Taan, the Siam@Siam’s local-leaning fine dining pioneer, has just unveiled a new menu featuring the monsoon season’s lush bounty. From bamboo shoots that spring up with the first rains to honey that’s harvested only in the fifth month of the year, the menu (six courses B1,600; nine courses B2,500) delivers complex, hearty flavors using less common ingredients.

Executive chef Monthep “Thep” Kamolsilp has partnered with top local artisanal producers to track down these monsoon season ingredients, but the culinary wizardry is all him. Expect dishes like crispy gobi fish from Yala served with fried bamboo shoots, giant catfish roe and seasonal yanang mushroom sauce; Surat Thani oysters, baby squid and grouper slathered in a longan-inflected golae (a coconut milk-based marinade popular in southern Thailand), flame-grilled and served with bitter bean relish; and frog legs with northern Thai herbs, tamarind-flavored, biodynamic pork belly and roasted sticky rice. That dish makes use of field frogs, which come out as soon as the rains appear.

One of the standouts, however odd it may sound, is the congee chef Thep serves at the end of the meal. It’s packed with organic black chicken from Chiang Mai, cured duck egg, crispy pork belly, shaved and stir-fried bitter beans, and northern-style crab paste.

These bold and often sustainable dishes are paired with organic wines hand-picked by Wine Garage, including a highly memorable Weiser-Künstler Trarbacher Schlossberg Riesling Kabinett from Germany’s Mosel Valley.

Wed-Sun 6-10:30pm. 25/F Siam@Siam Design Hotel, 065-328-7374