Fashion

Ekbutr Udomphol

Creative Director, The Only Son

The Only Son is not exactly new; the brand was started back in 2009, selling through selective multi-brand stores such as Opening Ceremony in Japan, Harvey Nichols in Hong Kong and American website ASOS. But it wasn’t until this year that founder Ekbutr shifted his focus back to Thailand, opening a counter at Siam Center’s 979 multi-label store. It’s not only his cutting-edge, unconventional designs that have drawn our attention, we love that The Only Son is a Thai example of a Western-style fashion studio, involving an investor, design team and sales and marketing experts—a model that Vogue Thailand editor Kullawit Laosuksri has said he wants to see more of in Thailand.     
Who are you?
I studied fashion at the Sydney Institute of Technology, worked at Ksubi and Sass & Bide in Sydney, and Imitation of Christ in New York. Danai, the owner of A-list investment company, and I were having a conversation [about launching the brand] for a while until we decided to start The Only Son in 2009. I made connections with a number of select stores and decided to launch the brand’s identity with a fall/winter collection. As this was more suited to cold weather, we decided to start off abroad.   
What’s the style of The Only Son?
Minimalist, innovative and functional. That doesn’t mean form comes before function; they are balanced. I want people to perceive The Only Son as a conceptual-yet-wearable brand. In the end, clothes must be wearable. I hope people can understand the messages I put in each collection—it’s like narrating a tale through pieces of clothes.
What’s it like to be a fashion designer nowadays?
It’s not just about designing clothes to sell, any more. The market is competitive and you need to take more responsibility. The world is borderless and people are more educated about global trends and style. You have to be adaptable and convey the right message. There are still many loyal customers with strong purchasing power; you just need to find them.  
What’s next?
I’m opening a flagship store soon—probably before the end of the year—at a shopping center. I can’t reveal too much yet. While I’m familiar with shopping at street-side shops, like in Sydney and New York, I do understand Thai people’s desire to be in an air-con space. My dream store would be an artsy destination that combines fashion boutique with art gallery.
 

Architecture

Studiomake

Studiomake is a design team comprising seven members, including founders and couple Orapun Sarasalin and David Schafer, who returned to Thailand from the US for work and creative reasons. According to Oraoun, Thailand has a long and interesting architectural history, yet not many people in the design industry have opted to build upon that solid foundation. Their recent designs include several residences in Chiang Mai, their own office in Nonthaburi, as well as the Patana Gallery at Rangsit University, which contains galleries, meeting facilities, a library, workplaces and a rooftop garden. This latter venue also boasts a massive, eye-catching moire pattern that appears to move as you wander around the space.
What are you working on?
A project for the Chinese-Thai Institute of Rangsit University, which will float on the water’s surface. It will get underway in the next few weeks and should be complete next year.
What makes you different?
We take a very close look at our materials to see how we can make use of them beyond their traditional functions. We also take a very hands-on approach, working closely with the construction team, experimenting on our own prototypes, whereas other designers get bogged down in forms and sketches.
What’s your inspiration?
Understanding the value of craftmanship and combining it with the latest technologies.
What’s next?
In the future we’d like to take complete control over our work, bridging the existing gap between design and construction.

Design

Payoon “Yune” Worachananan

Artist and illustrator

Payoon was first recognized as an up-and-coming graphic designer back in 2004, but then disappeared going off to study at Japan’s world-renowned design institute Tama University. While studying for her Master’s and Ph.D., she also designed and co-wrote the popular OK Go Tokyo (2010) guidebook to the Tokyo design scene. Earlier this year, she collaborated with hip local swimwear brand TIMO on a pair of jungle-inspired trunks. Payoon has just finished three art exhibitions in Japan and Korea, but the coming year promises even more exciting developments. First up, there’s a pattern design for a Japanese fashion brand next month (sorry, we can’t reveal the brand) and then there is character design and brand image for Japanese fabric brand AITIM. She also has at least three book projects set for release this year, two of which are Japanese guidebooks for Thais. On top of that, she will put on another art exhibition at the end of this year, too.
What’s your inspiration?
If you stick to one style, you won’t progress. I love to see my work go beyond what I’ve previously done. I’m pleased to create art pieces that look realistic, but I like to go beyond, into the realms of hyper-realism. I’m trying to be an artist and illustrator at the same time. I hope to merge those perfectly one day.
What’s your ideal project?
I would like to work with a small brand. I just want to build something and grow together. If they have a great vision, I can learn from them, too.
What’s next?
I’ve got no plans to base myself in Thailand any time soon, but I will be appearing as a guest at TCDC’s Good Citizen event on Aug 10.

