Tian Sin
Phiphat Soi 2, 086-984-1621. Open Mon-Fri 6:30am-1:30pm
Located down an alley on Phiphat 2, this khao kaeng shop is hard to find, but we’re glad the masses are unaware. Run by two adorable sisters, Tian Sin does all-vegetarian curries and larb involving tofu, mushrooms and lots of vegetables (there’s little over-processed fake meat). It costs B30-40, depending on how many sides you get with your rice. They also do daily specials, such as kwuay teaw lord on Mondays and kanom jeen on Wednesdays. Our tip: show up at noon as they tend to start running out by 1pm.
Anotai
976/17 Soi Rama 9, Rim Klong Sam Sen Rd., 02-641-5366/-70. MRT Phra Ram 9
It’s easy to dismiss Anotai from the rather bland exterior. Step inside, though, and you’ll find a zen vibe and Cordon Bleu-trained cooking by the eponymous chef. The menu has several Thai dishes, like larb taohuu, along with organic salads and textbook pastas. They also do texturized vegetable proteins here—so fake meat but the delicious kind, including pla khem. We’re also huge fans of the deep-fried Japanese tofu with tangy lemongrass dressing. Be sure to save room for the homemade desserts, like chocolate cake with sherry sauce.
Khun Churn
G/F, Bangkok Mediplex Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 42, 02-713-6599
A far cry location-wise from the original Khun Churn’s hip house and sprawling front yard, but the food may just transport you back to Chiang Mai. Besides, the atmosphere is quite classy, yet casual, with cushioned banquettes and intricate bamboo lanterns adorning the ceiling. The menu is down-to-earth and uses rare, indigenous veggies as the core ingredients. Try the crunchy kwuay teaw lord and their handful of Northern recipes.
Tham Na
175 Samsen Rd. (between soi 3 and 5), 02-282-4979
Tham Na is a family-owned operation serving delicious food in a hip, cute dining room with rustic brick walls flanked by the kitchen on one side. The menu doesn’t mess with fake meats, but performs miracles with tofu and mushrooms and throws in some inventive twists—the pomelo salad served with crispy wonton sheets and, our personal favorite, simple stir-fried lotus root slices with olive oil and herbs. The owners are warm and friendly and happy to talk to you about the dishes.
May Kaidee
Between Sukhumvit soi 33 and 35, 02-662-0372. BTS Phrom Phong
This famed joint has been providing backpackers reliable meat-free meals for almost two decades. But don’t be put off if you’re the only Thais here. The menu offers over 50 vegetarian dishes along with herbal teas and smoothies. The food is MSG-free, the fish sauce replaced by soy sauce and the dishes are heavy on the coconut milk and tamarind. Go for the unpretentious Thai stuff, like the fried seaweed with peanut dip, and the banana flower salad.
Govinda
6/5 Sukhumvit Soi 22, 02-663-4970.
A long-standing old-school Italian restaurant that reminds us of where we ate with our parents when we were in school. The dining room is cozy, and the menu is so extensive, it may take you a minute to realize that you’re actually at an all-vegetarian restaurant. They do it through inventiveness and lots of cheese—especially in their risotto and gnocchi. (There’s also a small selection of soy-meat entrees, but we say skip them.) Go for their gnocchi with pumpkin and asparagus, or try their homemade egg-free pasta selection.
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