When I used to make costumes for my high school plays, there was just one place to find the best selection of fabric at bargain prices: Pahurat Market. And nothing has changed; Pahurat is still where the pros go, from amateur costume designers to expert tailors. It’s also part of the biggest Indian community in Bangkok, so you might expect it to be dominated by Indian-style merchandise. But Pahurat has everything from beautiful sari material to basic outfits, not to mention beaded sandals, costume jewelry and an awesome array of silk scarves.

Pahurat market is located on Pahurat Road between Chak Phet and Tri Phet Roads. Pahurat Road was constructed in 1898 in the era of King Chulalongkorn as a memorial for his young daughter, Princess Pahurat Maneemai, who passed away. Pahuarat later became a largely Sikh community and a hub of fabric trading, from basic curtain materials to haute couture textiles for evening gowns.

The first thing to do on arriving is fuel up for your shopping spree with a nice steak and a sweet, crispy roti, across the road from Poh Chang College. Then start wandering.

The first place that caught our eye was a small, modern wedding supply shop with a Siam Square look: clean white exterior, floor-to-ceiling windows and cute trinkets displayed inside. The attentive staff at Viriya (330-332 Pahurat Rd., 02-225-8284, www.idealoungegroup.com) can help you find everything you need for a perfect wedding, including invitation cards, customized wedding favors and gifts—and if they don’t have what you want, they’ll custom-make it. Idea Lounge, the company that owns the shop, also retails cards at Siam Paragon. Just few steps from Viriya you’ll find Gandhi (326 Pahurat Rd., 02-225-5997/5503, www.gandhi.co.th), a long-running fabric outlet offering a wide variety of products but with an upscale focus. That means imported lace, satin and silk. Though it has been operating since 1944, there’s no sign of aging—everything is new and clean, and a big plasma TV plays Chic Channel at all times.

If you’re ready to leave behind the main thoroughfares and enter the maze of alleys that make up the market, turn down any one toward the sewing and tailoring market (like a budget Savile Row), where many khun pas with sewing machines help you turn raw fabric into a custom-made outfit in minutes. These freelancers originally occupied Ming Muang Market across the street (where Old Siam Plaza now stands), but moved here when Ming Muang was demolished in 1978. As you continue along the alleys, you’ll find fabric, fabric and more fabric. The textiles these vendors sell are cheaper (both in price and quality) than the big boys outside. Take your time and compare prices—the deals are there.

At the center of this area lies Thailand’s first Sikh temple Gurudwara Sri Guru Singh Sabha (565 Chak Phet Rd., 02-224-8097/-8, 02-221-1011) with its eye-catching golden domes and traditional Sikh architecture unchanged since 1933. (To go inside, women must cover their hair.)

Even if you’ve been around Pahurat you may not realize that it has a mezzanine with a number of small shops and stalls. Take the escalator (a big plus) in the alley across from Central Wangburapa, and you’ll reach one of Pahurat’s best-kept secrets. Here you can find Indian gold and silver jewelry, accessories and interesting fabrics and accessories like fur and feathers, as well as pashminas—the same quality you’d get elsewhere in Bangkok for a third of the price. Watch out for roaming cats, they are everywhere!

This is also a great place to find some good food. Indian specialties such as maak waan (Aun Maak Waan, a street vendor near Sunny Video) are a must-try. If you want something sweet, try sweetened grilled cassava (B30) or grilled bananas (B10), or head to Kanom Taan Pahurat (B20, 05-145-9838. Open Tue-Sun 9am-5pm).

Most vendors in Pahurat Market shut down at 5pm or so, so it’s best to arrive earlier in the day. One of the best days is Monday, when there are no street vendors on the sidewalks.