What have you been up to?
After I left Tung Lok Group in July last year, I wanted to take things slow. I then opened the cooking school in November with my wife, Forest. At the beginning, we wanted to keep things quite quiet. We later decided to give a 50 percent discount on our classes, just to raise awareness, and we were attacked with customers.

How did you get involved in the inaugural 2011 Asian Masters?
One of my friends who’s involved with the F&B side of things approached me about it and I thought it would be a great way to support a local event with other Asian chefs. It’s been a little stressful, because when you do a 10am cooking class (as opposed to a 1:30pm one) you have to wake up early, buy stuff, prep and all that. But it gives us experience. Plus it reminds us that it’s not a good idea to do early morning classes, particularly on Saturdays.

Tell us about what it’s like working with your wife.
Working together has been quite natural and comfortable. We really understand each other well and it helps that we speak the same culinary language. I’m pretty lucky that Forest understands me and is so understanding. She entertains when I teach, and jumps in when I don’t do such a good job of explaining things.

Which role do you prefer playing, chef or teacher?
I switch back and forth from chef to teacher, so my point of view is flexible. The sense of satisfaction is so different. What’s important is a real personal touch and to build chemistry with the people you meet. To win a customer takes so many things, but to lose a customer takes only a second. When I do chef’s tables, all I need is context and a budget. Whether it’s a family event, a group of friends, I only ask one question, what don’t you eat? It’s the joy of doing it freely, and they let me decide. If they come back and tell me a long list of demands, I’ll just introduce them to the Ritz-Carlton. On the other hand, I really want to give back to my students, for them to have fun so they leave happy. When we do our classes, we offer generous tasting portions. I also want to surprise them with our hospitality. And it seems to work, because they keep returning.

To heat things up in the kitchen, try your hand at one of their cooking classes. From April, you’ll also be able to enjoy Sam Leong’s Chef’s Table. sam.leong@forest Cooking School is located at 4A Craig Rd., 6222-3305. Log on to their website www.samatforest.com for details.

You’ve been away from Singapore for some time, how does it feel to be back?
I’m really excited, and this is a big project. Opening a restaurant is very exciting, but there are also a lot of challenges. I’ve been working day and night up to 16 hours a day. I lost 3kg because I’ve been so busy setting things up. I want to give people a real dining experience, whether they’re from China or Europe. This isn’t a new concept but I don’t think that there is anyone else who does it at this level. After all, you can buy the product at a hawker but you certainly can’t buy the atmosphere and the view.

What inspires you to craft the dishes that you do?
In my world, there’s only good food or bad food. When I eat, I get inspired. My repertoire of dishes is derived from when I travel around Asia to places like Hong Kong, Taipei and Shanghai. I try my best to promote Southeast Asian flavors, as well as highlight products that are sourced from around the region in places like Malaysia and Indonesia. I really like this Taiwanese soy sauce that I use a lot of, as well as Indonesian gula java, which I use to make my signature macarons. I also prefer subtle spices like anise, cardamom, and citrus for acidity. Because of my training in a classic French kitchen, my palate’s been tuned to look for balance and delicate seasoning.

How do you feel about our local chefs?
Some are very good, but they need recognition. They also need to travel more and try new food and not just hawker food. Copying food is not the same as being able to create a dish. As a chef, it’s only when you understand food, that you can create it. I’ve been in this line for so long, I can tell what’s missing immediately. It’s all about experience. The ability to put together different components such as shark’s head with caviar and combine flavors that work, is unique.

If variety is the spice of life, let’s just say that we like it really, really spicy. Last year was a great one for new restaurants, and we can only hope the months ahead will be similarly fruitful. In the meantime, a look back at some of the best establishments to open here in the last 12 months. 

Angelo’s
111-113 Killiney Rd., 6732-5113.
There’s no doubt that Chef Angelo Sanelli (formerly of Michelangelo’s) knows how to serve impressive Italian classics. The house-proud pastas and tiramisu are heavenly. And his namesake eatery, with its dim lighting and dark corners, is the perfect place for a first date. Even if you don’t manage to score, you’ll leave with your belly completely satisfied.

Arbite
66A Serangoon Garden Way, 6287-0430.
We know it’s hardly downtown, but that’s part of its charm. This cozy nook is all the way out in Serangoon (a mere one-minute walk from Chomp Chomp); just trek up to the second floor for some fresh handmade pasta. Chef and proprietor Marc Wee makes a batch from scratch everyday, so be sure to have a plate of pappardelle with shrooms, parma ham, onions, garlic and shallots in a decadent cream sauce. Also noteworthy is the meltingly tender Asian-spiced lamb shank.

