Time to Wine
If our cover story last week has gotten you wine-crazed, head down to Le Bistrot du Sommelier as they feature 10 crus du Beaujolais from May 15-Jun 15. Carnivores will be pleased to know that from May 15-Jul 9, mezza9’s executive sous chef Simon Ruf will be featuring a menu centered on Argentine grass-fed Hereford beef. It’s hard to find Middle Eastern cuisine in Singapore; so that’s where Anar comes in.
Have you noticed any trends in the luxury bar scene?
History’s starting to repeat itself. I really think the simplicity of the cocktail is coming back and people are looking for more of an experience. The ultimate ritual is absinthe. There’s a real influx of locally produced products, whether it’s fruits, spices or herbs. They’re all really starting to come into play. Like during the World Class challenge, we saw everything from Balinese saffron to local curry leaves.
You’re here as a guest judge for a World Class challenge—what are your judging criteria?
To be honest, these challenges aren’t all about the cocktail. It’s more like 25 percent about the cocktail itself; the rest is a combination of creativity, knowledge of the alcohol, personality and style, of course. I’ve had Asian bartenders say they don’t think they can hack it against other bartenders from the UK, Australia and America, but that’s such a load of crap. It wouldn’t surprise me at all if this or next year, the winner’s from Asia.
Ketel One versus Ron Zacapa in a smack down, which is the one for you?
You’re really putting me on the spot. Ketel One is great for a hot, summer’s day, while Ron Zacapa’s nice at night.
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Ayam Buah Keluak | Baba Inn at Frankel Avenue
Don't let the casual air here deceive you—the Peranakan cuisine served is prepared with care and pride. They also whip up a sambal belachan that will make a Peranakan grandmother proud.
Around for 15 years, the Blue Ginger is undisputedly one of Singapore's best Peranakan restaurants.
Chef Malcom Lee fuses innovation with the deep, robust and complex flavors of Peranakan cuisine to create dishes like buah keluak beef rib, assam sotong and buah keluak ice cream.
This charming spot serves up great Peranakan food like ayam buah keluak, nyonya chap chye and the house specialty, grilled baby stingray with black peppercorns and curry leaves.
Book a table at Flavours At Zhongshan Park with Chope
The themed weekend buffets here are a fun touch, with Peranakan favorites available on Fridays - where there's stuff like babi pongteh and gulai ayam - a combination of Peranakan classics and seafood on Saturdays and a high-tea buffet on Sundays, with dim sum and more Peranakan snacks to choose from.
Eurasian-Peranakan food at Immigrants restaurant in Joo Chiat
This laid-back gastropub in Joo Chiat serves up mean Peranakan and Eurasian bites alongside a respectable list of whiskeys and craft beers.
If you are new to Peranakan food, check out our Peranakan cheat sheet—a list of just the classics, and where to get them.
Housed in a black-and-white building with luxe interiors, Indocafe offers Nyonya cuisine infused with a contemporary touch, and have their spices freshly ground using the traditional pestle and mortar.
Curry Fish Head | Peranakan Inn restaurant in Katong
Pleasant and nostalgic with some modern touches, the name really says it all. The food is pretty outstanding, too with classic dishes like babi pongteh, ayam buah keluak and nyonya chap chye. We say go straight for the babi pongteh, it's not too oily and are braised to perfection with a side of mushrooms for added aroma.
Done up like an old Peranakan home, Peranakan Inn is a great spot to bring out of towners.
Damn good food... in a biotech park.... Try the ikan tamban or babi pongteh.
Buah Keluak | Violet Oon's Kitchen at Bukit Timah
Book a table at Violet Oon's Kitchen with Chope
This local bistro serves up excellent Peranakan grub served in generous portions like ayam buah keluak ($22), beef rendang ($22) and fish tempra ($24).
Whole Earth makes vegetarian Peranakan—giving you one less excuse to not give up meat.
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A Spoonful of Sugar
If you’re looking to score a little sumthin’ sumthin’, head down to Aroma. They offer a range of delectable cakes including bebe poire caramel crumble, smooth caramel mousse with caramelized baby pears topped with crumble, macaron framboise et litchi and durian gateau, a durian mousse cake crowned with durian puffs.
Up until fairly recently, the only wines labeled “organic” were bad wines. This is not to say that there weren’t excellent organic wines out there—but they weren’t labeled as such, because to the average consumer, “organic” meant hippie health food that you consumed for the sake of ideology, not taste. So even if you were a winemaker who did follow organic practices, you would only hurt your sales by advertising this fact.