Art

Arin Rungjang

Artist

Arin has actually been around a long, long time, first exhibiting internationally in France during an exchange program in 1988. Since then, he’s exhibited at events like the Sydney and Singapore Biennales and the CEC Artslink in New York during Hurricane Sandy last year. However, his profile rose further after he was chosen as one of two artists to exhibit at the Thai Pavilion at this year’s Venice Biennale. His Golden Teardrop exhibition looked to explore the history of the egg yolk-based Thai dessert known as thong yod through a documentary and sculpture installation, in the process delving into a number of cross-cultural narratives.
What’s your style?
I’m not focused on being too Thai but I do have a Thainess in me which makes me who I am today. I’ve realized that most of the  things we learn as we grow up don’t come from the library or school, but from our experiences with people in society. I love to pick up stories that have been told over and over and use them to create new experiences for my audience. My Golden Teardrop exhibition explores the connections between thong yod and the story of how it traveled here from Portugal via Japan.
Any suggestions for young artists?
Don’t look for funding from private sponsors. Seek it from the government as it has an important role in supporting creativity. To ensure this support continues, we artists must create better and better art.
What’s next?
I have two ongoing projects that delve into Thai history post-WWII, one which might appear at the Asian Art Biennale in Taiwan and another at the Florence Art Biennale at the end of the year.

Social Activism

Tul Pinkaew

Campaign Director, Change Thailand

Working as a journalist for Bangkok Post and Reuters, Tul came to question whether journalism really reflected people’s lives and had the power to make the world a better place. He then started to contribute his communication expertise to NGOs including Save the Children, Oxfam and MTV EXIT. Around 2005, Tul became fascinated with the power of blogs for voicing people’s concerns, from the most practical level to enacting changes from the top. When online petition platform Change.org was looking to extend its presence into Thailand last year, Tul was a natural fit as the country’s campaign director. Since then he has seen Change gain over 250,000 followers in Thailand for various campaigns from protesting against eating shark fins to fighting for a proper green development of Makkasan. The group will hold an event on Sep 7 to mark Change Thailand’s one year of operations, which will double as a workshop on how to stage a successful campaign.

Dance

Jitti Chompee

Dancer/choreographer

Following in the footsteps of acclaimed Thai dancer, director and choreographer Pichet Klunchun, Jitti Chompee is fast making a name for himself for combining contemporary dance with Thai traditional khon performance. He is perhaps best known for his groundbreaking physical performances, often in unusual settings—he has put on various innovative shows at Bed Supperclub, for example—while his dance troupe 18 Monkeys Dance Theatre has already performed overseas in countries such as Morocco and is set to visit Buenos Aires in April next year.  
What’s your inspiration?
I guess one of my most prominent inspirations would be French novelist Jean Genet. Partly it’s because of my focus on homosexual issues but also because he shows what it means to be a real artist. A real artist is born with his talents, they don’t learn it in higher education. Genet was a thief, a prostitute and spent part of his life in prison. But the letter he wrote for his lovers in jail became his beautiful silent film Un Chant d’Amour (A Love Song). He made the film without expecting anyone to cherish it. It just shows true passion drives the best artwork.
Are Thai audiences becoming more receptive to your shows?
Well, more Thai people are attending my shows these days but it’s still pretty low compared to my foreign audience. But it’s a start. As Dreambox director Suwandee Jakravoravudh puts it, things are good as long as we have good audiences. Good audiences means people who really want to come to the show, pay for the tickets and appreciate it. That’s also my preference
What is needed to succeed on an international level?
Performing internationally will never be my goal. If that’s how you create an artwork then it’s no longer about your passion. For me, the purpose of creating a show is different. I want to create art without having a plan of where it or I should end up. So what comes after that always keeps me excited. What’s the measurement of “going inter?” Jean Genet did it just because he was passionate about it. It satisfies you the same no matter where you perform. If someone happens to like your work and asks you to perform outside of Thailand, well then that’s a benefit for you and your country.  

