How long have you been a noodle making chef?
I have been a chef for 16 years, having picked up culinary skills as an apprentice in a government hotel in China. As for noodle making, I have been doing it for about seven years.
Why have you chosen this profession?
When I graduated from college, I was unable to enter university and had to find some other means of survival. It was a hot trend then for men to be chefs or noodle makers, as it was practical and could ensure a job.
What’s the secret to making great noodles by hand?
Mostly experience, because the secret of Szechuan food is attaining particular taste for a dish despite differences or changes in ingredients.
What are the different kinds of noodles you can make by hand?
There are more than 10 kinds.
Explain how good noodles taste better than low quality ones.
They run smoothly down your throat, and make you want to eat some more. Handmade noodles have been kneaded by hand repeatedly and the dough is even. The noodles are shinier, and the taste and the texture less dull.
What is your record speed for making noodles?
For dao xiao mian, I can slice enough noodles for three bowls in one minute.
What do you really do—stand at the table and make noodles the whole day?
I have my delegated tasks and duties besides making noodles. I also make bean curd, mooncakes, dian xin or even experiment with something new for the menu. In general, I bake and cook non-stop.
Fingers, wrists, palms or forearms, which tire most?
I find it most tiring for my waist, upper back and shoulders.
Ever thought of inventing your own noodle creation?
I will, if I have the chance to!
Rice and noodles—which do you prefer?
I think about noodles first, because it is part of my job.
Do you have a need to occupy your hands all the time?
I rest my hands if I am tired, especially as my fingers and wrists are injury prone areas given my profession. I have to take care of them.
What else are you good at?
I guess I have good eyesight, given that I have to make elaborately shaped sweets sometimes. Maybe wei qi too.
What can one do with noodles besides eating them?
The noodles I make are for my customers to eat, and not for anything else!
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Like the classic romantic, he lights up the darkened skies and creates dreams transcending heavens and the horizons. Yann Kersale, who comes from the beautiful land of France, colored his visions and ideas all over the world on buildings and structures. His display of dazzling lights and shimmers is more than what meets the eye, and remains a wondrous sight.
You have been named the artist of illumination. Have you made any reference to any person or event in your achievements to date?
I have made cinematographic references to some movies such as Jean Cocteau’s La Belle et La Bête, Ridley Scott’s Blade Runner, and also Dürer and Jackson Pollock in the painting field.
Saisons is a design of illuminating effects on the outside of Liat Towers, while R-Flexion-S is an indoor installation of reflective facets. What is the message you wish to tell viewers through these two creations?
I do not have any message for viewers. I’m more concerned with adopting a sensitive approach to a public space than to convey any particular message. For Saisons, my wish was to link the activity of the location to a luxury shop and its delicate label. Re-Flexion-S plays with the light coming through the windows to conceptualize a city’s chaos.
So if some people do not take to your designs favorably, how does the criticism affect you and your future works?
One cannot please all. When one exposes one’s works, one also exposes oneself to criticism. Negative criticism is never pleasant. It is most important for me to communicate something beautiful and sensitive.
There are different kinds of artists, each with a different focus. Is there any particular reason for choosing to work mostly on or about buildings?
Yes. When I was younger, it was impossible for me to be in galleries or other artistic locations. You have to be a collector, a buyer or someone who visits museums and galleries to see art. I work on buildings to show more people, rather than fewer. I prefer my works to be perceived by everyone, out in the open.
When you talk about art and your own designs, what is its significance to you?
Art is not really work to me. I am lucky to live my passion, and truly, everything I do is linked to it.
By carving a name so significantly recognized all over the world today, with countless exhibitions of your own works and designing prominent architectures, what is the next thing you hope to attain or accomplish?
Light expeditions. By this, I mean fundamental research work on capturing existing lights such as recording the last ray of light reaching ground in a humid tropical rainforest, or travel deep into the sea where marine fauna generates its own light.
Some people see artists as being more prone to multiple or split personalities. Beneath the façade of physical appearances, what are the hidden sides of you that others do not know?
I do not have any hidden sides; I believe that I am quite transparent and perfectly readable.
OK, last question. Which artist do you idolize or look up to?
I despise the cult of personality; it is probably one of the things which stops the world from going round.
