Fans of Kangkao, the bolthole behind Brown Sugar in the Old Town known for its no-pretenses vibe and natural wine, might have noticed a new pop-up appearing on its Instagram feed lately. Here by Hand, run by chef Wongsakorn “Pap” Amorncharoenchai, turns the secluded wine bar into an intimate omakase experience every Thu-Sun from 1-6pm (by reservation only Thu-Fri; last order 4:30pm all nights).

 

Pap, who formerly worked at Upstairs at Mikkeller and was part of the opening team at Kangkao, has recently begun been hosting pop-ups and private meals. At the Here by Hand pop-up at Kangkao, he’s turning out sushi-inspired tasting menus (B600/six courses) mainly featuring fresh Thai fish and produce, as well as a small a la carte menu. On the former, you might get Surat Thani oysters on sweet corn with chestnuts, Thai shima aji proscuitto with pickled star fruit, and salmon with fermented black beans and kaffir lime zest. On the latter, you’ll find everything from oysters and razor clam chirashi (raw fish bowls with rice; B450) to soy-braised salmon with pickled bamboo shoots (B300) to chickpea and black olive tapenade with pea shoots (B150). Every Sun, Pap and Kangkao offer a 12-course dinner paired with three natural wines as well (reservations required).

 

The pop-up is ongoing, with no end date set. Email [email protected] or send a direct message to @here_by_hand on Instagram for bookings or more information.

 

Pap is also offering private dining at his home on Petchaburi Road, available to groups of four, six or eight every Mon-Wed (from B3,000; reservations must be made two weeks in advance). Contact @here_by_hand on Instagram or email the above address for more information.

 

The wine bar often hosts other pop-ups and special events as well. For example, they’ve recently put together a monthly wine club (minimum two-month commitment), offering a curated selection of low-intervention, natural wines. Contact [email protected] for more information.