Even without the hype about the as-yet-unopened Joel Robuchon restaurant at Mahanakhon, this has been a pretty crazy year for
Bangkok’s fine-dining scene. We got two new restaurants with three-Michelin-star affiliations—J’Aime and Vogue—and two with one-Michelin-star cred—Ginza Sushi Ichi and Savelberg. Not that we’re obsessed with Michelin. Paolo Vitaletti (of Appia) opening Peppina was just as exciting than any of the aforementioned imports, as was Fillets, whose chef trained with Masaharu Morimoto, of the original Japanese Iron Chef fame. So here are the most likely entries for Top Tables 2015, which will be out in March 2015.

See also: Top Tables 2014


Thai

Osha

The buzz: Through a theatrical entrance that depicts the monkey god Hanuman eating the moon, you get to one of this year’s most elaborate dining rooms, at which Iron Chef presenter Thanintorn Chantrawan serves an ambitious menu of reinvented Thai classics. They also serve what’s possibly Bangkok’s most expensive pad krapow at B1,500.
In the plate: A high-wired pairing of molecular techniques and Thai comfort food. Thanintorn produces a memorable culinary experience by applying contemporary techniques to enhance flavors. In the goong chae nam pla (B380), for example, liquid nitrogen is used to cleanse prawns of any unwanted fishiness, while chili turned into a granita provides fiery spice that’s also refreshing.
The verdict: Aside from a few headline-grabbing dishes, Osha’s food is actually very reasonable, especially for somewhere so hip and theatrical. The cocktails are also excellent.
 
99 Witthayu (Wireless) Rd., 02-256-6555. Open daily 11am-2:30pm, 6pm-midnight
 

Siam Wisdom

The buzz: This partnership between actor Chakrit Yamnam and celebrity chef Chumpol Jangprai (Blue Elephant, Anantara) is one of the biggest
Thai openings of the year. Rather than choosing between authenticity or invention, Chumpol has created three menus: ancient, classic and innovative.
In the plate: Stand-out and rare dishes include the homemade sai kork pla nam (ancient pork sausage), gaeng buan (herbal soup with pork intestines) and khao tok with nam pueng duen ha (roasted rice with honey collected at the end of the dry season). The “innovative” options throw some fusion into the mix with dishes like namtok with rib-eye steak and parmesan taco shell (B280) and duck confit with chili paste (B580). If you want to sample a range of flavors, drop by for the lunchtime à la carte menu as dinnertime is reserved for the set menu (B1,800 for 12 courses) only.
Verdict: As anyone who watches Iron Chef will tell you, Chumpol knows his stuff. At Siam Wisdom, he puts his money where his mouth is.
 
66 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-260-7811-2. Open daily noon-2pm, 6-10:30pm. MRT Sukhumvit/BTS Asoke
 
 
 

Benjarong

The buzz: It’s hard to overstate the importance of Danish Chef Morten Nielsen, even though you don’t hear about him nearly often as the Bo.lan team or David Thompson (we’ll take the blame for that). Nielsen was at the helm of Siam Kempinski’s Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin, a spin-off of Copenhagen’s one-star-Michelin Kiin Kiin. As such, he was the only one in Bangkok doing molecular Thai food, and one of the very few doing ultra-finedining Thai cuisine, right up there with Nahm and Bo.lan. He got poached by Dusit Thani, and now he’s overseeing the Thai cuisine for the entire group, including the good ol’ Benjarong in Bangkok, which he’s revamped, even if it’s not to Sra Bua levels of molecular madness.
In the plate: Nielsen does a great job of retaining an authentically Thai taste despite the refined, European-influenced presentation. For a good taste of what he’s doing, order the seasonal three-course Aromatic Journey menu (B1,100 or B1,900 with wine pairing). Of the à la carte menu, standout dishes include the 24-hour braised lamb shank in massaman curry (B690) and crispy sweet pork ribs and salted sriracha cabbage (B320).
The verdict: More Thais should come to Benjarong and be surprised at what Chef Morten has to offer.
 
G/F, Dusit Thani, 946 Rama 4 Rd., 02-200-9000. Mon-Fri noon-2:30pm, 6-10pm; Sat-Sun 6-10pm. BTS Sala Daeng/ MRT Silom
 

Italian

Lenzi

The buzz: This refined-yet-homey Tuscan restaurant on Ruamrudee comes from the former head chef of Medici at Muse Hotel, Frencesco Lenzi, and focuses on traditional fare from Northern Italy.
In the plate: Make sure you try the cured ham from Antica Norcineriaone, which belongs to Lenzi’s uncle. To get a taste of everything, go for medium-sized Tagliere del Lenzi (B790). For more comforting and substantial fare, order gnocchi with gorgonzola cheese (B420), or pan fried pork cappicola (B720), which are both finished in a wood-fired oven for maximum flavor.
The verdict: Lenzi’s upscale Tuscan fare is one of the highlights of 2014’s boom in region-specific Italian food.
Ruamrudee Soi 2, Wireless Rd., 02-001-0116. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-midnight
 
