Bright, cheesy, and with an eye on authenticity.
The buzz: Mexican food is booming in Bangkok. It’s more than popular, it’s serious. Now, it’s serious. Chef Gaby Espinosa is behind Delia, previously the head chef behind Ms. Maria and Mr. Singh, and it’s her first standalone spot. The new Mexican space north of Chinatown on the Thanon Santiphap is part of a growing theme of Mexican fare that’s aiming for authenticity. 
 
 
The food: The centerpiece for this new venue is the comal, a cast iron flat griddle for cooking tortillas and arepas. BK stopped in for their brunch menu and a little off of their all-day dining options. First off, the pan de dulce (B100), a traditional sweet bread, might be a dish you want to finish with rather than start because it’s sweet with a capital “S”. The quesadilla (B190), made on the comal, comes uncut and very cheesy with salsa tatemada to complement the enoki tinga. The taco de pastor con queso (B240) takes its protein from charcoal grilled pork jowl, topped with a big chunk of pineapple with salsa roja. The cheese on top is charred to a tasty brown but not burnt, almost too tough to cut—a savory touch that cuts the tartness of the pineapple. 
 

 
The drinks: Though there for lunch, the venue has a selection of cocktails from the familiar—such as the margarita and margarita “de la casa” with a touch of smoked coconut. They also boast a michelada and a selection of mezcal cocktails like the Guayaba and Tomate. Wines by the bottle start at B1,850. 
 
The vibe: Sleek, but with a few idiosyncratic touches to keep things fun. The spot takes its corn seriously, which you’ll see as soon as you walk through the door. Behind the bar area, the comal is out in the open to watch the toasting of your dishes. The exterior is kind of hard to miss on this soi, with floor-to-ceiling windows that make this a bright spot for brunch.
 
 
 
Why we’d come back: We said on our Mexican restaurant roundup that you’d be hearing more about this place, and you will. We’d like to pop back for a dinner bite and sample their mezcal. 
 
306 Thanon Santiphap, 092 283 6494. Tue-Thu 6-11pm; Fri-Sun 11:30am-3:30pm, 6-11pm.
 
 
 
 

Advertisement

Leave a Comment