Journalism

Saksith Saiyasombut

Freelance international correspondent

The 26-year-old Thai journalist was raised in Germany and has had a keen interest in news, particularly Thai politics, since he was young. After working as a reporter for a local newspaper in Hamburg, he shifted his focus to his home country and started reporting on Thailand and Southeast Asia. He has since worked for the Asia News Network and in front of the camera for Channel News Asia. But he’s probably best known for his political blog Siam Voices on the Asian Correspondent website, from which he gained a reputation for his sharp insights into the local political scene. Currently doing a course on Southeast Asian studies, he plans to return to Thailand as an international correspondent.
What are the challenges in covering Thai politics?
It’s probably one of the most difficult and challenging stories to cover for an international audience, considering the events of recent years and how multi-layered the issue is—how are you going to explain all that in a few minutes on TV? Another danger is a certain fatigue, since, on the surface, little has changed in the past few years.
What makes a good reporter?
As a journalist, I want to be the first to know what’s happening, who’s behind it and their motivations. I want to know the mechanics behind it in order to then explain and ultimately report on the consequences, its context and the bigger picture—and also to listen to the stories of the people affected by it. I want to use this knowledge to truly engage as a citizen in a democratic society.

MUSIC

Rats Records

2012 was undoubtedly the year of Panda Records. The label’s head honcho, and general music man-about-town, Wanarit Pongprayoon (Pok Stylish Nonsense) had plenty to celebrate, including the surprise success of the label’s thrilling psych trio Chladni Chandi. However, we’re thinking the year ahead could well belong to another group of media/music types (and friends of Pok’s) who are teaming up as the brand new label Rats Records. One of the founders, Anucha “Off“ Ochareon, introduced us to the label with his electro-punk project Dot’s electrifying single “Another Lie,” which shot up the Fat Radio top 40 chart earlier this year. The second artist on the roster is Part Time Musicians, a folk trio who caused a stir with their latest release, “Would You Mind?” featuring Chladni Chandi. Off told us a third artist should be unveiled before the end of the year, while Dot’s debut album should be out by then, too. What really seals the deal for us, though, is the Rat Records’ HQ-cum-rockin’-live-venue Haus20 Design and Dine, which we just named one of the coolest places to catch indie gigs in Bangkok.           

Business

Pardprapa Gunyaviriya

General Manager, Lor Yaowaraj

Tongues started wagging when 70-year-old grocery store Lor Yaowaraj received a bold makeover (complete with decorative bicycle out front) at the turn of the year. Pasprapa Kanyaviriya, 27, is the mastermind behind this change, which looked to modernize the old business without losing its unique charms. Vehemently opposed by his family initially, a year spent explaining his business concept finally won them over. With more than 5,000 categories of products, Lo Yaowaraj isn’t just a wholesale and retail shop, anymore—it’s also become a popular destination for tourists strolling around Bangkok’s famous Chinatown.
With this new-found popularity, Pasprapa is confident that the next step will be to expand this local business regionally.
What’s the store’s concept behind the store?
We aim to represent our surroundings by gathering all the best stuff in Yaowaraj to sell in one place. Regular customers can find the best selection, while tourists can find the perfect souvenirs.
What’s next?
We don’t want to open other branches in Thailand, but we are eyeing new spots in neighboring countries. We dream of opening Lor Yaowaraj in Yangon, Luang Prabang and Hanoi soon.

Food

Thanaruek “Eh” Laoraowirodge

Restaurateur

Eh is the man behind the growing restuarant empire that spans the chic Minibar Royale to the popular Somtum Der and Supanniga Eating Room, among the first in a slew of restuarants focused on serving up authentic Thai flavors in more refined settings. He’s  planning to head to New York, where he aims to take real deal Thai food to the world stage.
What inspired you to open a restaurant in New York?
New York is already known for its excellent culinary scene. What I’m hoping to bring is something exciting that’s still missing, an authentic Thai restaurant with an urban concept. People in New York already have a good perception of Thai food. They are not just familiar with tomyam, but regional dishes, too. Somtum Der is suited to New Yorkers, especially in the area where we will be located, which is in the NYU neighborhood filled with artsy, hip people. Supanniga is more complicated—we need to better understand the market first and work on our ingredients and recipes. It’s long been my intention to present authentic Thai food to the world. We will also try our best to educate customers about Isaan culture, what the food is like and how to eat it.
What are the challenges?
There are limitations regarding produce and many restaurateurs compromise on flavors to suit the foreign palate, but our selling point will be presenting authentic versions of Thai dishes. In Bangkok, 50% of our customers are foreigners and we know they can handle it all, barring the very spiciest. No need to worry, our chef, Kornthanut Thongnum will be very tough. The people of New York will get the closest taste possible to what we eat here.
Where to next after New York?
First, we aim to open more branches in different areas around New York before expanding to other major metropolis like London, Hong Kong and Shanghai. I get a lot of inspiration from traveling and like to connect what I’ve seen elsewhere with my roots. My restaurants are not just about lifestyle, they tell my story as well. We’re not about new trends. We’re here for the long run—10-20 years. We don’t just want to open a restaurant that is really trendy, then close and open another one.