 

Attico

The buzz: After working at one of Bangkok’s most reliable Italian restaurants—La Bottega Di Luca—Dario Busnelli has moved to the new Radisson Blu hotel, where he serves dishes that contrast Italy’s North and South in an inviting dining room.
In the plate: There are some really wonderful antipasti which we’ve yet to try anywhere else in Bangkok, from Lombardy salami to mufatto (cheese wrapped in walnut leaf) and ubriaco (a cheese soaked in raboso wine and aged for at least 12 months). Much of the food is big and unpretentious, like the 1.3kg Australian wagyu tomahawk steak (B3,990) with roast potatoes, grilled vegetables and truffle-infused red wine shallot reduction.
The verdict: Prices are quite high but so are the standards. We also like the rustic presentation that’s still refined enough to feel special.
 
28/F, Radisson Blu, 27 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-302-3333. Open daily 6-11pm. MRT Sukhumvit/BTS Asoke
 

Peppina

The buzz: Chef Paolo Vitaletti’s Appia ranked fourth in Top Tables 2014, so frankly, there isn’t much suspense as to whether his pizza joint is going to make it into Top Tables 2015. Expectations were high, though, and there was some initial grumbling that the pizza, while delicious, wasn’t crispy to the point of brittleness (the way it is at Sukhothai’s Scala). Well, that’s just not how you’re meant to make Neapolitan pizza, we’re told. The center should be moist and tender—though not soggy, of course.
In the plate: Textural debates aside, the dough’s flavor is incomparable, thanks to a lengthy fermentation process, and the toppings are both fresh and flavorful. Even the humble Margharita (starting B200) is a must-try. Do also tuck into some grilled meats—Vitaletti really excels at carne—such as grilled baby lamb chops sourced from Pak Chong (B590).
The verdict: The space—exposed beams, bare cement floors and walls, dangling light bulbs and blocky Scandinavian furniture—the constantly packed dining room (book in advance) and the affordable food make Peppina pretty irresistible.
 
27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-119-7677. Open Tue-Sun 6:30-11pm
 
 

Sensi

The buzz: Opus is a huge favorite with the fine-dining crowd—to the point where all its chefs go on to open their own places. Just like Francesco Lenzi, Italian chef Christian Martena is now doing his own thing at Sensi, an old house even more sleek and luxurious than Opus.
In the plate: Martena’s primary focus is on high-quality ingredients, mainly sourced from France and Italy, such as the stracciatella cheese from Andria and foie gras from France. You can try them as part of the brief à la carte menu, which also includes dishes like beef tartar smoked with cherry wood (B520) and risotto infused in merlot wine served with homemade sausage and red grapes reduction (B560). They also offer a seven-course set menu (B2,690) with dishes like delicious burratina cheese served with fresh artichoke and balsamic caviar and ravioli stuffed with ricotta spinach and egg with black truffle
and parmesan air.
The verdict: Lots of imported produce, lots of truffle—this would be textbook Italian fine-dining if it weren’t for the occasional molecular technique.
 
Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Soi 17, 02-117-1618. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-midnight
 

Bars and Brasseries

Vogue Lounge

The buzz: Is it a bar? Is it a restaurant? Frankly, the verdict’s still out, but what is certain is that the food—although tinily portioned—is excellently executed. The chef, Vincent Thierry, comes from Hong Kong’s two-Michelin-starred Caprice restaurant. They’re calling him a three-star chef, which is partially true since Thierry led his team in Hong Kong to a third star in 2009. It’s also a properly elegant space, and has an outdoor air-conditioning system which, while no doubt a plague on the environment, makes this the comfiest outdoor lounge in Sathorn.
In the plate: The Japanese wagyu sirloin with black truffle potato and bone marrow butter, and onsen egg yolk with sea urchin espuma and pork knuckle stew are particularly amazing. We did think the price of B350 per dish (savory) was pretty expensive until someone pointed out that, if you order all ten, you’ll have an unbeatable tasting menu for B3,500.
Verdict: Don’t be put off by the brand; the food is something special. (But you might want to fill up at Dean & DeLuca after.)
 
6/F, Mahanakhon Cube, Narathiwas Rd., 02-001-0697. Open daily 10am till late. BTS Chong Nonsi
 
 

Vesper

The buzz: There’s a definite New York chic thing going on here—think Minibar or Hyde & Seek—and the barrel-aged cocktails are worthy of the hippest bars in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. But Vesper isn’t just a very cool bar with a phlegmatic Scottish bartender. Its kitchen is helmed by Chef Luca Appino of respected Italian restaurant La Bottega di Luca (Sukhumvit Soi 49), which nearly made the Top 10 in Top Tables 2014.
In the plate: Get started with parma ham, sundried tomatoes and burrata cheese (B1,290 for 350 grams/B1,490 for 500 grams) before tucking into the ossobuco (braised veal shank with red wine and mash potatoes, B790).
Verdict: A bit pricey, making us partial to the two-or-three courses (starting B350/450) set lunch and the very cool happy hour where B300 gets you a cocktail and some tasty nibbles like the crispy pizzetta.
 
