Top Kids Attractions in Kuala Lumpur
Six great days out for families with children.
One of the most popular attractions in the city, the bird park boasts one of the world’s largest free-flight walk-in aviaries. The 21-acre site is home to approximately 300 different species of birds from mighty hornbills to tiny hummingbirds. Don't miss the daily feeding shows (12.30/3pm).
920 Jalan Cenderawasih, Taman Tasik Perdana, 2272-1010. RM38 (children from 3-12), RM48 (adults). Open daily 9am-6pm. www.klbirdpark.com
Right next door to the iconic twin towers you can explore the underwater world at the Aquaria KLCC. From mountain streams through to the mysterious depths of the ocean, glimpse some of the weird and wonderful creatures that make the water their home. The highlight has to be the 297-foot underwater viewing tunnel.
Concourse Level, KLCC Complex, 2333-2888. RM25 (kids), RM35 (adults). www.klaquaria.com
For an educational experience with a very fun twist, head to this interactive science discovery center. With a host of exciting rides, exhibitions and interactive science activities, you can have fun while learning about everything from dinosaurs and space to the history of the petroleum industry.
Level 4, Suria KLCC, 2331-8181. RM47 (kids), RM12 (adults). Open Tue-Sun 9:30am-5:30pm. www.petrosains.com.my
From the depths of the ocean to the tops of mountains, well at least the tops of climbing walls. A fun way to blow off steam is to head to this state-of-the-art indoor climbing facility, housed in a 24m-high fully air-conditioned building. Even better they have special courses designed for kids. Opt for the one-hour taster sessions where your children can try out the climbing walls and boulders under the watchful eye of the trained instructors (RM48/per person).
EZ501 5th Floor, 1 Utama Shopping Centre, Bandar Utama Damansara, 7726-0420/0410. Open Mon–Fri 2pm – 11pm, Sat-Sun 10am– 8pm. www.camp5.com
Talking of dinosaurs, another great educational experience is a visit to this exhibition at the Avenue K Mall, which aims to take you back 250 million years to when these giant lizards roamed the earth. Head through the time tunnel to the Mesozoic Era and discover lots of fun interactive exhibits and 22 moving, breathing, roaring dinosaur animatronics in their natural habitat. Tickets are RM40 for Adults and RM50 for children.
Level 4, Discoveria @ Avenue K Shopping Mall, 156, Jalan Ampang. Open daily 10am-10pm. discoveria.com.my
If you prefer your animals to be a little cuddlier, then do head to the Farm in the City. Designed to look like a traditional Malaysian village the farm prides itself on having no cages with all the animals allowed to roam free in natural enclosures. Kids will love the chance to get up close and pet the animals, which cover a host of species including foxes, monkeys and snakes alongside more traditional farmyard animals like rabbits and goats.
Lot 40187-40188, Jalan Prima Tropika Barat, Bandar Putra Permai, 3-8941-3099/2099. Open Mon, Wed-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat-Sun 9:30am-6pm. RM48 per adult and RM38 child below.
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In Hong Kong, the second a neighborhood becomes “trendy,” two things happen. 1) Lifestyle magazines gush about it and 2) investors rush in, snap up all the remaining property, causing artists and artisans to pack up and leave. The trick is to find out about an area when it’s just on the cusp of awesomeness. Here are two areas on Hong Kong island to include in your itinerary.
Stone Nullah
There was a time that Stone Nullah Lane, at the northeastern limits of Wan Chai, was home to only three things: the St. James’ Settlement charity; the historic Blue House, and a lorry-load of auto repair shops. These still remain, but the lane is increasingly growing into a community thanks to the government’s heritage-driven approach to the Blue House, which has kept its residents post-renovation and given the area a real sense of character. “I think it’s going to be a cool area,” says chef Maureen Loh of neighborhood restaurant Maureen. “Right now you see four old men playing mahjong—but if the government decides they want the big names coming in, it might destroy the area.”
Stone Nullah Tavern
The food is “New American”, complete with craft beers. And with floor-to-ceiling windows, you can sit here all evening and watch the neighborhood get cool around you.
69 Stone Nullah Lane, Wan Chai, 3182-0128.
Maureen
This 16-seater restaurant, serves up a molecular take on classic Chinese lo mein, complete with a foamed shallot sauce. You get specials such as 48-hour beef short ribs and Cantonese-style sous vide salmon. Just next door, Tai Lung Fung (5 Hing Wan St, Wan Chai, 2572- 0055) is a bar with a 60s-era Hong Kong décor—and some very modern cocktails.
11 Hing Wan St., Wan Chai, 2915-2261.
Green Ladies
A women’s vintage clothing shop that splits profits 70:30 between itself and its donors. It’s a great place to pick up a bit of pre-loved Lanvin. If you’re more oatmeal than haute couture, check out Green Shop (3A Kennedy St., Wan Chai, 2116 -1106, greenshop.sjs.org.hk) just around the corner that produces organic food for the rabbit in us all.
85 Stone Nullah Lane, Wan Chai, 2831-3204.
Headtable
Headtable is no ordinary deli: high-quality frozen meat is their specialty and there are monthly specials—right now they’re offering US dry-aged beef steaks, Canadian lobster tails and candied fruits.
64 Stone Nullah lane, Wan Chai, 2574-7767.
Wan Chai Visual Archive
A hyper-cool community-centered art space that tries to combine the spirit of the area with art.