What The Dining Scene Needs in 2011

The Disgruntled Chef
26B Dempsey Rd., 6476-5305.
There was some hullabaloo about the name when The Disgruntled Chef first opened. Tongues wagged and chef-owner Daniel Sia firmly insisted that in this case, a name is just a name. Well, enough about that. The overriding grey color palette and clean lines make for a minimalist space, while the dining concept promotes the merits of sharing. Modern European dishes are executed with ease and grace, such as the baked bone marrow with homemade persillade, crayfish mac’n’cheese and fig crisps with Roquefort cream. And the drinks here are pretty darn good, too.

Ippudo TAO
#01-55 UE Square, 207 River Valley Rd., 6887-5315.
The whole ramen craze might be so over, but this joint is one of the best. The noodles here are delish, but we especially appreciate that they also do kushiyaki (Japanese grilled dishes) for added variety. Plus, they’re open till a little later than most (last order on weekdays is at 11pm, while it’s at 1am on weekends).

Kinki Restaurant + Bar
#02-02 Customs House, 70 Collyer Quay, 6533-3471.
The brightly-colored floor mural (designed by Chris Garver of Miami Ink fame), exposed pipes and light fixtures fashioned from fishing hooks clearly indicate their departure from the usual Japanese restaurant décor. That same attitude is displayed in the food, with pan-seared foie gras and raw Hokkaido scallop sushi, century egg, organic tofu and snow crab in ponzu sauce and grilled black cod in a pomegranate-honey miso sauce. They’ve (finally) opened up their alfresco area, for yet another rooftop experience along the waterfront.

kunio tokuoka
#02-139 Crockfords Tower Lobby Level, 26 Sentosa Gateway, 6686-3633.
We’re a little jaded when it comes to this whole celeb chef business. After all, it’s no secret that quite a few of them open up and, like Cake sang, are almost “never there.” Michelin-starred chef Kunio Tokuoka swings by every so often to check in on things, which is a comforting thought. The kaiseki menu is divine and the service well above average, but be prepared to drop a handful of big ones.

L’Entrecôte
36 Duxton Hill, 6238-5700.
A Parisian-style steak and frites bistro that only offers one main course (who would have thought we’d go for that?). Sure, it’s a bit of a tight squeeze inside the place, but we reckon the foie gras terrine, duck rillettes and waffles with salted caramel make it all worthwhile. As a bonus, our wallets don’t suffer from post-traumatic stress.

Peach Garden Sichuan @ Miramar
3/F Hotel Miramar, 401 Havelock Rd., 6736-3833.
We’re always hankering after a dose of seriously spicy Sichuan fare. And this is where we found it. Their range of dishes includes relatively mild options such as sautéed pork neck with onions and minced garlic or braised prawns, fried French beans with minced meat and Sichuan peppers and crystal vermicelli in a claypot, as well as the fiery Chong Qing diced chicken and chilled chicken in spicy paste. And just in case you forget where you are, they’ve decided not to take any chances with peach tree art work on almost every wall and pillar.

Restaurant Ten
7 Purvis St., 6333-9901.
On our first visit to the reincarnation of Metropole Herbal Restaurant in a three story shophouse, we were greeted with bright lights, white leather chairs, and pale yellow walls and tablecloths. They’ve since softened it up a smidge, with a smattering of brightly-colored paintings adorning the walls. Fortunately, their modern Chinese food isn’t only scrumptious; it distinguishes itself with its efforts to ease up on the usage of oil—sure to please the more health-conscious. The stellar service is a real bonus. 

What 2011 Needs

• Better service standards please (it is possible?). And no, before you ask, it doesn’t stop at just filling up our wine glass when we politely ask you to.
• Daring dining concepts. We thoroughly enjoyed guerilla dining, so something else to keep us entertained while we fulfill our gastronomic needs would be much appreciated.
• Just for the heck of it, how about some controversy? Aside from infamous food blogger ladyironchef and the “to pay, or not to pay” Private Affairs fiasco (how dare he call himself a lady!), and a $1,200 fish at RWS, the scene is lacking real talking points. We reckon it wouldn’t hurt to shake things up every so often. [TOP]

Why open a restaurant in Singapore?
Why not? I’ve been to Singapore about ten or so times, and I love it. I wouldn’t open a restaurant in a city I didn’t like. This is a good city for food and ingredients and it’s very cultured. I think the people here really know, love and respect great food and have a good palate. But location was important for me. I looked for three years, even at Resorts World Sentosa and Marina Bay Sands. Finally, this came up and we thought this [atop ION Orchard] was the best one.