10/15 Convent Rd., 02-235-2777. Open Mon-Thu 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-midnight; Fri 11:30am-2:30pm,5:30pm-1am; Sat 5:30pm-1am; Sun 5:30pm-midnight. BTS Sala Daeng
 
 

Raw Bar

The buzz: The owner, Lalita Bautet of Bouchot Restaurant (Sukhumvit Soi 24), initially opened the small counter-like Belon Oyster & Raw Bar on the ground-floor of Seenspace last year, before expanding to incorporate a full menu, here. The décor resembles a ship below decks, albeit a well-stocked one, and the food demonstrates that, yes, there is an art to raw food.
The food: On top of the wide selection of fresh oysters (from B125), expect global recipes celebrating all things uncooked: carpaccio (starting B360 for seared tuna), tartarki (B660 for wagyu striploin) and ceviche (B380 for tuna). For the raw averse, there are also cooked dishes like the angel hair Canadian lobster arabiata (starting B1,650 for 700g).
The verdict: Simple and simply delicious, with a very handsome space to boot.
 
440/9 Thonglor Soi 14, 02-713-8335. Open daily 5:30pm-1am
 
 

The Capital by Water Library

The buzz: Barely a month of 2014 went by without more news from Water Library, whether it was a new restaurant opening or the revamp of an existing branch. But this steakand-seafood-focused brasserie slap-bang in the middle of Sathorn is perhaps the most exciting.
In the plate: Don’t expect spectacular molecular techniques or out-of-this-world presentation. The menu is simple and satisfying: cuts of beef, platters of seafood, fillets of fish. On the most elaborate end of the scale is Kamichiku wagyu (starting at B1,400 for A2 striploin), but you can also get a generous 350g slab of Thailand-bred, grass-fed Angus rib eye for B980.
The verdict: The food isn’t as elaborate as Chamchuri Square or Grass Thonglor (currently under renovation), but that’s not always a bad thing.
 
3/F, Empire Tower, Sathorn Rd., 02- 286-9548. Open daily 11:30am-11pm. BTS Chong Nonsi
 

Fine Dining

Savelberg

The buzz: Dutch chef Henk Savelberg has won four Michelin stars in four different restaurants, and now says he wants to establish an “ultrafine-dining” culture in Thailand. To do so, he’s closed his eponymous restaurant at The Hague and moved here.
In the plate: Simple yet elaborate. We loved his half-cooked langoustine served with parmesan mousse, pata negra ham and an intense clarified tomato consomme (B1,550). His approach can be playful—especially with desserts like the hazelnut cake, coffee lacquered poached pear and lychee syrup (B750)—but his prices are deadly serious. A seven-course menu will cost B4,900, and that’s without the wine pairing.
The verdict: For those wealthy enough, we’re calling this a genuine Michelin-level experience.
 
G/F, Oriental Residence, Wireless Rd., 02-252-8001. Open Mon-Sat noon-2:30pm, 6-10pm
 
 

J’aime by Jean-Michel Lorain

The buzz: As rumors about Atelier Robuchon’s opening date continued to circle, another French three-Michelin-star chef moved into town relatively silently. Jean-Michel Lorain of the Côte Saint Jacques hotel in Burgundy, is the man behind this elegant but playful restaurant at the U Sathorn.
In the plate: Classical, elegant and with a few modern touches. To start, try the labor-intensive ocean oyster terrine with confit shallots, Irancy wine gelée and spinach (B910), a refreshing delight from the mother restaurant. For a taste of the old-school, try the onion soup with veal shank confit and Gruyère cheese (B350). If you care to share, any dish can be pre-divided onto smaller plates and then passed around on the lazy Susan.
The verdict: Good for when you don’t want too much creativity—just perfectly executed classics.
 
