Delicious, fragrant rice should always be served while it’s hot, as we all know. But every rule has an exception, and every summer is the time to serve khao chae, or “chilled rice.”

Khao chae, a Mon dish that was traditionally made during Songkran, is made with half-cooked rice that is rinsed with water several times in order to remove all the starch. Once the rice looks really clean, it is cooked one more time.

Khao chae is served in scented water, nam dok mali, that is prepared the night before. The traditional way to make it is to fill a clay pot with cold water and add fresh jasmine blossoms. The next step is to (carefully) float a jasmine-scented candle on the water, and then cover for 15 minutes. (The flame will go out.) Repeat. The water sits in the clay pot overnight. When it’s time to serve, add the rice and water in individual serving bowls and toss a bit of fresh jasmine on top.

Major Sidekicks

Khao chae alone is refreshing but a bit bland, which is why there are so many side dishes. Favorites include luk kapi (deep fried shimp paste balls), hom daeng yud sai (deep fried stuffed shallots), chai pow phat (stir fried dry turnip), small fried fish, muu or nueng sawan (shredded sweet pork or beef), prik yuak sord sai (green chili pepper stuffed with minced pork and shrimp wrapped in crispy egg net) and slices of green mango and cucumber.

For the original Mon-style khao chae, you’ll need to go to Koh Kret, Nontaburi or Phra Pradaeng during the Songkran festival. But royal Thai and Thai-style khao chae are available all over town this time of year.

Chillin’ in Fun City

Dba 
22 Soi Areesumphun 3, Phahon Yothin Rd., 02-617-0041. Open daily 11am-10pm.
AE, MC, V
Set (B170): khao chae, luk kapi, hom dang yud sai, prik yuak sord sai, muu wan (shredded sweet pork), chai pow pad khai (stir-fried dry turnip with egg), cucumber, green mango and khra chai. Mar 1-30.

Fangnam Coffee House
Royal River Hotel, 219 Soi Charansanitwong 66/1, 02-422-9222 ext. 1310, www.royalrivergroup.com. Open daily 11:30am-2pm. MC, V
Set (B280): khao chae, luk kapi, hom dang yud sai, prik yuak sord sai, chai pow pad, pla sai tan, muu sawan, green mango, cucumber and khra chai; traditional Thai coffee. Through May 15.

Kalaprapruek
1/F, All Seasons Place, 87/2 Wireless Rd., 02-685-3860. Open daily 7am–10pm. AE, D, MC, V
Set (B150): khao chae, luk kapi, prik yuak thord yud sai (fried green chili pepper stuffed with minced pork wrapped in crispy egg net), khai dang kem (salted egg yolk), nhung phra kem chubb numtan (salty fish skin mixed with sugar), green mango and cucumber. Through the end of Songkran, or call in advance for special order.

Lai Rod
120/4-5 Suhkumvit 49, 02-391-3193. Open daily 11am–10pm.
122 Phra Ram 6 Rd., 02-279-2895. Open daily 11am–10pm. Set (B140): khao chae, luk kapi, prik yuak sord sai, hom thod sord sai phra (deep fried shallots stuffed with fish), phra wan (sweet fish), neur foi or moo foi (shredded pork or meat), chai pow pad wan (sweet stir-fried daikon). Available all year. 

Royal Princess Café
Royal Princess Larn Luang, 269 Larn Luang Rd., Pomprab, 02-281-3088 ext. 129. Open daily 6am-10pm. AE, MC, V
Set (B160): khao chae, luk kapi, hua hom yud sai, prik yuak sord sai, muu foi or neur foi (shredded sweet pork or pork), green mango, green onion and cucumber. Through Apr 30.

Than Ying
10 Pramuan Rd., between Silom 15 and Silom 17, 02-236-4361 and 02-235-0371. Open daily 11:30am-10pm. AE, D, MC, V
Set (B250): khao chae, luk kapi, hom thod (deep fried shallots), prik yuak yud sai moo (green chili pepper stuffed with minced pork, chai pow pad khai (stir-fried dry turnip with egg) and neur wan (shredded sweet meat). Through Apr 30.

Thara Tong
Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel, 2 Captain Bush Lane, Siphya Rd., 02-266-9214, www.sheraton.com/bangkok. Open daily noon-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm. AE, D, MC, V
Set (B450): khao chae, kapi (fermented shrimp paste), hom dand thord sod sai pa (deep fried shallots stuffed with fish), neur sawan foi (shredded and salted beef fried with plam sugar), chai pow ped pud wan (white Chinese radish fried with egg), prik yuak sord sai (chili peppers stuffed with seasoned minced pork wrapped in thin sheets of fried egg-white) and khra chai. Apr 12–15.  

Thon Krueng
239 Thonglor Soi 13, 02-391-8703, 02-391-8719. Open daily 11am-10:30pm. MC, V
Set (B140): khao chae (with kadanggha, mali flower, and candle fragrant), luk kapi, hom dang yud sai, prik yuak sord sai, chai pow pad wan (stir-fried sweet dry turnip), muu foi (shredded sweet pork), cucumber, thon hom (green onion) and khra chai. Through May 30.