But with increased concern about health and the environment, organic foods have moved into the mainstream with more and more consumers asking questions about organic wines.
Alain Chabanon, who makes organic wines in the Languedoc region of southern France says, “Organic wines were considered inferior, a ‘green’ fad, an anti-establishment statement. But now there is a clear trend in the demand for cleaner, purer products, and so the marketing of wine has gone in that direction.”
“I don’t appreciate unnatural processes and I am always surprised when I meet people who don’t want to drink organic wines. It’s been a bit abused and you have to be cautious and check that it’s fully organic; but to not want to drink organic wines at all is bullshit,” says Maximilen Fedkiw, sommelier and co-owner of Le Bistrot du Sommelier.
What exactly is organic?
Before man started messing around with chemicals, all wine was organic. So really this “new” trend is a return to old methods. But there still isn’t an agreement on what makes wine “organic” today. In some countries the government decides; in other countries a private certification organization sets the rules.
In general terms, an “organic” wine is made without any chemical fertilizers or pesticides—that applies to the grapes growing in the vineyards as well as to the winemaking in the winery.
The percentage of organic grapes required for a wine to be considered organic can vary from 100 percent to as little as 70 percent, depending on the regulatory body. In some countries, wines with sulfites added cannot be classified organic; in others this is considered alright. In certain countries, the organic standard must also apply to sterilization of the equipment, bottles and corks used; others aren’t so strict. And not every wine that is labeled organic has been independently certified.
What do you gain?
There are three main reasons why you might want to go organic. The first: Concern for the environment. “The decision to make organic wine is part of my life philosophy. I try to do my part by not adding pollution to an already polluted planet Earth,” says Mr. Chabanon.
The second: Your health. The lack of manmade substances can only be a good thing.
The third: Simply because they are better—or they can be, in the hands of a skilled winemaker. According to Mr. Chabanon, organic grapes make better wine. “The taste is better due to the reduced yield,” he insists.
What do you give up?
As with organic food, an organic wine will nearly always be more expensive than a comparable non-organic wine. Without the use of herbicides and chemical fertilizers, winemakers need to spend more time taking care of the plants.
Another disadvantage for consumers is that you have fewer choices. Most of the wines on the market are non-organic. Those that are organic are not easy to find. Making it even more confusing, some winemakers sell both organic and non-organic wines.
At the end of the day, you’ll have to decide whether it’s worth the extra effort. We say let your palate and conscience guide you.
Some facts about winemaking at Domaine Alain Chabanon
· No fertilizer or pesticides are used in the vineyards
· They prune the plants a lot to keep yields low
· The grapes are picked by hand and only in the morning
· After picking, the grapes are immediately taken to the winery in shallow (so they don’t get squashed), open-weave (so they can breathe) baskets
· The grapes are sorted by hand
· The grapes are not pumped into the tanks—gravity does the trick (the tanks are in the basement and are filled from above)
· The grapes get a foot-massage (really)—pigeage in French
· The wine is not filtered
· The wine is not fined (adding something to make the wine more clear)—collage in French
· They do not add yeast
Try wines from Domaine Alain Chabanon, Languedoc, France (www.domainechabanon.com) at Le Bistrot du Sommelier (#01-01 Prinsep Place, 46 Prinsep St., 6333-1982) or through Prodis Wine ([email protected], 9729-6410).
Sommelier Recommendations
Where to Buy
Tasting for Dummies
Organic Wines: Old Methods in New Bottles
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Artisan Cellars
#B1-01 Palais Renaissance, 390 Orchard Rd., 6838-0373. Mon-Sat 11:30am-8pm
Best for: Those who are seriously into the bubbly. They’ve got a list of about 100 different varieties on offer, with an emphasis on boutique grower champers. Their focus on Old World French classics from Burgundy, especially reds, is also impressive.
Number of labels carried: About 200
Price range: $50-10,000
Quick picks: Schloss Lieser, Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese 2009 ($60), Dosnon & Lepage Cuvee Alliae NV ($145), Jacques Selosse Brut Initial Grand Cru NV ($213)
Culina
#01-13 Blk. 8 Dempsey Hill, Dempsey Rd., 6474-7338. Mon- Thu 10am–9pm, Fri-Sun 9am–9pm
Best for: If you’re a novice wine drinker, the range of offerings from well established wineries from Australia, Spain, Italy and USA, many of which are familyowned, aren’t the least bit intimidating.