U Sathorn Bangkok, 105, 105/1 Soi Ngam Duphli, Sathorn Rd., 02-119-4888. Open daily 11:30am-3pm, 6-11pm
 

Japanese

Fillets

The buzz: Randy Nopprapa’s eight-seat pop-up sushi bar at Portico Langsuan has turned into this permanent restaurant doing omakase-style service (the chef decides what you eat).
In the plate: Combining superb fish with Milky Queen rice from Ibaraki prefecture, the sushi here is really worth trying—even if a full omakase course will set you back B6,000. For something more laidback, try the assorted donburi (rice bowls), made with quality toppings such as assorted raw fish (B950), Saga wagyu or local kurobuta pork (both at B1,500).
The verdict: There was a big trend for omakase sushi restaurants this year. Fillets distinguishes itself by being the most casual. Although the food is excellent, it does lack the precision of main rivals Ginza Sushi Ichi and Sushi Hinata.
3/F, Portico, 31 Lang Suan Rd., 02-652-2607. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30pm-midnight. BTS Chit Lom
 

Ginza Sushi Ichi

The buzz: After expanding to Singapore, Tokyo’s one-Michelin-star Ginza Sushi Ichi has now made a splash in Bangkok. Gaggan Anand, head chef at the number-three entry for Top Tables 2014, has given it his stamp of approval, calling it some of the best sushi he’s ever eaten.
In the plate: The chefs’ selection (B1,300/lunch, B4,000/dinner) changes according to the day’s seafood delivery, with the intention of providing the same standard all year round. One specialty includes the live Hokkaido taraba crab (starting B4,500 per crab), which is boiled, cleaned and then portioned according to the number of diners in the party.
The verdict: Not a single sushi restaurant made the top 10 in Top Tables 2014. There’s little suspense that Ginza will place somewhere next year, but how high?
 
LG/F, Erawan Bangkok, 494 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-250-0014. Open Tue-Sat noon-2:30pm, 6-11pm; Sun noon-2:30pm,6-10pm. BTS Chit Lom
 
 

Sushi Hinata

The buzz: Central Embassy’s pop at the 2014 sushi crown. This one is affiliated with a brand originally from Nagoya.
In the plate: The lunch set starts at B1,200 with appetizer, nine pieces of sushi and miso soup. There are a few à la carte options, too, like the rover eel rolls (B650) and aburi zukushi (B600), which includes assorted grilled sushi served with three kinds of fish. The fermented ginger, here, is wonderfully aromatic. The rice is firmer and less moist than you might be used to, which, they say, is more authentic.
The verdict: The biggest competition for Ginza. Everyone we speak to who’s eaten at both has their own favorite.
 
5/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-160-5935. Open daily daily 11am-10pm. BTS Phloen Chit
 

Bitchy Bites

The top 2014 openings in 140 characters or less.

Chef Somkiat “Joke” Pairojmahakij of Seven Spoons cooks up fresh produce by the river. We’ll stick to our beloved Seven Spoons, though. 
 
Ian Kittichai decided he’d go for Asian comfort food in this adorable 100-year-old house with a solid bar
on the ground floor. The man can cook—shame the place is always empty.
 
Take Hyde & Seek, move it to Groove, add the word Peek-a-Boo and voila. (Stick to the scotch eggs.)
 
It’s a tourist-trap in Paris and Groove’s branch is a pretty accurate rendition of Parisian bistro food: uninspired yet competently executed.
 
We stopped at the B150 Coke. Non
merci.
 
Our favorite opening at Groove verges on fine-dining in terms of quality and service, but keeps prices reasonable. Not bad for a chain restaurant. 
 
WATER LIBRARY BRASSERIE
With so many Water Library branches and so much bistro/brasserie food, you kind of want to
start hating their growing empire. Except their food tastes darn good, a somewhat redeeming quality in our book.
 
This Supanniga spinoff has charming decor, towering bay windows and a menu of regional Thai dishes that often dazzle. Also, the music is terrible.
 
From some of the partners behind Le Beaulieu, 661 opened with a bang, snatching chef Cyril Cocconi from Okura’s Elements. Now that he’s gone to Vogue Lounge, we haven’t been back—or met anyone who has.
 
It’s Japanese. It’s Southeast Asian. It’s chef driven. In other words, it’s way too complicated for mere mortals to wrap their heads around. Oh, and the views are amazing.
 
What a beautiful design, and how daring to open a lifestyle destination across the river, in the remote land of Thonburi. Still, starchitect Duangrit Bunnag will be remembered for his buildings, not necessarily for our last meal here.
 
Japanese rolls and a design by Be Gray (who did half the hip places in town). This one isn’t going to win any points for originality but it is one sexy place. 

 

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For all the charm of its crumbling colonial past, Yangon is one of Southeast Asia’s grittier cities (think Jakarta, with only mildly less gridlock). But as Myanmar continues its slow steps toward opening up, the former capital is becoming a boomtown for both Burmese and foreigners on the make, and a fascinating microcosm of a nation in flux. Here are at least five reasons why now’s a great time to go see the city for yourself.

1. It's never been easier

You can now get a visa online at evisa.moip.gov.mm for US$50/B1,683 per person. Make sure to apply through this official government website as there are many fake ones trying to rip you off. And there are more airlines operating the route than ever: AirAsia (www.airasia.com) offers four direct flights daily at rates from B2,820 for a round-trip. Nok Air (www.nokair.com) offers two flights daily at about B4,862 for a round-trip. 

