to be careful as some groups of people will use freedom of speech as a disguise, or with ulterior motives. It’s not an individual, it’s a process, and the victims have always been the people. We’re in the 21st century and there’s really no need for censorship. People will eventually find out if you leave certain things out. I know I don’t need to be censored. It all depends on what your motives are. I’m doing all this to speak out for the public. Some claim to do it for the democracy, when in fact it’s for Thaksin. I think our country has a lot of freedom—crazy freedom. We just need to learn to make use of that freedom and make it politically correct—so to speak. We’re at the verge of doom, and unfortunately those in power are not wise enough to salvage the situation.

What was the audience’s reaction?
With the color separation, people have become noticeably more sensitive about my works. But c’est la vie. I’ve got to say what I’ve got to say. There’s no point beating around the bush. If people cringe when they see my work, so be it. The concept of kreng jai, most of the time, backfires in Thai society. People are too afraid of being blunt, which is not a good thing.

How did you first get involved in political art?
I grew up just after the clashes between the students and army on October 14 in 1973, when the thinkers and writers re-emerged from their hiding places. I’ve always been an artist who’s determined to document our country’s political and social changes and development. I’ve always been involved with mobs and rallies for as long as I can remember. As an artist, you’re somewhat obligated to poke your nose into matters. I believe that artists should also act like journalists.

Can artists really change society?
I was involved in a lot of demonstrations to get rid of dishonest politicians. I brutally criticized them through the best ways I know; by making art and writing poems allegorizing them as animals. We elect people to run the country on our behalf, not rob us of resources for their personal gain. I’ve always considered myself anti-government because, in my opinion, state power is the people’s arch enemy. We need morally decent people to run our country, not a bunch of crooks. To me, our parliament is nothing but a thief’s lair. All this was reflected through my works titled “New Bangkok Skyline,” which were a series of satirical election posters for the fictitious Artist Party, aimed to take a jab at Thai Rak Thai’s populism back in 2008. Democracy can never happen in a society where the people in power abuse and spoil the system.

What’s the difference between art and politics?
To me they’re one and the same. I’m not above politics; I’m all about politics.

Sakarin Krue-on

A regular at major international art events like the Venice Biennale, Maehongsorn-native artist Sakarin Krue-on returns to his home turf with Manorah and Best Friends of the Snake, an exhibition combining a short film, paintings and images. Here, the Silapathon Award winner tells us about his political stance.

What does the show mean?
This particular exhibition came from a project called “Two men look out through the same bars: one sees the mud and one sees the star.” It talks about the current situation in our country, using a series of symbols. It focuses on two polarizing ideas, stars obviously mean something idealistic whereas mud is something undesirable. People perceive things differently and that is the core of our problem. People today tend to forget their own identity and follow others without thinking. I won’t reveal all the metaphors, though, the rest is up to you to explore.

Have you ever left something out for fear of the authorities?
Yes, but I never ditch the idea completely. We artists seem to manage to get away with it most of the time. Since the art scene in Thailand is quite small, we also get censored by society and art critics.

What was the audience’s reaction?
Someone came up to me and told me that they appreciated the fact that I managed to make such a sensitive issue lighter and easier to digest. The exhibition spoke for them in a way. The audience’s smiles at the end of the show are a great sign, because I know that they got my message. I mean, you could easily get into a big fight if you sat and talked about this kind of thing with someone.

Do you think you’ve always been political or you’ve been forced to speak up because of recent events?
I’ve always been outspoken about politics. I often tap into the concept of “equal opportunity,” which seems to be prevalent in every form of politics, whether it is communist, Marxist or democracy. Democracy, to me, is dictatorship of the majority, which leads to capitalism. I came up with Manorah because I want to portray what’s currently happening in our society. It’s still a shock to me what happened back in May and I am still really surprised that no one didn’t try to stop it or prevent it from happening.

What’s the difference between artistic and political expression?
As an artist I see no difference. Art is freedom of expression. Countries in which art flourishes are usually the ones that are open to ideas. I’m not above politics, but if I have something to say, then I’ll say it. That’s an artist’s job. You can predict what our society will be like in the next ten years from the art we see today.

Olivier Pin-Fat

Known for his realistic and gritty portrayal of methamphetamine addicts in an exhibition titled Ya Ba, Olivier Pin-Fat is an England-born, French-Chinese photographer. His exhibition “Bangkok.Aftermath,” will be displayed as part of the joint exhibition Rupture—Cause and Effect, held from Nov 25-Jan 9, 2011 at the Bangkok Art and Culture Center.

