From its al fresco perch atop The Nai Harn hotel’s Rock Salt Restaurant, Prime deals in fine-dining European flavors in a hopelessly romantic setting overlooking Nai Harn Beach.

Rustic wood tables with an exclusive 12 seats benefit from a light sea breeze, with upbeat tropical house music playing softly enough that the lapping waves of the Andaman dominate the soundtrack.

Naked flames and a charcoal grill light up the open-air kitchen, where executive chef Mark Jones (formerly of Reflexions at Bangkok’s Plaza Athenee) slaves over infallibly juicy dry-aged wagyu flank steaks (B1,700) that are a fierce rival for the pricier wagyu rib-eye (B2,500).

Bursting with umami from smoked olive oil, porcini powder, truffle and tangy Parmesan crackling, the Angus fillet tartare (B700) will be burned into your memory, alongside the rich discs of Jerusalem artichoke and salty samphire of the fresh gilt-head seabream (B1,650).

The lightly cured and cold-smoked Hebridean salmon (B775) gets crunch from a raw fennel salad and Granny Smith apple, with British hints of dill and lemon interjected by a spicy Japanese hit of fresh root wasabi mayonnaise.

Finish on a sweet note with the creamy coconut panna cotta with mixed berry compote or a sinful triple chocolate brownie sundae (both B395), with layers of dulce de leche, chocolate sablé, Chantilly cream and vanilla ice cream.

Can’t choose? You can request a tailored degustation menu, with each course equating to a half-dish. Just be sure to call ahead, as the weather can affect opening due to the outdoor setting.

A wine list curated by renowned wine critic, James Suckling, charts Chilean Lapostolle Cuvée Alexandre Chardonnay 2015 (B650/glass; B2,600/bottle), extravagant red French Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan 2010 (B2,500/12,500) and much, much more.

23/3 Moo 1, Vises Rd., Rawai, Phuket, 076-380-200