 

2. It's not that hard to get a room

Before you visit, you’ll hear that there’s a dearth of decent accommodation in Yangon, and that the influx of overseas investors means what there is is often full. It’s true that the big hotel projects are some way from completion: Hilton and Novotel will likely not open until next year; Pan Pacific is due in 2016; and plans are afoot to eventually reopen a 40-room annex at colonial stalwart The Strand. But we had no problem getting rooms in the city on less than a week’s notice and there are already some interesting new options available. 
 
For years, the Traders was one of the few reliable, international-standard business hotels in town; and after a two-year renovation it relaunched in April 2014 as the upmarket Sule Shangri-La (#223 Sule Pagoda Rd., +95 (1) 24-2828; www.shangri-la.com/yangon/suleshangrila; rooms from US$190/B1,226). It’s certainly a convenient spot, right by the Central Railway Station, the two millennia-old Sule Pagoda and the Bogyoke Aung San Market, and only a short walk to the city’s colonial highlights. Their buffet breakfast is pretty decent too, though we also snuck round the corner to another new arrival, the Dutch-run Bar Boon (380 Bogyoke Aung San Rd., www.barboon.nl), whose uninspiring surrounds at the front of a Parkson mall belie what is currently the best coffee you’ll find in Yangon. As well as all the standards, they offer bags of single-estate Myanmar arabica for take-away for US$7.50 (B246). 
 
A short walk north, 32-room newbie The Loft Hotel (33 Yaw Min Gyi St., Dagon Township; +95 (0) 137-2299; www.theloftyangon.com) is the first (though doubtless not the last) industrial-chic accommodation option to open here. Rooms (from US$180/B5,898) in what was once a nondescript 60s warehouse are tastefully done and on-site restaurant Sasazu opens later this month. 
 
There are also an increasing number of expat apartment options on Airbnb, and with a bit of digging you can find some great deals. 
 
 
Union
 

3. The nightlife is picking up

There is now a considerably upmarket option in Union Bar and Grill (42 Strand Rd., Bohtataung; +95 (0) 94 2010-1854; www.unionyangon.com), the brainchild of UK-transplant Nico Eliot. Taking up the corner of a classy old building just down from the Strand Hotel, Union wouldn’t be at all out of place in London or New York (and, for better or worse, you can’t say that about many places in Yangon). Designed by leading local architect team SPINE, it opened in early 2013 and draws a big crowd on Fridays and Saturdays (the house band is great). House drink specials like the Bloody Pig (tomato, spices and homemade, bacon-infused vodka) go for US$6.50 (B213), and the food menu is a solid mix of burgers, pasta and pizza, and mains like fish in Myanmar beer batter (US$12/B393).
 
Eliot is also behind new arrivals Gekko (535 Merchant St., Kyautoda Township; +95 (0) 138-6986; www.gekkoyangon.com)—a hip, Japanese-inspired yakitori grill, whiskey/sake bar and cocktail lounge (the drinks list comes courtesy of Singapore’s 28 Hong Kong Street) that opened in the 1906-built Sofaer building earlier this year—and the five-month-old Parami Pizza (11/8 Malikha Rd. and Parami Rd., +95 (0) 166-7449; www.paramipizza.com) out near Inya Lake. 
 

4. A good guide makes all the difference

Make no mistake: much of Yangon is filthy and falling into ruin. But a sprinkling of civic pride has recently seen both the central People’s Park renovated (it’s a great spot for views of what is far and away the number one tourist draw in Yangon, the stunning Shwedagon Paya), and the launch of a blue plaque initiative to commemorate some 200 significant buildings across the city (the first being colonial-era City Hall and the former Myoma school). It’s just a shame so many of them are in such a sorry state, with little to illuminate their importance. 
 
For that reason you’re best putting yourself in more capable hands. We heard very good things about both Free Yangon Walks (+95 (0) 92 5053-2068; www.freeyangonwalks.com), who meet every day at 4pm in the car park opposite City Hall for English-speaking walking tours; and the free late-night cycle tours (15,000 kyats for bike rental) departing from Bike World (10/F, Khapaung Rd.; +95 (0)152-7109; www.cyclingmyanmar.com) at 10pm every Friday. And hopping on the Circle Line train from the Central Railway Station for all or part of its three hour loop around the city (200 kyat/B6.34) is perhaps the very best way to see parts of Yangon yet untouched by the gold rush.
 
Whatever you do, don’t make the mistake of thinking a cab is the answer. Drivers are unfailingly honest and rates are incredibly cheap (the 45-minute/one hour trip to or from the airport is just 9,000 kyat/B285), but unless it’s late at night there’s a depressingly high chance you’ll get stuck in traffic for a very long time. 
 
 

5. The artists are out in the open

For a country that’s been repressed for so long, Burmese art is often strikingly contemporary. And these days there are more and more outlets for talented artists. 
 