Number of labels carried: About 300
Price range: $23-3,100
Quick picks: Mount Nelson Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($38), Torbreck Bothie 2010 ($42), Torres Mas La Plana 2005 ($89)
Booze Wine Shop
111 Jalan Besar, 6294-7500. Mon-Fri 10am–7pm
Best for: The countries that their wine selection is from reads like a World Cup line-up. Aside from Old World favorites from France and Italy, they also have Spain, Portugal, Germany and Chile covered.
Number of labels carried: 1,624, to be exact
Price range: $23-3,100
Quick picks: Château de Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape 2005 ($170), William Fevre Chablis 'Vaudesir' 2008 ($140)
Crystal Wines
#01-02/03 Valley Point, 491 River Valley Rd., 6737-3540. Mon– Sat 11am-8pm
Best for: If you don't have a strong allegiance to Old or New World wines, the range of primarily French, Italian and Australian offerings here will suit you nicely. Those with a sweet tooth will appreciate their list of Sauternes.
Number of labels carried: Roughly 600
Price range: $23-3,500
Quick picks: Pecavvi No Regrets Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2009 ($45), Rieussec 2007 ($84), Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé ($135)
Vinum Fine Wines
#03-20/21, Shaw Centre, 1 Scotts Rd., 6735-3700. Mon-Sat 10:30am–7:30pm
Best for: Francophiles who positively love classics from Bordeaux, Burgundy and Rhône. Their cellar is heavily French-based (almost 90 percent).
Number of labels carried: 2,000 (give or take a little).
Price range: $31-28,800 (yes, you saw that right)
Quick picks: 2000 Oremus, Aszú 6 Puttonyos Tokaji ($108), Rossignol Trapet, Chapelle Chambertin Grand Cru 2008 ($125), Bruno Paillard, Blanc de Blancs 1996 ($158)
The Oaks Cellars
#B2-03/04 Great World City, 6835-3511. Daily 10am–9pm
Best for: Those who want the best of both worlds. The wine list here is balanced between popular Old World wines from France and New World champion, Australia. You'll also see bottles from New Zealand and USA.
Number of labels carried: More than 1,000
Price range: $29-15,000
Quick picks: Gipsie Jack Sauvignon Blanc 2010 ($52), Salomon Estate Finniss River Cabernet Merlot 2005 ($65)
Sommelier Recommendations
Where to Buy
Tasting for Dummies
Organic Wines: Old Methods in New Bottles
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Even without a tasting class, there’s a lot you can learn by just following the four S’s of tasting: See, Swirl, Smell and Sip. Try to sample more than one wine at a time. Tasting by comparison can be quite telling.
See
Wine experts say you need good daylight and a white surface to assess wine. (The perfect excuse to drink in the day!) Tip your glass about 45 degrees, and examine the color. What to look for: Clarity—is it clear or cloudy? A cloudy wine could be faulty, or in some cases, merely indicative of an organic wine. Intensity—is the color pale or dark? For example, a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is usually much paler than a French Chardonnay. Color—is your white wine straw-like in color? Gold? Tints of green can indicate a young wine. Unlike white wine, red wine gets paler with age, starting out dark purple and moving from ruby through to tawny.
Swirl
Swirling brings the wine into contact with air, releasing its aromatic compounds. It’s a good idea to do this immediately before you sniff. Only fill the wine glass a third of the way or be wary of spills. What to look for: See how the wine drips down the inside of the glass in rivulets? These are called the legs or the tears. Are they thin or fat? Do they fall slowly or quickly? These signs indicate the sugar and/or alcohol levels in the wine. The fatter and slower the legs, the higher the levels and the fuller the body of the wine once it’s in your mouth.
Smell
What to look for: Don’t be disheartened if the experts say “butterscotch” and “freshlycut grass” and all you come up with is “yummy.” It gets easier with practice. If you’re having a hard time pinpointing what you’re smelling, start with categories. Does it smell flowery? Fruity? Spicy? Which flowers, which fruits, which spices?
Sip
And finally, the best bit. You drink. A good wine should confirm on the tongue what you have already smelled. Suck in a bit of air with your mouth half-full of wine, which will whoosh the aromatic compounds to the nasal passage in the back of your mouth. Swoosh the wine around so it touches all parts of your tongue. It may seem counterintuitive to spit out the wine instead of swallowing it, but trust us, you’ll need your wits about you, especially if you’re at a tasting. What to look for: Acidity—a good wine needs some to make it taste fresh and balance the fruitiness. Sweetness—is it sweet or is it dry? Use the tip of your tongue for this. Tannins— an astringent quality, like you’ve just drunk super strong tea, in moderate amounts are essential for balance in red wines. Finish—how long does the taste stay in your mouth? A good wine will last (as should a good lover).