FILM

Nawapol “Ter” Thamrongrattanarit

Director

Having worked on GTH’s Bangkok Traffic Love Story and Top Secret, Ter finally stepped into the spotlight on his own last year with his directorial debut, 36, which has claimed numerous awards, including New Currents at the Busan Film Festival, and is still doing the rounds at many of the world’s top film fests. And we’re expecting even bigger things from Nawapol this year. His second full-length film, Marry is Happy, Marry is Happy [formerly The Year of June], is receiving funding through Venice’s Biennale College-Cinema and will make its premiere at the Venice Film Festival in August before hopefully arriving in Bangkok later this year.
Can you describe the inspiration for your latest movie?
It’s pretty experimental. I’m interested in the current obsession with social networking so I tried to write a script from following newsfeeds on Twitter. It’s meant to be a year in the life of a female Bangkok student as relayed through her Twitter status.
Do you think indie films are more valuable than mainstream movies?
People need to stop judging movies on whether they are indie or mainstream. Indie does not automatically mean cool, nor does mainstream mean bad. You can take valuable insights from all sorts of films; for instance, Thai people’s love of comedies and ghost movies reveals a love of light-relief and superstition.
What’s next?
I’ve already talked to GTH about my next film for which I’ll be both screenwriter and director. We haven’t gone too deep into the details regarding plot or concept, since I’m now obsessing with Marry is Happy, Marry is Happy. The project should start once I bring that film back to screen in Bangkok, which should be in December.
What kind of film would you like to make next?
Well, I’m not entirely sure, but what I’m really interested in right now is the issue of religion and the monkhood in our country. In social media terms, Nern Kham’s story is undoubtedly the hottest topic at the moment. This leads me to question, what are we, as a society, more interested in, cherishing our Buddhist beliefs or preserving status?   
What do you think of the Thai film industry at the moment?
I’m impressed with the Pee Mak Pra Khanong phenomenon. As a filmmaker, I can say that film would not have been easy to produce. The fact it’s made not only B100 million but B500 million is astonishing. For the past two years, we haven’t really seen anything new, but Pee Mak is proof that something different can achieve commercial success, too.

Fashion

Chanokporn “Dream” Sayoungkul

Model/actress

You’ve probably already seen her honey-tanned skin and fierce face in shoots for local fashion magazines, but it’s on the big screen that Chanokporn Sayoungkul (Dream) really caught our attention. After graduating from KMUTT School of Architecture & Design, Dream landed a steady stream of modeling work before securing a role in the Pen-Ek thriller Headshot (2011). She’s now focusing on acting with a part in a telemovie tribute to the King to be broadcast in October where she plays a Burmese girl locked in a jail for 20 years. She’s also got another movie project lined up to start shooting in August.  
Any tips for wannabe models?  
The fashion industry is a fast-paced world. A good model should be disciplined, punctual and ready to work at all times. You should try to learn little details from photographers, stylists and make-up artists, as these can help you improve yourself. Remember, new faces are found every day. Most importantly, be confident and proud of your uniqueness.

Television

Thanaphop “Tor” Leerattanakajorn

Actor

Ten weeks ago, no one knew about Thanaphop “Tor” Leerattanakajorn. But 260,000 hits on Google and more than 70,000 likes on Facebook later, and the 19-year-old is suddenly hot. The young actor has found fame from his starring role in the runaway cable TV smash Hormones, in which he’s cast as Pai, a hot-tempered student who is involved in crime, fights and sexual conquests. The series has quickly become a teen favorite, garnering more than a million views for each episode on YouTube. As for Tor, he’s the new teen heartthrob, appearing in a music video for Getsunova and gracing magazine covers. We haven’t had any official word about his next project, but this kid’s definitely worth keeping an eye on.
 

While their popularity has dimmed substantially (and many have closed down completely), there are still a few of these legendary cookshops around. BK tracks down the best of these to sample their unique flavors and to drink in their special history.