How do these pictures provide a new reading of the May events?
The images were taken during the course of one-day only—Friday, May 21. I’ve been living in my adopted city of Bangkok for 17 years now. During Thailand’s recent political “rupture,” I found myself getting increasingly frustrated by the mainstream media’s portrayal of the protests. I felt very strongly that the complexity of what was occurring, and why, was—photographically speaking—being over-simplified and flattened into a monosyllabic aesthetic of iconic stereotypes. The Western media in particular was, and is, guilty of perpetuating and disseminating these almost Biblical archetypes. I felt many photojournalists who covered events for the media unwittingly utilized a more biased, romanticized and sometimes clichéd visual language. Images that were quickly understood yet took a subtle pro-Red Shirt position.

What’s the objective?
The works (31 images from this series) will be shown at the Bangkok Art and Culture Center, alongside two Thai artists, one German, one French and one Sino-British. It’s a cohesive but deeply disturbing and blistered visual stream of consciousness that looks beyond media bias and directly into the dark heart of the matter. It creates a sense of remembrance—lest we forget. We feel that Thai society is somewhat reluctant to face the recent past, and so this is our way to introduce something to and for the Thai general public that will hopefully raise questions to facilitate debate and discussion. It will get a lot of exposure, and this is very important. A sense of collective healing really needs to take place, so history doesn’t endlessly repeat itself, and if we can contribute in any way, through art or through any other means, then we must try.

Do you feel that you’re a political artist?
I think everyone is political in some way or another. It’s human nature. I tend to avoid political discussions that have recently and maddeningly been polarized into these ‘red or yellow’ and ‘there is no other color’ camps. A journalist recently accused me of being staunchly yellow for not being pro-red. If you’re not ‘this’ then it means you’re ‘that.’ I’m not defined by a two-toned color scheme. It can all get very infuriating.

Do we need artists to comment on politics?
It all depends on the artistic commentary being presented, doesn’t it? That can range from the banal to the timeless. It’s all relevant but not all necessarily effective. Look at Picasso’s Guernica in response to the bombing of the Basque country during the Spanish Civil War. Yes, I tend to avoid political commentary as I often find the sophism is self-serving and transparently so. I tend to disbelieve politicians. That said, there have been some great, visionary and impassioned political leaders in history, like Martin Luther King Jr.

MANIT SRIWANICHPOOM

Manit Sriwanichpoom, of Pink Man fame, has long criticized Thailand’s entrenched elitism and consumerism. But for him, the Red Shirts were not fighting for a new system.

Are you working on anything as a reaction to the protests?
It’s very difficult to react so soon. I’m in trauma. You have to gradually process all the elements in your consciousness. It’s a loss of direction. Like getting hit by a car.

Do you worry about increased censorship?
People say the climate of censorship is getting stronger. But I think the question is, “What are we doing? What is the purpose of doing that?” If we want to criticize the government, say anything to undermine any side, I think it is too soon. I agree with Abhisit that the government needs reform. But what is happening to the reform committee set up by Abhisit? It’s like a bunch of old people brainstorming—but this shouldn’t be about old men. Everybody should be involved. Thailand has to change, but people in power have to sacrifice and decentralize. We tried in the 1997 and in 2007 constitutions. But decentralization was never implemented.

But how can the conversation take place if everyone isn’t allowed to speak?
We can talk about reform. But accusations will take us nowhere. People died and the government needs to investigate that. Maybe some people were not just killed by the army? What if the Reds killed each other to prompt international intervention? If we still are talking about this we go nowhere. What’s the point of accusing each other. We’re going in circles. I don’t want to talk about this. What interests me is how Abhisit will start reform and how it will happen. I hope that the media can play a key role pushing reform. The Western media just hooked up with this [blame] game. We want real change. I want the media to be part of change, not part of the game.

Are you angry?
I’m annoyed now. I ask: can you tell me something substantial? Not blah blah blah. If you want change tell us what you want. Don’t just tie ribbons at an intersection. You want to change the government? You just change the head. The body is the same. It’s rotten. This is a 150-year old problem. We need reform.

State of Censorship

The Top Thai Attacks on Art

Politically-charged exhibitions

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1. Syndromes and a Century (2006)

When the Board of Censors ordered scenes from his movie cut, Apichatpong chose to replace them with silent, black screens of the same duration as the cut scenes, creating long moments for viewers to be painfully aware of their absence. He said the police were so worried he would not make the cuts, he had to actually leave the cut footage on the floor, in their office. What did it contain? A monk playing the guitar and doctors drinking alcohol in a hospital. Syndromes and a Century was voted best movie of 2007 by Newsweek, and of the decade by the Toronto International Film Festival. Apichatpong won the Cannes Festival Palme d’Or this year for Uncle Boonmee Who Can Recall His Past Lives. Apichatpong is still critical of Thailand’s present situation and is the victim of slander by pro-government forces.