Sommelier Recommendations
Where to Buy
Tasting for Dummies
Organic Wines: Old Methods in New Bottles
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No matter what the occasion, whether you’re a full-fledged, out and proud oenophile or a newbie to the grape juicedrinking game, there’s a wine for you. We rounded up a panel of trusted sommeliers for their recommendations in real-life situations, give you the lowdown on local wine retailers, and delve into the world of organic wines.
Darius Allyn
Master Sommelier
Matthew Baker
Chef and sommelier
Dario Buonavoglia
Chief sommelier, Ku Dé Ta
Maximilen Fedkiw
Co-owner and sommelier, Le Bistrot du Sommelier
Daisuke Kawai
Sommelier, Les Amis
You’ve just been given that promotion you’ve been working your ass off for, or finally gotten rid of that dead-beat husband of yours. It’s time to celebrate.
MB Nothing says celebration like Champagne. Billecart-Salmon Rosé NV is my favorite non-vintage Rosé as it’s nice and crisp, without too much bite and subtle notes that come through. Alternatively, a bottle of 96 Dom Pérignon should do the trick. Not because all the rappers drink it, but because it’s a big, symbolic Champagne. And well, that’s just how I roll.
DB Try a good Pinot Noir from Burgundy. Sit with a very good friend or your partner and enjoy very, very slowly.
DK If it’s a big promotion, a big name like Jacques Selosse Substance Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut NV is a good choice. It’s rich on the palate, with a fresh, soft flavor and with almonds, peaches and apricots on the nose. I imagine if love had a flavor, this would be it. It’s like real love in your mouth. If it’s a small promotion, reach for Vouette et Sorbeé Blanc Fidéle Extra Brut NV. Like the Jacques, it’s also very soft with earthy flavors of mushrooms, yet is very refreshing with a pleasing natural sweetness. The style is similar, but of course, the price is much lower.
It’s a lazy Sunday afternoon and you’re hanging out with some mates who don't know anything about wine.
MB Californian Cabernet Sauvignons are good middle-of-the-road wines that please most. Stags’ Leap’s is a fruit-forward wine that’ll serve as a good introduction to wine. It’s not overly oaky, with big ripe fruit that comes through on the palate.
DB If someone’s a cocktail-drinker, a good approach is to try Sauvignon Blanc from NZ, think fresh and crisp with lovely aromas such as tropical fruits. If they’re beer drinkers, just go for the cheapest wine available. It’s going to take them a while to warm up to wine.
MF You can play it safe with Domaine Louis Moreau Chablis or crisp Sauvignon Blanc from Central Otago. A 2010 Mt Difficulty would work well.
You’ve been invited to a poolside barbie by an acquaintance and don’t want to rock up emptyhanded.
DA Think ripe and balanced flavors, so go with American Zinfandels (Seghesio or Outpost), Australian Shiraz (Mount Langi or Rockford) or Grenache (Clarendon Hills or Torbreck). All are all safe bets with BBQ flavors, whether it’s chicken or red meats.
DB A very nice sparkling Shiraz from Australia should do, such as Charles Melton from Barossa. Enjoy this plummy and peppery wine slightly chilled. It goes well with barbeque sauce and smoky flavors.
MF If you think you have a crowd that’s receptive and you want to treat them, create an impression with taste. There are some smooth, full-bodied Rhône Valley wines that are both decently priced and approachable. For reds, try a Rhône Valley Syrah or Grenache. They’re usually not too tannic, with a beautiful fruit flavor and quite flexible with a lot of different food. It can even take spicy food.
DK Try a light Bordeaux such as Château Pibran from Pauillac. For great value, there are some nice reds from Spain such as Palacios Remondo Propiedad Rioja Tinto. Not only is it reasonable, it’s very good value for the price. It’s quite a fullbodied wine that still has silky tannins with some cassis and blackberry notes.
It’s the all-important third date, and you’re looking to impress the pants off them.
DA Probably hard to argue against a great small producer Champagne—at least to start. Egly-Ouriet, Pierre Peters, and Jacques Selosse are a few terrific examples. Get a better idea of what your date likes and what would be the best choice according to their and your taste. That way you can get something that you could both enjoy—that’s the key to a great date, right?
