Paying your respects in the Old Town this month? Don’t miss the time-honored shop-house eats at foodie favorite Dinsor Road.
Ta Chai Sukhothai Noodles
Hidden down a small alley for 22 years, Ta Chai still gets talked about all the time thanks to the divine broth and moreish noodles of Wichai Paisarn’s Sukhothai-style bamee. The tom yum bamee haeng (dry egg noodles flavored with tom yum, B40) comes chock-full of char-grilled pork neck and yardlong beans cut into three different shapes for an assault of texture and freshness. The pungent garnishes of coriander and spring onions are enhanced by a particularly aromatic and sweet palm sugar. It’s also an early bird’s favorite, opening at 6am every day.
78/1 Trok Nawa, Bamrung Mueang Rd., 081-564-1497. Open daily 6am-2pm
After first opening on Samsen Road in 1988, Krua Apsorn has run rampant with six branches across Bangkok. This always-packed spot was the second to open, and the growing empire has done nothing to drag down the quality of its curries (made from scratch every time) and kai foo puu (thick omelet with crab meat, B100)—such a big star that every table orders it. You’re also well advised to call ahead and pre-order the yellow curry with lotus shoot (B130), whose simple, garnish-free appearance hides a tanginess and herbal flavor that makes it one of the best in town. Our other top tip: the stir-fried blue crab meat with yellow chili (B450). Closed on Oct 25-27.
169 Dinsor Rd., 02-685-4531, 080-550-0310. Open Mon-Sat 10:30am-8pm
Sor Nah Wang
Sitting just opposite the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration offices, this dwarf of a shop-house turns out a sen mee pad krached talay (flat rice noodles stir-fried with seafood, B100) that sends Bangkok street-food aficionados crazy. After 15 years working her wok, the owner has achieved an extreme smokiness that can also be tasted in the suki haeng (stir-fried glass noodles, B100) with fermented tofu sauce. The seafood is also of top quality, while the water mimosa—young sprigs only—add to the freshness. Also try the tom yum moo deng nam sai kai jiaw (B200)—a spicy soup featuring jumbo minced pork balls and fried egg.
156/2 Dinsor Rd., 02-622-1525, 081-497-7804. Open Thu-Tue 10am-10:30pm
Nai Ouan Yentafo
This place has since spawned mall versions at Eathai Central Embassy and the EmQuartier food court. But the Dinsor Road shop-house remains the main hub for whipping up its signature ba teng (braised pork belly in sweet soy sauce, B50) to send out to other branches. The dish comes served in a bowl filled with generous amounts of bouncy proteins: pork balls, shrimp balls and fish balls. Every year during Jay Festival, they serve a vegan yentafo with a shiitake-based broth and fried taro toppings (B50-60).
41 Trok Nawa, Dinsor Rd., 02-222-9701. Open daily 9am-9pm (closed last Sunday of the month)
Mit Ko Yuan
The oldest restaurant on the road opened roughly 75 years ago—though even the current owner has lost count. Long-known for its wonderfully tangy tom yum (our favorite: with button mushrooms, B90), the restaurant also specializes in Western-style Chinese recipes. The current owner claims his grandfather was given these by former prime minister Pridi Banomyong while running an army-frequented restaurant in Ayutthaya. Try the ox tongue stew (B90), which has added Chinese herbs like star anise, as well as meat braised for 4-5 hours. The moo krob (deep-fried pork belly, B90) is also excellent. Closed on Oct 18-20).
186 Dinsor Rd., 086-722-6147. Open Mon-Fri 11am-2pm, 4pm-9:30pm; Sat-Sun 4-10pm
Only milk from Saraburi and Ayutthaya makes it onto the menu of this “uncles’-favorite” tea shop. Mont Nomsod has been serving its buttery, two-inch thick slices of white toast since 1964, and now has three branches in Bangkok as well as one in Chiang Mai. Order yours with the decadently sweet sang kaya (egg custard, B20/slice). Closed on Oct 23-29.
160/1-3 Dinsor Rd., 02-224-1147. Open daily 2-11pm
Few of Bangkok’s ubiquitous roast duck restaurants can equal the flavor of Tian Song’s succulent flesh infused for 4-5 hours in palo (Chinese five spice). Using only three-kilo birds marinated with a mix of Chinese liquor and palo spices for 4-5 hours, the 53-year-old eatery serves its meat with gravy and sweet black soy sauce over rice for just B40. You can also order a half or whole duck (B160/320) for sharing with a rice bowl, and crispy pork (B40).
168-172 Dinsor Rd., 02-224-4554. Open daily 8am-8:30pm
Another serious roasted poultry specialist, Nan Fah makes its honey-roasted goose the Hong Kong way, meaning extra crispy skin and super-moist meat. Try it with rice (B70-90) or order the whole bird for B700. Braised duck with pickled lime (B80) or noodles with roasted duck (B60) are also on the menu.
164 Dinsor Rd., 02-224-1180. Open daily 7am-8pm