Why we love it: Set in a stately old mansion that’s been done up to be bright and bold, Chef Ian Kittichai’s Issaya Siamese Club also provides a vibrant and exciting take on traditional Thai cooking. The menu manages a high-wire act of being resolutely traditional and thought-provoking in equal measure. Whether you opt for the vivid blue dining room or the beanbags on the lawn, you can expect plenty of atmosphere to go with your curry.
The menu: The focus is on classic Thai cuisine, though most dishes are given a little twist, notably through artful presentation and the use of sort-after ingredients. The ever-changing market menu also throws in seasonal specials. The desserts have proven particularly popular, with Chef Ian using progressive culinary techniques to craft creative interpretations of traditional Thai sweets.
What to eat: Try the yum nuar (B320), tender imported beef balanced on mini-towers of salad, or the chili-glazed baby back ribs (B380) which are decadently sticky and sweet. Importantly, other dishes like the gang hung lay (pork belly in spicy curry in Northern Thai style, B580) don’t hold back on the spice. Just make sure you leave room for those desserts, where Kittichai is at his most inventive. The kanom moh geang cha Thai (B220) is a case in point, an out-there reinterpretation that brings the flavors of Thai tea to a classic crème brulee. And don’t skimp on the kanom ko (Thai style sticky rice ice-cream, B230). Set dinner are also available with prices starting from B1,350.
What to drink: The ginger, tangerine and passion fruit iced teas (B150) are favorites. As for cocktails, they recommend the Kaffir Lime (Bacardi rum, kaffir lime, mint and lemongrass, B330).
4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chuaphloeng Rd., 02-672-9040-1. Open daily 11:30am-3pm; 6pm-midnight
Why we love it: From the same folks behind Four Garcons, Joe’s Table is an altogether more fun and casual affair, from the blue geometrical partition to the yellow and white striped canopy. Chef Van and his team have studied the local cuisine served at many down-to-earth eateries in Vietnam in order to replicate the most authentic flavors. We think the results are both impressive and very affordable.
The menu: Comfort food that captures the owners’ childhood memories, including Vietnamese cuisine that uses many French techniques.
What to eat: While there’s a long list of Italian and French dishes, not to mention other cuisines, we can’t move past the Vietnamese offerings. The cha go (Vietnamese spring rolls, B180) come with a wrapping similar to rhoom (flour wrapping). The pork belly with Vietnamese shrimp paste and fried rice (B170) is also highly recommended, along with the cha ca (fish fillets marinated with dill and turmeric, B250) which packs plenty of flavor thanks to the market-fresh ingredients.
What to drink: Seasonal fruit juices (B120), TWG tea (B125) or a cocktail (B200).
2/F, The Promenade, Ramintra Rd., Bangkok, 02-947-5691. Open daily 10am-10pm
Why we love it: The new baby from the folks behind Hyde & Seek is already packed most nights with curious customers drawn as much by the premise of locally-sourced ingredients and nose-to-tail dining as the cool vibe provided by the industrial tone and butcher’s tools lining the walls. Smith is led by Chef Peter Pitakwong and mixologist Chanond Purananda, from Hyde & Seek, who both appear to have their fingers on the pulse of Bangkok’s foodie trends.
The menu: The menu is heavily dependent on what ingredients or cuts can be sourced from local farmers, from veal heart to calf’s tongue.
What to eat: Meat is the main event here: slow-roasted lamb ribs with coffee spice rub, celery puree and mint jelly (B2,350 for 1.3kg); tuna with braised pig’s tail and foie gras torchon with foraged vegetables, rosemary, citrus and peas (B250); or opt for the mini haggis with whisky and sweet potato (B210), while you wait for their garden to open and they start barbecuing whole cows.
What to drink: Smith certainly gives you the chance to drink up with the option to buy an entire keg (B7,500 for 30-liter Heineken or B14,000 for 20-liter Hoegaarden) which they will hold for up to four days. And you can expect some manly and ingredient-focused cocktails like the Philip Smith (smoked apple, bourbon and lemon, B280).
1/8 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-261-0515-6. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 6pm-midnight
Why we love it: The second generation owner of Thai eatery Naj brought us this new concept restaurant which focuses on authentic local dishes and regional products in a fine-dining setting. It’s set in a 100-year-old house that’s painted in the color of mohom (traditional blue Northern farmers’ shirts) and neatly decorated with inspiration from places like the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market and the Royal Supannahong barge.
The menu: The name of the restaurant says it all. Here you’ll be challenged with hard-to-find Thai recipes from the Rama V era or Siam’s first cookbook, Mae Krua Hua Pa. There’s also a chef’s table where the owner runs cooking lessons.