MB Definitely a Californian Zinfandel such as Ridge’s. Expect an easy-to-drink wine that’s packed full of jammy fruit flavors and decent acidity. More importantly, it’s got one of the highest alcohol percentages, usually 16-17 percent. (Nudge-nudge, wink-wink, say no more.)
DB I’d suggest Jacques Selosse Version Originale NV. This is a good Chardonnay with bubbles, like a white Burgundy, that’s opulent and full-bodied. It’s got maximum ripeness and yet has preserved great acidity, with minerality. At the same time, it’s also respectful of nature and fully biodynamic. You should drink it out of a Burgundy glass to fully enjoy all it has to offer.
MF I drink Delamotte Brut NV with a lot of pleasure and it’s good for almost any occasion. This one will give you good sensations.
You’re hosting a cheese and wine do for a few close friends.
DA Depends on the friend. If they are “wine geeks”, then usually something more unusual like Portuguese, Greek, or Uruguay wines. If not, then I would bring something from the same country and specific region as the cheese served, and with a little age.
DB Mature cheeses like Pecorino and Parmigiano-Reggiano do well with Grenache, which has tannin to balance the flavor of the cheese. A classic with blue cheeses is a sweet-style wine. Try a Pinot Gris from Alsace which has a bit of structure and enough residual sugar to be a good match.
DK Camembert and brie go best with white wine, such as a New World Chardonnay. Strong blue cheeses such as gorgonzola pair well with sweet wines like Sauternes and Tokaji. Something like manchego, depending on how aged it is (which dictates how intense the flavor is), needs a medium- to full-bodied red wine. It being Spanish is entirely optional.
Sommelier Recommendations
Where to Buy
Tasting for Dummies
Organic Wines: Old Methods in New Bottles
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Chocolate Overload
Shangri-La Hotel, Singapore (22 Orange Grove Rd., 6737-3644) is celebrating its big 4-0. Besides chocolate sculptures inspired by the novel Lost Horizon, there will be an afternoon tea chocolate buffet featuring 40 different chocolicious desserts through May 1 ($38).
New in the Hood
Following the launch of Cold Stone Creamery, Orchard Central is really starting to liven up. Indulge your sweet tooth, without the guilt, at dessert spot cacao7 with their range of organic chocolates and low-carb cheesecake.
Zillions of bunny- and egg-shaped products can only mean one thing: Easter’s back. While the appeal of crawling around our backyard in search of Easter eggs has long since passed, there’s still something about the humble egg. We pay homage to this understated ingredient and list our favorite egg dishes of the moment.
Beef Tartare at Table 66 ($18)
We’d say that the highlight of chef Vincent Teng’s version of beef tartare is the firm but still creamy semi-solid egg yolk that’s been marinated in miso and truffle, then sousvide. A light wasabi mayonnaise dressing on the side adds a nice finishing touch.
66 Tras St., 6225-6690.
Black Palm Island Salt Macaron at Jewels Artisan Chocolate ($2)
We truly adore macarons (one “O,” not two) and these gems by chocolatier Then Chui Foong are exemplary. Nestled between two perfectly light yet chewy egg white meringue shells is an almond cream filling and salted egg yolk, which, together with the sprinkle of black palm island salt on top, brings a balanced harmony of sweet and savory.
#02-31/32 Orchard Central, 181 Orchard Rd., 6509-8998.
Fried Egg White at Restaurant Ten ($5)
There’s much to be said for simplicity and skilful execution, and this is a great example. Fried egg white lounges in a crunchy potato nest, topped with crisp dried scallop strands, while just a touch of apple cider vinegar provides the subtlest hint of fruity sweetness. 7 Purvis St., 6333-9901.
‘Glass’ Sydney Crab Omelet at Salt Grill ($29)
Strips of fresh crab meat are concealed in a fluffy omelet, which sits comfortably in a sea of white miso and mustard broth. Mint, basil, chili, enoki mushrooms and sesame seeds provide a symphony of textures and round out the flavors of the dish.
55/F ION Orchard, 2 Orchard Turn, 6592-5118.
Humpty Dumpty & Vegemite Soldiers at The Plain ($5)
We all know the classic Singaporean breakfast: Kaya toast and softboiled eggs. Well, consider this the Aussie version. There is a certain satisfaction to be had from dunking Vegemite-smeared sticks of toast into deliciously runny yolks. Mmm...
50 Craig Rd., 6225-4387.
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