7. The Green Library

A collaboration project between the BMA and HSBC Thailand, this new library aims to be the most environmentally friendly public library in Asia and the first to be granted the Platinum certificate, the highest certificate in green building standards granted by the Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) in America. It will be located in the Queen’s 60th Birthday Park in the Rom Klao community, Lad Krabang, and aims to be a learning hub for the local neighborhood, while acting as a prototype for people to study how they can save energy in their everyday life. After completion, the BMA will administrate this green space.
Verdict: We hope that the BMA will follow through on their commitment and really make the place a learning hub, not just another white elephant that is underused and left to rot.

WHERE: The Queen’s 60th Birthday Park in Rom Klao, Ladkrabang district
HOW MUCH?: B30 million
WHEN?: Dec 2010
LIKELIHOOD: 4
WORTHINESS: 3/5

8. BMA Office

The city’s corridors of power are on the move, as the BMA has outgrown its old home at City Hall. This mega-project sees them leave the old town and head to a new purpose-built property in Din Daeng. The new City Hall, dubbed the Bangkok City Tower, will occupy a total of 380,000 sq meters and consist of three 27 to 37-story-high towers, an assembly hall for the councilors to meet, a glass-covered plaza and a parking building to contain all the civil servants’ BMWs. Once they do move offices, the plan is to convert the former City Hall on Dinso Road into a museum and library that focuses on the history and culture of the city.
Verdict: The new buildings have turned into a bit of a bottomless money pit. Costs have spiraled out of control and deadlines have regularly been missed: all the hallmarks of the BMA at its worst.

WHERE: Mitmaitree Road, Din Daeng
HOW MUCH?: B8 million
WHEN?: 2014
LIKELIHOOD: 5
WORTHINESS: 1/5

9. Skywalk across the Chao pHraya

Another sky walk project, and another project to honor the 84th birthday of His Majesty next year. This one will allow us all to stroll across the Chao Phraya River, without having to get our feet wet. The pedestrian bridge will stretch between Tha Prachan and Wang Lang Piers, next to Siriraj Hospital. The sky walk will be 10m wide, 300m long and will be 5.50 meters (or two stories) above the river. The BMA clearly know their citizens, though, as this is no normal footbridge; there will be fast lane slides, elevators, and even air-conditioning!
Verdict: We think it’s a great idea and a great way to try and refocus the city on the river, something that many leading capitals around the world have done so successfully. Still, a billion baht is a hefty price tag for a bridge.
WHERE: Thaprachan to Wang Lang Pier, across Chao Phraya River
HOW MUCH?: B800 million to 1 billion
WHEN?: Construction 2011 (if approved). Completion 2013.
LIKELIHOOD: 2
WORTHINESS: 3/5

10. Downtown Skywalks

The private sector, in the form of the Ratchaprasong Square Trade Association (RSTA), has plans to build the mother of all pedestrian bridges. When completed it will connect CentralWorld to Pratunam, then turn left down Petchaburi Rd., and run all the way to Ratchathewi BTS Station. Perhaps spurred on by this, the BMA has also decided to move forward on their plan to build three kilometers of skywalk connecting Siam to Victory Monument. The walkway will be situated in the space underneath the BTS line and pass via Siam, Ratchathewi, Phayathai and Victory Monument stations and also connect to the airport link station at Phayathai. There also three additional extension skywalks in the pipeline: from Wongwian Yai to Taksin bridge; from Ramkhamhaeng intersection to Hua Mak Stadium (where it will connect to a new proposed monorail from Thong Lor-Hua Mak Stadium, and, finally the most ambitious of all, an eight-kilometer stretch from Chitlom to Bang Na.
Verdict: These areas are plagued by roads too large and too dangerous to cross on foot. If these projects include some sort of green element a la New York High Line (see page 12), they will be an improvement. Of course, we would prefer pedestrian solutions that allow us to walk on the streets.