2. Doo Phra (2007)

When Siam Cement awarded its prestigious Young Artist Award to Warthit Sembut, it landed itself in hot water. His paintings depicted monks engaging in unbecoming activities, handling jewels at a market, or in grotesque poses. A month before that, the 2007 National Artist Award had gone to Anupong Chanthorn’s painting Bhikku Sandan Ka, which depicted monks afflicted with giant black beaks surrounded by crows. The award caused an uproar and protests drawing hundreds, although Silapakorn did not back down. Siam Cement Group did. Arguing that as a private organization they could not risk upsetting anyone, SCG decided to not show Warthit’s paintings. Infuriated, and with the support of artists like Vasan and Manit, the young painter returned his award.

3. AYODHYA (2006)

In one of the most deliciously bizarre cases of censorship, acclaimed conductor and composer Somtow Sucharitkul was asked to change the staging of Ayodhya, an opera he had composed in honor of HM the King. At the time, the Ministry of Culture claimed that Somtow’s intention to have Tosakan die on stage would be a terrible omen that could bring the government down, or worse. Somtow compromised by dimming the lights to represent the mythical demon’s death. Still the Ministry of Culture presented him with a contract saying they could shut the whole thing down, mid-performance, if they ever felt there was a violation of Thai morals. Despite this, Somtow has said he feels, as an artist, freer now than under Thaksin.

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The Thai chef of French fine dining

French restaurant Bonjour (1217/2 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-714-2112) insists that even its water be imported from France. And yet, when their veteran French chef left them earlier this year, Bonjour simply promoted its 27-year-old sous-chef, Siwametr Boonyarittiwong, to replace him. As he rolls out an ambitious new foie gras menu (foie gras soup, anyone?), we ask Siwametr if customers choked on their baguette when the fresh-faced Thai took the kitchen’s helm.

How did people deal with you replacing a seasoned French chef?
They mostly noticed because I changed the menu. Besides, it’s the owner’s job to do the explaining. I think clients were happy with the food but surprised. Some were even a bit reticent.

Do you think this could have been possible a few years ago?
Well, this generation of Thai chefs is new. I’m from the first class of the Vatel Institute. The Cordon Bleu is pretty recent, too. So everyone in my kitchen is 26 or 27, like me, and they’ve been trained at these schools and the Silpakorn Hotel School and we get along really well. It’s great.

Why are you doing this foie gras menu?
I’ve been cooking professionally for four years, and it’s one the first products I worked with. Everyone eats it pan-fried here, so I wanted to show you can do more with foie gras. It can be used like butter, like cream, you can change its texture from a foam to a mousse, and you don’t need to add gelatin. So if you mix it with chocolate, for example, it’s great, you don’t need to add anything else.

Did you develop these recipes yourself?
Sure. I read a lot, I watch a lot of videos. But these recipes are mine. Like with the foie gras soup, I was trying to make a sauce, and it ended up being too liquid. So I said, let’s do a soup. And I added oysters because everyone always expects sweet stuff with foie gras, but the salt actually cuts through the fattiness.

What makes a good foie?
You want smaller ones, with a nice eggshell color and very few veins inside. A good foie won’t lose its fat when you pan-fry it. It should be sweet, but not too sweet. We use Rougie Grande Cuisine, which is the best there is—only three places in town use it.

Is it hard to work with foie gras?
The slightest change in temperature can completely change the consistency so we have to use devices like the Thermomix to mix the foie at precisely controlled temperatures. Then I even run it through a chinois (a fine mesh strainer) for even greater homogeneity.

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Buffet

Flow’s Cheese Room

Flow’s impressive international selection of 20+ cheeses kept at cellar temperature makes up for the cheese butler who can go back to cheese school. B950 is all it takes for access to this all-you-can-eat sanctum. Available Fri-Sat for dinner (6pm-11pm) and Sun for the brunch (11am-3pm). For an extra B650, get five glasses of wine matched with the cheeses.
Millenium Hilton Hotel, 123 Charoennakorn Rd., 02-442-2000. Open Daily 6-11pm.

Iso

The Nai Lert Park’s loud, familial brunch continues to offer, for a mere B1,200, one of the best selection of cheeses on any Sunday 11:30am-3pm.
Nai Lert Park, Witthayu (Wireless) Rd., near MRT Lumphini, 02-253-0123. Open daily 6-10:30am, 11:30am-10:30pm.

