Thai ingredients get the star treatment.
Adding to the latest string of restaurant re-openings, Thonglor’s Canvas is back with an all-new menu that promises to take you on a colorful journey through Thailand’s vast ecosystem.
Canvas is known for its devotion to local ingredients yet happily strays outside Thai flavor definitions thanks to Texas-hailing chef Riley Sanders, who manages to continually present locally sourced and seasonally focused produce with fine-dining flair. His latest 18-course menu (B4,500) challenges you to throw all your inhibitions and expectations out the window as you feast on intricate, abstract odes to Thailand’s bounty of ingredients.
The confit sturgeon, sourced from Hua Hin, is served with tiny, rare hausa potatoes, which are harvested just once every year in southern Thailand. These are served fried to a crisp and in a creamy emulsion paired with buttermilk and green peppercorn, and then topped with crispy chakram (seepweed), sea grapes and preserved taling pling (sour bilimbi fruit). The dry-aged smoked duck breast, sourced from Khao Yai, is served with Uttaradit pineapple that has been slow-cooked for weeks, a la black garlic, with aromatics like star anise, soy, long pepper and a mountain pepper that’s similar to mah kwan but with an aroma like lemongrass. This deeply flavorful fruit and the tender duck are paired with a rich, spiced jus made from duck bones. Sweets like perfectly creamy purple yam ice cream with lemon basil, as well as snake fruit sorbet topped with honey from Chantaburi and osmanthus shaved ice, offer a refreshing end to a mind-opening meal.
“Lost husband” black sticky rice from Petchabun, hearty bread made from red rice from Surin, blood cockles with beetroot and stink beans, eel with perilla and a local spice found in the North called malaep, wild almond, ya dong-soaked green papaya—the ingredient list reads like a scientific entry into the encyclopedia. On a wall to the side of the open kitchen, you’ll find exactly where these goods are coming from, and that might change your perception of what can be accomplished with local ingredients.
The drinks pairing (B2,900), curated by general manager Roberto Cini Mencacci, is a madcap adventure including clever choices like Nara Liqueur, a refreshing, creamy yogurt sake; the cedar-like yet fruity Tsantali Greca Terra Retsina NV from Peloponnese, Greece; and the Josko Gravner Ribolla Gialla 2017 from Italy, which is served in its own Gravner glass.
Canvas has also teamed up with local artist Fern Damrongwattanapokin, who has painted her own version of each dish. These paintings are presented in the menu card, so you can follow the visual journey from start to finish as well.
113/9-10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 099-614-1158