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In Hong Kong, teashops (or cha chan tengs) have been around for ages. They are where people gather for cheap and quick bites, and have spawned an interesting (if quirky) type of cuisine. Cha chan teng food is characterized by processed and convenient ingredients, such as luncheon meat and instant noodles, put together in unusual combinations. If you can get your mind around this, you might find this type of food quite tasty—in the same way chips with sour cream are tasty.
Now a hit in Singapore, with several teashops springing up recently, cha chan tengs look like they are here to stay.
B/2, Takashimaya Food Hall, Ngee Ann City, 391 Orchard Rd., 6732-8196. Open daily 10am-9pm.
Central is much classier than the teashops in Hong Kong. It offers better quality and service, yet sticks to the same down to earth grub. Central’s peanut butter on toast ($3.50) costs a little more than at other cafés and restaurants, and its peanut butter is not as thick as one might desire. The crispy seafood noodles ($8) are like our local yee mian, with liberal portions of seafood and brown gravy. Cheese baked rice with pork chop ($9) is exactly that, and is the kind of thing that appeals to kids. A typical cha chan teng dish, fried Nissin noodles with luncheon meat ($7) also comes with fish and vegetables, and is home cooked comfort food. Durian lovers can look out for Central’s signature dish: Supergrade Durian Fried Rice ($8)! Durian puree is folded into fried rice, and gives the dish a noticeable but not overpowering aroma. Try this if you dare.
#B2-36 Ngee Ann City, 391 Orchard Rd., 6238-1411. Available daily 2:30-5:30pm; restaurant open daily 11am-10pm.
Crystal Jade Kitchen serves Hong Kong style set meals as well as à la carte. Check out its trademark Bo-Lo Bun with Butter ($1.30) to start. The bun is rich and soft, with a caramelized crust and a thick wedge of butter. One of the mains, macaroni soup with ham ($5.50), comprises a generous portion of pasta topped with three large slices of ham, and is simple but gratifying. Hong Kong faves such as fried eggs with ham or sausage (available with a $6 set meal), and chicken wings with shrimp paste ($5), are also whipped up here, as is the ever popular condensed milk on toast ($1.50).
#B1-29A Bugis Junction, 230 Victoria St., 6338-0198. Open Mon-Fri 11am-10pm; Sat-Sun 10:30am-10pm.
Cha chan teng food has a Macau counterpart. And although Hong Kong and Macau have much affinity, their cha chan teng food is actually quite distinct. Pork is commonly used in Macau’s cha chan teng items, such as the pork chop buns ($5.80) and crispy pork knuckle ($26, whole) that are served at Crystal Jade’s outlet. For a snack, try the Macau version of spring rolls—deep fried mashed potato with salted cod ($6). Hong Kong’s favorite home flu remedy, warm coke with lemon ($2), is also available here. It is an acquired—and addictive—taste. Crystal Jade’s cheese baked rice with seafood and pork chop ($12.80) uses fried instead of steamed rice, and is layered with a creamy sauce. The double boiled egg white with milk ($3.50) is an oddity that must be tried. Consumed either warm or chilled, it tastes, respectively, strong or bland. We wonder who thought up this dish.
378 East Coast Rd., 6440-3808. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-5am; Sun and public holidays noon-5am.
Owner Benny insists that Hong Kong Café is the first genuine, and still the best, cha chan teng in Singapore. We do not doubt this. Extremely vigilant over the authenticity of his food, he goes out of his way to ensure that his cha chan teng dishes are done exactly as they are in Hong Kong. Try his salt and pepper bean curd ($5.50), which is flavored with a seasoning akin to that used on potato chips. Another finger food item, deep fried squid ($7.50) is dusted with flaky floss-like bits. HK Borsch soup ($3.90) has a strong soup base and is simmered with chunky pieces of vegetables. The Golden Fantasy ($5.80) is a fruity challenge: Sour pomelo seeds are buried in nectarous mango puree, with creamy sago on the soft ice cream.