5 Hing Wan St., Wan Chai.
Caroline Haven
South of Causeway Bay, sandwiched between Caroline Hill Road and the cul-de-sac of Haven Street lies a creaky block called Lei Shun Court. It doesn’t look like much, but go around the sides and you’ll find a strip of restaurants that’s recently bloomed into life. Plunge into the dingy, strip-lit interior, among the tailors and a shop dedicated to bowling balls to find some of the coolest little places in town. “The area’s kind of amazing: old stuff and new stuff, old people and new people,” says Leo Li of super-hip design, accessory and home store In Between (Shop 12, Lei Shun Court, 1 Caroline Hill Rd., Causeway Bay). “The whole feeling’s like Star Street ten years ago.”
Hola Classic
Fortunately there isn’t a Hawaiian shirt or board shorts in sight. The charming menswear establishment is all about classic English tailoring—tweed-heavy as you’d expect—with a little hipster flair. A window in the shop opens onto a tailor’s workshop, where a custom suit will cost from just HK$1,980 ($326).
17A Haven St., Causeway Bay, 2870-0245.
Bunkaya Zakkaten
The only overseas branch of the legendary Tokyo outlet, this chaotic zakka (“many-things”) store is full of life-improving delights. It’s jam-packed with simultaneously useless-and-must-have items, and everything
spills outside.
11A Lei Shun Court, 1 Caroline Hill Rd., Causeway Bay, 2808-0304.
Burgeroom
Three words: foie gras burger.
7 Caroline Hill Rd., Causeway Bay, 2890-9170.
Oscary Wine & Art
Art lessons and booze? This space has got it all. But if you’re after a creative place to sit and work, there’s R&C Design Library (22-24 Haven St., Causeway Bay, 2890-9838, www.facebook.com/cafernc). It’s like Starbucks, but nice.
Shop 30, 28 Haven St., Causeway Bay, 2964-9111.
5. Danish Bakery
This place has been here since time immemorial, but you’ll find no smørrebrød here. The bakery specializes in Hong Kong-style deep-fried delights, such as breaded pork chop buns. There’s always a queue and you have to like grease, but it’s an unmissable landmark.
106 Leighton Rd., Causeway Bay, 2576-7353.
There’s loads more to Caroline Haven. Check out this map put together by the community.
Essentials
Getting There
Flights with Singapore Airlines start from $338 through March 31, while Tiger Airways flies to Hong Kong from $168.
Where to stay
Hotel Indigo Hong Kong Island
242 Queen’s Rd. East, Wan Chai, Hong Kong Sar, Hong Kong, +852 3926-3888.
This slick accommodation has a cool vibe offers stylish rooms, an impressive rooftop pool and great breakfast. Rates per night start from $263. Elsewhere, a perfect compliment to your hip hood exploring is the newly opened Pentahotel Hong Kong Kowloon.
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If you want to start a fight with foodie friends, just challenge them to name the best dining city in the world. And if you want to really go no-holds-barred, tell them you think it’s Bangkok.
OK, so Thailand doesn’t yet have the economy to sustain bleeding edge food. And there’s more than a whiff of hype right now. Other cities still do molecular better; and for all that places like Le Beaulieu are doing classical food superbly well, you can find equivalents elsewhere. But what’s clear is that Bangkok is being watched and that the economy is growing fast. Michelin critics passed through recently, as part of their big Southeast Asian investigation. Robuchon is said to be opening something there soon. Rumor has it Juan Amador (another 3-star chef) is heading there, too. Michelin-worthy outlets have set up in the past, but they’ve never done well before; so change may be afoot.
Then, of course, Bangkok has the best Thai food in the world. And since Thai food tops so many people’s list of their favorite cuisines, maybe doing the world’s best Thai food—on top of all the other international, experimental stuff—means you really do have the best dining scene.
Says Gregoire Glachant, Managing Editor of our sister magazine BK, “I think people have also been blown away by the diversity of food in Bangkok. With food trucks so hot in the US, visitors are just amazed by the markets and the food carts here. It’s taken a few years but people now get that green curry and pad Thai were the tip of the tip of the iceberg. Best dining city? Maybe not. Most exciting (and perhaps underrated)? Probably.”
And since BK Magazine’s all-new Top Tables 2013 is far and away the best guide to Bangkok’s restaurant scene, we thought we’d share edited highlights of their top five here just to whet your appetite.
1. Nahm
Thai
While there may be one or two close rivals to the throne, we still believe Nahm serves the best Thai food you can eat in Bangkok. (In fact, we believe it serves the best food you can eat in Bangkok, period.) We love the flexibility given by the set menu which starts you off with delicious canapés (the skewered Southern grilled mussels are divine) before letting you pick one nam prik (relish), one salad, one soup (per person), one curry and one stir fry from a mouthwatering list of options. And while Thompson is resolutely traditional with his dishes, there is just enough innovation to keep you on your toes, especially in the sublime desserts courtesy of his partner, Tanongsak Yordwa.
G/F Metropolitan, Sathorn Rd., +66-625-3333. Open daily 7-11pm.
2. Le Beaulieu
French
Resisting fads and fashions, Chef Herve Frerard remains resolutely French, whipping up chicken liver pate, soups and consommés (such as his famous bouillabaisse) and hearty, rustic mains split between land and sea. In short, these are simple dishes using top ingredients imported direct from France or making the most of the chef’s involvement with the Royal Projects in Thailand. Such understated refinement and taste doesn’t come cheap and the crowd reflects this, but Le Beaulieu is currently our favorite French restaurant in town.