Some chefs have difficulties finding ingredients as Singapore doesn’t have a lot of our own local produce. How did you deal with that?
What Salt grill is all about is Australian seafood and meat, but using local fruits and veg. I think what Singapore’s got in terms of that is fantastic and that’s what the perfect marriage is all about—bringing those two things together and showcasing them both.

Did you think about the local palate in creating the menu?
No. That’s not being arrogant but I think Salt grill is simple enough that it won’t offend. I wouldn’t dream of telling a Chinese cook to put Australian influences in their cooking. We are what we are.

What inspires you?
I believe in keeping it simple. Let the ingredients speak for themselves and try not to mask the flavors of the food, like a great piece of beef. I don’t like fancy, rich food; I like light, healthy, clean food. I’m also very lucky to be able to travel. So I’m always going to different markets and learning when I eat other people’s food. You might pick up one little component and you might be able to use it somewhere.

Salt grill, 55/F ION Orchard, 2 Orchard Turn, 6592-5118. Open daily 11:30am-3pm, 6-10:30pm.

Just when you thought you could get back on track with that newly-acquired gym membership, along comes Chinese New Year with a clang. Never one to arrive quietly, Spring Festival ushers in the Year of the Dragon with loads of choices for (ahem) tossing your yu sheng salad. After checking out an endless parade of delicious raw fish and vegetables, we narrow it down to four picks for a stellar reunion dinner.

Cherry Garden
5/F Mandarin Oriental Singapore, 5 Raffles Ave., 6885-3538.
The main event: Executive chef Hiew Gun Khong is the proud creator of our favorite rendition so far. Aside from the customary pomelo sacs, dried orange peel and winter melon, chef Hiew’s Triumph Yu Sheng (from $118, available for dine-in and takeaway) is a winning recipe of julienned cucumber, beetroot, carrot, red cabbage and geoduck. Components such as crispy sweet potato strips, crushed peanuts and sesame seeds add an extra loud crunch, while the dark pink-hued preserved roselle adds a gorgeous color to the plate and a lightly-sweet surprise. The finishing touch brings the entire dish together wonderfully: A duo of house made sauces, sweet and sour, as well as a blended olive oil and spring onion. You can even customize it by adding sliced abalone ($68), salmon roe ($48) Hokkaido surf clams ($20) and crispy fish skin ($12).
Other highlights: A contemporary take on wok-fried spare ribs, in a chocolate-Mandarin orange sauce, and a more traditional braised baby abalone with dried oysters, fish maw, pork trotters, sea cucumber and mushrooms in a rich brown sauce.
To end: If you want something sweet, try the steamed red bean and nian gao layer cake ($26) and signature nian gao dumplings stuffed with macadamia nuts and coconut crumbs ($38). Or grab a box of coconut and pineapple sable cookies to munch on at home ($42).

Min Jiang
Goodwood Park Hotel, 22 Scotts Rd., 6730-1704.
The main event: Try as we might, we couldn’t get the chefs to divulge what goes into the top-secret sauce that’s drizzled onto the mountainous heap of fresh seafood and veggies. What we do know is that Min Jiang’s ichiban version uses hamachi (yellow tail), tobiko (flying fish roe), wasabi ebiko (prawn roe), seaweed, rocket, lettuce, shredded red and white carrots, jellyfish, pomelo and Buddha’s hand citron ($108). A medley of pine nuts, peanuts, sesame seeds, homemade taro and sweet potato sticks makes for the perfect textural contrast, while a liberal squeeze of lime juice provides that extra tang to counter the overall sweetness.
Other highlights: Noteworthy mentions include braised savoy cabbage-wrapped chicken, stuffed with superior shark’s fin and Chinese ham, sprinkled with plump wolf berries ($248) and Golden Fortune Treasures Egg ($198). The latter is a stunning egg-shaped centerpiece covered in gold foil. When its salt crust is cracked open, it reveals whole abalone, dried scallops and oysters, pork knuckles and mushrooms encased within a lotus leaf wrapper.
To end: Instead of the conventional sticky cake, an absolute must-have is the mango-pomelo and durian pudding prosperity fish ($88). Not only is it pretty (yes, we’re superficial like that), it is also a scrumptiously light alternative to heavy nian gao.

