BANGKOK RESTAURANT

Attico

This Tuscan-inspired restaurant at the recently opened Radisson Blu Plaza Bangkok provides an escape from the busy Asoke intersection with a touch of rural Italy.

The Italian restaurant at the Radisson Blu Plaza Bangkok continues its focus on Tuscan cuisine under new head chef Roberto Paren-tela (previously of Zanotti). Favorites such as the ravioli con porcini and branzino al cartoccio (steamed whole sea bass from Brittany) remain, vying for the diner’s attention with an old world wine list, 28th-floor views and a handsomely-appointed dining room that references Tuscan farm kitchens.

The buzz: This Tuscan-inspired restaurant at the recently opened Radisson Blu Plaza Bangkok provides an escape from the busy Asoke intersection with a touch of rural Italy. Heading this Lombardian- Tuscan kitchen is Chef Dario Busnelli, a Lombardy native who has cooked in numerous prestigious establishments across Europe, including Ristorante Pierino Penati and Da Vittorio, both of which were two-Michelin-starred restaurants while he was there.

The décor: Sitting pretty on the 28th floor, Attico welcomes guests with a maze of towering stacks of wine barrels. This labyrinth opens up to a spacious, high-ceilinged 60-seat hall. Tall glass windows and a balcony, where you can also dine, look out onto the Bangkok skyline. The thick wooden tables and chairs from Tuscany lend some warmth to the interior, while framed black and white photographs and large paintings give it some vibrancy. There is an open cold kitchen with a display of cold cuts and cheeses.

The food: Rarely would a practical Italian chef use ingredients from Lombardy and Tuscany (two arch rivals, no less), along with artisanal products from Thailand, to put together a Tuscan menu. For the antipasti, try the refreshing burrata cheese served with fresh cherry tomatoes along with arugula leaves and prosciutto (B1,090). Moving on to pasta, don’t miss the ravioli con porcini (B490), with house-made ravioli cooked perfectly al dente. As for die-hard meat fanatics, the special 1.3kg Australian Wagyu tomahawk (B3990) with roast potatoes, grilled vegetables and truffle-infused red wine shallot reduction is hearty enough for a party of four. For dessert, Chef Dario’s tiramisu is fresh, fluffy and not too sweet, with a hint of cointreau in the mascarpone cream section (B320), while his rich panna cotta (B290) comes with poached pear in red wine. For those who prefer to end the meal with a cheese course, there’s a selection of indigenous Italian cheeses (B790), such as the truffle- and saffron-infused pecorino, mufatto (cheese wrapped in walnut leaf), pecorino and the chef’s favorite, ubriaco (a cheese soaked in raboso wine and aged for at least 12 months), all served with homemade compotes.

The drinks: The extensive wine list features Old World wines, mostly from the Tuscan region, priced from B230 per glass up to the iconic Super Tuscan 2009 Solaia IGT, by the Marchesi Antinori winery at B21,900 per bottle. Try the red Bolgheri Rosso from the Tenuta Argentiera wine estate (B1,750 per bottle); it has a mild resemblance to a medium- to full-bodied shiraz and pairs well with intense dishes like the tomahawk.

The crowd: Still in its soft opening phase, the restaurant attracts regulars of the acclaimed La Bottega di Luca, where Chef Dario once worked as a sous chef.

Venue Details
Address: Attico, 28/F, Radisson Blu, 489 Sukhumvit Soi 27, Sukhumvit Rd., Bangkok, 10110 Thailand
Phone: 02-302-3333
Website: http://www.atticobangkok.com/
Area: Nana Asoke
Cuisine: Italian
Price Range: BBB - BBBB
Opening hours: daily 6-11pm; Mon-Sat noon-2:30pm
Parking available, Takeaway available, Dress requirements: (strictly no shorts, slippers, or tank tops)
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