Back in the old days, kitchens were dark, mysterious places. Then came the now ubiquitous open kitchen. 2013, it seems, will be the year of the chef’s table in Bangkok. Chef’s tables allow diners to get even closer to the action, throw the menu out the window, and surrender their entire dinner into the chef’s able hands. The setup is usually a private dining room hosting six to 12 people, and either a small open kitchen or at least some kind of preparation table where the chef can add some final flourishes to your dishes before serving. The concept is at its most extreme at Water Library Thonglor, which is a single bar seating a maximum of 8 diners where diners starts at 7:30pm on the dot, and there is no menu. But you can now also find chef’s tables at other reputable restaurants, such as Smith, Le Beaulieu and Sala Rim Nam.

At French institution Le Beaulieu, Chef Herve Frerard explains “the idea of our chef’s table is very much in line with the philosophy we are developing at the restaurant, which we call ‘made to be shared, convivial dining.’” Beyond the opportunity to get up close and personal with diners, Smith chefs Peter Pitakwong and Ian Kittichai see these chef’s tables as a kind of experimental playground. Pitakwong says, “Basically, we’ve been traveling and taking inspiration from around the world and then incorporating them in our plates. I see [the chef’s table] as something that makes us keep thinking forward. It’s an opportunity to cook away from Smith’s regular menu. Some market ingredients, like the sea urchin, can’t be on the menu. So this is an opportunity for us to serve this kind of food.”

Frerard, too, sees the flexibility of the chef’s table as key to his philosophy, which is based on ingredients of the day, depending on what tempts him at the market. For that concept to work, diners at chef’s tables are expected to let the chef take control. You may not even be presented with a menu. In exchange for your loss of control (and a hefty price tag) expect rewards like fresh Brittany razor clams cooked in Café de Paris sauce or some local produce from the Royal Project that just happened to be harvested that morning.

At Sala Rim Naam, celebrity chef Vichit Mukura has been operating a chef’s table for a year now. To him, the chef’s table is also an opportunity to change diners’ perceptions of Thai food. By selecting the finest ingredients, and being on hand to share the stories about their origins, Vichit can justify his restaurant’s higher price tag. He knows how a particular fish was caught, he can share stories about his own rice field, and suddenly ordinary dishes like khao tom (rice porridge) become special. Vichit says he encourages the diners’ curiosity: “Even those who don’t ask questions, I try to educate them anyway. They need to know the unique charm of our food. Thai food doesn’t have to be looked down upon as street food anymore.”

Even if you’re not an expert foodie, chef’s tables have the added value of being entertaining, and bring a sense of occasion. And for celebrity chef Ian Kittichai, theatrics are half the fun: “We once threw nitrogen on the diners’ table. It’s not dangerous but it definitely caused some excitement.”

Le Beaulieu

B2,500-B3,000 (additional B1,500 for wine pairing) per person. For 4-10 guests and booking in advance is strongly recommended.
Athenee Tower, 63 Wireless Rd., 02-168-8220. www.le-beaulieu.com

Smith

Prices start from B3,800 for 7 courses, per person. For 7-15 guests and booking in advance is recommended.
Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-261-0515-6. www.smith-restaurant.com

Sala Rim Naam

B3,900 for 6-course and B4,900 for 8 courses, per person. For 4-7 guests and one-day advanced reservation is required.
48 Oriental Ave., 02-659-9000

Water Library

B6,600 for 12 courses (food only), per person. Service starts at 7:30pm.