G/F Athenee Office Tower, 63 Witthayu (Wireless) Rd., +66-168-8220-3. Open Tue-Sun 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-11:30pm.
3. Quince
Mediterranean
The food at the super popular Quince is pretty consistently excellent. Unfortunately, Chef Jess Barnes left the place not long ago. Quince’s number three ranking is thus more a reflection on what the restaurant has accomplished until now, than a guarantee as to its future. Using local produce and seasonal ingredients, Barnes’ cuisine really shines through in dishes like the roasted carrots with shallot, honey, poppy seed and thyme. The space is truly handsome and the kitchen staff is both bold and talented—let’s hope it stays that way.
Sukhumvit Soi 45, +66-662-4478. Open daily 11:30am-1am.
4. The Water Library Thonglor
French
What if you imported nearly all your produce from the best sources in the world? What if you had more chefs than diners? What if you made those diners start eating together at the exact same time, with a set menu they can’t pick and choose from? This crazy dream is a reality at Water Library Thonglor (there’s also Water Library at Chamchuree Square, which does classic a la carte dining). The restaurant serves a maximum of 10 diners per night, starting at 7:30pm on the dot. To make it all happen, Water Library assembled a dream team of international mixologists, chefs and wait staff, and uses only the very best imported ingredients to boot. While this is Bangkok’s most expensive set dinner, the experience and flavors are also some of the most exciting in town.
The Grass, 264/1 Sukhumvit Soi 55, +66 (0)2-714-9292-3. Open daily 6pm-1am.
5. Bo.lan
Thai
Chefs and couple, Bo and Dylan (Bo. lan, get it?) worked at David Thompson’s Michelin-starred Thai restaurant Nahm at its original London location. But it was them who first brought the promise of authentic, uncompromising food at fine dining prices back home to Bangkok. Flavors are uncompromisingly, but not overpoweringly, hot, such as the grilled aubergine salad with fresh, plump river prawns and a perfectly half-boiled duck egg. Each bite lets the complexities of the Thai spices and herbs unfold in your mouth. This is Thai food for connoisseurs who want to be pleasantly surprised (as opposed to comforted) by what’s on their plate.
42 Sukhumvit Soi 26, +66 (0)2-260-2962. Open Tue-Sun 6:30-11pm.
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As unique as it is unforgettable, witnessing supersized sumo wrestlers duke it out live should be on every sports fan’s bucket list. Stables of wrestlers only hit the elevated ring for six tournaments a year, but each event lasts 15 days and the steep admission price (B650-4,435) seems all the more reasonable when you realize that dozens of fights occur before a yokozuna (grand champion) emerges the day’s final bout. We recommend showing up first thing in the morning; it’s entirely acceptable to squat terrifyingly close to the action in front-row boxes, as their wealthy owners seldom show up before mid-afternoon when the best fighters toss chalk and take center stage. www.sumo.or.jp
In truth, the event was only held on Mount Fuji once, and those who witnessed the legendary show have contributed to the lore that has turned Fuji Rock into Japan’s largest outdoor music festival (the story involves a typhoon, hypothermia and the Red Hot Chili Peppers). The annual event now boasts over 200 acts across seven stages, and in the past two years the crowds have swelled to over the 100,000 mark to see sets from the likes of Coldplay, Radiohead, Jack White, Elvis Costello, the Stone Roses and Noel Gallagher. The line-up for 2013 rolls out over the next few months, but they’ve already announced that Nine Inch Nails and Bjork will be headliners and that acts like Of Monsters and Men, The Cure and The xx will appear. It’s worth the trip north. www.smash-uk.com/frf13
Ninety minutes east of Osaka sits Iga, a city that pays tribute each year to the legendary covert mercenaries by hosting ninja performances, competitions and instruction sessions. All of the (awesome sounding) citizens get involved—train passengers dressed like ninjas get free rides, and the city council hosts a dress-up session called Ninja Congress. www.iganinja.jp
Ozzy Osbourne’s signature metalstock hits Chiba (a suburb of Tokyo) with a sick 2013 line-up that includes Black Sabbath, Slipknot, Slash, Deftones, and Tool. Stock up on black hair dye now. www.ozzfestjapan.com
With 20 countries represented at last year’s event, expect quite a crowd in Nagoya as they crown another world cosplay champion. www.tv-aichi.co.jp/wcs
This two-day fest takes place in Tokyo and Osaka simultaneously, and this year’s line-up is absolutely crazy: Metallica, Linkin Park, Muse, The Smashing Pumpkins, M.I.A., Cindi Lauper, John Legend, Carly Rae Jepsen and many, many more. www.summersonic.com
The Korean government likes to credit this festival’s growth to the restorative properties of Boryeong’s mud flats and the natural beauty of this small town, located a couple of hours south of Seoul. Well, with all due respect, we’ve been to the event and let’s just say that it isn’t quiet mud baths that have made this the peninsula’s most popular draw for expats and tourists alike. Convenience stores effortlessly fulfill their beer-selling quotas as the packed beach plays host to mud wrestling, mud sliding, mud swimming and even a mud marathon. For the mud lazy or mud drunk, a main stage hosts live bands all day and fireworks after dark. It’s raucous, filthy fun, but your washing machine (and liver) will hate you for it. tiny.cc/hk-mudfest
It’s growing. The rock-a-palooza formerly known as the Jisan Valley Rock Festival had their main stage rocked by headliners Radiohead and James Blake last summer, and while the line-up for this year’s event is still pending, expect similar caliber acts as the venue (or valley, rather) has been upgraded to accommodate more tents and concertgoers. Rock fans based in Seoul are spoiled with festivals in 2013, as it was recently announced that Super!Sonic Music Festival will be returning to Olympic Park in August this year, tasked with topping a stacked 2012 line-up that featured the Smashing Pumpkins, Gotye, Gym Class Heroes, Foster the People, New Order, and Tears for Fears. www.valleyrockfestival.com and www.supersonickorea.com
Korea is now a global baseball powerhouse, and like any spectator sport experience south of the DMZ, their national league’s games are a riot. Stadiums are divided so that fans only sit amongst their own clan, drinking and chiding the other side with enthusiasm throughout. Next time you’re in Seoul or Busan, take yourself out to a ball game. www.koreabaseball.com
During this annual fest and its flagship parade, the streets of Seoul light up with colorful traditional dress and larger-than-life, rolling tributes to 600 years of Korean history and the birth of the Buddha. tiny.cc/hk-lotus
Last year’s event drew over 10,000 musi-campers to catch headlining acts Jason Mraz and Christina Perri, and 2013’s organizers have already confirmed that Scottish post-Britpoppers Travis will take to the stage. www.rainbowfestival.co.kr
Ultra Music Festival is Korea’s biggest mainstream electronic and dance jamboree, packing the stage for two days with industry heavy hitters like Armin Van Buuren, Carl Cox and Avicii. www.umfkorea.com.
