The buzz: From Inndee to Jharokha, Indian fine dining has gotten a big boost in recent years—in particular coastal flavors that Bangkok just loves at places like Jhol. Now, Nila is the new kid on the block, found at the plush Amari Bangkok, and with the talents of Chef Bharath S Bhat.

 

The vibe: The busy lobby of the Amari takes you up to the coloful, interior of Nila on the 5th floor, boasting an early 20th century vibe of colorful windows and wood interior touches. You’re led past a well-appointed and captivating bar and by private rooms to the main dining area, where you can stare out over Phetchaburi Road. 

 

The food: The tasting menu here is coastal with a special emphasis on Goan food, the west coast tourist haven famous for its use of seafood, coconuts, and spice. First up to set the tone for the seaside feast is the fruit bhel, a single bite of tamarind and mint chutney with lime and puffed rice, an easy, memorable bite. Then comes the burnt garlic and tomato saar; it’s quite a peppery prawn soup with slow caramelized garlic, prepared in a flashy, table-side contraption. Following the peri-peri jheenga (flame-grilled Goan-style marinated prawns) is the kasundi murgh, and this one is a bit of a change in gears; trading the spices for smooth, savory tastes, this dish features a bengali mustard tempered chicken with a masala cheese gratin and avocado riata—one of the most creative dishes on the menu. After a banana cutlet and Thalassery pepper lemon sorbet as a palette cleanser, the meal moves onto the more hearty dishes, including the lobster ghee roast featuring some delectable red chili sauce and fresh kallapam. The famed fish dishes of the Indian coast shine with the snapper fillet with fried shallots (meen pollichattu); a bit on the spicy side, the spices are ground into the fish and it has a pleasing firm texture inside the banana leaf. A New Zealand Kolkata-style is followed by the final dish on the mains, the Hydrabadi dum biryani. What’s great about this dish is not just the slow-baked chicken but the long-grain rice. If you weren’t filled up before, this dish will finish you off. But save room coconut rasmalai tres leches which will bring your meal to a close. 

 

The drinks: The bar is stocked to be sure, but check out the wine list to pair with these dishes, and remember to plan for fish and deep, spicy flavors. Bottles start at B1,100. 

 

Why we’d come back: The non-nonsense approach to classic dishes for a tasting menu is not a new idea, but it’s certainly a favorite. Also, we're keen for a shot at their cocktails.