The most interesting new arrival is TS1 (between Lanthit and Kaing Dan jetties, Seik Kan Township; +95 (0) 92 5006-4694; www.ts1yangon.com), a pop-up gallery, retail space (called Myanmar Made) and upcoming restaurant down by the river in an old transit shed. (Naturally, it’s already been featured in Monocle.) Opened in April of this year by young Burmese entrepreneur Ivan Pun, it’s an evocative space, right by the still-fully-functioning docks. It also happens to be beside an outdoor “beer station” visited by Anthony Bourdain in his Parts Unknown show—which we’ll admit is the real reason we stumbled across it. 
 
Across town (not far from Parami Pizza), is the year-old Witness Yangon (3/F, Pyan Hlwar Bldg., 4A Parami Rd., +95 (0) 93173-6154; www.witnessyangon.com), a space for exhibiting and training photographers and filmmakers. It’s an initiative of non-profit group Myanmar Deitta and already earning a reputation for the kind of shows that would have been unthinkable here even just a few years ago. Last month saw screenings of a documentary on Thailand’s slave fishermen and 2008’s Burma VJ: Reporting from a Closed Country; while the &Proud photo show earlier this year focused on Vietnam and Myanmar’s LGBT communities.
 

Essentials

CURRENCY
The exchange rate is currently 800 kyat to B25. Contrary to what many guidebooks tell you, almost no one insists on US dollar payments anymore (finding pristine notes, which are all they’ll accept, is a pain anyway). Just take kyat and you’ll be fine. 1,000 kyat is roughly US$1 anyway so it’s not hard to do the math. 
 
VISA
Don’t be confused by the talk of visa on arrival—that’s only for business visas, provided you have a letter of invitation. Just get a tourist visa from the embassy before you go. The embassy is conveniently located a short walk from BTS Surasak. For visa enquiries, contact 02-234-4698. 
 
 
Out of town
A world away from the bustle of downtown Yangon, the paddy fields of Dalla are only 15 minutes on the ferry. Boats leave from the jetty opposite The Strand (US$4/B131 return) and it’s easy to find a rickshaw or motorcycle driver (US$5/B164 for one hour, ($6.25/B205) on the other side to take you around the local market, a small monastery, some fishing communities and a “bamboo village,” home to people relocated after 2008’s Cyclone Nargis.
 

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If you're looking for something chi chi, rustic or super casual, there are a bunch of Gallic eateries to check out around town.

Cafe & Bar Gavroche

The less fancy sister of next door Brasserie Gavroche, this place is great for a casual snack or meal. Everything on the menu is simple, but still very satisfying: lots of salads, sandwiches and tartines like duck rillettes and smoked salmon with horseradish. The brunch here is also great, featuring lots of croque monsieur and charcuterie boards, while they do a mean table top raclette on Saturday nights.

Fleur de Sel

This cozy space on hip Tras Street has an open-concept kitchen pushing out dishes like seared duck liver with apple tatin; pan-seared scallops with parma ham and chicken jus; and, stuffed quail with mushrooms and foie gras. Everything's pretty decadent and super pretty but in terms of fine dining places, this one's not going to break the bank.

JAAN

JAAN really needs no introduction. It's the ultimate blowout French meal. Perched prettily on the 70th floor of the Swissotel the ambiance is elegant and the service by-the-book. Chef Kirk Westaway has truly perfected gastronomic platings with seasonal produce like root vegetables and fancy meats. 

L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon

The most decorated chef in the world also has this more "casual" outlet and it's well worth the visit. From the distinctive red and black decor to the degustation menus, you can't go wrong with his seasonal produce and out-of-this-world takes on dishes like the teriyaki-based Iberico pork rack or cod on artichoke-tomato-pickle juice.

L'Entrecote

Many a patron in France would argue that the simple dish of steak and fries served with a special sauce is the only way to enjoy steak. This restaurant clearly agrees, though there are also starters like foie gras and 15 types of desserts. At the end of the day, nothing satisfies like a well-cooked slab of meat (medium-rare, of course) that go for below $40.

Le Bistrot du Sommelier

If you had to describe this place with one word it would be soulful. They serve French comfort food that truly hits the spot and avoids any pretension or prissiness. They've got classics like frog legs in garlic and parsley sauce; oven-roasted spring chicken; and lots of charcuterie boards that include all sorts of rillettes and terrines.

Les Amis

Another stalwart on the Singapore fine dining scene, this French restaurant truly ticks all the boxes when it comes to classic French service. The waiters are attentive, the food beautifully plated and the atmosphere wonderfully elevated. Seasonal produce is king here with its ever-changing menu, but expect classic ingredients like caviar and truffle.