If quiet relaxation isn’t your idea of a good time, infuse your vay-cay with plenty of high-octane fume-spewing action as drivers from around the world speed along the Marina Bay Street Circuit in a bid to win this prestigious title. Singapore’s annual event is F1’s only street race held at night, and if you’ve never taken the opportunity to grab some ear-plugs and join the 110,000-strong crowd that take to the street, there’s no better time than this year. Early bird tickets are already on sale, and the first block of tickets come with a chance to win an autograph session with the drivers. www.singaporegp.sg.
Catch some of the hottest names in the worlds of hip-hop, dancehall, soul and funk as they arrive at Fort Canning Park for this inaugural fest. Local acts like Wicked Aura, Kevin Lester and the Pushin’On Crew should have their profiles raised significantly, as they join a line-up that features a slate of well-known international acts including Pharoahe Monche, The Pharcyde, The Cuban Brothers, Chrom3, and Four Dub playing together with one of the dudes from Jurassic 5. Tickets are on sale now, and word on the street is that the first 500 peeps to show up at the park receive a free wig. It will be sizeable, presumably. www.bigwigfestival.com
This annual epicurean event brings together the cuisine of top chefs from five-star establishments across the island as well as wines from world-class vintners. www.worldgourmetsummit.com
Emerging artists from Singapore earn their spots through a series of band battles, and those talented upstarts will be joined by established Asian acts from the alternative music scene. www.baybeats.com.sg
With over 50 new beers on show from global brands as well as emerging breweries from Asia, this premier beer festival will also cater to the taste buds of those who prefer champagne, ciders, spirits and wine. www.beerfestasia.com.
One of the country’s most popular music events, Splendour in the Grass keeps its visitors happily hippified with open-air yoga sessions, market stalls and performance artists. The official lineup won’t be announced until mid- to late- April but rumors are that Bob Dylan, Polyphonic Spree, OutKast rapper Big Boi, Deap Vally and Wavves will take the stage at the three-day festival—which is like the Aussie version of the UK’s Glastonbury and America’s Coachella. There’s an option to camp out at this year’s new location of North Byron Parklands, but if you’re not the sleeping bag type, be sure to book early enough so you can get comfortable accommodation nearby. www.splendourinthegrass.com
For the first time since 2001, the Lions, consisting of players from England, Ireland, Scotland and Wales, will play nine games against Australia’s Wallabies and major local clubs on Australian soil. Celebrating their 125th anniversary, team will visit Perth, Brisbane, Newcastle, Sydney, Canberra and Melbourne during their month-long tour. www.lionsrugby.com.
Start your engines as Coffs Harbour (halfway between Sydney and Brisbane) welcomes the FIA World Rally Championship. www.rallyaustralia.com.au
Australia’s ultimate racing event at Flemington, now in its 153rd year, is a time for fascinators, champagne, the British royal family (Charles and Camilla were there with disapproving looks at the way the plebs were dressed last year), Aussies dressed to the nines falling drunkenly all over the place and, oh yes, horses. melbournecup.com.
Relax in nature, breathe in unpolluted air, taste dishes made by world-class chefs and sip wine from Margaret River—the famous wine region in Western Australia. For three days in late November, this relatively new wine destination for tourists is holding its second annual Gourmet Escape where wine snobs, gourmet food lovers and tourists can come together to enjoy tastings from the area’s wineries (there’s close to 100), top-notch cuisine, cooking classes and demonstrations with celebrity chefs, live music playing around the vineyards, and street parties. It’s just over a three-hour drive south of Perth so even if you’re not in town for the event, it’s still worth a trip to visit their cellars or for the a monthly farmers’ market, surf beaches and exhibitions from regional artists. For more info on tickets, the attending chefs and food and wine experts, visit www.gourmetescape.com.au.