Peony Jade Restaurant
M Level Keppel Club, Bukit Chermin Rd., 6276-9138.
The main event: Without a doubt, chef Ryan Shiu’s rainbow raw fish (from $188) is tailor-made for all the seafood addicts out there. The stunning array of Atlantic salmon, lobster, tuna, ikan parang, sweet ebi, cuttlefish, fish stomach and Sultan fish mingles with the usual suspects, and is dressed with yuzu honey and plum sauce resulting in a nectarous jumble of fresh, citrus and sweet flavors.
Other highlights: Dragons may be completely fictional, but Royale Dragon Pearls ($388) certainly aren’t. Fine, it’s only dragon-related by name, but it’s divine. Poached chunks of Australian lobster topped with bird’s nest rest on smooth pumpkin puree, while a mix of strawberries and mangoes is piled atop chilled lobster flesh, garnished with shavings of black truffle. 
To end: If you’ve got a second stomach that’s reserved solely for dessert, then theirs should really resonate with you. The Rabbit Fortune gift set ($88) features painstakingly-crafted rabbit-shaped pastries made with the same casing as snow skin moon cakes that hide Peony Jade’s popular salted egg yolk custard filling. Durian lovers will enjoy a multi-tiered Gold Bar Nian Gao ($68), composed of Mao Shan Wang pulp and sheets of sticky cake.

Si Chuan Dou Hua Restaurant
G/F PARKROYAL on Beach Road, 7500 Beach Rd., 6505-5722.
The main event: Executive chefs Zeng Feng and James Yau have settled on mushrooms as their featured ingredient. While their Golden Longevity Yusheng (from $70, also available for takeaway) has its fair share of sliced salmon and shredded vegetables, its true appeal lies in the combination of sweet mangoes and papayas that heighten the earthy flavor of deep fried enoki and hajime mushrooms. The curls of crispy fish skin also serve as a satisfying crunch.
Other highlights: A delectable offering for the celebratory season is the Sichuan claypot of treasures (from $268), which includes a mixture of braised pork knuckles, shark’s fin, abalone, sea cucumber, dried oysters, soy chicken, duck, conpoy, yam, white radish, red dates and mushrooms.
To end: Take home their Four Seasons Harmony box ($38.80), which contains a colorful hodgepodge of four different cakes. Aside from the traditional nian gao, there are red bean with red dates, carrot cake with waxed meat and conpoy and sugarcane with water chestnuts (our personal choice).

To the Rescue
If you’ve yet to buy all the CNY goodies that are absolutely vital this time of year, do what we do and head to the food fair at Takashimaya Square (B2 Takashimaya Shopping Centre, 391 Orchard Rd., 6506-0461). This annual fixture is a godsend for us procrastinators, with a vast collection of pineapple tarts, bak kwa and other snacks (and samples too). Head down now through Feb 1, 10am-9.30pm.

What are you looking forward to on your visit to Singapore?
This will be my second visit. There’s a lot of freedom and I’m attracted to that and being able to use the acoustics of a fine hall, the volume of an electric guitar. I don’t have to worry about anyone else and everything seems to connect.

What inspired your latest album, National Ransom?
We place a lot of trust in people, financial institutions and politicians, but there’s a sense of fear and uncertainty which all of us experience in one way or another. But it’s not about proposing a solution or apportioning blame. It’s slightly mysterious, why your mind lingers in a certain place. And some days you feel things to a greater or lesser extent. I think it’s second nature to reflect on that. It was only after I’d written several of them that I felt they hung together in a common thread. It took me 11 days to record. I had a clear idea of the mood of each song, and when it was combined in an ensemble, it turned out better than I could have ever dreamed.

What’s the creative process like for you?
I tremendously admire people who write songs and edit, but for me, the less self-conscious I am about it and the less I question it, the better. Spontaneous composition is where my art is revealed.

What do you enjoy most, the process of writing, recording or performing?
I’m quite happy with just performing, because performance is always evolving. I don’t want to be reheating the same old formula. It’s also about how you combine different songs and juxtapose them in an interesting way. I like to use the emotion of one song to set up the mood of another.

Catch the gifted Elvis Costello in action on Mar 7, 8:30pm, at the Grand Theater in Marina Bay Sands, Galleria Level, 10 Bayfront Ave., 6688-8868. $90-210 from Sistic.