WHERE: All over Bangkok but mainly on the Sukhumvit Line and Victory Monument to Siam.
HOW MUCH?: B3.3 billion
WHEN?: Dream on.
LIKELIHOOD: 5
WORTHINESS: 3/5

11. New Bridge to the New Parliament

The new parliament building on Samsen Rd., on the banks of the Chao Phraya and due to complete in 2014, is a mega project in itself but one the government is responsible for, so we won’t waste time here commenting on how ugly and expensive we think it is. Instead, we’ll focus on the related mega project to build a new bridge to connect the area to nearby expressways and the other side of the river. The initial proposal was rejected by the government who complained that it would spoil their lovely views. The government then proposed alternative plans to build tunnels or bridges on Keawkaika Rd., or in the Bang Po area. The BMA pointed out that these alternative plans would create additional traffic, require more people to relocate not to mention cost a lot more. The plan for the tunnel was over three times more expensive and would affect 1,000 homes compared to 200 houses in the original plan. That’s before we get into the difficulties of constructing a tunnel in the swampy soil under the Chao Phraya River.
Verdict: To our untrained eye it seems obvious that sticking to the BMA’s original plan is the most sensible solution. But we’re talking politics here so that’s probably the one solution that will never happen.

WHERE: From the express way at Rama 9 to Taling Chan, with an offshoot running to Kiak Kaay intersection.
HOW MUCH?: B12 billion
WHEN?: This could take a decade.
LIKELIHOOD: 3
WORTHINESS: 1/5

Remember some of these mega old projects?

THE END OF SUAN LUM NIGHT BAZAAR

The plan: Central Pattana plans to build Thailand’s tallest building with—wait for it—a hotel and a shopping mall.
What really happened: P Con Development was given the lease in 2001, opening the bazaar one year later on the site of a former military academy. When the lease expired in March 2006, the Crown Property Bureau (CPB) asked P Con to pack up and make way for Central Pattana. Despite repeated extensions, no one budged. In January 2008, a court ruled that all traders and shopkeepers must pack their bags and leave within 30 days and pay a B100-million fine to the CPB. Finally, Suan Lum is officially closing now. They are moving to the Ratchada Night Market space, but in a purpose-built mall. Ugh!

CONNECTING SOIS

The plan: In 1994, the BMA planned to link certain sois and roads that were particularly badly planned. These 25 projects included connections between sois Insaraphap 15 and 21, between Chaeng Wattana Soi 14 and Soi Kosum Samakki and between Udomsuk soi 28 and 42.
What really happened: Faced with fierce local opposition and negative media coverage, the BMA, without officially abandoning its plans, has backed off.

RATCHADAMNOEN ROAD REVAMP

The plan: Beautify the “Champs Elysées” of Bangkok, by turning the avenue into a landmark befitting the City of Angels. Launched in 2001 under Thaksin, the 13-billion baht project included a walkway under Democracy Monument and a revamp of the sidewalks and surrounding buildings.
What really happened: The Rattanokosin Committee, the BMA and activists are still fighting over the fate of local communities in the area. The good news: for the King’s coming birthday, there is a project to use some illuminations along the avenue.

BOBAE MAKEOVER

The plan: In hopes of easing the traffic and beautifying the area, the BMA planned to drive away the vendors who illegally set up stalls on the sides of Krungkasem Road, along Klong Mahanak, as well as on Bobae Bridges 1-4.
What really happened: After numerous fights and debates on the front pages of newspapers, on May 23, 2007, HM the King gave a piece of royal property worth B9 million to create a cooperative for Bobae vendors. The sellers were to set up shop there while an underground market with a budget of B800 million would be built. Although there’s been some cleaning up on one side of the road, next to Klong Mahanak—trees, a new pavement, a pretty green iron fence—no digging is taking place.

UNDER-EXPRESSWAY DEVELOPMENT

The idea: The BMA realized it had overlooked precious plots of land lying in the shadows of the expressways of Bangkok. Some 90 plots of land, a total of 551 rai, are scattered under the expressways, most of it in a state of neglect.
What happened: Sixty three plots were to be handed over to the BMA to fight the trash and squatters that have accumulated under most of them. Deputy Governor Pichai Chaipojpanich, who was to head the commission established to organize these plots, resigned. And everyone forgot about the whole thing. Today, there are only a handful of succesfully developed zones of this type.