Meng Lee

Located right next to Silpakorn University, this charming restaurant is popular with former students, with lots of their art work adorning the walls. Also known as Meng Lee Na Phra Lan, this old-school institution is perhaps best known for its slightly scary service (to be fair, we’ve sometimes found them to be perfectly pleasant, too). The food is superb, though, so we say put aside any fears and discover why many rank this place their number one cookshop. Try classic dishes like the tomyam kha moo, stir-fried liver and stir-fried kale—dependably divine.
Next to Silpakorn University, Na Phra Lan Rd., Open Mon-Fri 11am-7pm

Florida Hotel Restaurant

Florida has been in operation since 1968 and way back then, they were boasting about their Hainanese cook who had previously worked for King Rama V’s farang chef. Although similar to the other cookshops listed here, this place does have the distinction of being located in the slightly haunted-looking but wonderfully retro Florida Hotel. Still, the food remains top notch with must-tries including the BBQ spare ribs (B235), which have a distinctly Asian taste and are really fall-off-the-bone tender, and the Thai-Chinese dishes like the wonderfully well-balanced nuea pad nammun hoy (beef in oyster sauce, B175).
43 Phayathai Rd., 02-247-0991. BTS Phayathai. Open daily 7am-11:30pm

Chairoj

Like the other venues listed, Chairoj has pedigree—some 70 years under its belt, as you can tell from the pale green walls and vintage wooden furniture. The brief but lip-smacking menu includes the legendary pla krapong tod rad prik (fried seabass with chili and garlic, B80); the fish is fluffy inside yet wonderfully crisp outside, perfectly demonstrating the amazing technique in the kitchen. Also don’t miss the fragrant tomyam (B80) and tender pork steak (B80) just make sure you get there before 7:30pm as they can sometimes close early.
467/25 Phyathai Rd. (next to Phyathai Dental Group), 02-354-4090. BTS Phayathai. Open Mon- Sat 11am-8pm

Silom Restaurant

The closure of the original Silom branch left many customers in shock, but fortunately this canteen-like cookshop is soon-to-open in a new location out at Talingchan. Despite the trek, we’ll definitely be heading out to the place that for 60 years has been serving fusion dishes, long before the term “fusion” was coined in the West. When you get there opt for one of the four recommended specialties: oxtail stew, shrimp salad, pork chops and stir-fried fish maw. Prices start from B100.
7/4 Soi Boromratchachonnanee Soi 59, 087-072-2944

Foo Mui Kee

Set in a narrow, non-descript soi that runs between Surawong and Silom, the open-fronted Foo Mui Kee is a simple yet charming place. It’s filled with character and an almost museum-like air thanks to the upright wooden pews, gorgeous vintage fans and the groups of Chinese aunts and uncles that come here to eat daily. The food is equally authentic. For over 80 years, Foo Mui Kee has been serving up an intriguing blend of well-known Western recipes, cooked with a distinctly Chinese influence. Try the delicious beef fillet salad (B140/280): tender slices of beef on a seemingly dull-looking salad that’s given a delightfully refreshing lift by their traditional homemade lime, sugar and vinegar-laden dressing. Also don’t go without the moreish poo cha (B80/160), a wonderful mix of crab, egg, mince, onions and more grilled in a crab shell.
10-12 Prachum Rd., 02-234-6648. Open daily 11am-9pm

Thong Lee

There are only five tables, covered in garish plastic tablecloths. Drop by on a warm day, and you’ll sweat through the entire meal due to the absence of air-con, and just three ceiling fans swirling overhead. However, despite the humble surroundings, Thong Lee has been feeding devoted crowds for more than 60 years, and has recieved numerous accolades in local and international publications. Every dish (B70-100) is delicious and tastes homemade, just like a Thai-Chinese grandma would cook. Don’t miss the mee krob (crispy noodles with pork and shrimp), Hainanese fried chicken and muu pad nam lieb (stir-fried minced pork with Chinese olives).
64/3, Sukhumvit Soi 20, 02-258-1983, 02-259-4649. Open daily 9am-8pm (closes every third Sun of the month)

1. Guay Tiew Moo (ก๋วยเตี๋ยวหมู)

Good kratiem jeaw (fried garlic) alone can go a long way. But this noodle stall takes it to a whole new level. The noodles here are everything they should be, cooked to perfection—chewy, not too soggy and stewed in the most fragrant kratiem jeaw we’ve tried. The other ingredients are pretty special, too, and not just the fishballs, either; we’re addicted to the tender moo ghon (shredded pork) and tasty entrails. The best bowl (B30) is the haeng (without soup) version. Do call ahead for directions as their soi has no name.
Rama 4 Rd. (next to Tai Tang Duan Rama 4 Junction), 02-249-7316. Open daily 8am-3pm