One of Hong Kong’s largest annual festivities, breathing life into the rainy season, are these four events combined into one. The festival kicks off June 21-23 with the Dragon Boat Carnival, gathering more than 5,000 boat racers from 21 countries, followed by the Summer Pop Live in Hong Kong concert and Lan Kwai Fong Beer and Music Festival—though the full details have yet to be announced. But what most Thais are really mad about is the Visa Go Shopping Indulgence (June 21-August 31), aka the Hong Kong Sale, when most stores on the island, from high-end boutiques to street fashion brands, offer major discounts. www.discoverhongkong.com
While still under the management of Art Basel, a Switzerland-based art fair organizer whose main events are in Basel and Miami, the sixth edition of the Hong Kong International Art Fair will launch with a new name to better reflect its prestigious pedrigree. Art Basel Hong Kong will take place at Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre and will feature contemporary artworks from more than 250 galleries worldwide. The fair also features an extensive talk program offering educational opportunities for willing participants. Tickets are HK$250 (B945). www.artbasel.com
Hong Kong’s annual French arts festival (known as La Fete in Thailand) is now in its 21st year. This time around it will host more than 500 operas, dances, music showcases (from classical to electro), cabarets and cinema events at different venues throughout the island, including Hong Kong Cultural Centre and Hong Kong Academy of Performing Arts. For paid events, tickets are available at www.hkticketing.com. See a complete list of events at www.frenchmay.com
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How to open a beer bottle...
1. With a ring. You’ll need a good, sturdy one, like a class ring, to get this to work. While holding the bottle, approach it with your ringed hand at a 45 degree angle, so that the bottom of your ring makes contact with the bottle cap. Clasping your hand over and around the neck of the bottle in order to maximize the amount of pressure you exert where the ring meets the bottle cap. Roll your wrist forwards while continually applying pressure.
How to open a beer bottle...
2. With a lighter. You’ll need a sturdy plastic lighter for this one. Metal or cheap plastic ones aren’t much use. Wrap one of your hands completely around the neck of the bottle, covering the bottle cap. Slide the lighter underneath the bottle cap while maintaining the seal over as much of the rest of the cap as possible. Push down with the lighter until the cap comes off.
How to open a beer bottle...
3. With a ¥100 bill. Fold the bill in half. Roll it up as tightly as possible, then fold the roll in half. Hold the bill in place between your thumb and your index finger. Place the folded corner under the ridge of the bottle cap while holding the bottle around the neck. Push up with the folded bill until you hear the pop.
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Owned by the folks behind steakhouse Shore (located on the floors above), The Salted Pig is all about European-style comfort food—and pork, of course. The pork knuckle sandwich is a signature, but you’ll also find beef and chicken dishes.
2/F, The L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 852-2870-2323.
Red Almond, Aqua group’s latest venture, serves up fiery Sichuan dishes that use the signature ma la peppercorn flavors as a foundation. Chili beef, pork dumplings and ma la tofu are examples of what’s on offer.
Shop 1402, 14/F, Hysan Place, 500 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 852-2155-2872.
Celebrity chef Mario Batali and Dining Concepts’ latest project, Carnevino, focuses on steak and fine wines. Located right on top of Lupa (Batali and Dining Concepts’ first collaboration), the space gives off an old boys’ club vibe, with masculine touches and lots of wood and leather. In short, it’s a proper steakhouse. Expect USDA prime cuts accompanied with artisanal salt, and lots of starchy sides like Tuscan fries, mashed potatoes and creamed corn.
5/F, LHT Tower, 31 Queen’s Rd. Central, 852-2532-7700.
Latin American cuisine is on fire in Hong Kong these days, and Socialito is hopping on the bandwagon with Mexican specialist Socialito, serving up tacos and margaritas all night long in the midst of Hong Kong’s bustling nightlife district.
Shop 2, G/F, The Centrium, 60 Wyndham St., Central, 852-3167-7380.
French-Italian chef Philippe Leveille of Michelin-star fame has set up shop at The L Place, offering authentic Italian fare with just a bit of French influence. Carefully crafted scampi tartare, seafood pastas and quail are just some of the dishes Leveille will be cooking up.
10/F, The L Place, 137-141 Queen’s Rd. Central, 852-2555-9100.
The well-liked Shanghai Min group has just opened a new contemporary-style Shanghainese restaurant in Causeway Bay, serving braised crispy pork buns, pumpkin cakes and other specialties in a modern, open setting.
Shop 1201, 12/F, Hysan Place, 500 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 852-2648-2299.
This quaint Italian restaurant’s first location in the Mid-Levels is doing so well that it will be expanding with a second branch in Tai Hang. If this new venue is anything like the original, expect hearty appetizers and tasty pastas in warm, romantic surrounds.
36-40 Tung Lo Wan Rd., Tai Hang.
Well-known restaurateur/chef Tony Cheng’s latest project is a French-themed eatery that comes with its own croissanterie and café on the side. Serving classic French dishes, Le Salon is the type of restaurant you’d want to dress up for. Don’t leave without trying the croissants, stuffed with things like caramel, chocolate and chestnut.
Shop 1302, 13/F, Hysan Place, 500 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 852-2115-3328.
We asked Hong Kong’s top chefs to dish out on their favorite spots (when they’re not in the kitchen, of course).
I love Kenjo on Minden Avenue. The freshness, quality and interaction with guests make it one of the best dining experiences I’ve had. I really like Life Café in SoHo, too. Great coffee and smoothies.
Local food stalls sate my appetite, and fish balls are my favorite. I enjoy the food stalls in Sham Shui Po—they [represent] the collective memory of the Hong Kong people.
