For as long as we can remember, Hua Hin has been the go-to spot for Bangkokians looking for an easy beach break. The result is the seaside town is now packed most weekends, hotels are expensive and the beaches are no longer the golden stretches of sand they used to be. Still, there is an alternative, take the bypass road, and by the time it would take you to get to Plernwan you can be at Pranburi, gateway to a stretch of coast that offers beautiful, empty beaches, some stunning scenery and the chance to enjoy a more natural escape.

Beach Combing

The area south of Hua Hin is blessed with countless pristine and often deserted beaches. Probably the biggest and also the best-known beach along this stretch of coastline, Pak Nam Pran (aka Khao Kalok) is a gently curving bay that reaches from the headland out by the Evason (See Where to Stay, page 10) and slowly sweeps around to the iconic rocky outcrop, Khao Kalok (Skull Mountain). It’s proximity to Pranburi town means it’s the most developed beach in the area, yet, it’s still remarkably quiet. The only section that gets really busy is up in the shade of Khao Kalok, and then only on weekends and public holidays, when hordes of locals descend to drink whiskey and eat fresh horseshoe crab, and fried chicken, served up by an army of beachside wait staff. The rest of the long beach is wonderfully empty, if often a little windswept, which means that the only interruptions you’ll have to your musings are from the birds and the kite surfers.

Take to the skies

Like Hua Hin, the sport is really big around Pak Nam Pran, thanks to the regular coastal breezes and the relatively calm, shallow waters. There are numerous places along the beach where you can learn how to fly across the crests of the waves, some even offer accommodation. Our pick would have to be Airstylers Kite School (www.airstylerskiteschool.com), which has a nice, laid-back attitude, offers lessons in Thai and English and has basic three-day group courses (with lessons, equipment and five-night accommodation) starting from B18,000. Another decent option is Kite Surfing Pranburi (www.kitesurfingpranburi.com), which limits its classes to just two students per teacher and has a one-hour discovery course that costs B1,500.

On your bike

If flying across the waves at breakneck speed seems a little hair-raising for a holiday, then there are less intense ways of getting a work out in Pak Nam Pran while enjoying the surroundings. Most hotels rent out bicycles for hire (from B50-150 an hour), and the quiet roads, pretty temples, stunning limestone hills and sleepy pineapple plantations all help make for a charming cycle ride. Make sure to stop by the quaint Wang Phong train station, a mini version of the one at Hua Hin, and grab a drink or snack from the lovely couple who run the small stall outside. Alternatively, you can head past Khao Kalok to check out Wat Summanawas, also known as the dog temple because it acts as a refuge for the seemingly thousands of stray pooches that call this area home.

Hiking

Another way to work up a sweat in Pak Nam Pran is to take to the hills, or specifically, the small national park of Khao Kalok, which has a series of nature trails winding up to its summit. Be warned, it can get a little hairy, due to the steepness of the path and shouldn’t be attempted in flip flops. Still the view from the top is well worth the effort. Another good nearby destination is the nature trails at Pranburi Forest Park (089-787-4812). Set up in 1980 to protect the mangrove swamps and forests around the estuary of the Pran River, it’s a pleasant spot to take a stroll. There are two trails to choose from: one that goes via Pran Kiri beach and a shorter route that heads through the Mangroves. Both can be reached from the visitor center that also has a few food stalls.
Of course, when it comes to taking in some nature in this area, you’d be remiss not to check out the longer nature trails and abundant wildlife of Sam Roi Yod

Essentials

Getting There: Take Highway 4 as if you were heading to Hua Hin, except skip the traffic jams and opt for the bypass road at the 202 km mark. The road rejoins the main highway at Pranburi. Turn left at the lights opposite Tanarat Military Camp, then follow signs to Khao Kalok. The journey should take around 3.5 hours.

When to Go: While there’s never a bad time to go, just be warned that the size of the beaches in this region is seasonal depending on the high tides. In some cases (like down in Kui Buri), the sand can disappear completely from Nov to Feb.

