The new spring/summer menus of this city’s top-tier restaurants could spell make or break for who makes it into the upcoming first edition of Bangkok’s Michelin guide. With the book expected to drop around November, it’s as much as given that the inspectors are already in town and doing the rounds.

Water Library Chamchuri, the debut flagship for what has grown into one of the city’s greatest restaurant empires, is banking big on a new eight-course tasting menu (B2,800) from German head chef Mirco Keller.

Though he likes to keep a lower profile than the Gaggans and Tons of Bangkok, don’t be fooled: Keller remains one of the city’s top chefs, and isn’t afraid to break with culinary tradition.

A sweet raw shrimp sashimi, for example, comes with the unlikely flavor pairing of wasabi and parmesan ice cream, while his signature of perfectly roasted Bresse pigeon now has the flavors of dashi­ stock and pickled daikon root.

More oriental nods appear in the dumplings of creamy pea puree that accompany his Berkshire pork belly in a decadently rich jus, as well as the dessert of unsweetened Thai maiyongchit fruit sorbet—good for until the season ends in a couple weeks’ time.

Water Library Chamchuri, 2/F, Chamchuri Square, Rama 4 Rd., 061-852-5411. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 6-10pm. MRT Sam Yan

First course: botan ebi sashimi with beetroot, wasabi and parmesan ice cream

Second course: Berkshire pork belly with green pea dumplings and ginger

Main course: Bresse pigeon with dashi mustard and daikon root