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The sois and alleys around St. Louis Hospital on Sathorn Tai Road are a well-known haven for street food, but if you venture further down Sathorn Soi 11 you’ll find even more rewarding stalls and shop-house restaurants. To get there take the BTS to Surasak station. From either in front of Mode Sathorn Hotel or the corner of Sathorn Soi 11, you can catch a red songtaew (converted pickup with benches) which will take you all the way down Soi 11 to the adjoining St. Louis Soi 3 for just B7. Here are some of the highlights to be found there.
Around for more than 50 years, this spot sells some of the best sukiyaki in town. Here, you can be guaranteed a well-seasoned soup, succulent sauce and juicy meats. Odeng now only offers take-home suki sets (B250-300), which comprise soup, eggs, suki sauce, plentiful vegetables and your choice of meat (pork, chicken, shrimp or squid).
125 Sathorn Soi 11, opposite Assumption College Primary Section, 02-676-2552. Open daily 11am-8pm
2.) Tee Yai Muay Lek Patong Koh
This little food cart seemingly always has hot-out-of-the-wok pa tong koh (Chinese doughnut). Both the salty and sweet options start at just B3 each. If you’re particularly famished, order the palm-size ones at B5. They tick all the boxes—crispy and airy yet very soft inside, and not at all greasy. Their hot soy milk (B8-10) is a perfect match, too.
Chan Soi 18/7, opposite Top Charoen Optical, 081-422-5060, 086-718-5868. Open daily 3:30-10:30pm (closed every other Monday)
3.) Lod Chong Singapore Phichit
The cart sells pastel green lod chong (cendol, B20), aka lod chong Singapore. We like that it’s not too chewy, while the fresh coconut milk is not overly creamy or sweet, making for a refreshing cup. They also have other Thai icy treats such as look tarn loy kaew (toddypalm in syrup and ice), tub tim krob (water chestnut in syrup) and chao guay (grass jelly). Better come early as they usually sell out before closing time.
4.) Itim Kai Kang
It’s not easy to find a good itim kai kang (frozen egg ice cream) these days. The fun begins from the time the lady spreads an egg yolk over her creamy coconut milk ice cream. Once it sets, you’ll have a rich, cheese-like treat. While you can opt for a variety of toppings, we prefer the straight option. Pro tip: if you drop by late, bring some eggs because the shop often runs out. Ice-cream is B15 or B25 with egg.
Chan Soi 18/7, in front of SCB. Open daily 3-7pm
5.) Yum Jae Ouan (by Or)
This much-hyped cart sells a variety of Thai spicy salads (B80-150). Just pick your favorite combination of ingredients, level of spiciness and sourness, or go with the classics like yum sam grob (crispy spicy salad, B100), pla goong (shrimp spicy salad with lemongrass, B150), yum pla (fish with spicy dressing, B120). Prices are based on the ingredients you choose.
Chan Soi 18/7, next to Pueng Tao Gong St.Louis shrine, 083-838-3639. Open Tue-Sun 4.30-9pm
6.) Kitti Guayteaw Ped
Open for almost 40 years, this restaurant is now helmed by second-generation owners who ensure it’s still a must-visit in this area. While the name would suggest you order guayteaw ped (duck noodle, B50), we recommend the rice topped with chunky and juicy braised duck (B40)—super-aromatic. Don’t forget to order duck entrails (from B70) as your side dish.
152 Chan Soi 18/7, 084-016-7844. Open daily 8am-4:30pm. www.fb.com/TheDuckNoodle
7.) Salapao Shanghai
The bao buns at Ratchawong Pier have been a Yaowarat staple for more than 50 years. This lesser known branch steams up the same fresh bao with various fillings (all B15/piece) as well as shumai (pork and shrimp, B50/10pieces). We particularly like the mung bean and black bean options.
306 Chan Soi 18/7, near Yum Jae Ouan (by Or), 081-934-4464. Open daily 6am-6pm
A few steps from Itim Kai Kang you’ll see people gathering around a charcoal grill. The pork satay (B6/stick) here is mildly flavored with light charcoal notes. Order it with some bread (B5/slice), peanut sauce and arjard (cucumber, shallot and chili pepper in vinegar syrup). While waiting, you can visit the Pueng Tao Gong St. Louis shrine opposite.
Chan Soi 18/7, in front of SCB, 089-794-1246. Open daily 4-7pm