Rhubarb le Restaurant

Duxton Hill is now home to a small French restaurant run by the ex-head chef and manager of Au Petit Salut. No guesses as to what the star ingredient is, but this place is more than just rhubarb. From the modern and muted color scheme of dove gray and white to the minimalist plates serving pigeon, this eatery looks set to become a mainstay in French "cuisine moderne" scene.

Saint Pierre

Chef Emmanuel Stroobant's cuisine has managed to stand the test of time since opening in the early 2000s. Now, it's located in the picturesque Quayside Isle but still serves more of the same gastronomic French food. The real draw here though is the vegetarian menu, which unlike some other places, is certainly no afterthought.

Saveur

The most affordable selection of the lot, this restaurant does what it does very well. There are few things that go above $20 on the menu, yet they still manage to include items like duck confit, foie gras and a monkfish and scallop dish. 

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We get it, you want to go on a juice cleanse. But before you embark on the liquid lifestyle, here are the different brands and what to expect.

Here's everything you need to know about juice cleansing, whether you're trying to detox after a big weekend, or just want to know what all the fuss is about. 

Daily Juice

The goods: There are 1-, 3- and 5-day cleanses where you drink six half-liter cold-pressed juice bottles daily. There are six different bottles that are optimized for different times of the day with different health benefits. Juice flavors include the morning kickstarter, Barnie that's made with beet, carrot, green apple, ginger and lemon; a smoothie-like B.Smooth with mixed berries, apple, banana, natural yoghurt and chia seeds; and Pepplemint made of pineapple, apple and mint.
The damage: This one is the most value-for-money at $133 for a three-day cleanse with an additional $15 delivery fee.

Hic Juice

The goods: There are three levels of cleanses that come in 1-, 3- and 5-day periods that cater to different cleansing expertise. The better you are with cleansing, the greener the juices as they contain less fruit. The Level 1 Reboot cleanse includes 11 different kinds of juices ranging from the Popeye Smoothie made with red dragonfruit, pineapples, bananas, spinach and ionized water; the veggie-driven Green Lemonade with apple, cucumber, kale, celery romaine lettuce, parsley and lemon; and Nut Milk with raw cashews, almonds, vanilla, Medjool dates, Himalayan salt, cinnamon and ionized water. 
The damage: $308 for a three-day cleanse with an additional $30 delivery fee.

Joob

The goods: They've got a range of detox programs ranging from one to five days, depending on how long you're willing to brave the liquids. There are five different juice blends that come in 500ml bottles with flavors like Green Machine (which you take twice a day) that has apple, cucumber, celery, spinach, kale and lemon; Immunity Booster with carrot, beetroot, pear, ginger and lemon; and Cleansorator with lemon, agave, cayenne pepper and water.
The damage: $297 for a three-day cleanse with an additional $20 delivery fee.

The Mission Juice Co.

The goods: There are four different juices depending on which set you choose. Set 1 includes juices like ABC, a blend of apple, beetroot, carrot and ginger; Energy Booster with carrot, pineapple, green apple and ginger; and Super Citrus with grapefruit, pineapple, orange and lime, while Set 2 has Kale Me Now with kale and pear; Cucumberlicious made with apple, carrot and cucumber and Tropica with orange, carrot, lemon and ginger. They do cleanses per half-day ($28 for four bottles) or full-day ($56 for eight bottles).
The damage: $168 for a three-day cleanse based on three $56 days. Delivery charges depend on how many bottles you order but is $35 for 16 bottles. 

Rejuicenate

The goods: They've got three types of cleanses ranging from the easier Rejuicenation to the greener Elimination. First-time cleansers should always go for something easier with lots of fruit. Rejuicenation comes with eight types of juices including the Mean Green with kale, romaine lettuce, apple, spinach, parsley cucumber, celery, lemon and ginger; Pineapple Punch with pineapple, cilantro, apple, calamansi and sea salt; and Roots made with carrot, purple carrot, honeycrisp apple and young ginger.
The damage: $320 for a three-day cleanse with an additional $20 delivery fee.

Sana Cleanse

The goods: This cleanse also comes in three levels, level one being the easiest with tons of juice varieties from nut milks to root vegetable juices. Everything's cold-pressed and you get to drink six juices a day. The only downside is that you can only start on a Monday, Wednesday or Saturday when you order.
The damage: $320 for a three-day cleanse with an additional $20 delivery fee.

Syndicate Juice Co.

The goods: There's a mini one-day cleanse to the five-day Powerhouse cleanse, as well as a three-day signature cleanse. This includes six juices per day with flavors like Detox Me!, which includes kale, spinach, romaine lettuce, cucumber, celery parsley and green apple; Clean Me! that has lemon, water, agave and cayenne pepper; and Refresh Me! with spinach, cucumber, pear, lemon and mint.
The damage: $310 for a three-day signature cleanse with an additional $15 delivery fee.