1. Bo.lan
42 Sukhumvit Soi 26. 02-260-2962
Trained by David Thompson, Bo and Dylan’s authentic Thai cuisine has definitely not been made redundant by the Michelin-Star chef’s arrival in town. 

2. Indus
71 Sukhumvit Soi 26. 02-258-4900
Some like their Indian food more traditional (Rang Mahal), some more modern (Red), but Indus strikes the perfect balance for our tastebuds.

3. Tenkaichi Yakiton Yakitori Nagiya
Nihonmachi 105 (behind K Village), 115 Sukhumvit Soi 26. 02-258-2790
The portable stoves cooking thick winter broths, the extensive sochu list, the macho kitchen’s loud greetings—what’s not to like here?

4. Sorn-Thong
Between Sukhumvit 24 and 26, on Rama4 Rd. 02-258-0118
Packed every night with families, and the occasional celeb, hungry for their fresh seafood cooked Thai-Chinese style, particulalry the crab dishes.

5. Sugarlust
59/27 Sukhumvit 26, 084-011-4115. Open Mon-Fri 11am-midnight, Sat-Sun 11-1am. www.sugarlustcafe.com
This cute space in a classic 60s Sukhumvit home is filled with plenty of colorful furniture and retro touches. As the name suggests, Sugar Lust serves everything from double chocolate cheese cake and mixed fruit and yogurt muesli with honey to more substantial dishes like, ohk ped gei tuen (steamed duck breast with vegetable) or fried shrimp with Sugar Lust sauce.

B linded by the current K Village frenzy, you may have overlooked the myriad stalls between it and Carrefour. So get off your high horse and pop into these street-side gems.

Across Bangjak Gas Station (entrance of Sukhumvit Soi 26 from Sukhumvit Rd.) is a stall (089-040-2487. Open Tue-Sun 6am-4pm) that does a range of (A) Isaan food from kai yang (B40) to kor moo yang (B50), laab (B40) and nam tok (B40)—and, of course, somtam (B30). Try their popular tam sua Thai pu (B30), which comes with salted crab and khanom jeen (vermicelli noodles) for the same cheap price. It’s not as fishy as it sounds, though the flavors of the salted crab and chili do stand out very strongly.

A few steps up the street on the corner of a small soi is a non air-conditioned noodle restaurant, (B) Rung Rueng (10/1-2 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-258-6744. Open Mon-Fri 8:30am-4:30pm), which is a family-run business. They offer only one dish: noodles with pork and fish (B40-50). Their pork broth is rich and flavorful, as are the fixings of liver, intestine, look chin pla (fish balls), minced pork and chicken. (If you’re fresh off the boat, the owner’s daughter speaks English.) Just be warned this place gets packed on weekends. Always the sign of a good retaurant.

After a long trek up the street, past reputable venues like Indus and Bo. Lan, you’ll eventually reach K Village. Right after the soi running between it and Carrefour, the narrow sidewalk becomes crowded with small stalls. One easy way to spot this (C) somtam and kaeng om stall (089-521-8378. Open daily 9:30am-6pm) is to look down: instead of plastic chairs and tables, they provide the customers with mats. Get ready for true street-level dining, watching wheels and heels passing by. Not exactly romantic but definitely different and tasty. They serve barbequed chicken, beef, pork, and fish on a stick (B10-20), hor mok (B20), somtam (B20) and laab (B30). And don’t forget to try their namesake kaeng om (B30), an Isaan soup with a lot of vegetables and meats of your choice.

If you head into the soi between the mall and the hypermarket, you will see another chain of food stalls. Don’t stop until you reach
a busy stall (084-525-8851. Open everyday 7am-3pm) that is directly facing the entrance of K Village Gate A. The stall’s (D) bitter gourd chili paste chicken noodle or kway teo kai mara prik pao (B25-30) is well-known in the area. It is usually surrounded with people and closes by 3pm. If you can get your hands on a bowl, you will know why. It’s a protein rich bowl of chicken: breast, leg, and liver with a very clean flavor and, to spice things up, their signature chili paste. You can also choose to have either boiled or fresh, crunchy mara (bitter gourd) for even more flavor.