I like cha chaan tengs [local diners]—
like Tsui Wah, for example. I like milk tea and the fried noodles with beef; they represent something unique about Hong Kong food culture.
Enoteca on Elgin Street: always consistent; good service and great value for money. For great coffee, Cafe Loisl in Sheung Wan. Din Tai Fung. Megan’s Kitchen for hotpot.
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South Korea’s capital is a hard nut to crack, travel-wise. Much to the disappointment of many K-pop-obsessed visitors, it can be difficult to gain insider-level intel on the city’s ultra-hip world of trendy cafés, boutiques and artsy spaces—not to mention hard-to-find restaurants with untranslated menus. But with these suggestions, you can get a slightly more local perspective.
EAT
84 Sogyeok-dong, Jongro-gu, +822-739-6334.
The specialty here is wang mandoo guk—literally, giant dumpling soup. At the front of the restaurant, a team of veteran chefs with lighting-quick hands stuff, fold and crease doughy pockets of goodness.
817-28 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, +822-3452-7273, www.bulzip.co.kr
Enjoy some top-notch soju and BBQ pork belly at this lively watering hole.
150-7 Samseong 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, +822-5612-2834.
Fill up on authentic Korean steak, barbecued simply with garlic and cabbage on a burner right at the center of the table. The high-quality rib-eye (from cows raised in Korea, of course) is the star of the show. It isn’t cheap. But it’s delicious—even more so when the waiter makes kkakdugi (white-radish kimchi) fried rice in the same pan used to cook the beef.
809-6 Yeoksam-song, Gangnam-gu, +822-557-6460, www.kkanbu.co.kr
Stop by for the quintessential Korean late-night meal of fried chicken, fries and beer.
549-9 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, +822-546-1567.
A restaurant serving traditional Korean fare just off of Garosu-gil, a trendy street that by day is great for shopping, people-watching and latte-sipping. Relax atop cushions on a raised platform against walls lined with old newspapers and feast on bulgogi, kimchi pancakes, bean-paste soup, egg soufflé (less weird and more yummy than it sounds) and an array of banchan (little side dishes).
75-1 Taeyoung Building #102, Insa-dong, Jongro-gu.
This small restaurant serves up delicious ddeokbokki, a favorite spicy street food made of sliced rice cakes, noodles and egg.
DO
564-35 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, +822-325-8553. www.freemarket.or.kr
Amid throngs of students and creative types, local artisans sell crafty goods from cutesy jewelry to hand-drawn postcards to sophisticated leather credit-card holders.
SHOP
199-17 Sindang-dong, Jung-gu, +822-2231-0936.
This place sells the type of clothes and accessories stocked by boutiques across Seoul, except at bargain prices.
B1-B2/F, 1303-22 Seocho 4-dong, Seocho-gu, +822-1544-1900, www.kyobobook.co.kr
Stock up on artsy Korean stationery at this top-notch bookstore.
170 Gwanhoon-dong, Jongro-gu, +822-2732-6427, www.osulloc.com.
This teahouse and store is part of a 33-year-old brand that harvests its leaves from fields on Jeju, a much-loved island off the country’s south shore.
Located at the secluded Mount Namsan, Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul (From KRW600,000 [B16,488].San 5-5, Jang Chung-Dong 2-Ga Jung-Gu, +822-2250-8000. www.banyantree.com.) has only 16 rooms and 16 suites so you’re sure to have plenty of privacy. Each room also has its own indoor relaxation pool. For a fashionable-yet-more affordable option, rooms at the W Seoul - Walkerhill (175 Achaseong-gil, Gwangjin-gu, +82-2465-2222) are from KRW265,000 (B7,280). While Bangrang Hostel (397-14 Jungnim-dong, Jung-gu, +822-6414-2246) has long been a favorite among budget travelers with rates from KRW18,000 (B495) per bed and KRW30,000 (B825) per room.
THAI Airways, Korean Air and Asiana Airlines fly direct from Suvarnabhumi to Seoul’s Inchon Airport daily. Rates are roughly the same, starting from around B19,000 roundtrip.
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These four Hong Kong districts started off as factory towns, or arose from other humble beginnings, but they’re worth exploring right now—as artists, restaurateurs and creatives turn them into hotbeds of cutting edge cuisine and design. Check out these upstarts before they become mainstream.
On the whole, Wong Chuk Hang’s industrial buildings are chockablock with wholesale food distributors, Chinese furniture-making workshops and other businesses that aren’t exactly easily browse-able. Slowly but surely, though, the area is undergoing a renaissance: art galleries love the lower rents and high ceilings of these loft-like spaces; two private kitchens opened up here for the same reasons: cost and space.
Located in the most unexpected of places, on the 22nd floor of the Kwai Bo Industrial Building (right next door to a wholesale fruit distributor), this beautifully designed private kitchen is a foodie’s paradise. The highly acclaimed and charismatic chef Stanley Wong cooks up tasty, creative dishes for groups of friends, corporate dinners or celebratory get-togethers, putting together customized menus to fit particular tastes and dietary needs. Private cooking classes are also available. Dinners start at HK$800 per person; advance bookings are required.
Unit B, 22/F, Kwai Bo Industrial Building, 40 Wong Chuk Hang Rd., Wong Chuk Hang, 6799-9925, www.culinart.com.hk
Tucked away in a run-down factory building (where else?), this art space is a sanctuary for sophisticated connoisseurs of culture and curious visitors alike. The spacious gallery allows for more elaborate, large-scale exhibitions, like the recent one by Beijing-based artist Lin Guocheng, who depicts natural scenes inspired by Chinese folklore in a unique, black-and-white style.