Tips and tricks:

  • Start slow. Cut out red meats three days before and switch to white meats. The day before you start your cleanse, you should be eating fresh green veggies only.
  • Don't drink coffee during your cleanse as it can irritate your stomach. Switch to green tea instead for the caffeine kick.
  • No alcohol and cigarettes, for obvious reasons. You want your body to be clean and this is just putting toxins back in.
  • Hunger? Contrary to popular belief, you won't feel hungry as you're doped up on nutrient-rich vitamins and minerals from the juices.
  • Bloated? Yep, that's pretty common. We experienced the feeling of a constant over-consumption of liquids, too. It goes away.
  • Sip slowly. As much as you may want to chug, don't. It's much easier to pace yourself when you sip.

What we experienced:

  • Day 1 was great! Sipping juices doesn't seem that hard and we didn't feel hunger pangs at all.
  • Day 2 is when the tummy starts getting rumbly. We definitely felt the cravings for solid food and the smells wafting around the office didn't help either. Don't be surprised if you get a headache, it's a common side effect.
  • Day 3 was when we felt a huge surge in energy. We felt like we could subsist on a diet of juice forever. Although the lack of solid food was starting to gnaw (pun intended) at us.

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Known as the bohemian enclave of Singapore, this seemingly sleepy neighborhood is full of casual restaurants, bars and cafes. Here are the best ones to hit up on your next visit. 

2am:dessertbar

The ultimate sweet tooth retreat, this late night dessert haunt has made waves islandwide. Chef-owner Janice Wong's signature edible art displays include marshmallow walls to chocolate tables, and everything that comes out on a plate is equally decadent. There are dishes like matcha lava cake and pistachio sponge with coco mousse, as well as recently introduced savory items like beef cheek rendang and tacos.

CRAFT Bakery

For those who like a spot of people watching with a good lava cake and coffee, this is the cafe for you. The menu's pretty simple and the attention is focused on 3 Inch Sin's signature chocolate cakes, as well as a some savory options like  bacon mac n' cheese. There's also Papa Palheta coffee that's perfect for a lazy weekend afternoon.

Da Paolo Pizza Bar

As one of Da Paolo's remaining Chip Bee establishments, this pizza bar still draws the crowds with its cow print ceilings, wooden tables and huge wine racks. The thin-crusted pizza is the star of the show with options like tomato, mozzarella, pink peppercorns, avocado and chicken, as well as calzones (folded pizzas). If you're not in the mood for pizza, they've also got salads, meatballs and sandwiches on offer.

Hatched

If you love eggs, this is the place to go. The easy-to-miss cafe nestled amongst a stretch of banks and big corporations specializes in everything eggy. There are favorites like eggs benedict with streaky bacon and ham; wagyu burgers with fried eggs; breakfast burritos and baked eggs, too. 

Original Sin

An institution in Chip Bee Gardens, this Mediterranean restaurant is known for its vegetarian offerings. It's cozy and quiet, which is a welcome change from the raucous weekend atmosphere across the road, with dishes like pan-fried haloumi salad with roasted capsicum and lentils, creamy porcini pasta and great mezze platters to share. Don't miss their ever-changing risotto dish, too.

PARK

Housed in a converted cargo shipping container, this place has a casual vibe with food like spam chips, smoked duck tacos and burgers. If you're looking for casual drinks, they've got a pretty extensive list of beers and wines like Kronenbourg Blanc, Zonin prosecco and Blaissac Bordeaux AOC. Plus, they've got pretty good happy hour and ladies night deals.

The Pit

Tucked away in a corner of Lorong Liput next to some tech stores, this no-frills pub is right below 2am:dessertbar. Frequented by lots of regulars and soccer fans, it's got a convivial atmosphere fuelled by local craft brews by Archipelago. Plus, they've got some pretty decent bar bites like buffalo chicken wings and ribs.

Sanpoutei Ramen

This Niigata ramen restaurant has something a little different to offer: it uses fish stock as its soup base, rather than the usual blend of tonkotsu (pork bone) and shoyu bases. On offer are bowls of tori and miso-based noodles with chasiu, bamboo shoots and, of course, Japanese soy-flavored eggs.

Sunday Folks

Another dessert-centric place, this one specializes in more down-to-earth favorites like waffles and soft serve ice cream. Their ice cream swirling skills are pretty impressive, piled high atop waffles by the Creamier folks. They've also got other sweet treats like yuzu cheesecake, sticky toffee cake, chocolate peppermint marshmallows and takeaway ice cream cones.

Wala Wala

Who doesn't love a casual night out in the open air drinking with friends? This Holland Village stalwart pub has nailed the atmosphere with their approachable list of drinks, pub snacks, sports telecasts and live music. Think drinks like beers on tap, bottles of wine, rudimentary cocktails and bottles of spirits. Don't forget to order jugs of frozen margaritas on that next balmy night out.

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