Another stall that is a hit with the locals is the (E) Khao Man Kai stall (088-365-4964. Open everyday 6am-3pm) with blue tables, just a few stalls down from the bitter gourd. Like other khao man kai stores, they offer a choice of steamed chicken (B25-30), fried chicken (B30) or both (B30-40) on rice. The moist steamed chicken is so soft and tender that you hardly even have to chew. On the other hand, the fried chicken brings are crispy and crunchy, without being greasy. Both make for a perfect combination, and will leave you with plenty of energy to tackle a shopping spree at K Village with all that money you just saved by eating on a dime.

“This film quickly moves to the top of the list of ‘Most Purposeless Use of 3D’ beating out The Last Airbender and Clash of the Titans with ease.” Jeff Bayer, The Scorecard Review

“Just another Wes Craven kills kids running around in the woods movie.” Joshua Tyler, CinemaBlend.com

“The highlight of the film, in fact, is a freaky bird costume...that actually vomits and defecates upon its audience. It’d be nice to think the director were self-aware enough to recognize the obvious parallel.” Luke Y. Thompson, E! Online

“It’s good, theoretically at least, to have Craven back. But why come back for this?” Keith Phipps, AV Club

“So utterly awful that it should have been renamed My Time to Waste.” Brian Salisbury, Hollywood.com

Are shop houses endangered?
You’re the first one I hear worrying about their survival. The urban fabric in Bangkok is a result of its regulations and shop houses offer some of the least restrictions—hence their popularity. If you build a mall, you have to deal with certain regulations, you have to have parking. If you have a plot of land and no space for parking, you can just build a shop house. That’s why they’re all over Thailand. It’s the simplest and cheapest option.

But people now live in condos and shop in malls. Aren’t shop houses more charming?
Sure, I like the idea of shop houses. It’s the Bangkok of 30-40 years ago. You do business on the ground floor, live on the second floor. Now, people live in a condo on top and the commercial space is at its foot, but it’s the same thing, really. Only it has spawned horizontally. But I like the idea of mixed-use spaces in the city. It’s crucial.

Any chance for the shop house model to be revived?
I don’t think anyone is actively trying to preserve it but it’s true that it’s dying in some areas, mostly because you can’t park there, such as around the flower market. But as the master plan for public transport in Bangkok is implemented, I think people will start to walk on the streets again. And with the introduction of mass transit and more walking, shop houses will return. It’s happening in Thong Lor because people can park and it’s close to the main transport system.

What’s the main issue with shop houses, from an architectural standpoint?
I mentioned parking but the first issue with a shop house is light. Shop houses are designed to be built side by side, so it’s not very healthy. They can go really deep and you have to deal with that, either with artificial or natural light. The other issue is fire exits. But actually, the whole point of the shop house is that it’s a blank canvas. It gives you a lot of flexibility.

Read tips on how to decorate a shophouse from Ekkapong Tritrong,  Head of the Faculty of Decorative Arts, Silpakorn University

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What inspired you to write Tok Taeng Teuk Thaew Hai Na Yoo, about redecorating shop houses?
Many people live in shop houses and it’s quite a cramped space. I wanted to explore better ways for living in this type of building. Nowadays, shop houses can also be the face of a town or city if they have a distinctive look. Just look at the colonial style shop houses in Bangrak.

Why are shop houses so popular?
You can’t do business in a standalone house. Shop houses are much more multipurpose.

What are the three top rules when thinking of renovating a shop house?
First, the design must allow for good air circulation and plenty of natural light. Second, get a qualified engineer to check out the shop house’s structure tosee what condition it is in. Finally, consider
your neighbors. Make sure you don’t upset them.

Phuket Town: New Old Fashion                

All about shophouses: a Q&A with celebrated architect Duangrit Bunnag