Vodka today is bar none the chicest white spirit on the top shelf, and in a class all its own. Its place as the premium inebriant for the style elite is unchallenged, taking over a throne traditionally occupied by gin, and the liquor’s superbly designed bottles and glossy marketing campaigns have every other spirit struggling to emulate. Even here in Thailand, where whisky still reigns supreme as the most popular hard alcohol, vodka growth has been substantial, expanding by over 30% since 2003. But not all vodkas are equal. There are the standard (or “well”), premium and now even “super-premium” vodkas sold at super-premium prices. Do you get what you pay for—or is it just marketing hype?

Fluid Origins

The exact place of origin of this noble spirit is a bit speculative as both Poland and Russia claim it as their own. Legend has it that in 8th century Poland, a peasant mistakenly left his wine outside all winter, which eventually turned into a crude version of vodka. It was initially only used for medicinal purposes, not being distilled for public consumption in Poland until the late-1500s.

Conversely, the Russians came up with their version of the spirit and started distilling it for consumption much earlier—the 12th century. By the 1500s, the Russians began infusing honey into the cold, heady mix to improve the spirit’s aroma and flavor, and used charcoal as a filter to rid the mix of undesirable by-products.

Regardless of where it came from exactly, vodka is unique among alcoholic beverages. Unlike beer, wine, whisky or tequila, which are judged by their distinctive taste or adherence to a set of flavor codes, vodka is evaluated by exactly the opposite—its lack of taste, its purity and its inoffensive, ghostly presence in a cocktail. This in turn poses a dilemma for distinguishing one brand of vodka from another—especially since it is a drink rarely sipped neat and most often consumed with mixers.

A Pretty Penny for Super-Premium

How do the super-premiums achieve this level of purity that sets them apart from the mass-produced vodkas? Put simply, multiple distillations.

Any amount of taste that vodka has comes from two things—the primary ingredients used in the distillation, and the water used. While some spirits can only be made with specific ingredients, vodka can actually be made from a wide variety of fermentable substances, including vegetables, grains and fruits. While the mass-produced vodkas will use cheaper ingredients and water and run the distillery just once, the super-premiums spend a bit more time running it over and over, increasing the purity of the final product, as well as the cost per bottle.

“Basically it’s all about taste,” says Geoff Ross, CEO of New Zealand-based 42 Below. “The super-premiums tend to be a little smoother and should have a bit more character…a nice one will have a good texture, a bit of weight to it, not like water, but heavier like a good aged wine.” The key to producing these is to run the distillery very slowly, repeating the process multiple times to pull out all the unpleasant flavors. “If you run the distillery fast, obviously it’s cheaper,” Geoff says, “but in doing that unfortunately it allows some of those unpleasant aspects of distillation to sneak through.”

Interestingly, a number of the most prominent super-premium vodkas do not emerge from the traditional birthplaces of the white spirit, Poland and Russia. One of the clear leaders of the group, Belvedere, does come from Poland, but Ciroc Snap Frost and Grey Goose emerge from France, Ketel One from Holland (now unavailable in Thailand) and 42 Below from New Zealand. These relatively new birthplaces for the spirit have earned them a nickname—the “New World vodkas.”

The differences between vodkas can be very subtle, but they are noticeable, as we learned from our taste test of several leading super-premiums (see below).

“This is just the beginning we are seeing now for vodka,” says Jonny Palsson, vodka connoisseur and Global Mixologist for Absolut. “Believe me, in 10 years…maybe we’ll be making super duper premium quality. Whatever is the demand from the consumer.”

Taste Test

42 Below - New Zealand
(B1,200/750ml)
Gaining its name from the fact that it is distilled 42 degrees below the equator, this New Zealand vodka is straightforward, pure and smooth. Perfect for those who like it neat.

Belvedere - Poland
(B1,420/750 ml)
Exceptionally pure taste with overtones of vanilla, this vodka sets itself apart with a buttery finish. Good for a Tom Collins.

Ciroc Snap Frost - France
(B1,590/ 750 ml)
Distilled entirely from grapes, this vodka has a fresh aroma with notes of citrus. Mixes with tonic, lime and ice to perfection.

Grey Goose - France
(B1,550/750 ml)
Carries a bit of a punch with a more alcoholic taste than some of the others. Exceptionally clean finish. Martini material.

Level - Sweden
(Official launch in 2007 but available in exclusive locations now)
The super-premium from the Absolut family carries with it a wave of heady aromas and a just a hint of grapefruit aftertaste. Perfectly smooth. Nice mixed with a splash of soda, lemon and lime.

Skyy - USA
(B480/700 ml)
The American spirit in the bright blue bottle has a distinctive taste with unusual flavors of citrus and mint. Try it in a dirty martini.