We've been seeing a lot of Saturday brunches popping up lately, and I'm all for the idea of decadently lazing away both days of your weekend. Hence, I'm not so much surprised by the fact that Four Seasons is doing a Saturday buffet (they're pointedly not calling it a brunch), as much as I am blown away by how good it was.

I've had just about every brunch in town, and I'm utterly bored with them. But somehow, I never tried the Four Season's, usually touted as the city's best. Judging by the Saturday buffet, that's probably true. Not that I'm planning to find out. This Saturday buffet is exactly what I need.

First, it's B1,150. The Four Seasons brunch is B2,450. So yeah, on a Sunday you get the foie gras station and all, but this is precisely the kind of stuff I'm fed up with. What I love about the Four Season's Saturday buffet is the simple things. An amazing couscous, a wonderful provencale tomato tart, an aged, un-pasteurized Camembert, a choux-fleur gratin--all this stuff reminds me of a Sunday in France, where (sorry to disappoint you) we very rarely eat foie gras or flip crepes suzette. I can also guarantee you that the crispy little tarts and the perfectly executed stews and the well-seasoned beef tartare are precisely what the hotels don't do on their brunch spreads--or don't do well.

The only downside? This Saturday buffet only comes with one glass of white sangria, so it's not very boozy unless you're ready to pony up. Available every Sat, noon-2:30pm at Madison, G/F.