2. Gai Ping (ไก่ปิ้ง)

Sat on the corner of this soi, Jae Cherry grills up big chunky chicken skewers (B10), marinated in rich spices and cooked to perfection. The golden brown meat is more tender on the inside than any other grilled chicken we’ve tried. It’s pointless trying to stop at just one, while the accompanying dipping sauce is totally delicious with a nice balance of spicy, salty and sour.
Charoenkrung Soi 103/1, 080-595-8449. Open daily 5-7pm.

3. Guay Tiew Pla (ก๋วยเตี๋ยวปลา)

This slightly hard-to-find stall is worth the effort for its must-try fishballs. They’re light yet tasty, delightfully melt-in-the-mouth but not soggy. They’re loaded with fish without being overly pungent and go beautifully with the noodles. Just like other great stalls, be sure to call ahead as they run out very quickly.
Soi Phraya Singhaseni, Rama 4 Rd., 02-215-2165, 086-555-1262. MRT Hua Lamphong. Open daily 7am-3pm

4. Gade Ocha (เกตุโอชา)

It may be out on the edge of Bangkok, but many foodies rank Gade Ocha as one of the best guay tiew nuea (beef noodles, B50) joints in town. There is a great richness and stickiness to their beef broth and the nuea toon is, of course, really tender and flavorful.
200 meters from the beginning of Pattanakarn Soi 53, Open daily 9:30am-1pm

5. Burmese Noodles (ขนมจีนพม่า)

Hidden in the small Burmese community in Phra Khanong, this tiny shophouse is habitually swarmed by Burmese ladies from the neighborhood. At the entrance to Phra Khanong Market, turn left down a small alleyway packed with colorful clothing, and eventually you’ll find yourself in Little Burma. T-shirts, raw betel nuts and all manner of spices are just some of the goods on display. Not too far away is this well-known Burmese eatery, where you’ll be greeted by the smiling face of Dao Giri, the Nepalese-Burmese cook. Her most popular dish among Burmese and Thais alike is mohinga (Burmese cold rice noodles, B35). It’s cheap, tasty and served up in a matter of minutes.
Phra Khanong Market, Sukhumvit Rd. Open daily 8am-5pm

6. Rai Tiem Tan (ไร้เทียมทาน)

One for those with plenty of patience, this noodles (B35) and congee (B30) stall gets their queues confused and orders all mixed up, but really, we think you should invest some time to sample the delicious bowl of pork noodles served here—and you may well find yourself going back. The standout is their pork, which is cooked to be very moist and is served in both noodles and congee—both excellent. The portion is very small, though, so order big from the get-go.
Sri Ayutthaya Rd. (near Phayathai Hospital), 081-622-3153. Open Tue-Sun 6-10pm

7. Jay Yai (เจ๊ใหญ่)

Shining out from the dark street thanks to its fluorescent lighting, Jay Yai does guay jub (Chinese noodles) in both thick and clear broths. Those who like a herbal soup with a great aroma of Chinese star anise should opt for the thick option but, really, both are equally good. The moo krob is insanely delicious, too. It’s crispy and it doesn’t have that burnt aftertaste you sometimes get elsewhere. Trok Nawa, Tanao Rd., 089-226-8577. Open daily 4-9pm

8. Dara Dalay (ดาราดาเล)

Chiang Mai organic farm and homestay Dara Dalay recently opened a small eatery here, and we find ourselves regularly returning for its authentic Northern dishes. Helmed by the friendly auntie who owns the farm, they do a brief list of Northern dishes including kanom jeen nam ngiaw (rice vermicelli with spicy pork and tomato soup, B40) and khao soi (B40). Their very addictive take on the latter dish features a perfectly rich soup with a nice balance of flavors, while the chicken is tender and moist. Almost every dish here is made with organic vegetables grown on the farm. We recommend you check their Facebook page (www.facebook. com/daradalay) for news on when they’ll be serving special treats like hed nueng namprik kha (steamed mushroom with galangal paste). Pichai Market, Pichai Rd., Dusit, 086-378-3837, 089-499-2878. www.daradalay.com. Open Mon-Sun 12-7pm

