Hot Hoods Smackdown: Thonburi versus Phra Khanong
Some of the most exciting openings of late have been in two unlikely neighborhoods, Thonburi and Pra Khanong.
10 years ago
PHRA KHANONG
GOJA GALLERY AND REBEL ART SPACE
Goja Gallery
Rebel Art Space
Sat right beside bustling Thonglor and Ekkamai, gritty Phra Khanong has previously been overlooked as a residential and office area—but that’s all starting to change. Recent arrivals Rebel Art Space and Goja Gallery have brought an art scene to the area by showcasing works from the likes of Japanese artist Tadaomi Shibuya and locals Alex Face and Mongkol Utog and poet Mongkol Plienbangchang. Set in a renovated old shophouse, Goja also serves up drip coffee and drinks in a soothing white space. Keeping things fresh, Rebel Art space co-founder Bee Jeerati and Goja founder Kotaro Okamoto (see Q&A this page) have also made mention of a new street art project and another new gallery scheduled to open around June.
• GOJA Cafe and Gallery, Sukhumvit 71, 5/2 Soi Pridi Banomyong 3. Open Tue-Sun noon-midnight. BTS Phra Khanong.
• Rebel Art Space, 10/5 Sukhumvit Soi 67 (Soi Srijun), 087-112-7774. BTS Phra Khanong. Open by appointment.
BROWNSTONE
Brownstone
Photo: Atit Siriprarob
After four years as a rehearsal studio, Brownstone is gearing up for a change. A couple of weeks ago, the studio opened its white space for wall art as part of Change & Charge exhibition hosted by new collective Rhubarb, and celebrated with a half-day minifestival featuring local indie luminaries like The Sticky Rice and Plastic Section. The owner tells us it will keep operating as a studio, but their passion for both music and art will see the two blended in a series of exhibitions and gigs over the coming months.
• 1395 Sukhumvit 77. 085-483-7675. Open on appointment. BTS On Nut. www.facebook.com/brownstonestudio
KINJO OKINAWA RESTAURANT
Opened back in 2006, the izakaya-style Okinawa Kinjo is the only place in Bangkok that serves up traditional dishes from Okinawa district, Japan (think tofu and seaweed among other Japanese staples). And while you wouldn’t guess it from the charming clutter of the tiny dining room, the restaurant is also the place to catch the odd gig. The recently renovated second floor, now dubbed the Livecube, just hosted an intimate show from rising allfemale pop-rock group Pretty Please and will welcome Japanese soloist Kalei Gamiao on June 19. Do note, the space only fits some 30 people.
• 24/1 Sukhumvit Soi 69. 02-711-0536. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm and 5pm-midnight. www.facebook.com/kinjo.okinawa BTS Phra Khanong.
63 BANGKOK BED & BREAKFAST
Located on Sukhumvit Road not too far from BTS Ekkamai, 63 Bangkok Bed & Breakfast is a 42-room boutique hotel which also doubles as a co-working space for both hotel guests and walk-ins. Room prices start from B2,000 per night for the S Room (B999/night through May 31) while the day-pass co-working space is now B220 including free Wi-Fi, power socket and coffee/tea corner.
• 1323/2 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-392-5961/3. Open 24 hours daily. BTS Ekkamai.
ZEPPELIN
Located on the top two floors of Le Luk condominium, right next to BTS Phra Khanong, this new rooftop bar and restaurant offers a pleasant spot to enjoy panoramic views of the up-and-coming neighborhood. While the 45th floor is decked out like a proper restaurant where you can enjoy Thai-international dishes, the top deck one floor up is more laidback with lots of sofa sets from which to enjoy the night views. There's more of a party vibe come the weekend with DJs and live bands, plus special events from time to time like Duck & Noodle’s Top Deck party in March.
• 45-46/F Le Luk Condominium, 1595/500 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-348-9121. Open daily 6pm-1am. BTS Phra Khanong.
Q&A:
WHAT’S THE BEST THING ABOUT YOUR NEIGHBORHOOD?
“Phra Khanong has a lot of delicious street food that you can find 24 hours a day. It’s not too far from central Bangkok, only the traffic isn’t always good. There are still not that many restaurants, bars and community malls, so people tend to drive right past to go somewhere else. It’d be great to have a few more cool places.
