Tae Lao Jin Seng Winner!

Founded in: 1987
Yielding a creamy, thick custard-like filling, this kanom pia almost tastes like fudge encased in a smooth, peeling pastry—just far less sweet. Though the dough is slightly tougher than that of Huan Ha Seng, the filling is enough to make you overlook this tiny flaw completely.
Verdict: Fill us up.
927-929 Chareonkrung Rd., 02-236-4641. Open daily 9am-7.30pm.

Huan Ha Seng

Founded in: 1914
The smooth, silky filling has bits of watermelon and lotus seeds speckled throughout, which give every bite a satisfying crunch, offset beautifully by flaky, soft pastry. Though it wins on the crust front, its sweeter, less creamy filling is no match for Tae Lao Jin Seng’s.
Verdict: Upper crust.
514 Phlapphla Chai Rd., 02-224-9767. Open daily 7am-7pm.

Ure Leng Heng Yuck!

Founded in: 1930
This sickly sweet nugget of bean paste wrapped in a dry pastry explains why many people choose to take their kanom pia with a cup of tea—to prevent themselves from choking to death. Taking “flaky” to the extreme, the pastry crumbles off at the slightest touch.
Verdict: A total flake.
11-13 Plang Nam Rd., 02-222-0369. Open daily 8am-6.30pm.

Hua Seng Hong

Founded in: 1956
The unique spiral shape of this bite-sized ball of flaky, white pastry creates a dry and chalky layered effect, while its ultra-thickness overpowers the meager bean paste filling. Credit where credit is due, the sesame seeds sprinkled on top do look rather beautiful.
Verdict: It’s what’s inside that counts.
371, 373 Yaowarat Rd., 02-222-7053. Open daily 7am-9pm.

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