The new head chef at RE 234, the Rama V-inspired house in Phrom Phong, has given the menu a sharper Thai focus.

 

Under the helm of Phuket Karnjanaviroje (whose background includes stints at the Mandarin Oriental here and in London), out goes the hodgepodge of Euro and Thai classics in favor of a shorter menu big on well-detailed, produce-driven Thai dishes.

 

The pad kaprao (B190), for example, only uses red holy basil, bird-eye chilis and Thai garlic, while his gaeng ranjuan (shrimp paste soup, B250) features three-hour-simmered beef rib fingers.

 

Now that the beautiful restaurant has equally beautiful food to match, we recommend a revisit.