Ku De Ta Bangkok’s Signature Restaurant cooks up modern Asian fine-dining, with sweeping views to boot. The kitchen is led by chef Jonathan Maza, who’s worked with Eric Ripert and Nobu Matsuhisa (both of whom have had their share of Michelin stars). It delivers creative dishes that show off modern techniques and elaborate presentation.
Signature is very clear about its lofty ambitions, and warns diners that they don’t do sushi. (You do have the option of dining at Izakaya, right next to it, for a more traditional and less expensive meal.) The overarching influence, though, is clearly Japanese.
The Hamachi Nahm Prik (B500) sees five thin slices of raw yellowtail tuna topped by slivers of chili and fried shallots. Each piece is arranged as a single, carefully calibrated bite, so that it’s not only beautiful to look at but perfectly balanced. Similarly, the Tai Truffle Soy (B500) layers Japanese snapper, yuzu honey and flakes of French truffle. Here too, the dish manages to be more exciting than straight-up snapper sashimi would be not an easy task.
Indeed, there are exceptions: the Hon Magura Tataki (B600) combines lightly seared bluefin tuna with caramelized shallots, wakame (a subtly sweet seaweed) and tosazu (a kind of vinegar) a dressing that doesn’t leave much space for the tuna to express itself.
There are also dishes that do little to alter the original product, such as the decadent wagyu with a marble score of A5 from Omi Prefecture in Japan (B3,000). It’s heaped onto a ceramic grill and protected from direct heat by delicious Japanese green onions. The generous chunks are cooked rare, so that their full, fatty flavors are uncompromised.
Desserts are creative, delicious, and beautiful, too. Chef Jason Licker discreetly references Thailand and Southeast Asia in his Sang Som Cappuccino (Sangsom foam, milk ice cream, chocolate coffee crumble, passion, B360) or Yaki Painappuru (grilled pineapple, financier,passion-mango sorbet, B360) while employing the best of modern pastry techniques.
Need we remind you Signature isn’t cheap. But with 39th floor views, an extensive sake menu, diligent service and creative Japanese cuisine that actually works, you’re getting a truly special experience.