10/F, 12 Wong Chuk Rd., Wong Chuk Hang, 2153-3812.
A colorful and eclectic array of carefully curated homeware items fills this cute store, located in a space formerly occupied by a stool factory. On display is everything from accessories and stationery to toys and shoes, as well as furniture and artwork.
M/F, BT Centre, 23 Wong Chuk Hang Rd., Wong Chuk Hang, 2553-9811, www.mirthhome.com
Judging Ngau Tau Kok and its neighbor Kwun Tong by their looks alone would be a shame. Beneath the intimidating cargo lifts, enormous trucks and bland factory buildings, these industrial sites cultivate an amazing selection of cultural activities. We may already be in the thick of summer, but in Ngau Tau Kok, where workshops, a live music scene and an actual farm are blossoming, it feels more like spring.
Planning to lay down HK$1,000 on a mass-produced leather wallet or bag? Instead, consider paying a visit to Alri (pronounced elle-ree) Workshop which offers the tools and supplies to make a unique leather bag yourself. Under the tutelage of owner Alvin, you can also make a coin purse, iPhone case, wallet, camera bag or camera straps—he can even help you craft it in the style of a brand-name item. Expect to spend at least four to five hours (and anywhere from HK$450 to 1,000) on your project—leather-work is time-intensive! Book a time slot on their website first.
Flat D, 4/F, Wing Hing Lee Industrial Building, 32 Hung To Rd., Kwun Tong, 3791-2217, www.alriworkshop.com
Given its mostly industrial tenants, you’d think Kwun Tong would be dead at night. But nestled high up in a row of generic factory buildings is Strategic Sounds, which hosts shows with walk-up ticketing (HK$100-150) most weekends. The live music venue showcases mostly experimental and digital artists who attract niche followings, with Japanese noise music master KK Null a recent performer. The fact that it’s a small space without a formal stage leads to intimate performances. Owner Andrew Leung maintains the venue while juggling a day job, motivated by his aim to enrich the local music scene.
Shop E, 10/F, High Win Factory Building, 47 Hoi Yuen Rd., Kwun Tong, 9313-8371, www.facebook.com/stgsounds
These folks take a cup of joe super seriously. Beginners can opt to enroll in a latte art class or a barista course, but for those already well-versed in the coffee arts who need to outfit their kitchens, Coffee Lover carries professional coffee-makers and grinders. These passionate Java experts even roast their own blend made up of a careful selection of beans from five different countries. Don’t walk away without trying a mug of the Villa Donna coffee, too.
Flat B, 3/F, Wai Yip Industrial Building, 171 Wai Yip St., Kwun Tong, 3488-0278, www.wingyipcoffee.com
This restaurant cooks up dim sum of hotel quality at reasonable prices in a rarely frequented part of town. In the hands of a talented chef—who allegedly has celeb-worthy credentials but prefers to keep a low profile—traditional dim sum items are re-fashioned into contemporary creations. Featuring truffles and more. No single dish showcases Dim Delicious’ innovation more than their signature baked almond juice bun ($14 for two pieces). The chef selected a specific almond from Hebei province in China after sampling almonds grown all over the world. Dim Delicious is open daily from 10:30am to 3:30pm, so don’t head over too late in the day or you’ll miss out.
Flat G, 2/F, Wang Kwong Industrial Building, 45 Hong To Rd., Kwun Tong, 2950-0087.
Sai Ying Pun itself is set on the hillside, but don’t let the inclines scare you off—you’d be missing out on the low-key wonders of this modest neighborhood. A more bohemian, slightly edgier SoHo of sorts, the area around First and Second Streets, just south of Queen’s Road West, is now home to an increasing number of independent restaurants and galleries—all spirited small businesses run by people who are extremely passionate about what they do.
Expect authentic, British-style home-cooked meals, with comfort food like chicken noodle soup and on-the-go options like chicken baguettes. Everything is homemade (except the bread) and fresh. They also deliver all over Hong Kong Island.
Shop 11, G/F, Hang Sing Mansion, 72 High St., Sai Ying Pun, 2559-2190, www.thechickenman.com.hk
A new bakery, Eat My Cakes is a font of mouth-watering goodies from pies and cheesecake to cookies and cupcakes (try the “Death by Chocolate”). Catering is also available.
G/F, 21 Western St., Sai Ying Pun, 3480-8842, www.eatmycakes.com.hk
It may be popular with nearby HKU students, but adults also find this Sai Ying Pun pub a refreshing alternative to the bars in SoHo. (For one thing, its prices are cheaper!) Order a pint and some fish and chips while chatting with the two-year-old bar’s loyal customers from around the neighborhood.
G/F, 389-391 Queen’s Rd. West, Sai Ying Pun, 2698-2468.
From illustration and graphic design to street art and works referencing pop culture, Above Second strives to stay ahead of the curve. A platform for innovative contemporary art, this gallery showcases an array of Hong Kong artists and international artists. We hear they throw pretty cool parties, too, so you’d best get on their mailing list.
31 Eastern St., Sai Ying Pun, 3483-7950, www.above-second.com
The entrepreneurs who have made Chai Wan their home echo each other in their reasons for setting up shop in this part of town. More space and lower rents were the initial impetus—but as a bonus, many say, they’ve found a friendly community of creative thinkers. Keep up with the Facebook page www.facebook.com/ChaiWanMei for upcoming special events dedicated to showcasing what’s happening in Chai Wan.