9. Poh Pia Sod (ปอเปี๊ยะสด)

Everyone seems to be swamping Tang Sui Heng Pochana in Sapan Leung for their haan palo (braised goose) but we are pretty confident about this other contender. The little stall run by an auntie serves up an impressive poh pia sod (rice sheets stuffed with Chinese sausage and tofu), a specialty that is not too easy to find nowadays. Your B35 gets you some very good quality gun chiang (Chinese sausage), while the well-balanced gravy sauce is a classic balance of sweet, sour and salty, just as it’s supposed to be. The prik chee fah (Cayenne pepper) gives good contrast to the dish, too. Perfect for grab-and-go, or have it while feasting on the goose. Be warned, though, on some days she skips making the poh pia sod as she concentrates on selling her desserts.
Rama 4 Rd. (next to Tang Sui Heng). Open daily 8-11pm

10. Chairoj (ไชยโรจน์)

This humble shophouse is a real hidden gem. Chairoj has been up and running for 70 years now, as you can tell from the pale greenish walls and vintage wooden furniture. The highlights of the brief Thai and Chinese menu have to be the pla krapong tod rad prik (fried seabass with chili and garlic, B80), fragrant tomyam (B80) and stewed ox tongue (B80) in Hainanese style, an increasingly rare find.
467/25 Phyathai Rd. (next to Phyathai Dental Group), 02-354-4090. BTS Phayathai. Open Mon- Sat 11am-8pm

11. Lee Nguan (หลีง้วน)

We must admit, we were first drawn to this guay tiew nuea (noodles with beef) shophouse because of Richie, the fat, grumpy-looking bulldog sat out front. Ever since we tried Lee Nguan’s tasty noodles, though, we’ve been returning as often as possible— and not just for Richie. All the right ingredients are here for repeat visits, from the tender stewed beef and light but flavorful soup to the friendly service. If a bowl (B30) doesn’t fill you up, we recommend strolling a bit further to Phaholyothin Rd. and trying the yen ta fo noodles at Meng Pochana (02-279-2004, 085-321-8474. Open daily 9:30am-5pm), where the fishballs are just bursting with flavor.
7312 Saliratthawiphak Rd. (near Saphan Kwai Junction), 087-900-9600. Open daily 8am-3pm

12. Hia Waan (เฮียหวาน)

Located on the busy Chan Road, this humble khao tom pla (soft-boiled rice with fish, B90) joint might not be a centuries-old institution but who cares, once you try their fresh seafood. The fish, shrimp and squid all seem to come from another planet they’re so huge, meaning you certainly get your money’s worth. As for their khao tom, the broth is well-balanced, slightly peppery and without any hint of fishiness.
Chan Rd. (in front of Soi 32/2), 02-211-0829. Open daily 5pm-midnight

13. Guay Tiew Ruea (ก๋วยเตี๋ยวเรือ)

Legend has it that the way guay tiew ruea (boat noodles) are sometimes mixed with blood was started by the Chinese who would store thier beef on a sieve covered with ice. The blood would drip down into a pan and they would use it to make the soup more flavorful. We, of course, don’t know what the original version tasted like, but we do know that this shophouse serves up a pretty mean bowl. Forget the famous guay tiew ruea Rangsit, and come here for truly deepflavored broth with tender pork (B40).
Nanglinchee Soi 5, 084-159-7393, 082-687- 7966. Open daily 7am-2pm

14. Salim Porn Charoen (สลิ่มพรเจริญ)

Almost everything at Salim Porn Charoen is homemade. Featuring fragrant candle-scented coconut milk, the maprao kati (coconut, B30) is rich, almost sinfully so, while the smooth, silky texture will have you calling for seconds. Of course, you can choose your own flavor by adding the likes of salim (grass noodles) and tubtim krob (water chestnut) though disappointingly, the latter is not as good as it used to be.
Soi Sampeng (200 meters from the beginning of the soi), Chakkaphet Rd. Open daily 9am-4pm

15. Bua Loy Kai Wan (บัวลอยไข่หวาน)

This place takes their bua loy (taro balls in coconut milk) pretty seriously. While the very popular bua loy joint in Phaholyothin is now closed, this one is also a strong contender. The colorful array of little balls are a really chewy delight served with fresh coconut milk that’s not too sweet, fragrant and perfectly thick and rich.
Charoennakorn Rd. (Klongsan Pier), 081-697- 5971. Open daily 1-7:30pm

