The air force base situated at the end of Prachuab Khirikhan town center makes for a great day trip from Pak Nam Pran. That might sound odd, but Ao Manao, the home of Wing Command 5, happens to offer one of the most beautiful beaches along this stretch of coastline, as well as a slice of oft-forgotten history. Depending on how dutiful the guard is feeling at the main gate, you might need to sign in, otherwise just drive in past the old aircraft, the barracks and across the runway and you’ll reach a long coastal road that has souvenir stalls and a couple of food courts on one side and a stunning crescent-shaped bay flanked by towering pine trees on the other. Head to either end of this long, semi-cirrcular bay, especially down by the runway and golf course, and you’ll find pristine, soft off-white sand, shallow waters and great views over the dramatic silhouettes of the offshore islands. The best bit: Not a jet ski or banana boat in sight.

If you do want to get away from the beach, then you could always drive down to the war museum, which has a few old planes and some impressive memorials. These sculptures, which look out over a separate (and equally dramatic) bay, mark the site of the first landing by invading Japanese forces during WWII (on the same day as Pearl Harbor) and honor the heroic efforts of a small band of Thai troops to fight them off.

Sporty-types can release some energy at the nine-hole golf course and driving range that is open to the public. It’s not necessarily in the best condition, and you’ll need your own clubs, but on the plus-side you can play a round for as little as B100.

For food, you could always opt for the food court along the coast road, while the quality of the mostly-seafood dishes on offer is OK, the choices are rather limited and a little expensive. We recommend leaving the base by the Southern Gate and heading to the nearby fishing port of Klongwan, which is about a five-minute drive. As you reach the village proper, the road bends sharply to the right. Go straight on, down a very narrow lane and you’ll reach a car park that looks over a small port and bay. A well-manicured patch of lawn separates the cars from a row of seafood joints that all share a lovely sleepy vibe. Come at lunch time and rub shoulders with the guys from the air force base who all flock to long-term favorite Fatalayjone (T. Klongwan, A. Muang Prachuab Kirikhan, 032-661-162, 089-105-0955. Open daily 10am-9pm) for the old school décor and dishes like dried green curry with seafood (B100) and the yam pla kapong sam rod (sea bass with three sauces, B250 per kilo). If, like us, you’d rather avoid men in uniforms, we have to say we prefer the laid-back charms, friendly owners, delicious sundried beef and moist grouper with garlic sauce of Chai Lay (129, T. Klongwan, A. Muang Prachuab Kirikhan. 032-661-173, 087-368-1399. Open daily 10am-10pm), which is located two restaurants up.

If you really fall in love with the place and don’t want to leave, then the Royal Thai Air Force Residence (Wing 5 Royal Thai Air Force, T. Ko Lak, A. Mueang Prachuap Khiri Khan. 032-661-088-90, 032-611-017) does allow non-military visitors to stay and has rooms from B900 a night. However, be warned, we have it on good authority that there is no guarantee your booking will be honored, especially if some high-ranking military type decides to drops by.