The mission of Platform China’s original outlet in Beijing was to track down, support and exhibit emerging Chinese contemporary artists—and it plans to do the same in Hong Kong. Part gallery and part salon, manager Claudia Albertini also plans to host visiting artists and encourage site-specific projects.
Unit 601, 6/F, Chai Wan Industrial City (Phase I), 60 Wing Tai Rd., Chai Wan, 9768-8093, www.platformchina.org.
This cozy café slash restaurant—already well-known among the city’s epicures for its top-quality coffee—arose out of necessity, according to owner Jehan Chu. Expect a satisfying menu of hearty salads and innovative sandwiches, plus desserts by a former Press Room Group pastry chef; consume them in the company of friends or a magazine in Chaiwanese’s sunny, open space.
Room 1307, 13/F, Chai Wan Industrial City (Phase I), 60 Wing Tai Rd., Chai Wan, 6111-4583, www.chaiwanese.com.
These two sister shops are treasure troves for funky, trendy clothing and accessories for both men and women. Undercover sells only attire and shoes by the Japanese brand of the same name. A few doors down, past a wholesale beer and soda distributor, the walls of Silly Thing are lined with demure, understated pieces: shoes, sunglasses and leather goods. The boutique is selective, stocking brands like Chapel of Dawn, Alden and Arts & Science.
Undercover: Unit 11, G/F, Block B, Ming Pao Industrial Centre, 18 Ka Yip St., Chai Wan, 2881-8002, www.think-silly.com.
Silly Thing: Unit 8, G/F, Block B, Ming Pao Industrial Centre, 18 Ka Yip St., Chai Wan, 2898-2199, www.think-silly.com.
One of the region’s best-known art book publishers, Asia One has a two-year-old bookstore on the ground floor with Hong Kong’s widest selection of specialty photography volumes. As of May, the company also launched a brand new gallery that’s exceedingly unique in a city full of funky art spaces. Occupying 10 floors of a stairwell, the art is hung along the walls and at the landings.
G/F and 3-13/F, Asia One Tower, 8 Fung Yip St., Chai Wan, 2976-0913, www.aophotobook.com and www.aovertical.com.
Located closest to the MTR station of all of these places, Ma Cuisine is the private kitchen arm of French gourmet food and wine purveyor Monsieur Chatte, which has a shop in Sheung Wan and another in Elements. The restaurant is a homely venue with a long wooden table, an open kitchen and a seating area for smaller groups. Reservations required.
Unit A, 3/F, Unison Industrial Building, 7 Sun Yip St., Chai Wan, 5129-7249, www.monsieurchatte.com.
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SH: So you're the HAL ambassador in the United States. How did you get involved?
DRG: When I was visiting Shanghai a couple of years ago, I turned up at a Groupthink meeting. The topic of the session was sci-fi, so I read an unfinished love sonnet. I swore a lot, and HAL seemed to like it. I loved the atmosphere in the group: open-minded and welcoming. Eventually, the HAL editors asked me to write for them when I went back to the US, and I became a kind of satellite correspondent.
SH: What do your duties include?
DRG: There's a lot of late-night emailing with Bjorn Wahlstrom, HAL's founder and chief editor. We throw ideas around, I keep him up to date with the independent publishing scene in the US. I've met some key players since moving to Portland, like Kevin Sampsell from Powell's Books, who is currently stocking HAL's first book and has been instrumental in its success in America. I work a lot with his independent press Future Tense, and he coaches me through aspects of indie publishing.
SH: Do you have a story in HAL's upcoming book?
DRG: I have two. One is a collaboration with Bjorn. Because of the time difference, he would send me a draft at midnight Shanghai time, and I'd be in my pyjamas with my laptop, a coffee and cigarettes writing in the bathroom, which is the only room in the house where I smoke. It was a long, tough process!
SH: What does America think of HAL?
DRG: For people in the States, Shanghai is not tangible. There are a lot of misconceptions. People ask me questions like "Do you publish Ai Weiwei?" "Are your books all in Chinese?" "What about censorship? Are you watched while you write? Are there even white people in Shanghai?" A lot of people are shocked that there is actually a revolutionary underground publishing happening - that there are people brave enough to forge ahead. Friends of mine in the US who have read HAL's first book have been blown away. Even by American independent publishing standards, it is progressive, dynamic and new. It's not predictable.
SH: Do Portland and Shanghai have much in common?
DRG: They do. Portland is known as the city of "refugees and fugitives", and Shanghai has the same reputation. Portland has the Shanghai Tunnels, which were used to trap sailors and smuggle them onto ships to work as laborers on the route to Shanghai. That's where the word "shanghaied" comes from
SH: You live on a farm in rural Oregon. How does that work?
DRG: I farm geese. I write. It works.
SH: So what's in store for us at the HAL booklaunch?
DRG: We're launching the book with the third installment of SLAMHAI - the poetry slam that HAL has become famous for. I'll be leading a stage performance of my new work "A Brief History of Dan Orange" which is about a man viewed through the eyes of several women. I think you'll like it. It's a lot about panties.
SH: Interesting! And what do you have planned for 2012?
DRG: As well as launching Middle Kingdom Underground in the States as an ebook and in print through Powell's Books, I'm hoping to be in New York City in January to read at the Earshot series.
HAL Publishing's second short story collection, Middle Kingdom Underground, launches Saturday December 3rd as part of the River South Arts Festival. Details here and here.
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