16. Somtam Khaya (ส้มตำขยะ)

Known as Somtam Khaya for its location, on the quieter side of Thammasat University Tha Prachan Campus, this stall may be small but it does a roaring trade. Despite its somewhat dodgy, burnt appearance, its fried chicken is a real treat. Marinated with spices and coated in a flavorful flour, the outside is nice and crispy while the flesh is simply succulent. If you pop in after noon, don’t expect any chicken though, as most will have been snapped up already.
16 August Rd. (right at the Phra Arthit entrance of Thammasat University). Open Mon-Fri 10am- 3pm

17. Lim Lao Sa (ลิ้มเล่าซา)

Lim Lao Sa occupies an old and charming space down a small alley. Open for more than 50 years, it’s now helmed by the second generation who are sticking to their family’s Teochew recipes. Everything’s homemade, from the giew pla (fish dumplings) to the fishballs in the guay tiew pla (noodles with fish, B60). The flavor is marvelous, as is the place: seat yourself by the pastel-framed windows as you contemplate your order of bamee (egg noodles), which features a sour sauce that gives the dish a welcome edge. The sen yai (rice noodles) is pretty unique, too—much lighter than you get at most places, so you needn’t feel guilty about ordering a second bowl. Do call ahead as opening times can vary and don’t mistake them for the other stalls around Bangkok boasting of using the same recipe under the Lim Lao Sa name.
Songwad Rd., 083-138-3636. Open daily 5:30- 10pm

18. Kanom Bueng Boran (ขนมเบื้องโบราณ)

Run by a grandma and her daughter, this stall is a shrine to the ever-comforting dessert that is kanom bueng (Thai pancake with stuffing). Here, you can be sure your B20 gets you a resolutely homemade treat: the foy thong (sweetened egg yolk) is not too sweet, while the coconut tastes fresh with a wonderfully fluffy texture. The pancake itself is thin, crispy and addictive. It’s fair to say that the opening times here can be pretty inconsistent—your safest bet for getting a delicious dessert is late afternoon (3pm-6pm).
In front of Ladprao Soi 33.

19. Rad Naa (ราดหน้า)

There’s nothing too revolutionary here, just one big, super-satisfying bowl of rad naa (noodles in gravy). The gravy is flavorful, perfectly balanced, while the pork is well seasoned and juicy. Just be warned that the sen yai (rice noodles) usually runs out around noon.
Soi Saladaeng, Silom Rd., 081-931-3380. Open daily 10am-3pm

1.) Au Bon Pain (B40)

This croissant looks like a sad crab—and tastes just as bad, like butter gone stale. Insides, absent of layers, are more like a fluffy brioche in texture.
Verdict: Pas Bon!
Try www.aubonpainthailand.com.

2.) Yamazaki (B16)

Tastes undercooked and has an acrid smell. Plus, it’s dry and bland, as if it was baked the day before.
Verdict: Second only to Au Bon Pain in the yuck stakes.

3.) Foodland (B17.50)

At first glance, this pastry might look slightly overcooked, but has a nice buttery smell, flaky texture and tears apart wonderfully. Be warned, though, it goes stale in a matter of hours.
Verdict: A proper croissant!
Try www.foodland.co.th

4.) Lenôtre (B50)

Going by looks alone, this is the perfect puffed and layered croissant. It has a rich, buttery smell and a nice sheen, but the bland taste doesn’t live up to appearances.
Verdict:  Looks can be deceiving.
Try Langsuan Rd., 02-250-7050. www.lenotrethailand.com

5.) Big C Extra (B12)

Looking a tad too dark, the croissant from Big C Extra Supermarket somehow nails the balance between a crispy exterior and a soft chewy layered interior. There’s just the right amount of butter, too.
Verdict: Now, this was a surprise. This is our favorite!

Try Big C Extra or www.bigc.co.th

6.) Tops (B12)

We’ve noticed that different branches of Tops Supermarket have wildly varying levels of quality. The one we tried from Silom looked nothing like a croissant and tasted nothing like one either—overly-doughy, soggy and reeking of cheap butter.
Verdict: No crispy outer, no layers—this is one funny-looking limp pastry.
Try www.tops.co.th

7.) LB Patisserie (B40)

Authentic French restaurant Le Beaulieu has its own bakery, of which their croissant is a highlight. Pleasantly buttery and nutty in flavor, the flour used is evidently of high quality.
Verdict: A solid croissant but it still loses to a couple of supermarket offerings (Big C, Foodland).
G/F, Athenee Tower, 63 Wireless Rd., 02-168-8222. www.le-beaulieu.com