6 Thai restaurants that don’t play by the rules
Inventive, bold and experimental.
Feeling iffy about the idea of innards? This place might change your mind. Just off of Charoenkrung, this nose-to-tail restaurant is helmed by chef Chalee Kader (The Beer Bridge, Holy Moly). Here, they turn the odds and ends of meats into Isaan and Northern-inspired dishes fit for even the most discerning of palates. Opt for the Instagram-worthy charcoal-roasted bone marrow, and various cuts of local dry-aged beef and offals on skewers.
100 Mahaset Rd., Bangkok, Thailand, 02-235-0023. Open daily 5-10pm.
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This hipster hangout got a classy update in 2019, which saw the addition of wine pairings, tasting menus and even a dedicated fermentation room. It’s put to good use too, as you’ll see from their seasonal tasting menus. Their B3,000 10-course menu this season features gaeng som, lobster crudo and slow-cooked pork belly with a black garlic glaze. The focus on fermentation allows the Michelin starred-restaurant to stand out when it comes to new ways to interpret Thai food.
80/20, 1052-1054 Charoen Krung Soi 26, Bangkok, Thailand, 099 118 2200, 02 234 2822. Open Fri-Sun 11am-noon; Wed-Sun 6pm-8pm (accept reservation).
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Nestled in a converted shophouse in Thonglor, this “Thai-style izakaya” keeps you coming back for more with their creative spin on traditional street food favorites. It’s not a huge menu, but comforting classics such as khao soi are done right, and the ever-elusive yam hua phlee also makes an appearance. Whichever dish speaks to your soul, make sure to wash it down with one of their trademark double pour cocktails.
56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), Bangkok, Thailand, 02-714-7708. Open daily 5:30-11:30pm; Sat-Sun 11:30am-2:30pm.
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Quality ingredients and expert culinary techniques are a staple here, with chef couple Duangporn Songvisava and Dylan Jones from the inimitable Bo.lan at helm. Err has relocated to Sukhumvit 53 in eco-gastronomy space among like-minded brand. Err complements unusual yet pleasantly surprising dishes like their "pak dong ruan" skewers (B65), which combine pickled garlic, turnip and mustard. The cocktails with hard-to-find local spirits are a bonus, and will be the reason for repeat visits
24 Sukhumvit 53 Alley, Khlong Tan Nuea, Watthana, 0-2622-2292. Open Tue-Sun 11:30am-3pm, 5pm-11pm.
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Despite what the prime view of Wat Arun might lead you to believe, this Thai restaurant isn’t just another tourist trap. The hip haunt doles out elevated versions of traditional favorites like gaeng kiaw wan, ribeye pad krapao and tom yum served in a traditional clay pot. Don’t skip the signature cocktails like the Golden Flower and Mama Bangkok either.
392/16 Maharaj, Bangkok, Thailand, 096 946 1785. Open daily 11am-10pm.
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Old and new converge at this Michelin-starred restaurant. Here, traditional Thai cuisine gets a modern update while keeping to ancient styles of preparation courtesy of Chef Noom Thaninthorn Chantrawan. Only high quality produce is used, resulting in exquisite dishes that are a treat for the senses.
66 Sukhumvit Soi 31,66 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-260-7811. Open daily noon-2pm, 6-10:30pm
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