After a three-month hiatus, Suan Phlu’s award show-climber Saawaan is back in action with a new 10-course tasting menu (B1,980).

Following the format of a traditional Thai meal and drawing inspiration from street food culture, chefs Sujira “Aom” Pongmorn and Arisara “Paper” Chongphanitkul highlight regional flavors using premium local products. Think tangy gaeng som with barracuda from Ranong and in-season snakefruit; smoked Nakhon Pathom quail with an awesome somtam dressing; and sweet-savory beef tongue gaeng massaman, featuring a homemade curry paste, almonds and grapes.

The menu showcases different methods common in Thai cooking—boiling, charcoal-grilling, fermenting, the use of raw ingredients—and every dish features the creative flair we’ve come to expect from chef Aom. The stir-fried frog pad cha, for instance, arrives on a lotus pad and features a river weed crisp and “rain drops” of lesser ginger-laced sauce. For dessert, chef Paper showcases Thai chocolate from Chantaburi, Chumporn and Chiang Mai in a deeply satisfying combination of choux, crémeux and ice cream. To drink, you can select from a carefully curated pairing of Old and New World wines (B1,890), or opt for the exclusive tea pairing (B680), which features wild, jungle-grown teas, plus kombucha, from Monsoon Teas.

39/19 Soi Suan Phlu, 02-679-3775