54 Zion Rd., 6737-6946. Open daily noon-5am.
Hong Kong Café’s first mover advantage may be eroded somewhat by the arrival of Tong Shui Café. An explosion of color assaults the eyes when one enters the café—vibrant pinks clash with bright greens—and stylized Chinese decorations fill the interior. The spontaneity in the atmosphere works up one’s appetite and puts one at ease. Owner Raymond Khoo whips out fun and interesting fare. Some of his drinks are must-tries for the uninitiated, such as the potent boiled coke with ginger ($2.88) and iced cappuccino with coke ($3.88). Served in big old fashioned mugs, these drinks may take some getting used to, but actually go rather well with the food. The luncheon meat and egg sandwich ($3.88), presented with a plateful of fries, is a nostalgic throwback to school tuck shop lunches. The toast with peanut butter and condensed milk ($1.88) is incredible: Thick peanut butter is spread on bread four slices thick, then topped with a swirl of condensed milk. A light item is yu char kueh ($2.88), which are dough fritters with a choice of dip—we liked the black pepper. For dessert, the Yin Yang ($3.88) almond and sesame combo is really smooth and luscious. With its late night opening hours, Tong Shui Café looks set to make its presence felt. Let the competition begin.
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This is many women’s dream job: To be paid to shop. How did you get into shopping for a living?
I started off as a management trainee at Tangs and picked up the ropes from a colleague who’s also a personal shopper.
What do you do as a personal shopper?
Normally we have customers filling in forms beforehand, telling us what they want. They will come down when they are free and look through our picks before deciding.
Do you literally spend every working hour shopping?
I do shop in town to check out the latest fashion trends and products to keep myself updated, besides being a personal shopper at Tangs. But there are also other aspects like stock and inventory management.
So are you a shopaholic?
Definitely, yes. I love shopping!
What are the items you are usually asked to buy?
Usually its fashion items—bags, clothes, shoes and fashion accessories.
How do you know that you have good taste or what if your clients have bad taste?
I think the issue is when clients do not know how to match clothes well or properly, not that they have bad taste.
Ever had to make purchases for stuff your clients find too embarrassing to buy themselves?
Only for men buying lingerie for their partners. Normally it’s done very fast because they already know what they want—brand, color, size and style.
What’s the most money you’ve ever been asked to spend in one shopping spree?
I once had a customer who spent $7,000.
What happens if you buy the wrong stuff for your clients? Any bad experiences?
No. We don’t force our opinions on them but suggest or recommend items and see if they will buy. Normally they are quite assertive already and have their own style.
Ever need to ask for help with carrying all the bags?
Most definitely.
Do you shop for yourself on the weekends?
Yes. But sometimes I have to work on weekends, and so I shop on weekdays.
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What is a traveling gourmet? Isn’t it just another way to describe a greedy traveler?
I travel the world to look for good food and wine, and write articles for various magazines. There’s a misconception about the difference between a gourmet and a gourmand. A gourmet appreciates and savors fine food and wine, not necessarily in huge amounts, but a gourmand is a glutton!
So how do you get people to pay you to travel and eat?
Luckily, I am quite well known today. Many governments and even top five-star hotels invite and sponsor me.
What qualifies you to distinguish good food from bad?
I believe one must be true to one’s taste buds, and I am a trained chef as well. I have had special training by top chefs and masters, and at CIA.
Are you a special agent or something?
CIA is the Culinary Institute of America.
What is one unique dish you remember?
Well, there is the witchetty grub from Australia. It is like a fat worm about the size of your finger, eaten raw or soaked in garlic. You bite the head off then eat the rest of the body. The texture is like cream cheese, and it tastes quite bland.
Ever had to eat something you strongly object to, like an endangered animal?
I try not to eat endangered animals. I won’t order them.
What’s the worst food you’ve tried?
The worst food I had was when I was at this restaurant in Singapore that claimed to serve French food, but it was nothing like that. And my friends and relatives had food poisoning after dining there.
Do you take up health insurance as a precaution against food poisoning?
No, I just have normal insurance. Maybe I should look into that.
How does turning vegetarian appeal to you?
It’s not very appealing to me, because I like all types of food and, as a traveling gourmet, if I was to be completely vegetarian, it would be very difficult.
What do you do about your calorie intake and your figure?
I exercise a lot. I do brisk walking, jogging, swimming and ballet. As you can see, I am not that bad, thank you.
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