What to eat: The young owner, Can Markawat, not only cooks but is also an inveterate traveler who picks up ingredients such as som saa (Asian citrus) and Andaman abalone along the way. Taste them in intriguing dishes like gang kua hoy kong talay bai som pan kee maa (Andaman abalone in curry paste served with Southern leaf, B280). The gang run juan (beef in spicy herbal soup, B240) is also highly recommended, while the moo hong (roasted pork belly, B240) is a nice accompaniment. End your meal with their homemade ice cream (coconut, mango and Thai tea ice cream served with Thai dessert, B180).
What to drink: Mixologist Karn Liangsrisuk came up with a bunch of cocktails which stick to the concept of fresh local ingredients. Try the Dragon Mojito (mojito mixed with dragon fruit and pineapple, B220) or the Safflower (Mekhong whisky, Galliano, safflower petals, pineapple juice and orange juice, B220). Their kaffir lime Thai iced tea (B110) is another top call, and the owner tells us they plan on packaging it and selling it elsewhere.
32-32/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-3360-1. BTS Asoke. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-11:30pm
Why we love it: Set in a charming old house, Quince runs with a similar country-classic theme to Casa Pagoda next-door—not surprising given one of the partners owns the fashionable furniture joint. The eatery goes for a casual and rustic ambiance that’s not limited to one style, so you also get an industrial vibe from some of the European furniture and posters. The kitchen’s focus is all about sustainability, ethical eating and local produce.
The menu: Impressive, home cooking that’s down to earth. Chef Barnes dubs it a “market” menu and it changes frequently depending on what produce they get in on the day.
What to eat: As mentioned, the menu just keeps on changing, but dishes like roast carrots with shallot, honey and poppy seed (B130) showcase the straightforward but delightful objective of the place. The chef is also very interested in the nose-to-tail philosophy so you can expect dishes like roast bone marrow and toast (B250). Local produce also pops up in meat dishes like the Pakchong beef scotch fillet with tomato relish and asparagus rice cake (B750). If you’re after something big to share, try the whole shoulder of lamb (1.5 kg, B1,800).
What to drink: Mixologist Joseph Baroski serves a confident array of cocktails, split into retro and modern selections. Try the Quince Vesper (vodka, gin, lilet white, house-made Quince bitters, B240).
Sukhumvit Soi 45, 02-662-4478. Open daily 11:30am-1am (last order 10:30pm). www.quincebangkok.com
Why we love it: Water Library Thonglor takes the high foodie ideals of its wealthy owner to new heights with something totally revolutionary for Bangkok: a restaurant that serves a maximum of ten diners per night. It’s part meal, part theater, with the team of chefs preparing the plates in front of you and then explaining the ingredients.
The menu: This is a tasting menu with a difference. Service starts at 7:30pm and they wait for every diner to show up before starting the regularly changing 12-course menu.
What to eat: You’ve only one option here (B6,600). All the dishes look very modern with the army of chefs (from Thailand, Europe and Singapore) employing plenty of gastro tricks like foams and emulsions to reinterpret the textures and flavors. Right now it’s all about sourcing the best ingredients, with dishes like poached Brittany lobster with pumpkin compression and veloute of sea urchin or Bluefin tuna belly with Jerusalem artichoke ragout and Merlot reduction.
What to drink: Italian Mirko Gardellino, who spent years as a mixologist in Germany, delivers an impressive menu of unique cocktails like the Bangkok Basil (B280) which uses homemade gin infused with basil, lemon, sugarcane and Haribo Goldbears. There’s also a sexy darkly-lit bar across the courtyard that offers a long list of great wines. Finally, you can opt for a wine pairing to go with the menu that will cost you an additional B1,800 and gets you six different wines, or an exceptional pairing that costs an additional B10,200 and requires a minimum of five people.
G/F, The Grass, Thonglor Soi 12, 02-714-9292-3. www.mywaterlibrary.com. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-1am, dinner starts at 7.30pm
Why we love it: Owned by three foodie friends who all finished cooking school, this ocean-themed restaurant is decorated with lots of navy blue and a rippled white ceiling to offset it all, evoking either waves or the ribs of a whale’s belly. The set lunch has proven an instant hit at just B500 (three-course) while the dinner set menu is B1,700 (four-course).
The menu: One of the owners, Mai Apirawit, did a stint in Le Normandie’s kitchen, so you can expect fairly classic European techniques and some Asian sensibilities.
What to eat: Set sail with the refreshing timbale of avocado and crab (blue crab rillette, guacamole, lumpfish roe and honeydew gazpacho, B520) or head inland with the earthier duck & beets (smoked duck breast, pickled beetroot, needle beans and lemon vinaigrette, B420). Despite the Normandie-cred, there are also Asian-inspired touches in dishes like the lacquered Chilean seabass with orange miso emulsion, shiitake and teriyaki sauce (B890).
What to drink: There’s a proper bar to park yourself at before sitting down to your meal. The cocktails were developed by Karn Liangsrisuk, of Escapade Burgers & Shakes. So expect ingredient-focused specials like the Traditional Clove Martini (clove oil, Galliano, pineapple juice, lime juice, cinnamon syrup, B220) or Together Forever (cucumber, lychee vodka, Campari, cranberry juice, pink grapefruit juice, B250).
