The vibe: You enter a sleek, carefully appointed dining area, with a sort of bright south Indian feel that leans to tropical chic—the intimate lighting turning the white walls gold. Part of the appeal of Jhol is that it’s a relaxed atmosphere. The food is serious, but that doesn’t mean you have to be. There’s a map on the wall of the Indian subcontinent; pay attention because you’re about to take a ride. 

 

The food: The new “Culinary Journey” tasting menu (B1,999) isn’t just referring to your palette. It’s a journey around the 7,516 kilometers of India’s coastline taking inspiration from Gujarat to Goa. The brainchild of chef the accomplished Hari Nayak, the new menu kicks off with a “prelude” featuring a crab pachadi with pineapple and caviar, beet chop and a delectable pani puri with a twist of avocado and passionfruit. Next up comes the Berhampur fried chicken, a dish that’s more complicated inside than out, with apple fennel slaw and a (quite) spicy potato dip, followed by the Gongura ghee roast mamsam with Minburi lamb. One of the main takeaways—because you’re tasting it for longer than you’d expect—is the Calamansi sorbet, a limoncello topped with cardamom pods; you’ll be getting hints of that cardamom well into your next dish. After the herb-rich steamed fish in banana leaf (Patrani Machi), you move on to your main, or as they call it, the feast. Of the three options, we recommend the South Indian Alleppey fish curry—which frankly comes as a surprise as both the Coorgi Pandi curry and lamb chop are phenomenal. 

 

The drinks: In addition to their wine list, don’t forget to check out this spot’s signature cocktails. The Indian Porn Star is vanilla vodka, Amaretto, passionfruit, yuzu foam, and cardamom candy floss. The favorite was the OTT but simple Macha, Where Are You Da with Amrut single malt, butterscotch, and honey ginger cordial rimmed with chocolate, peanuts, and gold flake.

 

Why we’d come back: It’s Jhol—that’s why you go back. If not to work through the rest of their cocktails, there’s a whole a la carte menu waiting to be devoured. There are few places in Bangkok that can provide you with such dining value, and you’ll find even fewer places with regulars who are as passionate.