ISAO
Spicy Tuna Sandwich, B300
The roll: We adore the repackaging of this American college student favorite, the spicy tuna roll, into a sandwich cut into little managable triangles. A thick layer of tuna, salmon and spicy sauce is perfectly proportionate to the two layers of rice and seaweed, and the slight bite of the scallion and pop of the ebiko jazzes up a familiar, comforting roll.
The place: Narrow and cozy with only a handful of tables and a sushi bar, ISAO has the vibe of a well-kept secret, even though it’s often packed. Trained by a sushi master in Chicago, the owner offers rolls with an American, indulgent slant.
Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-258-0645. Open Mon-Fri 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm; Sat-Sun 11am-10pm
In the Mood for Love
Sweet 16, B400
The roll: Even though this massive roll is somewhat against Chef Run’s philosophy of simplicity, it’s hard to complain when the initial tartness of strawberry mixes with the cold fattiness of tuna, before giving way to the sweetness of the eel and ending with the crunch and grease of the tempura flakes in the centre of the roll. It’s easy to see why the Sweet 16 is their bestseller.
The place: The decor is inspired by the Wong Kar-wai film of the same name and is reminiscent of 1960s Hong Kong, with lots of floral prints and hanging wicker lamps. Perfect for an ambient date.
9/9 Sukhumvit Soi 36, 02-661-5076. Open Tue-Sun 5pm-12:30am
Rainbow Roll Sushi
Maguro Roll, B350
The roll: The simple business of American-style, inside-out maki rolls is elevated by some wonderful surprises in this hearty and textured maguro roll which contains not just shrimp, but also tempura flakes, jalapeno and mayonnaise and comes topped with generous slices of tuna. The secret here is slices of eggplant in the centre, which, while not too seasoned, give a lot of body to the roll overall, making it hearty and toothsome.
The place: Even though it’s in the middle of K.Village, the place retains its own integrity, with high ceilings and large windows overlooking the street. The high, marble-top table backed by tall shelves of shochu and sake bottles is good for large parties.
2/F, K.Village, Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-661-5052. Open daily 11am-2pm, 7pm-midnight
KOI
Dragon Roll, B580
The roll: An original take on the decadent and comforting dragon roll, the version at KOI, while using the usual crab, eel, shrimp tempura and avocado, does away with the nori seaweed and instead uses a tofu paper wrap. The result is a less salty, sweeter roll that is also less chewy and very crunchy from the blanket of tempura flakes. We also like the drizzle of Sriracha sauce that gives a spicy edge. Chef Grimes suggests not dipping this roll in soy sauce as it already comes topped with a sweet, eel sauce. And if B580 seems kind of steep, know that it comes with a little side of a refreshing seaweed salad.
The place: A dimly-lit lounge with a black and red motif, being at KOI, in the ambient lounge, makes you feel a bit like an LA celebrity. The casual-chic eatery does American-style Japanese sushi, sashimi and some inventive raw fish entrees.
26 Sukhumvit Soi 20, 02-258-1590. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-midnight
Rakuza
A la Diavola, B320
The roll: The diavola mixes things up by having largely cooked elements. The maki roll comes topped with an oven-baked, chunky concoction of spicy sauce, diced avocado, salmon and assorted seafood. The exciting part is how the chef balances this combination and rescues the overall experience from soggy goop by rolling crunchy pieces of baby corn and bell pepper into the rice and seaweed. The sweetness goes nicely with the spiciness.
The place: Tucked behind the facade of Grass, Rakuza is a two-story semi-casual eatery that imports high-quality fish from the Tsukiji fish market in Tokyo. They have a Japanese and Western tapas list, as well as some fusion meat entres.
G/F, Grass, 264/1 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Soi Thong Lo), 02-714-9897. Open Tue-Sun noon-2pm, 6pm-1am
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