The endless stream of drunken backpackers may have permanently changed the face of Vang Vieng, but the small town located between Vientiane and Luang Prabang is still a real natural wonder, nestled as it is beside the slow-moving Song River and surrounded by stunning mountain scenery. And there are further changes afoot, with the arrival of a new resort for upmarket travelers, Riverside Boutique Resort, Vang Vieng (www.riversidevangvieng.com). Sat next to the famous wooden bridge over the Song, it features 34 rooms and suites decked out with subtle nods to Lao tribal communities, along with a restaurant, bar, swimming pool and meeting room. Opening rates range from US$84-175 (B2,638-5,496). Book 14 days in advance and receive an additional 15% discount.