If you want further ideas of things to do in the area, check out the excellent map by the people behind Nancy Chandler’s maps of Bangkok. It is available for free at various locations along the beach road, including AirStylers and Mexican restaurant Fajitas. Alternatively, order online at www.nancychandler.net for FREE plus delivery.

Where to Stay

There are a growing number of places to stay in Pak Nam Pran, most of which are spread along the beach road. Here are our picks:

Mediterranean Living

If the Pranberry  feel too basic for you, then head up the road and take in the boutique charms of Hua Plee Lazy Beach (Beach Front Road, Pak Nam Pran. 032-630555, www.huapleelazybeach.com). This lovely compound, with its large garden that accommodates the main, white house and a couple of smaller bungalows, is right on the beach and has just seven rooms and suites all finished in a nautical, Mediterranean theme. It’s owned by one of Thailand’s leading female windsurfers, and each room benefits from her personal touch, be it the hand-embroidered pillowcases or the handpicked wall hangings. Lazy Beach rates start from around B3,500 for two people, including breakfast.

Modern Retreat

Eschewing the frankly weird trend for all things Arabian in the neighborhood, the Foresta (169/5 Moo 3, Pak Nam Pran, 032-630-678) goes for a very modern style. A set of cubist-inspired white suites and rooms flank a central swimming pool, yielding clean, dramatic lines. The spacious rooms are equally modern with concrete floors and white walls enlivened by playful touches of color and some cutesy details. Aside from the pool, the facilities include bike hire and the Foresta Ley Café, which serves up inter-Thai dishes. Rates start from B3500 for a superior room rising to B5000 for the two bedroom Family Room, but do check their website for cheaper packages.

Luxury and Relaxation

If your holiday is all about indulging body and soul, then your best bet in Pak Nam Pran is to head to the Evason resorts (www.sixsenses.com). Set within 20 acres of beautifully landscaped gardens dotted with lotus ponds, the resort is divided into the Evason Six Senses and the Evason Hua Hin. The Evason Hua Hin is more family (and pocket) friendly, with a big communal pool and simple but spacious rooms finished in cream and brown tones. The Six Senses only offers private pool villas (55 in total) and has a particular focus on holistic treatments in its eco-focused Earth Spa. Sure, this place is pricy and maybe some of the in-room facilities could do with an upgrade, but you’d be hard-pressed to find another spot that matches the level of service experienced here—even if all the pool staff look like Hunter S. Thompson with their crazy hats.

Home by the Sea

If you plan on descending on the beach en masse and want to stay in style, then Le Bayburi Villas (306-9 Beach Front Rd, Pak Nam Pran, 032-630-636. www.lebayburi.com) is a great option (if you can afford it). Each of the four, sprawling two-story, three-bedroom, villas features its own individual design, allowing you to choose from: Mediterranean Retreat, Pacific Hideaway, Modern Tropical or, our favorite, the minimal white finish of Scandinavian Vacation. We love the beachfront location, the alfresco kitchen areas, the big living room and the large private pools (each with its own pool bar). There’s a team of staff always on hand, so you don’t have to worry about cleaning up after yourself and you can even order in from the Thai seafood restaurant over the road if you can’t be bothered to go out. Just be warned, it is right on the beach so privacy could be an issue for some. Rates start from B10,800 per villa per night.

Design Focused

For those in need of a design fix, the best option is to stay on Highway 4 a little longer (around 30-40 minutes) and head to the brainchild of Thai starchitect Duangrit Bunnang, the X2 Kui Buri. Situated on a remote stretch of coastline, the look and feel of X2 follows his trademark style: lots of boxy, clean lines and lots of natural materials. The rectangular pool villas are all built with walls made of rocks, which can seem a little cold at first, but thanks to the warm tones and subtle lighting, you’ll feel like you’re sleeping in a cozy cave. As well as the private pools, the rooms also come with open-air showers, while the rest of the complex boasts a spa, pool and an arresting bar with views of the Gulf of Thailand. The place is lovely and chill, but it is also really remote, so you’ll have to get in a car if you don’t want to put up with the slightly scatter-gun service and high food prices.