— Chalisa Nakkhummuprasat, 23, research executive
“This part of town is really becoming an art district. Around our gallery, there will be W-Market, an outside fashion mall with a gallery. Also, there will be an Art Hotel next to us called Beat Hotel, which is said to open in about a month’s time. The W-District mall is being built right on Sukhumvit, and I believe there will be a gallery on the third or fourth floor. And lastly, though this is also not 100 percent confirmed, there will be an art and cultural center on Sukhumvit Road and Sukhumvit 71.”
—Kotaro Okamoto, Goja Gallery Founder
THONBURI
THE JAM FACTORY
The Never Ending Summer
Candide Bookstore
While there are already lots of restaurants by the river on the Rattanakosin side of Bangkok, the new(ish) BTS stations mean there's now more going on over in Thonburi, too. Here, “starchitect” Duangrit Bunnag has turned a sizable abandoned space next to Klongsan Market into The Jam Factory, home to the popular restaurant The Never Ending Summer and Candide Bookstore, separated by an exhibition space in the middle. Named after Voltaire’s classic, Candide is the brainchild of writer, editor, and publisher Duangruethai Esanasatang and offers selected books from mostly Thai authors. It’s flanked by a square garden that’s occasionally used to hold events, like the Absolut Artelier in April. The exhibition space is currently displaying furniture from Alltag design while Thai restaurant The Never Ending Summer offers traditional Thai dishes to go with the Instagram-friendly warehouse-like space.
• Charoen Nakhon Road next to Khlong San Market, 02-861-0967.
THE CIRCLE
White Day Patisserie
Tiew Hur
This community mall down on Ratchapruek Road is pretty huge and keeps welcoming new restaurants and cafés. Started off as a Facebook page, White Day Patisserie is a Japanese-inspired bakery that rolls out treats like the Three Degrees of Chocolate (B195), which comes as warm chocolate lava cake, vanilla ice cream and chocolate mousse served in a tube, bread pudding (B165) and Kokoro Mousse (raspberry mousse with jelly, meringue and mixed berries). Tiew Hur, meanwhile, has moved to The Circle from its original branch on Ari Soi 4, keeping their signature menu as well as adding a shabu option. Try new dishes like kuay tiew rua hang sue rong hai (blood noodle with thinly sliced brisket, B85) and kuay tiew rua lin krub (blood noodle with marinated tongue, B110).
• 39 Ratchaphruek Rd. 092-458-6571. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Wongwianyai.
BUDDY BOYS’ STATION
Buddy Boys’ Station
Inspired by New York’s west-side diners of the 1950s, Buddy Boys’ Diner's retro interior and neon-lit facade are wonderfully detailed. Owned by an Americana-obsessed musician, the place is decked out with the obligatory jukebox, checkered floors, red booths, a long blue bar and old posters. The concise menu mainly sticks to burgers, steak and shakes whose American-size portions and quality justify the prices. Try the onion cheesy burger (B290), which comes with US beef patties and BBQ onion sauce, and is served with onion rings, or the Buffalo wings (B130), with a side sauce that blends celery and blue cheese.
• 32/13 Rathchapruek Rd. 089-926-4220. Open daily 1-10pm and 3pm-midnight (Bar). BTS Bangwa.
CONTAINER MARKET
Right across from The Circle, The Bloc is another new community mall. The real draw of this place is the monthly Container Market, which should appeal to fans of the Made by Legacy flea markets or the Jam Garage Sale. The stylish night market sells everything from clothes, crockery and food to garden supplies. Too bad it’s closed for rainy season—keep an eye out for its return next winter.
• The Bloc, 94 Ratchaphruek Rd., 085-370-6367. Open 5-11pm. BTS Bangwa.
HESTIA
Hestia Showroom
After closing its showroom at Rama 9 a year ago, Thai luxury home décor brand Hestia has just relocated across the river. The sizable space is now fully open boasting lots of new furniture under their current theme of “luxury vintage.”Head here for sofas in simple brown leather or beige suede, bronze lanterns and various ceramic décor items.
• 778 Chalernakorn Rd. (Ratburana). 02-877-6584. Open Tue-Sun 9am-7pm.
Q&A:
WHAT’S THE BEST THING ABOUT YOUR NEIGHBORHOOD?
“Ratchapruek is like this new neighborhood. The past couple of years have seen a lot of developments and with the BTS coming and more people moving in, it looks like there’s a lot more to come in this area.”
— Akkharet Choksuphachinda, 27, business owner
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