There’s much more to beef than a slab of steak. Here, we revisit some of our favorite dishes  offering red meat in a variety of styles.

Côte de Boeuf

 
Also known as the tomahawk, this is arguably the king of steaks—and the price tags reflect it. Head to Attico (28/F, Radisson Blu, 27 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-302-3333), where Dario Busnelli grills 1.3kg of Australian wagyu tomahawk (B3,990) to medium-rare fat-melting perfection. Served with roast potatoes, grilled vegetables and a truffle-infused red wine shallot reduction, this is a dish fit for a party of four. Offering a more Japanese option, Fillets (3/F, Portico, 31 Lang Suan Rd., 02-652-2607) does a gargantuan 1.05kg M6 Australian Darling Downs wagyu tomahawk (B4,200), served with an assortment of roasted carrots, silky mash and different sauces, such as the Thai favorite jaew. Lately we’ve noticed a lot of KU beef on menus across town. Raised by the Kasetsart University cooperative, this newer breed, though perhaps a little chewy, is downright flavorful. Our favorite Neopolitan pizzeria Peppina (27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-119-7677) serves a massive char-grilled 1.5kg chunk of this local favorite at an affordable B2,500.

Pad Krapao

 
We never tire of this Thai street food classic, but we are open to elevated versions, using more premium cuts of beef. The Volcanic Beef (B1,500), Osha’s (99 Witthayu (Wireless) Rd., 02-256-6555) high-end rendition of the dish, uses marbled Wagyu for a luxurious mouth-feel. Thanintorn Chantrawan (the man to beat on Iron Chef) also uses tree basil leaf, stir-frying it with some chilies, oyster sauce and garlic. The dish is served with savory confit egg yolk in a hot clay bowl—one memorable pad krapao experience. 

Something Raw

 
Steak tartare is not for everyone, but raw beef offerings can provide another dimension of satisfaction when seasoned and served correctly. At Savelberg (G/F, Oriental Residence, 110 Wireless Rd., 02-252-8001), the Angus beef steak tartare (B1,250) is presented like a little garden, with capers, piccalilli, caramelized onion and egg yolk providing splashes of color. These elements provide a clean-yet-complex pepperiness to the already flavorful Australian Angus. If you want more straightforward joy, with a citrusy twist, make your way to The Capital (Empire Tower/F, 3, Narathiwas Rd., 02-286-9548). The “Capital” beef tartare (B490), though not as elaborately presented, delivers a well-balanced combination of wagyu, egg yolk and the chef’s own smoky chipotle sauce, a burst of flavor and freshness in every bite. 

Slow-Braised

 
There are few things as tantalizing as a tough cut of beef, cooked so slowly under low heat that it becomes fork tender. For some smoky barbecue goodness, visit the city’s newest Mexican joint, Mejico (see New Tables, below), where they slowly braise an Australian Angus short rib (B695) for a total of six hours in their own smoky chipotle marinade. The result is a flavorful piece of beef, coated in a thick, smoky gastrique, which literally melts in your mouth. If you want a more refined touch, head over to J’aime (U Sathorn Bangkok, 105/1 Soi Ngam Duphli, Sathorn Rd., 02-119-4888) for the boeuf a la bourguignon (B1,550). Don’t expect butter-like texture, though. Amerigo Sesti slowly cooks his beef cheeks for long hours but still lets them retain some toughness. Served with a robust red wine sauce, cut with some marinated onions and coriander, this is a must-try for Francophiles.

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