Arabian Odyssey

While it certainly wasn’t the first Moroccan-themed resort in Thailand, Villa Maroc (Pak Nam Pran, 032-630-771, www.villamaroc.com) is probably the best of its kind, so far. Staying here is like lodging in a hi-so Moroccan beach villa. No matter which room you’re checking in to, from a pool court suite to a pool villa, you’ll be surrounded by vivid, warm-hued tones, fancy textiles and Arabian-style decorations imported from North Africa. If you can afford it, go for a pool villa. A can’t-miss activity is slipping into a blood-red Moroccan-style robe and heading to the Shisha Bar for an herbal smoke and light cocktails just in time for sunset. Rates start from B10,000 for a pool court room to B26,000 for a Royal Villa.

Where to Eat

From super-fresh seafood to sinful desserts Pak Nam Pran has plenty of affordable options.
Of course, if you’re by the sea, you want to eat seafood, and Tonto Restaurant (166 Moo 3 Pak Nam Pran, 032-570-108. Open daily 10am-9pm) is really the long-term favorite in the area. An unassuming place, with a small lawn surrounded by simple tables, it does benefit from a prime location overlooking the beach. But it’s the freshness of the produce and the relative cheapness of their traditional Thai seafood dishes that mean it’s usually packed with families. Must-try dishes include classics like the deep fried seabass with fish sauce (B290), huge prawns baked with salt (from B450 per kilo) and, for a snack, try the moreish crisp-fried silver sillago with garlic (B80).

If you head past the hill of Khao Kalok, with its army of gai yang and somtam sellers, and keep on going past the temple, then the road eventually reaches another much quieter bay. Right on this corner there is a tumble-down collection of huts on the shoreline next to a small fleet of fishing boats. Kaokalok National Park Restaurant (Pak Nam Pran Beach Rd., 086-701-8597, 085-788-5575. Open daily 9am-8pm), Might be a long way short of fancy, but it does serve up some super-fresh seafood dishes like their crisp-fried yellow tail with lemon grass (B300) which can be enjoyed while you look out over the fishing boats that caught your dinner.

Pranberry (Beach Front Rd, Pak Nam Pran, 081-307-2213, 081-850-8778. http://tinyurl.com/7mcmhv5. Open weekends and public holidays from 10.30am-9.30pm.) is a charming little eatery and makes for a welcome change, if you’re tired of fried seafood. The sand floor brings the beach to you as you enjoy the charming space. It’s run by a group of friends from Bangkok who head down here on weekends to get away from it all and indulge their love of cooking Italian food and decadent desserts. You can expect an ever-changing menu of hearty pasta dishes using super fresh sauces, some great sausages and sinful treats, like their to-die-for chocolate lava cake. If you love the rustic charm of the place, then you can stay over at one of their two simple, circular cob houses out in the small garden (B1500 per night for two with breakfast).

Clad in a design that’s inspired by a farmer’s village, La A Natu (234 Moo 2, Samroiyod, Prachuab Khirikhan, 032-689-941/-3) is certainly a resort with a difference. Apart from the chance to view its unique eco-look, it’s worth a visit to sample the owner’s homemade coconut cake (along with all the other baked goods served here). If you want a place to stay, there are 10 minimal suites and villas featuring wood, clay and earth-tone colors that sit overlooking a peaceful and delightfully deserted beach.

An unassuming spot by the side of the road, Jim Daeng (27 Moo 2 Beach Front Rd, 032-559-160, 085-808-9050, open daily 9am-9pm) is a husband-and-wife affair tucked away behind a hedge across from Villa Maroc. While at first glance it serves the pretty standard fare, they are best known for offering particularly spicy seafood dishes. Must tries include their gaeng som and their fiery Tod Mun Pla Insee (fried fish curry cake, B80).

Travel Guide: Sam Roi Yod National Park

Travel Guide: Ao Manao Beach