39 Boulevard, 41 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-160-0333. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm
Why we love it: Nestled in a restored, old house that’s beautifully decorated in a modern Moroccan style, Parata Diamond is packed with exquisite details, from the charming bathroom where you can try on outfits belonging to top Thai designers, to the handsome bar and sensual, all-black lounge. One of the owners has a keen interest in art, too, so keep an eye out for their backyard events which range from exhibitions to stage shows.
The menu: Chef Nhoi Ouypornchaisakul has brought back New American-style cuisine from a four-year stint at culinary school in the USA. Expect everything from snacks, salads, pastas and meat dishes concocted from mostly locally-sourced ingredients.
What to eat: Start with the summer watermelon and bread salad (foccacia croutons, balsamic and creamy basil drizzle, B250) or Harissa lamb strudels (crispy homemade lamb phyllo with harrissa topped with slow roasted pears and apricot relish, B260). Move onto the grilled beef skirt steak with flour tortillas, chimmichurri, cilantro and mint slaw (B570). The chef herself buys all the ingredients fresh from the market, including the beef.
What to drink: Their recommended cocktails are the Parata Prae, which is for 5-6 people, or opt for the Ahmed (bitter swizzle, B320) before enjoying the shisha. Happy hours are Mon-Thu 6:30-10pm, with buy-one-get-one-free cocktails.
396 Ekkamai Soi 24, 085-167-6489. Open daily 6:30-1am
Set in the luxurious Oriental Residence, Café Claire (Wireless Rd., 02-125-9000) is an elevated diner that is perfect for any time of day. The brief menu has both Western and Thai dishes, with a casual slant that works from breakfast to dinner. Dine on their Diplomat Set Lunch for B650 (three-courses) or opt for à la carte dishes like miso-glazed snow fish (B480) and braised Wagyu beef cheek (B490).
The signature Thai restaurant of The Siam, Chon (3/2 Khao Rd., Dusit, 02-206-6999. www.thesiamhotel.com) sits in a beautiful Thai house beside the Chao Phraya River. Recommended dishes include the gaeng hunglay moo (Northern curry with kurobuta pork belly, B400) and the tender grilled chicken served with somtam. Want to try this at home? Chef Blair Mathieson also runs a cooking class.
Designed to recreate the atmosphere of an opulent Parisian apartment, the French cuisine of L’Appart (32/F, Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-126-9999) is created by Chef Jeremy Tourret who used to work at three-Michelin-star New York restaurant Daniel. Tourret’s passion for Thai produce is clear in dishes like ginger, lemongrass and kaffir steam salmon fillet served with vegetables (B690).
Somtam Der (5/5 Saladaeng Rd., 02-632-4499) is run by a partner of Minibar Royale, whose family also owns Suppanniga, a charming boutique hotel in Khon Kaen. The owner tells us that the objective is to steer our taste buds back towards Northern Isaan. Try the tam sua Sakon Nakhon (B65), which comes with freshwater crab and kratin beans.
Thai Lao Yeh (14/29 SukhumvitSoi 45, 02-259-2871-3) promises street flavors in a boutique hotel setting that blends Thai style with a touch of 1920s Shanghai. There’s no holding back on the spices, just an extensive menu of classic and authentic Isaan, Northern and Laotian dishes. Try the fresh and aromatic laab Laos (B150).
For something with real street soul, head to Ko Khum (2/F, Liberty Plaza Bld., Soi Thonglor, 085-679-6615) which is owned by the people behind the now-closed Sode Samo. We recommend the somtam hoy dong (spicy papaya salad with marinated cockles, B60) and Laab Ja-ruad (spicy shredded pork with herbs, B80).
US chain 25 Degrees (G/F, Pullman G Hotel, 188 Silom Rd. 02-238-1991) is the latest arrival to Bangkok’s boutique burger scene offering a 24-hour upscale diner featuring plenty of red leather and mirrors. The menu offers some DIY with a ‘build your own’ option (starting from B210) that lets you pick from an impressive list of sauces, cheeses and toppings, plus the cocktails are pretty good, too.
Escapade Burgers & Shakes’ cute little shophouse (112 PhraAthit Rd., 081-406-3773) is part burger bar and part cocktail joint. The cocktails are inventive, the shakes are divine and there’s a brief but satisfying choice of burgers from the Angus beef burger (also available in pork, B180) to the Quarter Cow (two beef patties, two slices of cheddar cheese with truffle sauce, B280).
Owned by a group of friends, Burger Factory (3 Ekkamai Soi 10, 02-714-4249) is taking homemade to the next level with almost everything on the menu made from scratch—from the patty to the buns. Try the signature Factory Burger, served with caramelized onions, sweet raw onions, and spicy sauce (B290).
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