Colonnade

Since the Sukhothai revamped their Sunday brunch (noon-4pm), their cheese selection has become a serious contender for the crown of “Best in Town.” At this price, B1,950, it better.
G/F, Sukhothai Bangkok, 13/3 South Sathorn Rd., 02-344-8888. Open daily 6am-midnight.

Mistral

French hotel group Accor’s Sofitel has recently upgraded its cheese selection, too. The Mistral B700 buffet has a tight but near-perfect selection of perfectly aged cheese whether for lunch or dinner.
2/F, Sofitel Silom, 188 Silom Road, 02-238-1991. Open daily 6-10:30am, 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm.

A La Carte

Angelini

B290 cheese plate with 6 Italian cheeses.
Shangri-La Hotel Bangkok, 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu, Charoen Krung Rd., 02-236-7777.

Le Beaulieu

Around 30 types of French and Italian cheeses. Plate of 3 cheeses, B380, 6 cheeses B750. Once a month, they hold a cheese night (B2,500), an all-you-can-eat buffet of 60 types of cheese and free flow of red and white wine.
Sofitel Residence, 50 Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-204-2004.

Bei Otto

B560 assorted platter of Northern European cheeses.
1 Sukhumvit Soi 20, 02-262-0892, 02-260-0869.

Chesa

B350 platter of four Swiss and French cheeses. B480 for fondue or raclette.
5 Sukhumvit Soi 20, 02-261-6650.

Gianni Ristorante

A trolley of 4-7 Italian cheeses, B490/plate.
34/1 Soi Tonson, Ploen Chit Rd., 02-252-1619.

Le Normandie

A trolley with a selection of around 10 French cheeses that changes daily. B750/plate. Lunch: plate of 3 pieces, B400
The Oriental Hotel, 48 Oriental Avenue Rd., 02-659-9000.

Terra Roku

Five Italian cheeses. B150 for 1 piece, B350 for 3 pieces, B450 for 5 pieces.
Grand Millenium, 30 Sukhumvit Soi 21, Sukhumvit, 02-204-4000.

Zanotti

B480 plate of 6 Italian ­cheeses.
1/F, Saladaeng Colonnade Condominium, 21/1 Soi Sala Daeng, Silom Rd., 02-636-0002.

PLUS: Seven cheeses and what you should know about them

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That’s cheese, in French.

1. Bread. Baguette is France’s most neutral bread but not your only option. Stronger cheeses can go head to head with darker, more rugged breads. We’ll even go so far as to indulge in bread with walnuts but try to stick to real bread with a strong, crispy crust and irregular, fragrant dough.

2. Condiments. The French don’t do jam, sun-dried tomatoes and all that jazz. Nuts are acceptable as many cheeses have hazelnut notes to begin with. Walnuts and pears are also good accompaniments to Roquefort. But hey, never let the French tell you what to do.

3. Roquefort is made from ewe’s milk (a female sheep). It’s the strongest cheese on this plate—a sharp, complex king of cheeses. Apart from Brin d’Amour, all the other cheeses on this plate are made from cow’s milk, but goat’s milk makes great cheese, too.

4. Reblochon. Most French cheeses don’t like getting cooked, unlike this Alpine favorite. Put on potatoes, bacon, cream and onions, bake, enjoy, gain 10lbs.

5. Camembert raises the essential question of aging. Cheese is not always ready to be eaten when you buy it and your fridge is too cold to let it mature. Like wine, your cheese needs to breathe at cellar temperature (12-16 degrees). Make sure your Camembert is in a near liquid state before you eat it. Otherwise, it will have a floury texture and less flavor.

6. Coulommier is not an AOC cheese, which is rare. AOC, which also works for wine, is a French standard that ascribes a particular food to one region. Bordeaux can only be made in the Bordelais region, Champagne can only be made in Champagne, Brie, in Brie, etc. Coulommier’s taste lies somewhere between Camembert and Brie.

7. Although cheeses have very different flavors, you can still broadly categorize them from mild (a fresh goat’s milk cheese) to extremely strong (a mature, delightful sticky and stinky Epoisses). With this plate, we’d start with this Corsican Brin d’Amour, made from Ewe’s milk and rolled in juniper and rosemary, as it was still a bit young.

8. This Brie has truffles in it. All kinds of stuff get stuffed into cheese but, frankly, it’s silly. Cheese is great to stuff food, not the other way around.

9. Mimolette is a flavorful cow’s milk cheese from Northern France that resembles Dutch cheeses. It’s a hard cheese and can get rock hard as it ages, taking on a increasingly sharp flavor with hazelnut accents.

Where to get good cheese

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